A note on estimation of the Jacobian elliptic parameter in cnoidal wave theory     

Y. -S. Cho   《Ocean Engineering》2003,30(15):1915-1922

A new and simple calculating technique for the Jacobian elliptic parameter is presented in this study. The technique is very useful in generating a train of cnoidal waves in both laboratory and numerical wave tanks. Upon specification of water depth, the wave height and either the wave period or the wavelength, the proposed technique uses the Newton–Raphson method to estimate the Jacobian elliptic parameter directly, without trial and error procedures or look-up in tables. It is shown that the technique provides equally accurate results as the ad hoc methods previously used.  相似文献   

Dynamic properties of green water event in the overtopping of extreme waves on a fixed dock     

Nobuhito Mori  Daniel T. Cox 《Ocean Engineering》2003,30(16):2021-2052

A statistical model is developed to predict wave overtopping volume and rate of extreme waves on a fixed deck. The probability density function for the volume and rate of overtopping water are formulated based on the truncated Weibull distribution with the assumption of local sinusoidal profile for small amplitude waves. Sensitivity to the wave nonlinearity parameter and deck clearance is discussed. The statistical model is compared to laboratory data of the instantaneous free surface elevation measured in front of a fixed deck, and overtopping volume and overtopping rate measured at the leading edge of the deck. The statistical theory compared well with the measured exceedance probability seaward of the deck. The model prediction of the exceedance probability of deck overtopping gave qualitatively good agreement for large overtopping values.  相似文献   

Modelling of periodic wave transformation in the inner surf zone     

P. Bonneton   《Ocean Engineering》2007,34(10):1459-1471

In this paper, we analyse the ability of the nonlinear shallow-water (NSW) equations to predict wave distortion and energy dissipation of periodic broken waves in the inner surf zone. This analysis is based on the weak-solution theory for conservative equations. We derive a new one-way model, which applies to the transformation of non-reflective periodic broken waves on gently sloping beaches. This model can be useful to develop breaking-wave parameterizations (in particular broken-wave celerity expression) in both time-averaged wave models and time-dependent Boussinesq-type models. We also derive a new wave set-up equation which provides a simple and explicit relation between wave set-up and energy dissipation. Finally, we compare numerical simulations of both, the NSW model and the simplified one-way model, with spilling wave breaking experiments and we find a good agreement.  相似文献   

Budgets of Mn,Cd and Cu in the macrotidal Gironde estuary (SW France)     

Stéphane Audry  Gérard BlancJörg Schäfer  Frédéric GuérinMatthieu Masson  Sébastien Robert 《Marine Chemistry》2007

The behavior and budget of Mn, Cd and Cu in the Gironde estuary were investigated through data from both the water column (WC) and sediment depth profiles. In the estuarine freshwater reaches, Mn and Cd removal from and Cu addition to the dissolved phase occurs with a magnitude equivalent to 10%, 30% and 25% of their respective annual fluvial gross dissolved input, respectively. In the saline estuary, diffusive benthic outflow is the main source of dissolved Mn (74% of the total gross dissolved input within the estuary) to the WC. In contrast, Cd (96%) and Cu (89%) are mainly released into the dissolved phase of the WC from fluvial, estuarine and dredging-related particles through complexation (Cd) and organic carbon mineralization (Cu). Anthropogenic activities (sediment dredging) induce pore water inputs, particulate sulfide oxidation and sediment resuspension, significantly contributing to the metal budget of the WC. The related amounts of metals released could be equivalent to 20–50% (Cd) and up to 70% (Cu) of their respective net dissolved addition. Mass balances suggest that a large part of the metals previously released into the dissolved phase from processes within the estuary are removed by suspended particles due to (co-)precipitation of Fe/Mn (oxy)hydroxides and scavenging on autochthonous organic matter. On an annual basis, the Gironde estuary acts as a net sink of dissolved Mn, removing 60% of the dissolved fluvial inputs, and as a net source of dissolved Cd and Cu, contributing ∼ 85% and 20–45% to the dissolved Cd and Cu fluxes to the ocean.  相似文献   

