Examination of empirical formulas for wave shoaling and breaking on steep slopes   总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1  

Ching-Piao Tsai  Hong-Bin Chen  Hwung-Hweng Hwung  Ming-Jen Huang 《Ocean Engineering》2005,32(3-4):469-483

Estimation of the wave height transformation of shoaling and breaking is essential for the nearshore hydrodynamics and the design of coastal structures. Many empirical formulas have been well recognized to the wave height transformation, but most of them were only applicable for gentle slopes. This paper reports the experimental results of wave shoaling and breaking over the steep slopes to examine the applicability of the previous empirical formulas. Two steep bottom slopes of 1/3 and 1/5, and one gentle slope of 1/10 were conducted in the present experiments. Experimental results show that the shoaling distance of steep slopes become short and the surface waves may be partially reflected from the steep bottom, thus the estimation of wave shoaling using the well-known previous formula did not conform completely to the experimental results. The previous empirical formulas for the wave breaking criteria were also examined, and the modified equations to the steep beaches were proposed in this work. A numerical model was finally adopted to calculate the wave height transformation in the surf zone by introducing the modified breaking index.  相似文献   

The nonlinear hydrodynamic model for simulating a ship steering in waves with autopilot system     

Ming-Chung Fang  Jhih-Hong Luo 《Ocean Engineering》2005,32(11-12):1486-1502

In the paper, a hydrodynamic numerical model including wave effect is developed to simulate ship autopilot systems by using the time domain analysis. The PD controller and the sliding mode controller are adopted as the autopilot systems. The differences of simulation results between two controllers are analyzed by cost function composed of heading angle error and rudder deflection, either in calm water or in waves. The results in calm water show that both controllers are tracking well for the desired route with the similar cost function value by tuning the key design parameters. However, the course tracking ability of the controller using sliding mode in waves is generally better even the cost function value is similar.  相似文献   

Analysis of seabed instability using element free Galerkin method     

J.G. Wang  M.R. Karim  P.Z. Lin 《Ocean Engineering》2007,34(2):247-260

Wave-induced seabed instability, either momentary liquefaction or shear failure, is an important topic in ocean and coastal engineering. Many factors, such as seabed properties and wave parameters, affect the seabed instability. A non-dimensional parameter is proposed in this paper to evaluate the occurrence of momentary liquefaction. This parameter includes the properties of the soil and the wave. The determination of the wave-induced liquefaction depth is also suggested based on this non-dimensional parameter. As an example, a two-dimensional seabed with finite thickness is numerically treated with the EFGM meshless method developed early for wave-induced seabed responses. Parametric study is carried out to investigate the effect of wavelength, compressibility of pore fluid, permeability and stiffness of porous media, and variable stiffness with depth on the seabed response with three criteria for liquefaction. It is found that this non-dimensional parameter is a good index for identifying the momentary liquefaction qualitatively, and the criterion of liquefaction with seepage force can be used to predict the deepest liquefaction depth.  相似文献   

Influence of large-diameter pipe pile driving on surrounding marine soils and adjacent submarine pipelines     

Jinzhong Dou  Zhong-Jie Zhang 《Marine Georesources & Geotechnology》2021,39(1):15-33

Abstract

With the large-scale development and utilization of ocean resources and space, it is inevitable to encounter existing submarine facilities in pile driving areas, which necessitates a safety assessment. In this article, by referring to a wharf renovation project as a reference, the surrounding soil response and buried pipe deformation during pile driving in a near-shore submarine environment are investigated by three-dimensional (3D) numerical models that consider the pore water effect. Numerical studies are carried out in two different series: one is a case of a single pile focusing on the effect of the minimum plane distance of the pile–pipe, and the other is a case of double piles focusing on the effect of the pile spacing.  相似文献   

