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1.
Ocean Waves: Half-a-Century of Discovery 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
Paul H. LeBlond 《Journal of Oceanography》2002,58(1):3-9
While the nature of most ocean waves has long been known and their basic physics understood since the nineteenth century,
intense study of ocean waves during the second half of the twentieth century has taken the subject from the realm of mathematical
exercises to that of practical engineering. Modern understanding of the generation, propagation and interactions of ocean
waves with each other and with oceanic features has advanced to a quantitative level offering predictive capacity. This paper
presents a brief qualitative review of advances in knowledge of sound waves, wind waves, tsunamis, tides, internal waves and
long-period vorticity waves. The review is aimed at non-specialists who may benefit from an overview of the current state
of the subject and access to a bibliography of general-interest references.
This revised version was published online in August 2006 with corrections to the Cover Date. 相似文献
2.
The stochastic Lagrange wave model is a realistic alternative to the Gaussian linear wave model, which has been successfully used in ocean engineering for more than half a century. This paper presents exact slope distributions and other characteristic distributions at level crossings for symmetric and asymmetric Lagrange space and time waves. These distributions are given as expectations in a multivariate normal distribution, and they have to be evaluated by simulation or numerical integration. Interesting characteristic variables are: slopes obtained by asynchronous sampling in space or time, slopes in space or time, and horizontal particle velocity, when waves are observed when the water level crosses a predetermined level. 相似文献
3.
A process of synthetic aperture radar imaging of ocean surface waves is considered on the basis of the two-scale model of microwave scattering by a disturbed sea surface. Analytical expressions are obtained to relate characteristics of a large-scale wave image, averaged over an ensemble of realizations of the small-scale ripple, with the wave, radar, and viewing scheme as parameters. It is shown that the wave image would be defocused as an image of a target moving in the along-track direction with a speed equal to a half of the wave phase speed projection on the line of flight. The defocusing magnitude was measured experimentally for the ocean swells images, obtained with an airborneS -band radar, and the results are found to be in satisfactory agreement with the model prediction. 相似文献
4.
海浪破碎对海洋上混合层中湍能量收支的影响 总被引：2，自引：1，他引：2
海浪破碎产生一向下输入的湍动能通量,在近海表处形成一湍流生成明显增加的次层,加强了海洋上混合层中的湍流垂向混合。为了研究海浪破碎对混合层中湍能量收支的影响,文中分析了海浪破碎对海洋上混合层中湍流生成的影响机制,采用垂向一维湍封闭混合模式,通过改变湍动能方程的上边界条件,引入了海浪破碎产生的湍动能通量,并分别对不同风速下海浪破碎的影响进行了数值研究,分析了混合层中湍能量收支的变化。当考虑海浪破碎影响时,近海表次层中的垂直扩散项和耗散项都有显著的增加,该次层中被耗散的湍动能占整个混合层中耗散的总的湍能量的92.0%,比无海浪破碎影响的结果增加了近1倍;由于平均流场切变减小,混合层中的湍流剪切生成减小了3.5%,形成一种存在于湍动能的耗散和垂直扩散之间的局部平衡关系。在该次层以下,局部平衡关系与壁层定律的结论一致,即湍动能的剪切生成与耗散相平衡。研究结果表明,海浪破碎在海表产生的湍动能通量影响了海洋上混合层中的各项湍能量收支间的局部平衡关系。 相似文献
5.
海浪不仅决定着海洋表面的粗糙度,由热带气旋引起的海浪,还通过其发展演化控制着大部分的海气之间的动量和能量传递。本文采用热带气旋观测数据IBTrACS和海浪模式WW III的模拟结果探究了热带气旋下海浪对大气向海洋输入的动量和能量的影响。结果发现,近30 a热带气旋的强度约每10 a增加 1 m/s,但移速没有明显变化。热带气旋的强度越大,从大气输入到海浪和从海浪输入到海流中的动量之差和能量之差也越大。由于热带气旋的风场和海浪场都有较强的不对称性,海气动量差和能量差也表现出非均匀分布:动量差较大的区域在热带气旋移动方向的后方,能量差的最大值则分布在右后象限,且二者均为左前方比较小。逆波龄与动量差和能量差呈高度正相关,相关系数约为0.95,说明波越年轻吸收的动量和能量越多。气旋移速越快逆波龄越大,且热带气旋移动速度与动量差和能量差呈正相关,相关系数在0.8以上。因此,海浪影响着大气向海洋输入的动量和能量的分布和大小,在以后关于海洋边界动力学和热力学的研究中,考虑海浪的演化可能会使结果更加准确。 相似文献
6.
