Modeling of the eddy viscosity by breaking waves     

ZHANG Shuwen  YUAN Yeli  ZHENG Quan''an 《海洋学报(英文版)》2007,26(6):116-123

Breaking wave induced nearsurface turbulence has important consequences for many physical and biochemical processes including water column and nutrients mixing,heat and gases exchange across air-sea interface.The energy loss from wave breaking and the bubble plume penetration depth are estimated.As a consequence,the vertical distribution of the turbulent kinetic energy(TKE),the TKE dissipation rate and the eddy viscosity induced by wave breaking are also provided.It is indicated that model results are found to be consistent with the observational evidence that most TKE generated by wave breaking is lost within a depth of a few meters near the sea surface.High turbulence level with intensities of eddy viscosity induced by breaking is nearly four orders larger than υwl(=κuwz),the value predicted for the wall layer scaling close to the surface,where uw is the friction velocity in water,κ with 0.4 is the von Kármán constant,and z is the water depth,and the strength of the eddy viscosity depends both on wind speed and sea state,and decays rapidly through the depth.This leads to the conclusion that the breaking wave induced vertical mixing is mainly limited to the near surface layer,well above the classical values expected from the similarity theory.Deeper down,however,the effects of wave breaking on the vertical mixing become less important.  相似文献   

Depth- and current-induced effects on wave propagation into the Altamaha River Estuary, Georgia     

KiRyong Kang  Daniela Di Iorio   《Estuarine, Coastal and Shelf Science》2006,66(3-4):395-408

A study of sea surface wave propagation and its energy deformation was carried out using field observations and numerical experiments over a region spanning the midshelf of the South Atlantic Bight (SAB) to the Altamaha River Estuary, GA. Wave heights on the shelf region correlate with the wind observations and directional observations show that most of the wave energy is incident from the easterly direction. Comparing midshelf and inner shelf wave heights during a time when there was no wind and hence no wave development led to an estimation of wave energy dissipation due to bottom friction with corresponding wave dissipation factor of 0.07 for the gently sloping continental shelf of the SAB. After interacting with the shoaling region of the Altamaha River, the wave energy within the estuary becomes periodic in time showing wave energy during flood to high water phase of the tide and very little wave energy during ebb to low water. This periodic modulation inside the estuary is a direct result of enhanced depth and current-induced wave breaking that occurs at the ebb shoaling region surrounding the Altamaha River mouth at longitude 81.23°W. Modelling results with STWAVE showed that depth-induced wave breaking is more important during the low water phase of the tide than current-induced wave breaking during the ebb phase of the tide. During the flood to high water phase of the tide, wave energy propagates into the estuary. Measurements of the significant wave height within the estuary showed a maximum wave height difference of 0.4 m between the slack high water (SHW) and slack low water (SLW). In this shallow environment these wave–current interactions lead to an apparent bottom roughness that is increased from typical hydraulic roughness values, leading to an enhanced bottom friction coefficient.  相似文献   

Sediment Transport in Rivers and Coastal Waters     

YANG  Shu-qing 《中国海洋工程》2003,17(4):527-540

Following Bagnold's approach, a relationship between sediment transport and energy dissipation is developed. The major assumption made in the study is that the near bed velocity plays a dominant role in the process of sediment transport. A general relationship between energy dissipation and sediment transport is first proposed. Then the equations for total sediment transport are derived by introducing the appropriate expression of energy dissipation rate under different conditions, such as open channel flows, combination of wave and current, as well as longshore sediment transport. Within the flows investigated, the derived relationships are fairly consistent with the available data over a wide range of conditions.  相似文献   

Flow fields in reflected waves at a sloped sea wall     

Gerald Müller   《Ocean Engineering》2007,34(11-12):1786-1789

Wave run-up, and flow visualization experiments were conducted with a 1:2 sloped sea wall model. The visualization experiments gave an overview of flow fields in reflected, non-breaking conditions. Maximum particle velocities were found to be significantly smaller than suggested in the literature. Downrush produced a fast sheet flow, extending down to the toe of the sea wall. This created a ‘reverse’ breaker during the retreat of the initially non-breaking wave, which explains the high-energy dissipation rates for non-breaking waves reported in the literature. Embankments may therefore be exposed to wave impact pressures in areas up to 1.18H₀ below MWL.  相似文献   

桩式离岸堤保滩促淤工程消浪效果试验研究   总被引：9，自引：0，他引：9  

龚崇准  陈美发等 《海洋工程》2001,19(4):72-77

在上海奉贤南北港保滩促淤工程中，采用了一种新型结构型式－桩式离岸堤，并通过物理模式试验进行了桩式离岸堤消浪效果研究。针对离岸堤通常建于近岸水区破波带的特点，重点研究水深，堤高以及堤身结构对波浪衰减的影响，同时对桩式离岸堤堤后水域的波浪底流速 分析探讨。研究结果表明，桩式离岸堤不仅具有良好的消浪效果。而且可在较大范围内改变波态，即由引起水体剧烈紊动的破波转变为浅水推进波，从而有效地改善海滩上的动力条件，促进海滩免受侵蚀，是一种具有广泛应用前景和新型保滩促淤结构。  相似文献   