海浪周期关系的研究   总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2  

李瑞丽 《海洋湖沼通报》2007,(2):13-18

本文利用现场观测数据、实验室风浪槽观测数据和由文氏谱及JONSWAP谱生成的模拟数据,研究了有效周期与谱平均周期、谱峰周期与谱平均周期以及有效周期与谱峰周期的关系,通过数据拟合给出了相应的关系式.研究发现,有效周期与由谱的负阶矩计算的平均周期之间的关系更加稳定,并且有效周期与负2阶矩计算的平均周期几乎相等,均代表了海浪主导波对海浪平均周期的贡献.  相似文献   

Wave reflection from partially perforated-wall caisson breakwater   总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2  

Kyung-Duck Suh  Jae Kil Park  Woo Sun Park   《Ocean Engineering》2006,33(2):264-280

In 1995, Suh and Park developed a numerical model that computes the reflection of regular waves from a fully perforated-wall caisson breakwater. This paper describes how to apply this model to a partially perforated-wall caisson and irregular waves. To examine the performance of the model, existing experimental data are used for regular waves, while a laboratory experiment is conducted in this study for irregular waves. The numerical model based on a linear wave theory tends to over-predict the reflection coefficient of regular waves as the wave nonlinearity increases, but such an over-prediction is not observed in the case of irregular waves. For both regular and irregular waves, the numerical model slightly over- and under-predicts the reflection coefficients at larger and smaller values, respectively, because the model neglects the evanescent waves near the breakwater.  相似文献   

An unsteady wave driver for narrowbanded waves: modeling nearshore circulation driven by wave groups     

Andrew B. Kennedy  James T. Kirby   《Coastal Engineering》2003,48(4):257-275

In this paper, we derive an unsteady refraction–diffraction model for narrowbanded water waves for use in computing coupled wave–current motion in the nearshore. The end result is a variable coefficient, nonlinear Schrödinger-type wave driver (describing the envelope of narrow-banded incident waves) coupled to forced nonlinear shallow water equations (describing steady or unsteady mean flows driven by the short-wave field). Comparisons with experimental data show that good accuracy can be obtained for cases of nonbreaking wave transformation. Numerical simulations show that the interaction of wave groups with longshore topographic nonuniformities generates strong edge wave resonances, providing a generating mechanism for low-order edge waves.  相似文献   

Modelling linear wave transformation induced by dissipative structures—Random waves     

R. Silva  M.A. Losada  P. Salles 《Ocean Engineering》2006,33(16):2174-2194

The relevant theory is presented and numerical results are compared with the analytical solution for the interaction of non-breaking waves with an array of vertical porous circular cylinders on a horizontal bed. The extension to the cases of unidirectional and multidirectional waves is obtained by means of a transfer function. The influence of the mechanical properties of porous structures and wave irregularity on wave transformation is analysed. Results for unidirectional and multidirectional wave spectra are compared to those obtained for regular waves. The model presented reproduces well the analytical results and provides a tool for analysing several engineering problems.  相似文献   

波群作用于垂直桩柱的峰力统计性质     

徐立论  陈志军  焦海英 《中国海洋大学学报(自然科学版)》1994,(1)

研究具有窄谱和Ｗｅｉｂｕｌｌ波高分布的波群对非线性桩柱系统作用力的统计性质。求得了桩桩的波浪峰力的各种特征值及其比值。指出这些数值不仅是阻力一惯性力参数ｂＨ的函数，也随着波群因子而变化。本文模式更具广泛性。文中给出了一系列计算图表，可从理论计算波群作用于桩柱的波浪峰力。  相似文献   

Boussinesq-type modelling using an unstructured finite element technique     

Ole R. Srensen  Hemming A. Schffer  Lars S. Srensen 《Coastal Engineering》2004,50(4):181-198

A model for solving the two-dimensional enhanced Boussinesq equations is presented. The model equations are discretised in space using an unstructured finite element technique. The standard Galerkin method with mixed interpolation is applied. The time discretisation is performed using an explicit three-step Taylor–Galerkin method. The model is extended to the surf and swash zone by inclusion of wave breaking and a moving boundary at the shoreline. Breaking is treated by an existing surface roller model, but a new procedure for the detection of the roller thickness is devised. The model is verified using four test cases and the results are compared with experimental data and results from an existing finite difference Boussinesq model.  相似文献