Short-term shoreline changes due to cross-shore structures: a one-line numerical model     

I. O. Leont'yev   《Coastal Engineering》1997,31(1-4)

The proposed numerical model simulates the short-term temporal changes in shoreline position due to a structure interrupting the longshore sediment flux. The impacts of both the groin-type construction and underwater trench of arbitrary orientation relative to the shore are discussed. In order to estimate the sediment mass trapped by the structure, a submodel of the longshore sediment transport induced by a random wave field is developed. The contribution of the surface roller in momentum balance as well as in sediment suspension is included. The shoreline changes are computed from the equation deduced from the mass conservation. The perturbations in the longshore sediment discharge caused by a structure are assumed to concentrate within some boundary area of which the spatial scale is proportional to the structure's length until the latter is exceeded by the width of the sediment flux. It is shown in particular that the total effect of a long trench (channel) and a pier in its nearshore part results in general shoreline recession except for the vicinity of a pier. The model is tested against the laboratory data of Baidei et al. (1994) and applied to the Baidara Bay coast (Kara Sea) where a pipeline would be designed.  相似文献   

用Matlab中的Neural Network Toolbox仿真赤道东太平洋SST的预报模型   总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2  

张韧  蒋国荣  李妍 《海洋科学》2001,25(2):38-42

基于ＮＣＥＰ／ＮＣＡＲ再分析资料和ＣＯＡＤＳ海洋资料中的全球月平均海平面气压场、８５０hPa纬向风场及海洋温度场，利用Ｍatlab中的Ｎeural Network Toolbox仿真环境和ＢＰ模型改进算法比较准确地仿真和反演出了南方涛动指数、赤道纬向风指数和滞后的赤道东太平洋海温之间的动力结构和预报模型。该模型具有很好的拟合精度和可行的预报效果。可在一定时效内预测赤道东太平洋月平均海温的变化趋势。由于所建系统是具有直接因果关系的预报模型，因此不仅可直接用于预测，而且可有效避免类拟非线性微分方程组在积分过程中由于对初值敏感性而可能产生的对预报结果的不确定性。  相似文献   

Bragg resonant reflection of carrier waves composing wave groups     

Yong-Sik Cho  Jae-Sang Jung   《Ocean Engineering》2006,33(1):82-92

Numerical analyses for the Bragg resonant reflection of carrier waves associated long waves due to sinusoidally varying seabeds are performed by using a set of coupled ordinary differential equations derived from the Boussinesq equations. The Boussinesq equations are firstly approximated with the Fourier decomposition. The coupled governing equations are then derived and used to simulate evolution of both short and long wave components. It is also found that wave groups are generated by two carrier waves with slightly different frequencies. The wave energy of the initial wave components is transferred to other harmonic components during propagation over a long distance. Evolution and reflection of both short and long waves were largely affected by nonlinearity.  相似文献   

Th sorption and export models in the water column: A review   总被引：2，自引：3，他引：2  

Nicolas Savoye  Claudia Benitez-Nelson  Adrian B. Burd  J. Kirk Cochran  Matthew Charette  Ken O. Buesseler  George A. Jackson  Matthieu Roy-Barman  Sabine Schmidt  Marc Elskens 《Marine Chemistry》2006,100(3-4):234

Over the past few decades, the radioisotope pair of ²³⁸U / ²³⁴Th has been widely and increasingly used to describe particle dynamics and particle export fluxes in a variety of aquatic systems. The present paper is one of five review articles dedicated to ²³⁴Th. It is focused on the models associated with ²³⁴Th whereas the companion papers (same issue) are focused on present and future methodologies and techniques (Rutgers van der Loeff et al.), C / ²³⁴Th ratios (Buesseler et al.), ²³⁴Th speciation (Santschi et al.) and present and future applications of ²³⁴Th [Waples, J.T., Benitez-Nelson, C.R., Savoye, N., Rutgers van der Loeff, M., Baskaran, M., Gustafsson, Ö., this issue. An Introduction to the application and future use of ²³⁴Th in aquatic systems. Marine Chemistry, FATE special issue]. In this paper, we review current ²³⁴Th scavenging models and discuss the relative importance of the non-steady state and physical terms associated with the most commonly used model to estimate ²³⁴Th flux. Based on this discussion we recommend that for future work the use of models should be accompanied by a discussion of the effect that model and data uncertainty have on the model results. We also suggest that future field work incorporate repeat occupations of sample sites on time scales of 1–4 weeks in order to evaluate steady state versus non-steady state estimates of ²³⁴Th export, especially during high flux events (> ca. 800 dpm m^− 2 d^− 1). Finally, knowledge of the physical oceanography of the study area is essential, particularly in ocean margins and in areas of established upwelling (e.g., Equatorial Pacific). These suggestions will greatly enhance the application of ²³⁴Th as a tracer of particle dynamics and flux in more complicated regimes.  相似文献   

