Ocean Waves: Half-a-Century of Discovery   总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1  

Paul H. LeBlond 《Journal of Oceanography》2002,58(1):3-9

While the nature of most ocean waves has long been known and their basic physics understood since the nineteenth century, intense study of ocean waves during the second half of the twentieth century has taken the subject from the realm of mathematical exercises to that of practical engineering. Modern understanding of the generation, propagation and interactions of ocean waves with each other and with oceanic features has advanced to a quantitative level offering predictive capacity. This paper presents a brief qualitative review of advances in knowledge of sound waves, wind waves, tsunamis, tides, internal waves and long-period vorticity waves. The review is aimed at non-specialists who may benefit from an overview of the current state of the subject and access to a bibliography of general-interest references. This revised version was published online in August 2006 with corrections to the Cover Date.  相似文献   

南麂海域台风影响过程中的波浪特征     

黄树生 《海洋湖沼通报》1996,(1):1-8

根据１９８３－１９８９年南麂海洋站在台风影响过程中的实测风和浪资料，分析了该海域的波浪特征。结果表明，这个海域的台风波浪通常是混合浪，在台风影响过程中出现的最大值波高，既有较大波陡的风浪，也有波陡较小的清浪；各向波高的均值变化不大，各向最大波高却有较大幅度的差距；本区的台风浪以４级波高占优，风浪以ＮＮＥ向、涌浪以Ｅ向为常浪向；波高为４级的风浪和涌浪，其周期分别在４．０－４．９Ｓ和７．０－７．９Ｓ之  相似文献   

环台湾岛海域半日潮波特征的三维模拟   总被引：10，自引：0，他引：10  

沙文钰  吕新刚  陈希  张文静 《海洋学报》2001,23(4):31-40

用1997版POM海洋模式,首次应用于环台湾岛海域的潮波数值研究.得到该海域的半日潮波主要为23°N以南西太平洋传来的胁振潮.影响台湾海峡的半日潮波分别由海峡南北口传入的两支潮波,且北支强于南支.福建沿岸湄州湾-兴化湾为最强潮区,其M₂分潮最大振幅可达240cm.最强潮流区位于澎湖水道,M₂分潮最大潮流达196cm/s.环台湾岛海域潮波潮流水平结构上除海峡北部原有一个圆流点外,还发现另外存在4个新的圆流点.潮流垂直结构上主要为右偏,接近底层处为左偏.  相似文献   

9914号(Dan)台风浪的后报试验研究   总被引：5，自引：2，他引：5  

王彩欣  张占海  王可光 《海洋通报》2003,22(1):9-16

利用WAM第三代海浪模式的第四版本(WAMC4)对40a来造成福建沿海灾害最严重的9914号台风海浪过程进行了后报试验，并与近岸常规观测和卫星高度计有效波高资料进行了比较。与常规观测站的比较结果表明，WAMC4能较好地再现海浪的发展过程。后报结果与TOPEX/POSEIDON和ERS-2卫星观测资料的对比研究表明，风速的后报结果与卫星观测有较好的一致性，但海浪的后报比卫星高度计反演的有效波高整体略偏低。  相似文献   

Numerical modeling of nonlinear water waves over heterogeneous porous beds   总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1  

Eric C. Cruz  Qin Chen   《Ocean Engineering》2007,34(8-9):1303-1321

The transformation of nonlinear water waves over porous beds is studied by applying a numerical model based on Chen's [2006. Fully nonlinear Boussinesq-type equations for waves and currents over porous beds. Journal of Engineering Mechanics, 132:2, 220–230] Boussinesq-type equations for highly nonlinear waves on permeable beds. The numerical model uses a high-order time-marching solution and fourth-order finite-difference schemes for discretization of first-order spatial derivatives to obtain a computational accuracy consistent with the model equations. By forcing the wave celerity and spatial porous-damping rate of the linearized model to match the exact linear theory for horizontal porous bed over a prescribed range of relative depths, the values of the model parameters are optimally determined. Numerical simulations of the damped wave propagation over finite-thickness porous layer demonstrate the accuracy of both the numerical model and governing equations, which have been shown by prior theoretical analyses to be accurate for both nominal and thick porous layers. These simulations also elucidate on the significance of the higher-order porous-damping terms and the influence of the hydraulic parameters. Application of the model to the simulation of the wave field around a laboratory-scale submerged porous mound provides a measure of its capability, as well as useful insight into the scaling of the porous-resistance coefficients. For application to heterogeneous porous beds, the assumption of weak spatial variation of the porous resistance is examined using truncated forms of the governing equations. The results indicate that the complete set of Boussinesq-type equations is applicable to porous beds of nonhomogeneous makeup.  相似文献   

Reflection of waves from the boundary of a random elastic semi-infinite medium     

Rabindra Kumar Bhattacharyya 《Pure and Applied Geophysics》1996,146(3-4):677-688

In this paper the smooth perturbation technique is employed to investigate the problem of reflection of waves incident on the plane boundary of a semi-infinite elastic medium with randomly varying inhomogeneities. Amplitude ratios have been obtained for various types of incident and reflected waves. It has been shown that an incidentSH orSV type of wave gives rise to reflectedSH, P andSV waves, the main components beingSH andP, SV in the respective cases. The reflected amplitudes have been calculated depending upon the randomness of the medium to the square of the small quantity , where measures the deviation of the medium from homogeneity. An incidentP-type wave produces mainly aP component and also a weakSH component to the order of ². The reflected amplitudes obtainable for elastic media are also altered by terms of the same order. The direction of the reflected wave is influenced by randomness in some cases.  相似文献   

Hybrid seismic modeling based on discrete-wave number and finite-difference methods     

