An unsteady wave driver for narrowbanded waves: modeling nearshore circulation driven by wave groups     

Andrew B. Kennedy  James T. Kirby   《Coastal Engineering》2003,48(4):257-275

In this paper, we derive an unsteady refraction–diffraction model for narrowbanded water waves for use in computing coupled wave–current motion in the nearshore. The end result is a variable coefficient, nonlinear Schrödinger-type wave driver (describing the envelope of narrow-banded incident waves) coupled to forced nonlinear shallow water equations (describing steady or unsteady mean flows driven by the short-wave field). Comparisons with experimental data show that good accuracy can be obtained for cases of nonbreaking wave transformation. Numerical simulations show that the interaction of wave groups with longshore topographic nonuniformities generates strong edge wave resonances, providing a generating mechanism for low-order edge waves.  相似文献   

Modelling linear wave transformation induced by dissipative structures—Random waves     

R. Silva  M.A. Losada  P. Salles 《Ocean Engineering》2006,33(16):2174-2194

The relevant theory is presented and numerical results are compared with the analytical solution for the interaction of non-breaking waves with an array of vertical porous circular cylinders on a horizontal bed. The extension to the cases of unidirectional and multidirectional waves is obtained by means of a transfer function. The influence of the mechanical properties of porous structures and wave irregularity on wave transformation is analysed. Results for unidirectional and multidirectional wave spectra are compared to those obtained for regular waves. The model presented reproduces well the analytical results and provides a tool for analysing several engineering problems.  相似文献   

波群作用于垂直桩柱的峰力统计性质     

徐立论  陈志军  焦海英 《中国海洋大学学报(自然科学版)》1994,(1)

研究具有窄谱和Ｗｅｉｂｕｌｌ波高分布的波群对非线性桩柱系统作用力的统计性质。求得了桩桩的波浪峰力的各种特征值及其比值。指出这些数值不仅是阻力一惯性力参数ｂＨ的函数，也随着波群因子而变化。本文模式更具广泛性。文中给出了一系列计算图表，可从理论计算波群作用于桩柱的波浪峰力。  相似文献   

Boussinesq-type modelling using an unstructured finite element technique     

Ole R. Srensen  Hemming A. Schffer  Lars S. Srensen 《Coastal Engineering》2004,50(4):181-198

A model for solving the two-dimensional enhanced Boussinesq equations is presented. The model equations are discretised in space using an unstructured finite element technique. The standard Galerkin method with mixed interpolation is applied. The time discretisation is performed using an explicit three-step Taylor–Galerkin method. The model is extended to the surf and swash zone by inclusion of wave breaking and a moving boundary at the shoreline. Breaking is treated by an existing surface roller model, but a new procedure for the detection of the roller thickness is devised. The model is verified using four test cases and the results are compared with experimental data and results from an existing finite difference Boussinesq model.  相似文献   

Short-term shoreline changes due to cross-shore structures: a one-line numerical model     

I. O. Leont'yev   《Coastal Engineering》1997,31(1-4)

The proposed numerical model simulates the short-term temporal changes in shoreline position due to a structure interrupting the longshore sediment flux. The impacts of both the groin-type construction and underwater trench of arbitrary orientation relative to the shore are discussed. In order to estimate the sediment mass trapped by the structure, a submodel of the longshore sediment transport induced by a random wave field is developed. The contribution of the surface roller in momentum balance as well as in sediment suspension is included. The shoreline changes are computed from the equation deduced from the mass conservation. The perturbations in the longshore sediment discharge caused by a structure are assumed to concentrate within some boundary area of which the spatial scale is proportional to the structure's length until the latter is exceeded by the width of the sediment flux. It is shown in particular that the total effect of a long trench (channel) and a pier in its nearshore part results in general shoreline recession except for the vicinity of a pier. The model is tested against the laboratory data of Baidei et al. (1994) and applied to the Baidara Bay coast (Kara Sea) where a pipeline would be designed.  相似文献   

