Wave run-up and overtopping on smooth and rough slopes of coastal structures     

N. J. Shankar  M. P. R. Jayaratne 《Ocean Engineering》2003,30(2):221-238

A series of hydraulic model tests has been carried out in a glass wave flume to investigate the influences of wave height, wave period, wave steepness, surf similarity parameter, roughness, layer thickness and porosity on wave run-up and overtopping of 1:2 sloped impermeable and permeable breakwaters fronted by a 1:10 gentle, smooth beach slope. The analysis of results involves the correlation between the overtopping energy transfer with the relative wall height and the relationship between wave run-up and overtopping rate. Further, measured wave run-up and overtopping rates are compared with the results given in the Shore Protection Manual (1984), Automated Coastal Engineering System (1992)and results of other investigators.  相似文献   

Dynamic properties of green water event in the overtopping of extreme waves on a fixed dock     

Nobuhito Mori  Daniel T. Cox 《Ocean Engineering》2003,30(16):2021-2052

A statistical model is developed to predict wave overtopping volume and rate of extreme waves on a fixed deck. The probability density function for the volume and rate of overtopping water are formulated based on the truncated Weibull distribution with the assumption of local sinusoidal profile for small amplitude waves. Sensitivity to the wave nonlinearity parameter and deck clearance is discussed. The statistical model is compared to laboratory data of the instantaneous free surface elevation measured in front of a fixed deck, and overtopping volume and overtopping rate measured at the leading edge of the deck. The statistical theory compared well with the measured exceedance probability seaward of the deck. The model prediction of the exceedance probability of deck overtopping gave qualitatively good agreement for large overtopping values.  相似文献   

黄河三角洲造陆速率对夏季风强度变化和人类活动的响应     

许炯心 《海洋学报》2007,29(5):88-94

以夏季风强度指数和年均气温作为反映气候变化的指数,以人类净引水量和流域水土保持面积作为反映人类活动变化的指标,并以黄河流域为例,研究了三角洲造陆对气候变化和人类活动的响应.研究表明,夏季风强度指数的变化可分为三个阶段:(1)在1951~1963年夏季风强度指数呈持续增强的变化趋势;(2)在1963~1965年夏季风强度指数呈突变式减弱;(3)在1966~2000年夏季风强度指数保持在较低的水平上,且呈缓慢减弱的趋势.年降水量变化与夏季风强度指数有同步关系.从1950到1970年的年均温度在波动中略呈降低趋势,然而从1970年开始年均温度在波动中具有持续上升的趋势.气候变化会导致入海泥沙通量的变化,并可能进一步导致三角洲造陆速率的变化.黄河三角洲造陆速率、入海泥沙通量在1952~1964年均呈增大的趋势,1964年后则呈减小的趋势,在总体上与夏季风强度指数的变化趋势相同.除了气候变化以外,流域水土保持和引水对三角洲造陆也有影响.多元回归分析表明,三角洲造陆速率随夏季风强度指数的减弱而减小,随年气温的升高而减小,随梯田林草面积的增加而减小,随年净引水量的增加而减小,同时还表明,夏季风强度指数、年均气温、水土保持措施面积和人类净引水量对三角洲造陆速率变化的贡献率分别为34.94%,3.80%,53.82%和7.44%.表示气候变化的两个变量的贡献率之和为38.7%,说明气候变化对黄河三角洲造陆过程的影响是不容忽视的.  相似文献   

斜带髭鲷幼鱼生长和生态转换效率的研究     

刘丽华  杨圣云  冯洁娉  陈明茹 《台湾海峡》2005,24(1):109-114

在实验室内, 22. 5±0. 5℃条件下以去头去骨去鳞片去皮的金色小沙丁鱼的纯肉糜为饵料饲养斜带髭鲷幼鱼,测定体重范围在 4. 6~6. 5g的斜带髭鲷的体重、体长的生长曲线及其生态转换效率和特定生长率.实验结果表明,斜带髭鲷的体重、体长在实验期间直线增长,体重、体长的生长曲线分别为Wt(w.w.湿重,下同 ) =0. 391 7t 5. 766 2(R=0. 999 6)和Lt=0. 105t 6. 265(R=0. 989 9).用胃含物法测定斜带髭鲷的胃排空率、日摄食量、日生长量、生态转换效率和特定生长率.实验得到斜带髭鲷消化道的瞬时排空率Rt= 1. 23 4×10-3 (m/m) /h,日摄食量Cd= 1. 342 9g(w.w. ),生态转换效率Eg=29. 50% ±2. 77% [m/m(w.w. ) ],特定生长率SGR=4. 71%±0. 69% [m/m(w.w. ) ].  相似文献   

太平洋海域海平面变化的灰色系统分析   总被引：3，自引：1，他引：3  

左军成  陈宗镛  戚建华 《中国海洋大学学报(自然科学版)》1997,(2)