Comparison of TOPEX/POSEIDON Altimeter Derived Wind Speed and Wave Parameters with Ocean Buoy Data in the North Indian Ocean   总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1  

Jignesh Kshatriya  Abhijit Sarkar  Raj Kumar 《Marine Geodesy》2001,24(3):131-138

Results of comparison exercises carried out between the state-of-the-art TOPEX/POSEIDON altimeter-derived ocean surface wind speed and ocean wave parameters (significant wave height and wave period) and those measured by a set of ocean data buoys in the North Indian Ocean are presented in this article. Altimeter-derived significant wave height values exhibited rms deviation as small as ±0.3 m, and surface wind speed of ±1.6 m/s. These results are found consistent with those found for the Pacific Ocean. For estimation of ocean wave period, the spectral moments-based semiempirical approach, earlier applied on GEOSAT data, was extended to TOPEX/POSEIDON. For this purpose, distributions of first four years of TOPEX/POSEIDON altimeter data and climatology over the North Indian Ocean were analyzed and a new set of coefficients generated for estimation of wave period. It is shown that wave periods thus estimated from TOPEX/POSEIDON data (for the subsequent two years), when compared with independent data set of ocean data buoys deployed in the North Indian Ocean, exhibit improved accuracy (rms ~ ±1.4 nos) over those determined earlier with GEOSAT data.  相似文献   

一种新的台风风场分布模式     

陈孔沫 《海洋科学》1990,14(3):1-5

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海州湾淤泥质海滩剖面堆积过程的计算模式     

樊社军  虞志英  金镠 《海洋与湖沼》1997,28(4):411-418

分别于1986年12月和1985年3月1日—1987年3月1日在海州湾进行了波浪和含沙量观测，运用所获资料以及本区长期水文、地形资料，采用流体力学、沉积学和泥沙运动力学相结合的研究方法，建立了海州湾淤泥质海滩剖面堆积过程的二维计算模式。结果表明，在堆积型淤泥质海滩，由于浮泥的经常性存在，使波浪急剧衰减，其对岸滩的作用甚为微弱，潮流成为塑造淤泥质海滩的主要动力，岸滩在淤涨过程中，在平均高潮位厂沿和平均低潮位附近出现两个凸点，上一个凸点外推速率大于下一个凸点，潮下带变化缓慢。  相似文献   

Third order contribution to the wave-making resistance of a ship at finite depth of water     

Shahjada Tarafder  Md 《Ocean Engineering》2007,34(1):32-44

This paper presents a potential based boundary element method for solving a nonlinear free surface flow problem for a ship moving with a uniform speed in finite depth of water. The free surface boundary condition is linearized by the systematic method of perturbation in terms of a small parameter up to third order. The surfaces are discretized into flat quadrilateral elements and the influence coefficients are calculated by Morino's analytical formula. Dawson's upstream finite difference operator is used in order to satisfy the radiation condition. The second order solution gives better result than the first or third order solution. So the present method with the second order solution can be adopted as a powerful tool for the hydrodynamic analysis of the thin ship in finite depth of water.  相似文献   

Wave group statistics from numerical simulations of a random sea     

S. Elgar  R.T. Guza  R.J. Seymour 《Applied Ocean Research》1985,7(2):93-96

Two commonly used methods of simulating random time series, given a target power spectrum, are discussed. Wave group statistics, such as the mean length of runs of high waves, produced by the different simulation schemes are compared. The target spectra used are obtained from ocean measurements, and cover a wide range of ocean conditions. For a sufficiently large number of spectral components, no significant differences are found in the wave group statistics produced by the two simulation techniques.  相似文献   

Numerical simulation of migration–accumulation of oil resources     

Yirang Yuan  Yuji Han 《Computational Geosciences》2008,12(2):153-162

Numerical simulation of oil migration and accumulation is to describe the history of oil migration and accumulation in basin evolution. It is of great value to the evaluation of oil resources and to the determination of the location and amount of oil deposits. This thesis discusses the characteristics of petroleum geology and permeation fluid mechanics. For the three-dimensional problems of Dongying hollow of Shengli Petroleum Oil Field, it puts forward a new model and a kind of modified method of upwind finite difference fractional steps implicit interactive scheme. For the famous hydraulic experiment of secondary migration–accumulation, the numerical simulation test has been done, and both the computational and experimental results are basically identical. For the actual problem of Dongying hollow, the numerical simulation test and the actual conditions are basically coincident. Thus, the well-known problem has been solved.  相似文献