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1.
Hisashi Mitsuyasu 《Journal of Oceanography》2002,58(1):109-120
The modern study of ocean surface waves started with a pioneer study by Sverdrup and Munk (1947). More than half a century
has passed since then and the study of ocean surface waves has greatly advanced. The current numerical wave models, supported
by many fundamental studies, enable us to compute ocean surface waves on a global scale with sufficient accuracy for practical
purposes. However, physical process controlling the energy balance of ocean surface waves is still not completely understood.
The present note is a rough sketch of the historical development of the study of ocean surface waves in the latter half of
the twentieth century when the Oceanographic Society of Japan was founded and grew.
This revised version was published online in August 2006 with corrections to the Cover Date. 相似文献
2.
海洋是多尺度强迫-耗散系统,机械能主要在大尺度输入,在小尺度耗散。在大、中尺度运动的能量向小尺度湍流传递过程中,内波扮演着重要角色。内波的生成和破碎可打破海洋动力平衡,而在陆架区,内波（主要是内孤立波）的浅化演变与耗散则是驱动湍流混合的关键过程。通过长期的理论、观测与数值模拟研究,目前已认识到内波浅化过程中主要发生如下演变：波形调制、极性转变、裂变、破碎与耗散。相较于直接发生破碎,浅化演变过程中的裂变及其引发的剪切不稳定和对流不稳定是内孤立波在陆架区的主要耗散机制,显著调制陆架区的跃层混合。从能量串级的角度讲,内孤立波浅化裂变为动力不稳定的高频内波是潮能串级的重要通道。本文简要回顾南海北部陆架区内波的研究历史,并着重总结内波在陆架区演变与耗散机制的研究进展。 相似文献
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越洋海啸会受大洋海脊的引导以俘获波的形式沿其传播上万千米,其携带的巨大能量会严重影响远场地区、威胁海岸地区的安全。本文基于MIKE21-BW模型,分别模拟0°(直海脊)至90°(直角弯曲海脊)不同弯曲角度海脊上俘获波的传播变形过程,并定量比较其能量分配。结果表明,海脊俘获波传至海脊转弯处,少部分能量会泄露出海脊重新以自由波的形式扩散至整个海域;部分能量会被反射回来形成与初始海啸波相反方向的俘获波沿海脊传播,反射的能量会随着海脊弯曲角度的增加而增加;还有一部分能量继续沿着弯曲的海脊向前传播,其随着海脊弯曲的角度增加而减小。 相似文献
7.
Oceanic pycnocline depth retrieval from SAR imagery in the existence of solitary internal waves 总被引：2，自引：1，他引：1
Oceanic pycnocline depth is usually inferred from in situ measurements. It is attempted to estimate the depth remotely. As solitary internal waves occur on oceanic pycnocline and propagate along it, it is possible to retrieve the depth indirectly in virtue of the solitary internal waves. A numerical model is presented for retrieving the pycnocline depth from synthetic aperture radar （SAR） images where the solitary internal waves are visible and when ocean waters are fully stratified. This numerical model is constructed by combining the solitary internal wave model and a two-layer ocean model. It is also assumed that the observed groups of solitary internal wave packets on the SAR imagery are generated by local semidiurnal tides. A case study in the East China Sea shows a good agreement with in situ CTD （conductivity-temperature-depth） data. 相似文献
8.
海气动量通量研究综述 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
海气界面动量通量也称为风应力,是海流和表面海浪的主要驱动力,是海洋从大气获得动量的重要途径。因此,合理可靠的海洋表面风应力的参数化对于海洋、大气和波浪以及气候模式的准确预报都具有非常重要的科学意义和实用价值。对风应力拖曳系数的参数化是风应力参数化的主要内容。近来的观测发现,风应力拖曳系数随着风速的增加出现了先增后减的趋势,同时还与海面的波浪状态以及海流有关。基于观测或理论分析,目前已经得到了一系列的风应力拖曳系数计算方法或公式,有的考虑了海浪的作用,有的没有,但这些方案大都是适合中低风速,在高风速下的适用性还有待检验。本文回顾了目前在海气动量通量观测和参数化方面的研究进展,并建议应增加高风速下风速、海流以及海浪等的同步观测,以进一步完善风应力参数化方案。 相似文献
9.
This paper presents a method to statistically predict the magnitude of impact pressure (including extreme values) produced by deep water waves breaking on a circular cylinder representing a column of an ocean structure. Breaking waves defined here are not those whose tops are blown off by the wind but those whose breaking is associated with steepness. The probability density function of wave period associated with breaking waves is derived for a specified wave spectrum, and then converted to the probability density function of impact pressure. Impacts caused by two different breaking conditions are considered; one is the impact associated with waves breaking in close proximity to the column, the other is an impact caused by waves approaching the column after they have broken. As an example of the application of the present method, numerical computations are carried out for a wave spectrum obtained from measured data in the North Atlantic. 相似文献
10.