应用灰色系统理论，对太平洋海域４８个长期验潮站的月均海平面分别建立了ＧＭ（１，１）模型。ＧＭ（１，１）模型能较好地反映太平洋海域的海平面变化的趋势，它除了能给出连续的海平面变化速率外，同时能方便地给出海平面变化的加速率。模拟结果表明，在太平洋地壳均衡假设下，太平洋海域的月均海平面以平均速率０．１７ｃｍ／ａ上升。在太平洋海域所取的４８个长期验潮站中，有４０个站在加速上升，全部站的平均加速度为０．０００２９ｃｍ／ａ２。且加速率逐渐增大。当然这些加速率都很小，但作为一种普遍性的趋势，这已足以说明：太平洋海域的海平面在加速上升  相似文献   

Observation of clouds and solar radiation over the Pacific Ocean as relation to global climate     

Farn Parungo  Clarence Nagamoto  Cecilia M. I. R. Girz  Jeff Torgerson  Zhou Mingyu 《海洋学报(英文版)》1995,14(2):201-207

ＯｂｓｅｒｖａｔｉｏｎｏｆｃｌｏｕｄｓａｎｄｓｏｌａｒｒａｄｉａｔｉｏｎｏｖｅｒｔｈｅＰａｃｉｆｉｃＯｃｅａｎａｓｒｅｌａｔｉｏｎｔｏｇｌｏｂａｌｃｌｉｍａｔｅ￥ＦａｒｎＰａｒｕｎｇｏ；ＣｌａｒｅｎｃｅＮａｇａｍｏｔｏ；ＣｅｃｉｌｉａＭ．Ｉ．Ｒ．Ｇｉ...  相似文献   

THE CLIMATIC CHANGES AND THE COASTAL ENVIRONMENT     

F. Marabini Qing YunshanA. Veggiani Gang Shuxi 《海洋地质与第四纪地质》1992,(1)

Although the Yellow River Delta and Bohai Sea coastal zone are long distance and different environment with Po River Delta and Adriatic Sea coastal zone, the comparison of data of two different areas and the evolution trend of two areas are quite similar. The influence of natural climatic changes on the evolution of the deltas and coastal zones exists both in ancient and modern times. The cold/wet period occurred in 1300—1400A. D. and 1550 —1850 A.D. within this"large scale" climatie cycle, and shorter periods (10— 35 years) of cold rainy weather alternated with warm/dry period are known as "Bruckner cycles" which have influence on the evolution of the deltas and coastal zones.  相似文献   

Towards the identification of warning criteria: Analysis of a ship accident database   总被引：3，自引：0，他引：3  

A. Toffoli  J.M. Lefvre  E. Bitner-Gregersen  J. Monbaliu 《Applied Ocean Research》2005,27(6):281-291

  相似文献   

Scattering of Semidiurnal Internal Kelvin Wave at Step Bottom Topography     

Yuji?KawamuraEmail author  Yujiro?Kitade  Masaji?Matsuyama 《Journal of Oceanography》2005,61(1):59-68

A three-dimensional, multi-level model was used to study the energy dissipation of semidiurnal internal Kelvin waves due to their interaction with bottom topography. A simplified topography consisting of a channel with an additional shallow bay was used to clarify the wave’s scattering process. When the first mode semidiurnal internal wave given at an open boundary arrives at the bay mouth, higher-mode internal waves are generated at a step bottom of the bay mouth. As a result, the energy of the first mode internal Kelvin wave is effectively decayed. The decay rate of the internal Kelvin wave depends on both the width and length of the additional bay. The maximum decay rate was found when a resonance condition occurs the bay, that is, the bay length is equal to a quarter of wave length of the first mode internal wave on the shallow region. The decay rate in the wide bay cases is higher than that in a narrow case, due to a contribution from the scattering due to the Poincare wave that emanates from the corners of the bay head. The decay rate with the additional bay is 1.1–1.8 times that of the case without the additional bay. The decay rate due to the scattering process is found to be of the same order as that of the internal and bottom friction.  相似文献   

厦门港浮游植物对磷酸盐吸收速率的研究   总被引：12，自引：1，他引：12  

洪华生  戴民汉  黄邦钦  李文权 《海洋与湖沼》1994,25(1):54-59

用无载体32P同位素示踪测定海水中浮游植物和细菌吸收磷酸盐速率的方法，对厦门港浮游植物和细菌进行了研究。结果表明，厦门港海水中吸收磷酸盐的主体是浮游植物（几乎占100％），平均吸收速率为4．28×10－5μmol／（L·s），并且存在着晚秋＜冬＜初春的季节变化，培养实验的结果表明吸收速率的季节变化主要是由于种类更替和温度效应所致。  相似文献