利用滩坝砂体规模研究古风力的定量恢复^*     

王俊辉  姜在兴  鲜本忠  张春明  李国斌 《古地理学报》2021,23(5):937-950

古风力是一项重要的古气候指标,其定量恢复是一个难题。风作用于水体产生的波浪大小间接地反映了风力,能够为古风力的恢复提供思路。发育于破浪带和冲浪回流带的破浪沙坝、沿岸沙坝分别记录了破浪和冲浪过程,作者分别介绍利用古湖泊中发育的破浪沙坝和沿岸沙坝进行古波况和古风力恢复的原理和操作流程。(1)根据破浪沙坝的几何形态,可以将其厚度与破浪水深建立函数关系,而破浪水深又由破浪波高决定,因此破浪沙坝厚度可以恢复破浪波高,据此可以进一步根据波浪统计关系恢复有效波高、根据风浪关系恢复风力。此方法依托以下3个参数: 单期次的破浪沙坝厚度、破浪沙坝的基座坡角、古风程。(2)沿岸沙坝厚度近似记录了冲浪的极限高度,后者受控于有效波高,据此也可以恢复有效波高和风力。此方法依托以下5个参数: 单期次的沿岸沙坝厚度、古(平均)水深、古风程、古风向相对于岸线的入射角、组成沿岸沙坝的沉积物粒度。上述2种方法综合性较强,涉及古风向、古地形坡度、风程或盆地直径、古水深等参数的恢复,需要综合运用古地貌恢复、去压实校正、古岸线识别、古水深恢复等技术,并需要结合波浪理论。古湖泊滨岸带地层中保存有大量的滩坝沉积,利用其恢复古波况和古风况具有一定的应用前景,能够有助于更详细地重建沉积盆地的古地理背景。  相似文献   

Uncertainty in the application of the parabolic bay shape equation: Part 2     

Robert Lausman  Antonio H.F. Klein  Marcel J.F. Stive 《Coastal Engineering》2010

This paper attempts to highlight issues that are relevant in the application of the Parabolic Bay Shape Equation (PBSE) to a non-equilibrium bay. For this case, the bay of Imbituba in southern Brazil was chosen. The construction of a breakwater to shelter the port of Imbituba in the south of the bay was accompanied by an increase in sedimentation to the port area from an eroding downdrift beach. Superimposed plots of the coastline of the Bay of Imbituba from different years confirm a general trend of accretion of the southern part of the bay accompanied with a retreat of the coastline in the northern part. After the application of the PBSE it became clear that the breakwater caused a change in the equilibrium state of the bay. Between 1947 and 2001 the Bay of Imbituba has changed from a dynamic equilibrium to a natural beach reshaping or self-reshaping. The tendency of the sedimentation of the southern part of the bay can be explained by the SEP associated with the new updrift diffraction point (tip of the breakwater): The seaward position of the SEP predicts a need for additional sediment in order to achieve a stable plan form.  相似文献   

Static bay beach concept for scientists and engineers: A review     

John R.-C. Hsu  M.-J. Yu  F.-C. Lee  Lindino Benedet 《Coastal Engineering》2010

Headland-bay beach (HBB) is one of the most prominent physiographic features on the oceanic margin of many countries in the world. Under the influence of a predominant swell, its curved periphery in natural environment may reach static equilibrium and remains stable without sediment supply from updrift and/or a riverain source within its own embayment. Coastal scientists and engineers have attempted to develop mathematical expressions to quantify this ideal bay shape since the 1940s. As the scenario with depleting sediment supply has become a common reality on many parts of the world coastline in more recent time, some coastal engineers have advocated a rational approach to mimicking the static bay shape found in nature in order to mitigate beach erosion as well as for coastal management. Nowadays, many useful applications have emerged since the publication of the parabolic bay shape equation (PBSE) developed for static equilibrium planform (SEP) in late 1980s. The advance in modern computer technologies and international collaboration has further facilitated the exchange of knowledge and applications of this static bay beach concept (SBBC).  相似文献   

Physical determinants of intertidal communities on dissipative beaches: Implications of sea-level rise     

Tsuyuko Yamanaka  Dave RaffaelliPiran C.L. White 《Estuarine, Coastal and Shelf Science》2010