Shenn-Yu Chao Ping-Tung Shaw Ming-Kuang Hsu Ying-Jang Yang 《Journal of Oceanography》2006,62(6):811-823
We have investigated the reflection and diffraction of first-mode and second-mode solitary waves by an island, using a three-dimensional
nonhydrostatic numerical model. The model domain consists of a circular island 15 km in diameter in an ocean 300 m deep. We
use prescribed density anomalies in an initially motionless ocean to produce highly energetic internal solitary waves; their
subsequent propagation is subject to island perturbations with and without the effect of earth’s rotation. In addition to
reflected waves, two wave branches pass around the island and reconnect behind it. Island perturbations to the first-mode
and second-mode waves are qualitatively similar, but the latter is more profound because of the longer contact time and, in
the presence of earth’s rotation, the scale compatibility between Rossby radius of the second baroclinic mode and the island
diameter. Without earth’s rotation, reflected and diffracted waves are symmetrical relative to the longitudinal axis passing
through the island center. With earth’s rotation, the current following the wave front veers to the right due to Coriolis
deflection. For a westward propagating incoming wave, the deflection favors northward wave propagation in the region between
the crossover point and the island, shifting the wave reconnection point behind the island northward. It also displaces the
most visible part of the reflected waves to the southeast. In the presence of earth’s rotation, a second-mode incoming wave
produces island-trapped internal Kelvin waves, which are visible after the passage of the wave front. 相似文献
11.
《Marine Policy》2017
The rapid Arctic summer sea ice reduction in the last decade has lead to debates in the maritime industries on the possibility of an increase in cargo transportation in the region. Average sailing times on the North Sea Route along the Siberian Coast have fallen from 20 days in the 1990s to 11 days in 2012–2013, attributed to easing sea ice conditions along the Siberian coast. However, the economic risk of exploiting the Arctic shipping routes is substantial. Here a detailed high-resolution projection of ocean and sea ice to the end of the 21st century forced with the RCP8.5 IPCC emission scenario is used to examine navigability of the Arctic sea routes. In summer, opening of large areas of the Arctic Ocean previously covered by pack ice to the wind and surface waves leads to Arctic pack ice cover evolving into the Marginal Ice Zone. The emerging state of the Arctic Ocean features more fragmented thinner sea ice, stronger winds, ocean currents and waves. By the mid 21st century, summer season sailing times along the route via the North Pole are estimated to be 13–17 days, which could make this route as fast as the North Sea Route. 相似文献
12.
根据麦克斯韦电磁理论,在地磁场中运动的海水将产生感应电磁场。利用一个简单的数学物理模型对感应电磁场在海水内部的分布进行了计算,结果表明海浪产生的电磁场明显依赖于海浪波动的周期及浪高。在100 m的海水深度内,海浪产生的磁感应强度的大小为纳特数量级,而电场强度的大小为几个微伏每米。在同一海水深度处,磁感应强度随海水波动的周期呈现近线性变化,而电场强度的大小有一个极值,该极值随海水深度的增加向长周期方向移动。海浪产生的电磁场是影响海洋电磁探测数据精度的主要噪声之一。 相似文献
13.
Seasonal Variability of Near-Surface Heat Budget of Selected Oceanic Areas in the North Tropical Indian Ocean 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
The results obtained from an Ocean General Circulation Model (OGCM), the Modular Ocean Model 2.2, forced with the National
Center for Environmental Prediction/National Center for Atmospheric Research reanalysis data, and observational data have
been utilized to document the climatological seasonal cycle of the upper ocean response in the Tropical Indian Ocean. We address
the various roles played by the net surface heat flux and the local and remote ocean dynamics for the seasonal variation of
near-surface heat budget in the Tropical Indian Ocean. The investigation is based in seven selected boxes in the Arabian Sea,
Bay of Bengal and the Equatorial Indian Ocean. The changes of basin-wide heat budget of ocean process in the Arabian Sea and
the Western Equatorial Indian Ocean show an annual cycle, whereas those in the Bay of Bengal and the Eastern Equatorial Indian
Ocean show a semi-annual cycle. The time tendency of heat budget in the Arabian Sea depends on both the net surface heat flux
and ocean dynamics while on the other hand, that in the Bay of Bengal depends mainly on the net surface flux. However, it
has been found that the changes of heat budget are very different between western and eastern regional sea areas in the Arabian
Sea and the Bay of Bengal, respectively. This difference depends on seasonal variations of the different local wind forcing
and the different ocean dynamics associated with ocean eddies and Kelvin and Rossby waves in each regional sea areas. We also
discuss the comparison and the connection for the seasonal variation of near-surface heat budget among their regional sea
areas.
This revised version was published online in July 2006 with corrections to the Cover Date. 相似文献
14.
三维极限波的产生方法及特性 总被引：11，自引：2，他引：9
极限破碎波浪是造成海洋结构物破坏的主要因素之一,对极限波浪的产生方法和特性进行研究具有重要的工程意义.利用长波传播快、短波传播慢的原理,从理论上给出了产生三维极限波的方法,利用基于Boussinesq方程的数值模拟对该方法进行了验证,同时研究了中心频率、频率宽度和频谱形式等对极限波浪特性的影响,为该方法的进一步应用提出了建议. 相似文献
15.