Bragg resonant reflection of carrier waves composing wave groups     

Yong-Sik Cho  Jae-Sang Jung   《Ocean Engineering》2006,33(1):82-92

Numerical analyses for the Bragg resonant reflection of carrier waves associated long waves due to sinusoidally varying seabeds are performed by using a set of coupled ordinary differential equations derived from the Boussinesq equations. The Boussinesq equations are firstly approximated with the Fourier decomposition. The coupled governing equations are then derived and used to simulate evolution of both short and long wave components. It is also found that wave groups are generated by two carrier waves with slightly different frequencies. The wave energy of the initial wave components is transferred to other harmonic components during propagation over a long distance. Evolution and reflection of both short and long waves were largely affected by nonlinearity.  相似文献   

Comparison of TOPEX/POSEIDON Altimeter Derived Wind Speed and Wave Parameters with Ocean Buoy Data in the North Indian Ocean   总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1  

Jignesh Kshatriya  Abhijit Sarkar  Raj Kumar 《Marine Geodesy》2001,24(3):131-138

Results of comparison exercises carried out between the state-of-the-art TOPEX/POSEIDON altimeter-derived ocean surface wind speed and ocean wave parameters (significant wave height and wave period) and those measured by a set of ocean data buoys in the North Indian Ocean are presented in this article. Altimeter-derived significant wave height values exhibited rms deviation as small as ±0.3 m, and surface wind speed of ±1.6 m/s. These results are found consistent with those found for the Pacific Ocean. For estimation of ocean wave period, the spectral moments-based semiempirical approach, earlier applied on GEOSAT data, was extended to TOPEX/POSEIDON. For this purpose, distributions of first four years of TOPEX/POSEIDON altimeter data and climatology over the North Indian Ocean were analyzed and a new set of coefficients generated for estimation of wave period. It is shown that wave periods thus estimated from TOPEX/POSEIDON data (for the subsequent two years), when compared with independent data set of ocean data buoys deployed in the North Indian Ocean, exhibit improved accuracy (rms ~ ±1.4 nos) over those determined earlier with GEOSAT data.  相似文献   

Third order contribution to the wave-making resistance of a ship at finite depth of water     

Shahjada Tarafder  Md 《Ocean Engineering》2007,34(1):32-44

This paper presents a potential based boundary element method for solving a nonlinear free surface flow problem for a ship moving with a uniform speed in finite depth of water. The free surface boundary condition is linearized by the systematic method of perturbation in terms of a small parameter up to third order. The surfaces are discretized into flat quadrilateral elements and the influence coefficients are calculated by Morino's analytical formula. Dawson's upstream finite difference operator is used in order to satisfy the radiation condition. The second order solution gives better result than the first or third order solution. So the present method with the second order solution can be adopted as a powerful tool for the hydrodynamic analysis of the thin ship in finite depth of water.  相似文献   

Wave group statistics from numerical simulations of a random sea     

S. Elgar  R.T. Guza  R.J. Seymour 《Applied Ocean Research》1985,7(2):93-96

Two commonly used methods of simulating random time series, given a target power spectrum, are discussed. Wave group statistics, such as the mean length of runs of high waves, produced by the different simulation schemes are compared. The target spectra used are obtained from ocean measurements, and cover a wide range of ocean conditions. For a sufficiently large number of spectral components, no significant differences are found in the wave group statistics produced by the two simulation techniques.  相似文献   

DEM高程基准转换方法及应用     

李月华  孙超 《北京测绘》2021,35(2):217-221

随着数字高程模型(DEM)在电力行业的广泛应用,电力地图需求部门对数字高程模型的要求越来越高。针对在数字高程模型生产中,电力业主方提供的立体模型高程基准不统一的问题,本文提出了基于特征数据的DEM基础转换方法。该方法在进行DEM制作过程中采用先采集特征数据,后转换特征数据高程基准的方式,实现了DEM成果的高程基准的转换,并进行了实验验证。结果表明,通过对比转换前后的DEM成果位置精度,验证了该方法的正确性。  相似文献