Sea-level rise is likely to cause significant changes in the morphodynamic state of beaches in the higher latitudes, resulting in steeper beaches with larger particle sizes. These physical changes have implications for beach invertebrate communities, which are determined largely by sediment particle size, and hence for ecosystem function. Previous studies have explored the relationships between invertebrate communities and environmental variables such as particle size, beach slope and exposure to wave action, and often these physical variables can be integrated in various indices of morphodynamic state. Most of these studies incorporated a full range of beach types that included wave-dominated surf beaches, where the wave action is harsh enough to enable reliable estimates of breaker height, a parameter included in several of the indices, and concluded that more dissipative beaches with gentler slopes and finer particle sizes often support a higher number of species and greater abundance than more reflective beaches. Whether these predictions remain valid for less wave-dominated beaches, where breaker height is more difficult to determine, is uncertain. In the present study, the abundance of meio- and macrofauna was quantified across a range of beaches in the UK, which are generally towards the lower energy end of the morphodynamic gradient, and their relationships with beach physical properties explored. No significant relationships were found between abundance and the standard morphodynamic indices, but significant relationships were found for both macro- and meiofaunal abundance when these indices were combined with an exposure index (derived from velocity, direction, duration and the effective fetch). All the relationships identified between abundance and combined morphodynamic indices indicated a higher abundance of both macro- and meiofauna on the more dissipative beaches. The reverse was however found for species richness. If predictions that accelerated sea-level rise will move beaches towards a more reflective morphodynamic state are correct, this could lead to declines in the abundance of meio- and macrofauna, with potential adverse consequences for ecosystem functioning.  相似文献   

闽粤台沿海北西西向最新构造带与大震构造背景   总被引：3，自引：0，他引：3       下载免费PDF全文

毕福志  袁又申 《地震地质》1990,12(2):183-192,T001

闽粤台沿海自台湾运动以来逐渐形成了多条北西西向隆起—拗陷的最新活动构造带,与已知的北东—北北东向隆起、拗陷带构成了区域性镶嵌构造格局。 研究区内除板块相互碰撞、俯冲及上地幔物质上涌形成大震构造背景外,莫霍面隆起或隆起断距大、低速层厚、地壳变薄、近两、三千年地表抬升差异活动显著以及台东近海有北西西向构造活动等,也都是发生大震的重要构造背景  相似文献   

Location and height of intertidal bars on macrotidal ridge and runnel beaches     

Gerhard Masselink  Edward J. Anthony 《地球表面变化过程与地形》2001,26(7):759-774

Previous studies devoted to the morphology and hydrodynamics of ridge and runnel beaches highlight characteristics that deviate from those initially postulated by King and Williams (Geographical Journal, 1949, vol. 113, 70–85) and King (Beaches and Coasts, 1972, Edward Arnold). Disagreements on the morphodynamics of these macrotidal beaches include the position of the ridges relative to the mean neap and spring tide levels, the variation in the height of the ridges across the intertidal profile and, most importantly, whether the ridges are formed by swash or surf zone processes. The morphological characteristics of ridge and runnel beaches from three locations with varying wave, tidal and geomorphic settings were investigated to address these disagreements. Beach profiles from each site were analysed together with water‐level data collected from neighbouring ports. It was found that the ridges occur over the entire intertidal zone. On one site (north Lincolnshire, east England), the ridges are uniformly distributed over the intertidal beach, whereas on the two other sites (Blackpool beach, northwest England, and Leffrinckoucke beach, north France) there is some indication that the ridges appear to occur at preferential locations. Most significantly, the locations of the ridge crests were found to be unrelated to the positions on the intertidal profile where the water level is stationary for the longest time. It was further found that the highest ridges generally occur just above mid‐tide level where tidal non‐stationarity is greatest. These findings argue against the hypothesis that the ridges are formed by swash processes acting at stationary tide levels. It is tentatively suggested that the ridges are the result of a combination of swash and surf zone processes acting across the intertidal zone. Elucidation of the morphodynamic roles of these two types of processes, and other processes such as strong current flows in the runnels, requires further comprehensive field measurements complemented by numerical modelling. Copyright © 2001 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

