Experimental study of the breaking limit of multi-directional random waves passing over an impermeable submerged breakwater     

D. -S. Hur  N. Kawashima  K. Iwata 《Ocean Engineering》2003,30(15):1923-1940

This study investigates experimentally the breaking wave height of multi-directional random waves passing over an impermeable submerged breakwater. Experiments have been conducted in a three-dimensional wave basin equipped with a multi-directional random wave generator. A special type of wave gauge has been newly devised to record the water surface elevations in the breaker zone as accurately as possible. The records are analyzed to estimate the location and limit of wave breaking. Comparisons have also been made with the results of regular waves. The influence of the incident wave conditions on the breaking wave height normalized by the breakwater dimensions has been investigated. Empirical formulae have been presented to estimate the breaking limit of multi-directional random waves based on the experimental records. The formulae have been tested and found to work well not only for multi-directional random waves, but for regular waves as well.  相似文献   

长江口枯季悬沙粒度与浓度之间的关系   总被引：4，自引：0，他引：4  

王爱军  汪亚平  高抒  潘少明 《海洋科学进展》2005,23(2):159-167

2003和2004年枯季在长江口采集水样并作水文观测，对所获水样进行过滤和粒度分析，以计算悬沙浓度和悬沙粒度分布。结果表明，2003年11月小潮期间，悬沙中值粒径与悬沙浓度存在着显著的指数关系，在大潮期间没有显著关系；在2004年2月小湖期间，两者之间没有显著关系，但在大潮期间存在着显著的指数关系。枯季水体悬沙以粉砂组份为主，并且随着向口外的推移，细颗粒组份逐渐增加，但在拦门沙最大浑浊带附近，由于絮凝作用，沉积物粒度变幅较大，可产生粒径粗化的现象。小潮期间，砂含量较低，但与悬沙浓度之间有显著相关关系；大潮期间，悬沙粒径粗化，但砂含量与悬沙浓度之间的关系不显著。上述分布趋势与沉积物来源、当地的水动力条件和絮凝作用等因素有密切关系。  相似文献   

太平洋三海区热液烟囱物的氧同位素特征及形成温度     

WU Shi ying  LIU Yan guang  ZHANG Dao jian  BAI Li ming  WU Jun rui 《海洋科学进展》2001,(3)

使用氧同位素方法 ,测试了西太平洋马里亚纳岛弧、马里亚纳海槽、冲绳海槽和东太平洋加拉帕戈斯裂谷的海底热液烟囱和硫化物全岩样品。结果表明 :马里亚纳岛弧上的埃斯梅拉尔达破火山口的热液硫化物的形成温度最高 (达 2 75℃ ) ,而成为高温产物的代表 ;冲绳海槽和加拉帕戈斯裂谷烟囱 ,表现为中高温类型 ,其氧同位素温度在 1 5 0℃左右 ;马里亚纳海槽以蛋白石为主要矿物的烟囱物 ,则显示出典型的低温热液类型 ,少量黄铁矿砂试样则表现出中温类型特征。但上述区域大都不同程度地存在有闪锌矿、黄铁矿、黄铜矿等中高温热液矿物 ,说明研究区除马里亚纳海槽明显有中低温热液活动类型外 ,其它区域皆具备中高温热液活动特征  相似文献   

Reduction of sand demand for shore protection     

Arved J. Raudkivi  Hans-H. Dette   《Coastal Engineering》2002,45(3-4)

Beach nourishment is an environmentally preferred method of shore protection, but the annual sand requirement may lead to substantial maintenance costs. The shoreline processes, involving the surf zone, beach and dune, are reviewed with the aim of reducing the annual sand requirement of eroding shorelines. It is shown that surf zones with equilibrium profiles, on which the wave energy conversion is evenly distributed across the surf zone, from experience for given conditions indicate least loss of sand. On steep, eroding shorelines it may be difficult to establish an equilibrium profile. For such cases, the use of perched surf zones is recommended, which are supported at the seaward limit by an underwater sill. For reduction of littoral transport, the use of pervious pile groynes is recommended. These are arguably more efficient than impervious groynes. The sand loss from a usually dry beach by raised water levels is shown to be a function of the beach slope and is least when the storm waves at raised water levels do not cut an erosion escarpment. The loss of sand from a dune by infrequent severe storm tides can be prevented with the aid of a built-in membrane. These sand losses are usually large and constitute an uneconomic use of this sand resource. The proposed concepts and measures are linked to existing knowledge, augmented by data from the large wave flume (LWF) in Germany and field data from the North and Baltic Sea coasts.  相似文献   