The role of surface waves in the ocean mixed layer 总被引：7，自引：6，他引：1
Previously, most ocean circulation models have overlooked the role of the surface waves. As a result, these models have produced insufficient vertical mixing, with an under - prediction of the ,nixing layer （ML） depth and an over - prediction of the sea surface temperature （SST）, particularly during the summer season. As the ocean surface layer determines the lower boundary conditions of the atmosphere, this deficiency has severely limited the performance of the coupled ocean - atmospheric models and hence the climate studies. To overcome this shortcoming, a new parameterization for the wave effects in the ML model that will correct this systematic error of insufficient mixing. The new scheme has enabled the mixing layer to deepen, the surface excessive heating to be corrected, and an excellent agreement with observed global climatologic data. The study indicates that the surface waves are essential for ML formation, and that they are the primer drivers of the upper ocean dynamics; therefore, they are critical for climate studies. 相似文献
7.
The continuous research and improvement of ocean modelling helps to provide a more sustainable development of coastal and offshore regions. This paper focuses on ocean modelling at the NW Mediterranean using the POLCOMS–WAM model with new developments. The Stokes’ drift effect on currents has been included and the distribution of surface stress between waves and currents has also been considered. The system is evaluated in the NW Mediterranean and an evaluation of different forcing terms is performed. The temperature and salinity distributions control the main patterns of the Mediterranean circulation. Currents are typically small and therefore the modification of waves due to the effect of currents is minimal. However, the wave induced currents, mainly caused by a modified wind drag due to waves, produce changes that become an important source of mass transport. POLCOMS was able to reproduce the main Mediterranean features, its coupling with WAM can be a very useful tool for ocean and wave modelling in the Mediterranean and other shelf seas. 相似文献
8.
有界赤道大洋波包解及其年际年代际变率 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
Linearized shallow water perturbation equations with approximation in an equatorial β plane are used to obtain the analytical solution of wave packet anomalies in the upper bounded equatorial ocean. The main results are as follows. The wave packet is a superposition of eastward travelling Kelvin waves and westward travelling Rossby waves with the slowest speed, and satisfies the boundary conditions of eastern and western coasts, respectively.The decay coefficient of this solution to the north and south sides of the equator is inversely proportional only to the phase velocity of Kelvin waves in the upper water. The oscillation frequency of the wave packet, which is also the natural frequency of the ocean, is proportional to its mode number and the phase velocity of Kelvin waves and is inversely proportional to the length of the equatorial ocean in the east-west direction. The flow anomalies of the wave packet of Mode 1 most of the time appear as zonal flows with the same direction. They reach the maximum at the center of the equatorial ocean and decay rapidly away from the equator, manifested as equatorially trapped waves. The flow anomalies of the wave packet of Mode 2 appear as the zonal flows with the same direction most of the time in half of the ocean, and are always 0 at the center of the entire ocean which indicates stagnation, while decaying away from the equator with the same speed as that of Mode 1. The spatial structure and oscillation period of the wave packet solution of Mode 1 and Mode 2 are consistent with the changing periods of the surface spatial field and time coefficient of the first and second modes of complex empirical orthogonal function(EOF)analysis of flow anomalies in the actual equatorial ocean. This indicates that the solution does exist in the real ocean, and that El Ni?o-Southern Oscillation(ENSO) and Indian Ocean dipole(IOD) are both related to Mode 2.After considering the Indonesian throughflow, we can obtain the length of bounded equatorial ocean by taking the sum of that of the tropical Indian Ocean and the tropical Pacific Ocean, thus this wave packet can also explain the decadal variability(about 20 a) of the equatorial Pacific and Indian Oceans. 相似文献
9.
