Modelling of periodic wave transformation in the inner surf zone     

P. Bonneton   《Ocean Engineering》2007,34(10):1459-1471

In this paper, we analyse the ability of the nonlinear shallow-water (NSW) equations to predict wave distortion and energy dissipation of periodic broken waves in the inner surf zone. This analysis is based on the weak-solution theory for conservative equations. We derive a new one-way model, which applies to the transformation of non-reflective periodic broken waves on gently sloping beaches. This model can be useful to develop breaking-wave parameterizations (in particular broken-wave celerity expression) in both time-averaged wave models and time-dependent Boussinesq-type models. We also derive a new wave set-up equation which provides a simple and explicit relation between wave set-up and energy dissipation. Finally, we compare numerical simulations of both, the NSW model and the simplified one-way model, with spilling wave breaking experiments and we find a good agreement.  相似文献   

Design and Strength Analysis of A Spherical Connector for Lifting Subsystem in Deep Sea Mining System     

冯雅丽张文明  冯福璋 《中国海洋工程》2006,20(4):605-613

1 .IntroductionThe lifting systemis composed of pipes andtheir connectors .It is not onlythe lifting channel formanganese nodule betweenthe miningship andintermediate bin,but alsothe supporting massfor deepsea miningequipment and cables .Sothe reliability…  相似文献   

Drag Coefficient,Dynamic Roughness and Reference Wind Speed     

Paul?A.?HwangEmail author 《Journal of Oceanography》2005,61(3):399-413

Surface waves are the roughness element of the ocean surface. The parameterization of the drag coefficient of the ocean surface is simplified by referencing to wind speed at an elevation proportional to the characteristic wavelength. The dynamic roughness is analytically related to the drag coefficient. Under the assumption of fetch limited wave growth condition, various empirical functions of the dynamic roughness can be converted to equivalent expressions for comparison. For datasets covering a wide range of the dimensionless frequency (inverse wave age), it is important to account for the variable rate of wave development at different wave ages. As a result, the dependence of the Charnock parameter on wave age is nonmonotonic. Finally, the analysis presented here suggests that the significant wave steepness is a sensitive property of the ocean surface and a single variable normalization of the dynamic roughness using a wavelength or wave height parameter actually produces more robust functions than bi-variable normalizations using wave height and wave slope.  相似文献   

Long-Period Distribution of Wave Heights and Its Application     

Weng Keqin Associate Professor  Hydraulic  Hydro-Power Engineering Dept.  Tsinghua University  Beijing 《中国海洋工程》1995,(2)

This paper reveals that the long-period statistic distribution of the characteristic heights of deep-water waves assumes the lognormal distribution. Thereafter, the largest wave-height which may occur in the service life of coastal structures is derived in this paper.  相似文献   

南麂站定常波风浪波高与风速的经验关系     

黄树生 《海洋学研究》1994,12(4):1-8

本文以南麂海洋站１９８３～１９９０年风、浪的实测资料为依据，建立了南麂海城春、夏、秋、冬季定常波风浪波高与风速的经验关系式。检验结果表明，曲线回归显著，计算值与实测值吻合良好。文中还对偏ＮＮＥ向和偏ＳＳＷ向计算波高随风速增大的快慢，同一方向在同一风速作用下计算波高的季节变化及其机理作了初浅的讨论。  相似文献   

Action of Cnoidal Waves on Vertical Walls     

Qiu Dahong  Zang Jun  Jia Ying Academician of the Chinese Academy of Sciences  Professor  the State Key Laboratory of Coastal  Offshore Engineering 《中国海洋工程》1996,(2)

Based on the 2nd order cnoidal wave theory, the characters of shallow water standing waves and their action on vertical walls are studied in this paper. The theoretical expressions of the wave surface elevation in front of and the wave pressure on the vertical wall are obtained. In order to verify the theoretical results, model tests were made in the State Key Laboratory of Coastal and Offshore Engineering at DUT. For the wave surface elevation in front of the wall and the wave forces on the wall at the moment when the wave surface at the wall surface goes down to the bottom of the wave trough, the calculated results coincide quite well with the experimental results. For the wave forces on the wall at the moment when the wave surface at the wall surface goes up to the top of the wave crest, the theoretical expressions are modified by the experimental results. For the convenience of practical use, calculations are made for the wave conditions which usually occur in enginering practice by use of the inves  相似文献   

山东蓬莱西庄附近海域波浪与海岸侵蚀     

陈雪英  胡泽建 《海洋科学进展》1992,(2)

本文探讨西庄附近海域的波浪状况,分析由于人工挖沙影响,使得登州浅滩的防护作用发生变化,导致近岸波浪作用增强,造成海岸侵蚀.最后讨论设计波要素的确定,为防浪护坡工程提供必要的设计依据.  相似文献   

海洋平台沉垫的波浪载荷试验研究   总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2  

姚美旺  张承懿  缪国平  季春群 《海洋工程》1997,(4)

本文通过对海洋平台沉垫的波浪载荷试验研究分析，着重研究了在规则波中平台沉垫总体波浪载荷和局部水动压力分布的情况，定性地考察了非线性影响、浅水影响的重要性，为今后波浪理论中粘性的引入，进而考虑粘性与波浪运动的非线性相互干扰提供实测依据  相似文献   

JONSWAP谱和N谱的几个对应特征量间的关系     

施平  郭佩芳 《海洋与湖沼》1996,27(6):605-611

研究了风浪频谱ＪＯＮＳＷＡＰ谱的峰度因子γ、尖度因子Ｐｊ和Ｎ谱尖度因子ＰＮ，参变量ｐ，ｑ间的关系；并在此关系上给出了由这两种谱计算的几个对应参量间的关系，在使用不同的谱形进行特征量的计算时，应注意不同频谱间的成长因子致性，以免引起计算结果的错误。  相似文献   

The wave transformation and breaking phenomena in shallow water     

Li Yucheng 《海洋学报(英文版)》1996,15(2):261-272

Ｔｈｅｗａｖｅｔｒａｎｓｆｏｒｍａｔｉｏｎａｎｄｂｒｅａｋｉｎｇｐｈｅｎｏｍｅｎａｉｎｓｈａｌｌｏｗｗａｔｅｒ￥ＬｉＹｕｃｈｅｎｇ（１．ＤａｌｉａｎＵｎｉｖｅｒｓｉｔｙｏｆＴｅｃｈｎｏｌｏｇｙ，Ｄａｌｉａｎ１１６０２３，Ｃｈｉｎａ）Ａｂｓｔｒａｃｔ：...  相似文献