Jiří Zahradník  Peter Moczo 《Pure and Applied Geophysics》1996,148(1-2):21-38

Any calculation of seismic wave propagation comprising the seismic source, the travel path, and the receiver site in a single finite-difference (FD) model requires a considerable amount of computer time and memory. Moreover, the methods currently available for including point sources in the 2D FD calculations are far-field approximations only. Therefore we have developed a new hybrid method for treating the seismic wave fields at localized 2D near-surface structures embedded in a 1D background medium, and excited by a point source. The source radiation and propagation in the background model is solved by the discrete-wave number (DW) method, while the propagation in the local 2D structure is calculated by the FD method. The coupling between the two sets of calculations is performed on a rectangular excitation box surrounding the local structure. We show the usefulness of the method in ground-motion studies where both near-field source effects and local site effects are important. Technical problems connected with the inconsistency between the 3D source radiation and the 2D FD calculation are minor for the relatively distant in-plane point explosive sources, but are more serious for the in-plane dislocation sources.  相似文献   

Energy balance of simple elastodynamic sources     

Václav Vavryčuk 《Pure and Applied Geophysics》1994,143(4):563-586

Complete relations are derived for energy and energy flux of elastic waves generated by an isotropic and double-couple source in a perfectly elastic, homogeneous, isotropic, and unbounded medium. In the energy balance of elastodynamic sources near-field waves play an essential role, transforming static energy into wave energy, andvice versa. For explosive and dislocation sources, the sources surface radiates a positive wave energy that is partially distributed to the medium transforming into static energy. For implosive and antidislocation sources, the source surface generates elastic waves, but it does not necessarily imply that it also radiates a positive wave energy. The energy transported by waves can originate in gradual transformation of the static-to-wave energy during propagation of waves through a stressed medium.On leave from Geophysical Institute, Czech Academy of Sciences, Boní II/1401, 41 31, Praha 4 Czech Republic  相似文献   

The role of bathymetry and directional wave conditions on observed crescentic bar dynamics     

Rinse L. de Swart  Francesca Ribas  Gonzalo Simarro  Jorge Guillén  Daniel Calvete 《地球表面变化过程与地形》2021,46(15):3252-3270

Nearshore sandbars are important features in the surf zone of many beaches because they strongly influence the mean circulation and evolving morphology. Due to variations in wave conditions, sandbars can experience cross-shore migration and vary in shape from alongshore uniform (shore-parallel) to alongshore rhythmic (crescentic). Sandbar dynamics have been studied extensively, but existing observational studies usually do not quantify the processes leading to crescentic bar formation and straightening. This study analyses the dynamics of crescentic bar events at the fetch-limited beach of Castelldefels (northwestern Mediterranean Sea, Spain) using 7.5 years of hourly time-exposure video images and detailed wave conditions. The results show that, despite the generally calm wave conditions, the sandbars were very dynamic in the cross-shore and longshore directions. They often migrated rapidly offshore during storms (up to 70 m in one day) and more slowly onshore during post-storm conditions. Crescentic bars were often present at the study site (48% of the time), but only when the sandbar was at least 10 m from the shoreline. They displayed a large variability in wavelengths (100–700 m), alongshore migration speeds (0–50 m/day) and cross-shore amplitudes (5–20 m). Wavelengths increased for larger bar–shoreline distances and the alongshore migration speeds were strongly correlated with the alongshore component of the radiation stresses. Crescentic patterns typically developed during low–medium energetic waves with limited obliquity ( $\theta \lesssim 20$° at 10 m depth), while bar straightening occurred during medium–high energetic waves with strong oblique angles of incidence ( $\theta \gtrsim 15$°). Overall, this study provides further proof for the important role of wave direction in crescentic bar dynamics and highlights the strong dependence of crescentic bar development on the initial bathymetric configuration.  相似文献   

Scattering of elastic waves by a fracture zone containing randomly distributed cracks     

Jun Kawahara  Teruo Yamashita 《Pure and Applied Geophysics》1992,139(1):121-144

We theoretically study the scattering ofP, SV andSH waves by a zonal distribution of cracks, which simulates a fault fracture zone. An investigation is conducted how the geometrical properties of the crack distribution and the frictional characteristics of the crack surface are reflected in the attenuation and dispersion of incident waves, as well as in the amplitudes of the transmitted and reflected waves from the zone. If the crack distribution within the fault zone changes temporally during the preparation process of the expected earthquake, it will be important for earthquake prediction to monitor it, utilizing the scattering-induced wave phenomena.We consider the two-dimensional problem. Aligned cracks with the same length are assumed to be randomly distributed in a zone with a finite width, on which elastic waves are assumed to be incident. The distribution of cracks is assumed to be homogeneous and sparse. The crack surface is assumed to be stress-free, or to undergo viscous friction; the latter case simulates fluid-filled cracks. The opening displacement of the crack is assumed to be negligibly small. The idea of the mean wave formalism is employed in the analysis, and Foldy's approximation is assumed.When the crack surface is stress-free, it is commonly observed for every wave mode (P, SV andSH) that the attenuation coefficientQ ^–1 peaks aroundka1, the phase velocity is almost independent ofk in the rangeka<1 and it increases monotonically withk in the rangeka>1, wherek is the intrinsicS wavenumber anda is the half length of the crack. The effect of the friction is to shift the peak ofQ ^–1 and the corner of the phase velocity curve to the low wavenumber range. The high wavenumber asymptote ofQ ^–1 is proportional tok ^–1 independently of model parameters and the wave modes. If the seismological observation thatQ ^–1 ofS waves has a peak at around 0.5 Hz in the earth's crust is combined with our results, the upper limit of crack size within the crust is estimated about 4 km. The information regarding the transmitted and reflected waves, such as the high wavenumber limit of the amplitude of the transmitted wave etc., allows estimation of the strength of the friction.  相似文献