Intercomparison of coastal area morphodynamic models     

J. Nicholson  I. Broker  J. A. Roelvink  D. Price  J. M. Tanguy  L. Moreno 《Coastal Engineering》1997,31(1-4)

Five different coastal area morphodynamic models have been set up to run on the same offshore breakwater layout and an intercomparison carried out on the hydrodynamic and morphodynamic output produced by each scheme. In addition, the predicted morphodynamics was checked against available laboratory and field data.It is concluded that the models are capable of producing realistic estimates for the dominant morphodynamic features associated with offshore breakwaters. Coupling of the wave, current and sediment transport components of each scheme is shown to yield bathymetry which attains a state of equilibrium, unlike models which are based on the initial transport field only.  相似文献   

厦门港岩相潮间带多毛类的生态   总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2  

郑凤武  吴启泉 《台湾海峡》1997,16(1):85-89

本文根据１９８７年２、５、８、１１月调查资料，研究了厦门港岩相潮间带多毛类的种类组成、种类与数量的垂直分布、季节变化，并与大亚湾多毛类生态进行比较。结果表明，调查区域有多毛类４７种。平均栖息密度６０个／ｍ＾２，平均生物量１．７８ｇ／ｍ＾２，潮汐作用影响多毛类的种数、密度、生物量的垂直分布。多毛类数量的季节变化不甚明显，但冬季的栖息密度和春季的生物量较高。  相似文献   

红河断裂构造带在东南亚的延伸特征及其大地构造意义     

李桂群  李学伦 《中国海洋大学学报(自然科学版)》1990,(2)

根据地质、地貌及地球物理资料分析,探讨展布于云南边陲哀牢山两侧的北西向断裂组成的红河断裂构造带,在东南亚的延伸特征。提出在该延伸带两侧沉积建造、构造活动,地球物理场和大地构造发展上均有显著差异。并进一步探讨该断裂构造带在大地构造上的意义。  相似文献   

南沙群岛海域构造地层及构造运动   总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1  

姜绍仁  周效中 《热带海洋学报》1993,(4)

根据对“实验2”号调查船1987—1991年测得的反射地震剖面的解释,论述了南沙群岛海域的构造层划分、时代属性与分布发育特征。提出本区自白垩纪中期以来发生过两次重大的构造运动,形成两个裂谷作用构造旋回。  相似文献   

厦门港岩石岸潮间带软体动物的生态   总被引：2，自引：1，他引：2  

李复雪  蔡立哲 《台湾海峡》1994,13(1):43-51

本文根据１９８２年２月至１９８３年２月在厦门港岩石岩潮间带采集的软体动物，论述了其种类组成，数量分布，生活型及影响软件动物分布的主要环境因子，厦门港岩石岸潮间带共发现软动物５４种。其中，多板类６种，腹足类３３种，双壳类１５种，优势种有僧帽牡蛎，黑荞麦蛤，复瓦小蛇螺，粗糙滨螺等。与６０年代初调查结果比较得出，厦门港岩石岸潮间带的软体动物群落是相对稳定的，潮汐是决定河口结果比较得出，厦门港岩石岩潮间带  相似文献   

The recreational fishery off Majorca Island (western Mediterranean): some implications for coastal resource management   总被引：3，自引：0，他引：3  

Morales-Nin  Beatriz; Moranta  Joan; Garcia  Cristina; Tugores  Maria Pilar; Grau  Antoni Maria; Riera  Francisco; Cerda  Margalida 《ICES Journal of Marine Science》2005,62(4):727-739

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