黄海冷水团演变过程及其与邻近水团关系的分析   总被引：43，自引：12，他引：43  

于非  张志欣  刁新源  郭景松  汤毓祥 《海洋学报》2006,28(5):26-34

黄海冷水团是出现在黄海的一种独特的水文现象.文中利用覆盖整个黄海的GDEM三维水温资料,结合近期一些大型调查所获得的有关观测研究结果,首先较系统地分析了黄海冷水团的形成和演变过程,并对冷水团3个冷中心的季节演变提出了一些与前不同的认识.同时,通过对黄海冷水团形成、发展和消亡与该海域温跃层演变关系的分析,进一步揭示了黄海冷水团演变的机理.然后,探讨了黄海冷水团演变过程中与青岛和仁川东南海域冷水团以及东海北部底层冷水的关系.分析表明,在黄海冷水团发展的鼎盛时期,青岛冷水团和仁川东南海域冷水团以及东海北部底层冷水皆包络其中.  相似文献   

Drag Coefficient,Dynamic Roughness and Reference Wind Speed     

Paul?A.?HwangEmail author 《Journal of Oceanography》2005,61(3):399-413

Surface waves are the roughness element of the ocean surface. The parameterization of the drag coefficient of the ocean surface is simplified by referencing to wind speed at an elevation proportional to the characteristic wavelength. The dynamic roughness is analytically related to the drag coefficient. Under the assumption of fetch limited wave growth condition, various empirical functions of the dynamic roughness can be converted to equivalent expressions for comparison. For datasets covering a wide range of the dimensionless frequency (inverse wave age), it is important to account for the variable rate of wave development at different wave ages. As a result, the dependence of the Charnock parameter on wave age is nonmonotonic. Finally, the analysis presented here suggests that the significant wave steepness is a sensitive property of the ocean surface and a single variable normalization of the dynamic roughness using a wavelength or wave height parameter actually produces more robust functions than bi-variable normalizations using wave height and wave slope.  相似文献   

Long-Period Distribution of Wave Heights and Its Application     

Weng Keqin Associate Professor  Hydraulic  Hydro-Power Engineering Dept.  Tsinghua University  Beijing 《中国海洋工程》1995,(2)

This paper reveals that the long-period statistic distribution of the characteristic heights of deep-water waves assumes the lognormal distribution. Thereafter, the largest wave-height which may occur in the service life of coastal structures is derived in this paper.  相似文献   

南麂站定常波风浪波高与风速的经验关系     

黄树生 《海洋学研究》1994,12(4):1-8

本文以南麂海洋站１９８３～１９９０年风、浪的实测资料为依据，建立了南麂海城春、夏、秋、冬季定常波风浪波高与风速的经验关系式。检验结果表明，曲线回归显著，计算值与实测值吻合良好。文中还对偏ＮＮＥ向和偏ＳＳＷ向计算波高随风速增大的快慢，同一方向在同一风速作用下计算波高的季节变化及其机理作了初浅的讨论。  相似文献   

Action of Cnoidal Waves on Vertical Walls     

Qiu Dahong  Zang Jun  Jia Ying Academician of the Chinese Academy of Sciences  Professor  the State Key Laboratory of Coastal  Offshore Engineering 《中国海洋工程》1996,(2)

Based on the 2nd order cnoidal wave theory, the characters of shallow water standing waves and their action on vertical walls are studied in this paper. The theoretical expressions of the wave surface elevation in front of and the wave pressure on the vertical wall are obtained. In order to verify the theoretical results, model tests were made in the State Key Laboratory of Coastal and Offshore Engineering at DUT. For the wave surface elevation in front of the wall and the wave forces on the wall at the moment when the wave surface at the wall surface goes down to the bottom of the wave trough, the calculated results coincide quite well with the experimental results. For the wave forces on the wall at the moment when the wave surface at the wall surface goes up to the top of the wave crest, the theoretical expressions are modified by the experimental results. For the convenience of practical use, calculations are made for the wave conditions which usually occur in enginering practice by use of the inves  相似文献   

山东蓬莱西庄附近海域波浪与海岸侵蚀     

陈雪英  胡泽建 《海洋科学进展》1992,(2)

本文探讨西庄附近海域的波浪状况,分析由于人工挖沙影响,使得登州浅滩的防护作用发生变化,导致近岸波浪作用增强,造成海岸侵蚀.最后讨论设计波要素的确定,为防浪护坡工程提供必要的设计依据.  相似文献