Modelling of periodic wave transformation in the inner surf zone     

P. Bonneton   《Ocean Engineering》2007,34(10):1459-1471

In this paper, we analyse the ability of the nonlinear shallow-water (NSW) equations to predict wave distortion and energy dissipation of periodic broken waves in the inner surf zone. This analysis is based on the weak-solution theory for conservative equations. We derive a new one-way model, which applies to the transformation of non-reflective periodic broken waves on gently sloping beaches. This model can be useful to develop breaking-wave parameterizations (in particular broken-wave celerity expression) in both time-averaged wave models and time-dependent Boussinesq-type models. We also derive a new wave set-up equation which provides a simple and explicit relation between wave set-up and energy dissipation. Finally, we compare numerical simulations of both, the NSW model and the simplified one-way model, with spilling wave breaking experiments and we find a good agreement.  相似文献   

黄河三角洲造陆速率对夏季风强度变化和人类活动的响应     

许炯心 《海洋学报》2007,29(5):88-94

以夏季风强度指数和年均气温作为反映气候变化的指数,以人类净引水量和流域水土保持面积作为反映人类活动变化的指标,并以黄河流域为例,研究了三角洲造陆对气候变化和人类活动的响应.研究表明,夏季风强度指数的变化可分为三个阶段:(1)在1951~1963年夏季风强度指数呈持续增强的变化趋势;(2)在1963~1965年夏季风强度指数呈突变式减弱;(3)在1966~2000年夏季风强度指数保持在较低的水平上,且呈缓慢减弱的趋势.年降水量变化与夏季风强度指数有同步关系.从1950到1970年的年均温度在波动中略呈降低趋势,然而从1970年开始年均温度在波动中具有持续上升的趋势.气候变化会导致入海泥沙通量的变化,并可能进一步导致三角洲造陆速率的变化.黄河三角洲造陆速率、入海泥沙通量在1952~1964年均呈增大的趋势,1964年后则呈减小的趋势,在总体上与夏季风强度指数的变化趋势相同.除了气候变化以外,流域水土保持和引水对三角洲造陆也有影响.多元回归分析表明,三角洲造陆速率随夏季风强度指数的减弱而减小,随年气温的升高而减小,随梯田林草面积的增加而减小,随年净引水量的增加而减小,同时还表明,夏季风强度指数、年均气温、水土保持措施面积和人类净引水量对三角洲造陆速率变化的贡献率分别为34.94%,3.80%,53.82%和7.44%.表示气候变化的两个变量的贡献率之和为38.7%,说明气候变化对黄河三角洲造陆过程的影响是不容忽视的.  相似文献   

First results from the North Iceland experiment     

C. Riedel  A. Tryggvason  B. Brandsdottír  T. Dahm  R. Stéfansson  M. Hensch  R. Böðvarsson  K. S. Vogfjord  S. Jakobsdottír  T. Eken  R. Herber  J. Holmjarn  M. Schnese  M. Thölen  B. Hofmann  B. Sigurdsson  S. Winter 《Marine Geophysical Researches》2006,27(4):267-281

Between June 2004 and September 2004 a temporary seismic network was installed on the northern insular shelf of Iceland and onshore in north Iceland. The seismic setup aimed at resolving the subsurface structure and, thus, the geodynamical transition from Icelandic crust to typical oceanic crust along Kolbeinsey Ridge. The experiment recorded about 1,000 earthquakes. The region encloses the Tjörnes Fracture Zone containing the Husavik–Flatey strike-slip fault and the extensional seismic Grimsey Lineament. Most of the seismicity occurs in swarms offshore. Preliminary results reveal typical mid-ocean crust north of Grimsey and a heterogeneous structure with major velocity anomalies along the seismic lineaments and north–south trending subsurface features. Complementary bathymetric mapping highlight numerous extrusion features along the Grimsey Lineament and Kolbeinsey Ridge. The seismic dataset promises to deliver new insights into the tectonic framework for earthquakes in an extensional transform zone along the global mid-ocean ridge system.  相似文献   

渤海湾沿岸泥炭沼泽形成机制与时空分布   总被引：4，自引：0，他引：4  

李汉鼎  王升忠 《海洋地质与第四纪地质》1995,15(2):11-16

渤海湾沿岸的海陆过渡带，优越的水文地理环境有利于泥炭沼泽的形成与发育。海洋海退导致的海岸线变迁，是控制泥炭沼泽发育时间和空间分布的主导因素。间冰期和冰后期的海面上升期间，自海向陆发育了海侵基底泥炭；中全新世高海面期，在山前扇缘洼地和沟谷有泥炭沼泽发育；晚全新世海面下降期，泥炭沼泽主要发育在沿岸的海湾、泻湖、三角洲汊河间洼地及平原上的河滩、阶地、古河道等地。  相似文献   

Observation of clouds and solar radiation over the Pacific Ocean as relation to global climate     

Farn Parungo  Clarence Nagamoto  Cecilia M. I. R. Girz  Jeff Torgerson  Zhou Mingyu 《海洋学报(英文版)》1995,14(2):201-207

ＯｂｓｅｒｖａｔｉｏｎｏｆｃｌｏｕｄｓａｎｄｓｏｌａｒｒａｄｉａｔｉｏｎｏｖｅｒｔｈｅＰａｃｉｆｉｃＯｃｅａｎａｓｒｅｌａｔｉｏｎｔｏｇｌｏｂａｌｃｌｉｍａｔｅ￥ＦａｒｎＰａｒｕｎｇｏ；ＣｌａｒｅｎｃｅＮａｇａｍｏｔｏ；ＣｅｃｉｌｉａＭ．Ｉ．Ｒ．Ｇｉ...  相似文献   

THE CLIMATIC CHANGES AND THE COASTAL ENVIRONMENT     

F. Marabini Qing YunshanA. Veggiani Gang Shuxi 《海洋地质与第四纪地质》1992,(1)

Although the Yellow River Delta and Bohai Sea coastal zone are long distance and different environment with Po River Delta and Adriatic Sea coastal zone, the comparison of data of two different areas and the evolution trend of two areas are quite similar. The influence of natural climatic changes on the evolution of the deltas and coastal zones exists both in ancient and modern times. The cold/wet period occurred in 1300—1400A. D. and 1550 —1850 A.D. within this"large scale" climatie cycle, and shorter periods (10— 35 years) of cold rainy weather alternated with warm/dry period are known as "Bruckner cycles" which have influence on the evolution of the deltas and coastal zones.  相似文献   

Towards the identification of warning criteria: Analysis of a ship accident database   总被引：3，自引：0，他引：3  

A. Toffoli  J.M. Lefvre  E. Bitner-Gregersen  J. Monbaliu 《Applied Ocean Research》2005,27(6):281-291

  相似文献   

沿海城市海水入侵问题研究   总被引：5，自引：0，他引：5  

丁玲  李碧英  张树深 《海洋技术学报》2003,22(2):79-83

近年来，沿海城市的海水入侵问题逐渐成为人们关心的焦点之一。文章通过资料搜集与整理，对沿海城市的海水入侵状况作了全面描述与分析。系统地总结了海水入侵的若干特点及海水入侵的成因分析与规律，较为详细的分析了海水入侵的基本事实、基本矛盾和各发展阶段的发展原因，在此基础上总结了海水入侵的基本理论。为进一步的研究打下良好的基础。  相似文献   

中国海岸带高分辨率遥感系统技术基础研究   总被引：4，自引：4，他引：4  

杨晓梅  杜云艳  陈秀法 《海洋学报》2003,25(6):61-68

基于海岸带作为经济高度发展的地带,特别是我国常规海岸带调查已不能满足海岸带经济发展和现代化管理的基本要求,着重从大量高分辨率遥感数据的组织和管理、快速准确的空间定位系统、特征级的影像融合以及海岸带特征提取等算法,共同构成海岸带高分辨率遥感数据处理及分析方法作为系统的技术基础,并通过与此相匹配的海岸带遥感分类系统及其综合制图等方法研究,支撑起海岸带遥感资源调查先进的技术构架,为实现我国海岸带现代化管理奠定理论和技术基础.  相似文献   

A modelling study of ecosystem dynamics and nutrient cycling in the Humber plume, UK     

J. I. Allen   《Journal of Sea Research》1997,38(3-4)

The European Regional Seas Ecosystem Model (ERSEM) has been coupled with a two-dimensional depth-averaged transport model of the Humber plume region and run to simulate 1988–1989. Simulations of the spatial and temporal variations in chlorophyll-a, nitrate, phosphate and suspended particulate matter distributions in winter, spring and summer show how the development of the spring bloom and subsequent maintenance of primary production is controlled by the physicochemical environment of the plume zone. Results are also shown for two stations, one characterised by the high nutrient and suspended matter concentrations of the plume and the other by the relatively low nutrient and sediment concentrations of the offshore waters. The modelled net primary production at the plume site was 105 g C m⁻² a⁻¹ and 127 g C m⁻² a⁻¹ offshore. Primary production was controlled by light limitation between October and March and by the availability of nutrients during the rest of the year. The phytoplankton nutrient demand is met by in-situ recycling processes during the summer. The likely effect of increasing and decreasing anthropogenic riverine inputs of nitrate and phosphate upon ecosystem function was also investigated. Modelling experiments indicate that increasing the nitrogen to silicate ratio in freshwater inputs increased the production of non-siliceous phytoplankton in the plume. The results of this model have been used to calculate the annual and quarterly mass balances describing the usage of inorganic nitrogen, phosphate and silicate within the plume zone for the period of the NERC North Sea survey (September 1988 to October 1989). The modelled Humber plume retains 3.9% of the freshwater dissolved inorganic nitrogen, 2.2% of the freshwater phosphate and 1.3% of the freshwater silicate input over the simulated seasonal cycle. The remainder is transported into the southern North Sea in either dissolved or particulate form. The reliability of these results is discussed.  相似文献