The effect of the wave-induced mixing on the upper ocean temperature in a climate model 总被引：3，自引：1，他引：2
The significant underestimation of sea surface temperature （SST） and the temperature in the upper ocean is one of common problems in present climate models. The influence of the wave-induced mixing on SST and the temperature in the upper ocean was examined based on a global climate model. The results from the model coupled with wave-induced mixing showed a significant improvement in the simulation of SST and the temperature in the upper ocean compared with those of the original model without wave effects. Although there has still a cold bias, the new simulation is much closer to the climatology, especially in the northern ocean and tropical ocean. This study indicates that some important physical processes in the accurate simulation of the ocean may be ignored in present climate models, and the wave-induced mixing is one of those factors. Thus, the wave-induced mixing （ or the effect of surface waves） should be incorporated properly into climate models in order to simulate or forecast the ocean, then climate system, more accurately. 相似文献
10.
海浪破碎使得海面产生飞沫水滴，由于飞沫水滴的存在改变着大气和海洋之间的能量传输。飞沫生产函数一般认为是水滴初始半径和风速的函数，但海浪时刻存在于海-气界面，仅仅考虑海面风的作用，而忽略海浪的影响是不够完善的。白冠覆盖率是海浪破碎的重要特征参数，有研究者发现白冠覆盖率与海面风速和海浪均存在相关性。本文尝试从白冠覆盖率出发，构建飞沫水滴的生成函数参数化方案，将描述不同飞沫水滴半径的飞沫生成函数基于白冠覆盖率参数有机整合，然后结合白冠覆盖率和海浪状态的关系，利用实验室观测数据，分析不同海浪状态条件下海浪对飞沫生成函数的影响。研究结果表明，新的考虑波浪效应的飞沫生成函数可以合理地描述不同海浪状态条件下飞沫水滴的生成过程。 相似文献
11.
Ocean surface waves are strongly forced by high wind conditions associated with winter storms in the Sea of Japan. They are also modulated by tides and storm surges. The effects of the variability in surface wind forcing, tides and storm surges on the waves are investigated using a wave model, a high-resolution atmospheric mesoscale model and a hydrodynamic ocean circulation model. Five month-long wave model simulations are inducted to examine the sensitivity of ocean waves to various wind forcing fields, tides and storm surges during January 1997. Compared with observed mean wave parameters, results indicate that the high frequency variability in the surface wind filed has very great effect on wave simulation. Tides and storm surges have a significant impact on the waves in nearshores of the Tsushima-kaihyō, but not for other regions in the Sea of Japan. High spatial and temporal resolution and good quality surface wind products will be crucial for the prediction of surface waves in the JES and other marginal seas, especially near the coastal regions. 相似文献
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14.
Using all of the atmospheric patterns classified by Polyakova A.M., we accomplished calculations of the surface wind fields
over the North Pacific for wind waves observable 6, 12, 18, and 24 hours after a storm and the swell waves observable 24,
48, and 72 hours after a storm. The considerable extension of the ocean creates quasi-unlimited speeding up of the wind waves
during continuous strong winds (over 20 meters per second). This determines the presence of wide areas of highly developed
wind waves with a 5% probability that the wave heights will exceed the 10–12 meter estimates. The swell waves decay faster:
their height reduces by half in 24 h, while, in 72 h, they achieve the background level of the ocean’s swell waves. 相似文献
15.
《Marine Policy》2017
The rapid Arctic summer sea ice reduction in the last decade has lead to debates in the maritime industries on the possibility of an increase in cargo transportation in the region. Average sailing times on the North Sea Route along the Siberian Coast have fallen from 20 days in the 1990s to 11 days in 2012–2013, attributed to easing sea ice conditions along the Siberian coast. However, the economic risk of exploiting the Arctic shipping routes is substantial. Here a detailed high-resolution projection of ocean and sea ice to the end of the 21st century forced with the RCP8.5 IPCC emission scenario is used to examine navigability of the Arctic sea routes. In summer, opening of large areas of the Arctic Ocean previously covered by pack ice to the wind and surface waves leads to Arctic pack ice cover evolving into the Marginal Ice Zone. The emerging state of the Arctic Ocean features more fragmented thinner sea ice, stronger winds, ocean currents and waves. By the mid 21st century, summer season sailing times along the route via the North Pole are estimated to be 13–17 days, which could make this route as fast as the North Sea Route. 相似文献
16.