The turbulent motions responsible for ocean mixing occur on scales much smaller than those resolved in numerical simulations
of oceanic flows. Great progress has been made in understanding the sources of energy for mixing, the mechanisms, and the
rates. On the other hand, we still do not have adequate answers to first order questions such as the extent to which the thermohaline
circulation of the ocean, and hence the earth's climate, is sensitive to the present mixing rates in the ocean interior. Internal
waves, generated by either wind or flow over topography, appear to be the principle cause of mixing. Mean and eddy flows over
topography generate internal lee waves, while tidal flows over topography generate internal tides. The relative importance
of these different internal wave sources is unknown. There are also great uncertainties about the spatial and temporal variation
of mixing. Calculations of internal tide generation are becoming increasingly robust, but we do not know enough about the
subsequent behavior of internal tides and their eventual breakdown into turbulence. It does seem, however, that most internal
tide energy flux is radiated away from generation sites as low modes that propagate over basin scales. The mechanisms of wave-wave
interaction and topographic scattering both act to transfer wave energy from low modes to smaller dissipative scales.
This revised version was published online in August 2006 with corrections to the Cover Date. 相似文献
16.
双曲余弦海脊上海啸俘获波的解析与数值研究 总被引：4，自引：3，他引：1
海啸能被大洋海脊引导以俘获波的形式沿其传播上万千米，且因其特殊的运动方式，携带巨大能量影响远场地区的港口，严重威胁海岸安全。本文首先基于线性浅水方程，推导了双曲余弦平方海脊上俘获波的波面解，其为μ阶ν次的连带勒让德函数的第一类解和第二类解的组合。进一步推导出其对应的频散关系，其中对于确定的频率ω，存在无穷多个波数ky与之对应。采用MIKE21-BW模型，模拟了产生于海脊脊顶处的海啸在理想双曲余弦平方海脊上的传播变形过程。结果表明，小部分能量以自由先驱波进行传播，海啸波的波能大部分被海脊俘获。海脊俘获波沿着海脊方向为行进波，随着海啸波传播时间的增加，波浪在沿着海脊方向的延展范围也逐渐增大，波高逐渐减小、波的个数逐渐增加。俘获波能量主要由不同频率以相同速度传播的具有孤立波特性的波浪成分和能量主要集中在特定频率范围内的波浪成分组成。 相似文献
17.
利用一个两层半的热带海洋模式,采用数值实验的方法研究了热带海洋对于初始海洋混合层深度异常和大气季节内时间尺度热力强迫激发产生的Ｒｏｓｓｂｙ波和Ｋｅｌｖｉｎ波。研究表明,初始海洋混合层深度异常和大气热力强迫,可以在两层半热带海洋模式中激发产生东向传播具有Ｋｅｌｖｉｎ波性质的波动和具有Ｒｏｓｓｂｙ波性质的波动。热力强迫激发产生海洋Ｒｏｓｓｂｙ波和Ｋｅｌｖｉｎ波所需时间长于初始海洋混合层深度异常和大气季节内动力强迫激发产生两波所需时间,与大气季节内动力强迫激发的Ｒｏｓｓｂｙ波相比,初始深度异常与大气热力强迫激发产生Ｒｏｓｓｂｙ波具有不同的热力性质。 相似文献
18.
The effects of Coriolis force on long waves have been discussed based on gravity waves propagating in an unbounded ocean, channel and basin. In case of ocean, results show that the Coriolis effect will be significant and negligible, when the wave period is comparable to 2π/f and much shorter, respectively. Results also show in a channel, the wave amplitude and water particle velocity decrease exponentially in the positive y direction in the northern hemisphere (where f is positive). Moreover, in a basin, the Cotidal lines have been found as curves and rotate counterclockwise around the origin. 相似文献
19.
海洋内波在海洋活动中扮演重要角色。海洋内波研究对我国海洋科学的理论研究、海洋资源的保护、开发和利用以及海洋军事等方面均具有重要意义。为了及时发现海洋内波的发生地点以及对海洋内波参数进行定量分析, 本研究基于合成孔径雷达(synthetic aperture radar, SAR)影像中内波明暗条纹的边界特性, 提出了一种集成的海洋内波检测算法: 主要运用列分离邻域处理和Canny算子边缘检测算法对条纹进行检测, 并利用海洋内波的轮廓长度、面积比值及传播方向三个特征对条纹进行筛选, 并将该算法应用于南海发生的多起海洋内波, 以验证算法的鲁棒性和适用性。研究结果表明, 该算法能够较好地识别出海洋内波的明暗条纹, 不仅能够除去非内波条纹的轮廓, 而且能够去除一些细小且不明显的内波条纹轮廓。利用余弦函数逐像素地对识别后的条纹进行拟合, 然后根据拟合结果找出明暗条纹所在位置以及相邻明暗条纹之间的间距, 从而判定出内波发生的位置。 相似文献