A New Pursuit Mode of Nonlinear Wave Surface     

孙大鹏李玉成  郭海滨 《中国海洋工程》2004,18(2):257-266

The numerical mode of nonlinear wave transformation based on both the Laplace equation for water field and the Bemoulli equation for water surface is a kind of time-domain boundary problem with initial conditions. And the basis for establishing the numerical mode of nonlinear wave in time domain is to trace the position of wave free surface and to calculale the instantaneous surface height and surface potential function. This paper firstly utilizes the ‘0-1‘ combined BEM to separate the boundary by means of discretization of Green‘ s integral equation based on the Laplace equation, then separates the free surface of wave with FEM and derives the FEM equation of wave surface that satisfies the nonlinear boundary conditions. By jointly solving the above BEM and FEM equations, the wave potential and surface height could be obtained with iteration in time domain. Thus a new kind of nonlinear numerical mode is established for calculating wave transformation. The wave test in the numerical wave tank shows that the numerical simulation with this mode is of high accuracy.  相似文献   

Spatial patterns and environmental risks of ringnet fishing along the Kenyan coast     

P Thoya  S Pérez-Jorge  GM Okemwa  H Mwamlavya  A Tuda  N Wambiji 《African Journal of Marine Science》2020,42(1):23-33

Ringnet fishing began in the early 20th century and is practised worldwide, mainly to target nearshore pelagic species. The method was introduced to Kenya’s coastal waters by migrant fishers from Tanzania. However, the impacts of this fishing gear remain poorly assessed. We assessed the spatial distribution of ringnet fishing effort and its possible effects on ecosystem components, such as coral reefs, marine megafauna and marine protected areas, on the south coast of Kenya. We tracked 89 ringnet fishing trips made from December 2015 to January 2016 and used spatial multicriteria analysis to determine hotspots of possible environmental risks. The results showed that habitat type and bathymetric profile influenced the spatial distribution of ringnet fishing effort. Mixed seagrass and coral habitats had the highest concentration of the effort. Most of the habitats in the study area were moderately exposed to the impacts of the ringnet fishery. The study identifies high-risk areas that require spatial measures to minimise possible environmental risks of the gear both to habitats and to endangered sea turtles.  相似文献   

Dynamic analysis of a vertical plate exposed to breaking wave impact     

M. Salih Kirkgoz  A. Kamil Tanrikulu  Cengiz Dündar 《Ocean Engineering》2004,31(13):2308-1635

From the experimental studies in recent years, it has become known that when a wave breaks directly on a vertical faced coastal structure, high magnitude impact pressures are produced. The theoretical and experimental studies show that the dynamic response of such structures under wave impact loading is closely dependent on the magnitude and duration of the load history. The dynamic analysis and design of a coastal structure can be succeeded provided the design load history for the wave impact is available. Since these types of data are very scarce, it is much more convenient to follow a method which is based on static analysis for the dynamic design procedure. Therefore, to facilitate the dynamic design of a vertical plate that is exposed to breaking wave impact, a multiplication factor called “dynamic magnification factor” is herein presented which is defined as the ratio of the maximum value of the dynamic response to that found by static analysis. The computational results of the present study show that the dynamic magnification factor is a useful ratio to transfer the results of static analysis to the dynamic design of a coastal plate for the maximum impact pressure conditions of p_max/γH₀≤18.  相似文献   

Modelling of periodic wave transformation in the inner surf zone     

P. Bonneton   《Ocean Engineering》2007,34(10):1459-1471

In this paper, we analyse the ability of the nonlinear shallow-water (NSW) equations to predict wave distortion and energy dissipation of periodic broken waves in the inner surf zone. This analysis is based on the weak-solution theory for conservative equations. We derive a new one-way model, which applies to the transformation of non-reflective periodic broken waves on gently sloping beaches. This model can be useful to develop breaking-wave parameterizations (in particular broken-wave celerity expression) in both time-averaged wave models and time-dependent Boussinesq-type models. We also derive a new wave set-up equation which provides a simple and explicit relation between wave set-up and energy dissipation. Finally, we compare numerical simulations of both, the NSW model and the simplified one-way model, with spilling wave breaking experiments and we find a good agreement.  相似文献   