The role of wind direction in eolian transport on a narrow sandy beach     

Karl F. Nordstrom  Nancy L. Jackson 《地球表面变化过程与地形》1993,18(8):675-685

Comparison of eolian transport during five high-velocity wind events over a 29 day period on a narrow estuarine beach in Delaware Bay, New Jersey, USA, reveals the temporal variability of transport, due to changes in direction of wind approach. Mean wind speed measured 6 m above the dune crest for the five events ranged from 8·5 to 15·9 ms^?1. Mean wind direction was oblique to the shoreline (63° from shore-normal) during one event but was within 14° of shore-normal during the other events. Eolian transport is greatest during low tide and rising tide, when the beach source area is widest and when drying of surface sediments occurs. The quantity of sediment caught in a vertical trap for the five events varied from a total of 0·07 to 113·73 kgm^?1. Differences in temperature, relative humidity and moisture and salt content of surficial sediments were slight. Mean grain sizes ranged from 0·33 to 0·58 mm, causing slight differences in threshold shear velocity, but shear velocities exceeded the threshold required for transport during all events. Beach width, measured normal to the shoreline, varied from 15·5 to 18·0 m; beach slope differed by 0·5°. The oblique wind during one event created a source width nearly double the width during other days. Beach slope, measured in the direction of the wind, was less than half as steep as the slope measured normal to the shoreline. The amount of sand trapped during the oblique wind was over 20 times greater than any other event, even those with higher shear velocities. The ability of the beach surface to supply grains to the air stream is limited on narrow beaches, but increased source width, due to oblique wind approach, can partially overcome limitations of surface conditions on the beach.  相似文献   

Consequences of a freshwater canal discharge on the benthic community and its habitat on an exposed sandy beach     

Lercari D  Defeo O  Celentano E 《Marine pollution bulletin》2002,44(12):1397-1404

This paper analyses the spatial and temporal effects of a freshwater discharge (Canal Andreoni) on the macroinfauna community and its habitat in a sandy beach of Uruguay. Bimonthly, we examined 17 environmental variables plus macroinfauna abundance, biomass, richness, evenness and diversity of three sites: Andreoni, at the canal mouth, Coronilla, at 1 km, and Barra, at 13 km from the mouth. Both univariate and multivariate techniques showed an increasing degree of perturbation towards the canal. This was reflected by abiotic and biotic differences between sites and by a consistent two-dimensional ordination of the samples. A clear seasonal pattern was found, specially accentuated at Coronilla, where the effects of the canal were stronger in winter and weaker in summer. Multivariate linking between macroinfauna and its habitat highlighted the role of salinity as explanatory variable of the observed trends.  相似文献   

鄂尔多斯风沙滩地区土壤凝结水试验研究   总被引：7，自引：0，他引：7  

王哲  梁煦枫  王德建  王杰  王丽娟 《地下水》2006,28(6):28-31

鄂尔多斯风沙滩地区,常年干旱少雨,蒸发强烈,地下水资源消耗主要源于表土蒸发.而土壤凝结水的形成与转化又与表土蒸发之间存在着十分密切的关系.作者在内蒙古自治区乌审旗气象局院内,采用自制的笼屉式测渗仪进行土壤凝结水的观测试验研究,测量方法为称重法.并同步观测地表以上50cm处的空气温湿度以及地表和地表以下5cm、10cm、15cm、20cm、30cm、40cm、50cm处的土壤温度.通过试验,初步探明了该区土壤凝结水的形成与转化的基本过程,以及土壤凝结水的转化与气象因素之间的相关关系.  相似文献   

长江口岸带冲淤及后备土地资源的沉降效应——以上海崇明东滩为例   总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2  

龚士良  杨世伦 《水文》2007,27(5):78-82

长江口入海泥沙的淤积是上海后备土地资源的重要来源，分析岸带冲淤的演变．有助于对岸带经济圈特别是围垦促淤地区因经济工程活动引发的地面沉降问题的剖析。本文以上海崇明东滩为例，分析30年来的冲淤变化及未来趋势，并据此对新近沉积土的地面沉降效应作简要阐述。  相似文献