Microwave remote sensing is one of the most useful methods for observing the ocean parameters. The Doppler frequency or interferometric phase of the radar echoes can be used for an ocean surface current speed retrieval,which is widely used in spaceborne and airborne radars. While the effect of the ocean currents and waves is interactional. It is impossible to retrieve the ocean surface current speed from Doppler frequency shift directly. In order to study the relationship between the ocean surface current speed and the Doppler frequency shift, a numerical ocean surface Doppler spectrum model is established and validated with a reference. The input parameters of ocean Doppler spectrum include an ocean wave elevation model, a directional distribution function, and wind speed and direction. The suitable ocean wave elevation spectrum and the directional distribution function are selected by comparing the ocean Doppler spectrum in C band with an empirical geophysical model function(CDOP). What is more, the error sensitivities of ocean surface current speed to the wind speed and direction are analyzed. All these simulations are in Ku band. The simulation results show that the ocean surface current speed error is sensitive to the wind speed and direction errors. With VV polarization, the ocean surface current speed error is about 0.15 m/s when the wind speed error is 2 m/s, and the ocean surface current speed error is smaller than 0.3 m/s when the wind direction error is within 20° in the cross wind direction. 相似文献
17.
天气和气候分析的事实告诉我们,赤道地区不仅存在着天气尺度的扰动,同时也存在着长达数月乃至数年的准周期性振动.这类长周期的振动也出现在海洋运动(如海流和海水温度)中.关于赤道地区天气尺度的扰动,松野(Matsuno)[1]等从理论上作过分析.他采用beta平面近似,得到了赤道地区混合罗斯贝(Rossby)重力波等几种波动. 相似文献
18.
This is a Part I of a paper of nonlinearities of wind waves in the deep open ocean. First, considerations are given in order to verify the theoretical expression for bound waves from observed data. We compare the contribution of bound waves and double Bragg scattering to the second-order scattering, and we show that the contribution of bound waves is larger, and that bound waves can be detected by measuring the Doppler spectra of HF (high-frequency) radio wave scattering from the sea surface. Moreover, if the theory of the HF radio wave scattering from the sea surface is verified, so is the second-order perturbation theory for bound waves. Then, the contributions of bound waves to ocean wave spectra are investigated on the basis of the nonlinear theory. The bound waves are shown to modify frequency spectra and wave directional distributions at higher frequencies, and it is shown that although the modifications of frequency spectra are smaller for a two-dimensional field case than for a one-dimensional field case, they are not negligible at higher frequencies. On the other hand, the modifications of wave directional distributions are shown to be significant at higher frequencies. These discussions become significant only when bound wave predictions are verified in the open ocean. Consequently, it is shown that nonlinearities of water waves are important in considering both radio wave scattering from the sea surface and the detailed structures of ocean wave spectra at high frequencies. 相似文献
19.
Effects of surface waves and sea spray on air–sea fluxes during the passage of Typhoon Hagupit 总被引：3，自引：1，他引：2
Air–sea exchange plays a vital role in the development and maintenance of tropical cyclones(TCs). Although studies have suggested the dependence of air–sea fluxes on surface waves and sea spray, how these processes modify those fluxes under TC conditions have not been sufficiently investigated based on in-situ observations.Using continuous meteorological and surface wave data from a moored buoy in the northern South China Sea,this study examines the effects of surface waves and sea spray on air–sea fluxes during the passage of Typhoon Hagupit. The mooring was within about 40 km of the center of Hagupit. Surface waves could increase momentum flux to the ocean by about 15%, and sea spray enhanced both sensible and latent heat fluxes to the atmosphere,causing Hagupit to absorb 500 W/m~2 more heat flux from the ocean. These results have powerful implications for understanding TC–ocean interaction and improving TC intensity forecasting. 相似文献
20.
利用LINUX操作系统下的进程通讯(IPC)技术将中尺度大气模式MM5(V3)与第三代海浪模式WW3进行双向耦合,建立考虑大气-海浪相互作用的风浪耦合模式,在耦合模式中引入3种海表粗糙度参数化方案,通过对一次热带气旋过程的模拟,研究大气-海浪相互作用对热带气旋系统的影响及耦合模式对海表粗糙度参数化方案的敏感性。结果表明:LINUX系统下的进程通讯技术可以方便有效地实现大气和海浪模式的双向耦合,模式运行稳定;耦合模式能够较好的模拟热带气旋的发展和演变过程及其影响下海浪场的分布和演变,模拟结果对海表粗糙度参数化方案较敏感;海浪的反馈作用同时影响了海气间的动力和热力作用过程,不同的海表粗糙度参数化方案下,海浪对两种作用过程不同的影响程度决定了其对气旋系统强度的影响。 相似文献