海洋平台沉垫的波浪载荷试验研究   总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2  

姚美旺  张承懿  缪国平  季春群 《海洋工程》1997,(4)

本文通过对海洋平台沉垫的波浪载荷试验研究分析，着重研究了在规则波中平台沉垫总体波浪载荷和局部水动压力分布的情况，定性地考察了非线性影响、浅水影响的重要性，为今后波浪理论中粘性的引入，进而考虑粘性与波浪运动的非线性相互干扰提供实测依据  相似文献   

Prediction of impact pressure induced by breaking waves on vertical cylinders in random seas     

Michel K. Ochi  Chen-Han Tsai 《Applied Ocean Research》1984,6(3):157-165

This paper presents a method to statistically predict the magnitude of impact pressure (including extreme values) produced by deep water waves breaking on a circular cylinder representing a column of an ocean structure. Breaking waves defined here are not those whose tops are blown off by the wind but those whose breaking is associated with steepness. The probability density function of wave period associated with breaking waves is derived for a specified wave spectrum, and then converted to the probability density function of impact pressure. Impacts caused by two different breaking conditions are considered; one is the impact associated with waves breaking in close proximity to the column, the other is an impact caused by waves approaching the column after they have broken. As an example of the application of the present method, numerical computations are carried out for a wave spectrum obtained from measured data in the North Atlantic.  相似文献   

钛型吸附剂的表面特性     

谢式南  王俊鹤  周英兰  孙爱平 《中国海洋大学学报(自然科学版)》1990,(3)

用自装的BET容量法装置测定了几种粒状钛型吸附剂的比表面及其孔径分布。测定是在常温减压下进行的。结果表明:钛型吸附剂在加铀海水中的吸铀量与样品的比表面及孔径分布有一定的内在联系。这种表面性质的研究对吸附剂的筛选有重要的指导意义。  相似文献   

Fluid flow equations governing primary oil migration as a separate phase     

Ismail Ozkaya 《Marine and Petroleum Geology》1989,6(4)

A mathematical model of primary oil migration as a separate phase out of compacting shales is presented. During burial and oil generation, source rock porosity decreases and oil saturation increases until residual oil saturation is reached. At this stage oil is expelled out by capillary and excess fluid pressure gradients. The model is a system of differential equations which relate changes in oil and water saturation in time to water and oil flow out of the source rock during burial. An additional set of equations for periods of erosion of overburden are also provided. The equations can be numerically solved by finite difference method. If oil and water flow is to be simulated during oil generation, then at each time step, changes by oil generation in oil and water saturations and porosity must be calculated. The solution procedure is briefly outlined.  相似文献   

珠江三角洲网河区水位变化趋势研究   总被引：4，自引：0，他引：4  

沈焕庭  杨清书  罗宪林  罗章仁  杨干然  欧素英 《海洋学报》2002,24(2):30-38

根据珠江三角洲网河区29个验潮站的实测验潮记录,应用傅氏变换与最平滤波器串联的方法来消除月均序列的周期波动对确定水位变化趋势的影响,由低通序列一元线性回归分析确定各站水位的变化趋势;结果表明,周期波动对确定海平面变化趋势的影响是显著的.应用经验正交函数(EOF)对网河区的水位变化场进行分解,由相互独立的时间函数和空间特征函数表征网河区区域的水位变化特征;应用时间特征函数计算区域水位的平均变化率为0.02mm/a.根据验潮站的水位变化趋势,探讨网河区水位变化与河床冲淤的关系.  相似文献   

关于Mckenzie沉积盆地初始沉降公式的修正     

毕传学  王良书 《海洋学研究》1993,11(2):9-12

根据Airy均衡原理对Mckenzie沉积盆地初始沉降公式进行了修正,并导出了公式的正确表达式 S=(a[(ρ_o-ρ_c)t_c/a(1-(aT_1t_c)/(2a))-(aT_1ρ_o)/2](1-1/β))/(ρ_o(1-aT_1)-ρ_w)  相似文献