Mathematical Models for Combined Refraction-Diffraction of Waves on Non-Uniform Current and Depth   总被引：12，自引：2，他引：12  

Hong Guangwen Professor  Research Institute of Coastal  Ocean Engineering  Hohai University  Xikang Road  Nanjing 《中国海洋工程》1996,(4)

Two mathematical models for combined refraction-diffraction of regular and irregular waves on non-uniform current in water of slowly varying topography are presented in this paper. Model I is derived by wave theory and variational principle separately. It has two kinds of expressions including the dissipation term. Model n is based on the energy conservation equation with energy flux through the wave crest lines in orthogonal curvilinear coordinates and the wave kinematic conservation equation. The analysis and comparison and special cases of these two models are also given.  相似文献   

南海西部浮游有孔虫记录的MIS 3期表层海洋环境变化          下载免费PDF全文

杨文瑜  黄宝琦  肖洁  周力平 《第四纪研究》2008,28(3):437-446

对南海西部越南岸外上升流区17954-2站浮游有孔虫属种组合变化、浮游有孔虫氧同位素、AMS14C测年的分析以及浮游有孔虫表层海水温度、温跃层转换函数的研究结果表明:在MIS3期,南海西部表层海水温度大体呈现暖-冷-暖的变化趋势;温跃层深度由浅到深阶段性变化;短时间尺度上温度与温跃层发生幅度较大的快速变化。暖事件（IS）对应于浮游有孔虫暖水种、混合层属种含量的增加,冷水种、温跃层属种含量的减少以及冬夏SST的升高;冷事件则与之相反。表层海水生产力亦大致呈现3个阶段（61～51ka,51～42ka和42～32ka）的变化,在千年尺度的快速气候事件中,暖事件对应浮游有孔虫生产力属种含量降低,冷事件对应升高。此外,在MIS3内部分暖事件（IS6和IS11～13）表现出表层海水温度降低,温跃层深度变浅和表层海水生产力升高的状况,表明该区此时上升流的存在,其形成原因推测是由于东亚夏季风加强的结果。  相似文献   

基于小波变换的单频GPS快速精密定位整周模糊度的解算     

郭秋英  陈启辉 《测绘科学》2008,33(3):41-43

对于GPS短基线,载波相位双差观测量已基本消除了卫星轨道误差、钟差、大气折射误差等系统偏差的影响,主要包含距离观测量信息及随机测量误差,其中测量误差是高频的测量噪声,小波变换可将GPS载波相位双差观测量中的观测噪声(高频部分)分解出来。本文利用Coiflets小波基函数对GPS快速定位的原始载波相位双差观测量进行5层分解,通过重构第5层低频系数获得去除噪声的"干净"的载波相位双差观测量,然后利用"干净"的双差观测量进行最小二乘参数估计,以减小测量噪声对GPS快速定位病态方程解的扰动。计算结果表明该方法能够显著提高GPS快速定位中模糊度浮点解的精度,仅利用几个观测历元的数据就可以准确地固定模糊度。  相似文献   

Passing through resonance: The excitation and dissipation of the lunar free libration in longitude     

Donald H. Eckhardt 《Celestial Mechanics and Dynamical Astronomy》1993,57(1-2):307-324

The acceleration of the mean lunar longitude has a small effect on the periods of most terms in a Fourier expansion of the longitude. There are several planetary perturbation terms that have small amplitudes, but whose periods are close to the resonant period of the lunar libration in longitude. Some of these terms are moving toward resonance, some are moving away from resonance, and the periods of those terms that do not include the Delaunay variables in their arguments are not moving. Because of its acceleration of longitude, the Moon is receding from the Earth, so the magnitude of the restoring torque that the Earth exerts on the rotating Moon is gradually attenuating; thus resonance itself is moving, but at a much slower rate than the periods of the accelerating planetary perturbations. There are five planetary perturbation terms from the ELP-2000 Ephemeris (with amplitudes of 0.00001 or greater) that have passed through resonance in the past two million years. One of them is of special interest because it appears to be the excitation source of a supposed free libration in longitude that has been detected by the lunar laser ranging experiment. The amplitude of the term is only 0.00021 but it could be the source of the 1 amplitude free libration term if the viscoelastic properties of the Moon are similar to those of the Earth.  相似文献   

Multi-level dissipation element analysis of the surface temperature of the South China Sea     

《Dynamics of Atmospheres and Oceans》2021

  相似文献