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951.
The purpose of this work is to a present a numerical model to solve a set of modified Boussinesq equations to analyse nonlinear resonance of semi-enclosed water bodies. The equations are solved on a finite element unstructured grid in order to achieve an optimal mesh resolution with the local geometry. The model is able to simulate long time lapses and realistic forcing in real bathymetries with a reasonable computational cost. To validate the numerical results, a set of experiments was carried out in a physical model of two adjacent elongated basins. Comparisons between numerical and experimental results for different geometries and nonlinear conditions show that the model is able to simulate with an excellent agreement the transient nonlinear resonant process.  相似文献   
952.
A parametric study was carried out to investigate the hydrodynamics of a cylindrical wave energy absorber. Established methods of hydrodynamic analysis were applied to the case of a damped vertically oriented cylinder pivoted near the sea floor in intermediate depth water. The simple geometry provides a canonical reference for more complex structure shapes and configurations that may be considered for either wave energy conversion or wave energy absorption. The study makes use of the relative velocity Morison equation, with force coefficients derived from radiation and diffraction theory. Viscous effects were accounted for by including a drag term with an empirically derived coefficient, CD. A non-linear first-order formulation was used to calculate the cylinder motion response in regular waves. It was found that the non-linear drag term, which is often neglected in studies on wave energy conversion, has a large effect on performance. Results from the study suggest a set of design criteria based on Keulegan–Carpenter (KC) number, ratio of cylinder radius to water depth (a/h), and ratio of water depth to wavelength (h/L). Respectively, these parameters account for viscous, wave radiation, and water depth effects, and optimal ranges are provided.  相似文献   
953.
The paper presents the results from model scale experiments on the study of forces in the moorings of horizontally interlaced, multi-layered, moored floating pipe breakwaters. The studies are conducted with breakwater models having three layers subjected to waves of steepness Hi/L (Hi is the incident wave height and L the wavelength) varying from 0.0066 to 0.0464, relative width W/L (W is the width of breakwater) varying from 0.4 to 2.65, and relative spacing S/D (S is the spacing of pipes and D the diameter of pipe) of 2 and 4. The variation of measured normalized mooring forces on the seaward side and leeward side are analyzed by plotting non-dimensional graphs depicting f/γW2 (f is the force in the mooring per unit length of the breakwater, γ the weight density of sea water) as a function W/L for various values of Hi/d (d is the depth of water). It is found that the force in the seaward side mooring increases with an increase in Hi/L for d/W values ranging between 0.081 and 0.276. The experimental results also reveal that the forces in the seaward side mooring decrease as W/L increases, up to a value of W/L=1.3, and then increases with an increase in W/L. It is also observed that the wave attenuation characteristics of breakwater model with relative spacing of 4 is better than that of the model with relative spacing of 2. The maximum force in the seaward side mooring for model with S/D=4 is lower compared to that for the breakwater model with S/D=2. A multivariate non-linear regression analysis has been carried out for the data on mooring forces for the seaside and leeside.  相似文献   
954.
Propagation of torsional waves along isothermal and initially-untwisted magnetic-flux tubes embedded in the solar atmosphere is studied analytically. Conditions for wave propagation along thin and wide magnetic-flux tubes are determined, and it is shown that the propagation along thin tubes is cutoff free; however, for wide tubes the propagation is affected by a cutoff frequency. A method to determine the cutoff frequency is presented and applied to a specific model of solar magnetic flux tubes. An interesting result is that the cutoff frequency is a local quantity in the model and that its value at a given height determines the frequency that torsional tube waves must have to propagate at this height.  相似文献   
955.
To provide coastal engineers and scientists with a detailed inter-comparison of widely used parametric wave transformation models, several models are tested and calibrated with extensive observations from six field experiments on barred and unbarred beaches. Using previously calibrated (“default”) values of a free parameter γ, all models predict the observations reasonably well (median root-mean-square wave height errors are between 10% and 20%) at all field sites. Model errors can be reduced by roughly 50% by tuning γ for each data record. No tuned or default model provides the best predictions for all data records or at all experiments. Tuned γ differ for the different models and experiments, but in all cases γ increases as the hyperbolic tangent of the deep-water wave height, Ho. Data from two experiments are used to estimate empirical, universal curves for γ based on Ho. Using the new parameterization, all models have similar accuracy, and usually show increased skill relative to using default γ.  相似文献   
956.
A semi-analytical nonlinear wavemaker model is derived to predict the generation and propagation of transient nonlinear waves in a wave flume. The solution is very efficient and is achieved by applying eigenfunction expansions and FFT. The model is applied to study the effect of the wavemaker and its motion on the generation and propagation of nonlinear waves. The results indicate that the linear wavemaker theory may be applied to predict only the generation of waves of low steepness for which the nonlinear terms in the kinematic wavemaker boundary condition and free-surface boundary conditions are of secondary importance. For waves of moderate steepness and steep waves these nonlinear terms have substantial effects on wave profile and wave spectrum just after the wavemaker. A wave spectrum corresponding to a sinusoidally moving wavemaker possesses a multi-peak form with substantial nonlinear components, which disturbs or may even exclude physical modeling in wave flumes. The analysis shows that the widely recognized weakly nonlinear wavemaker theory may only be applied to describe the generation and propagation of waves of low steepness. This is subject to further restrictions in shallow and deep waters because the kinematic wavemaker boundary condition as well as the nonlinear interaction of wave components and the evolution of wave energy spectrum is not properly described by weakly nonlinear wavemaker theory. Laboratory experiments were conducted in a wave flume to verify the nonlinear wavemaker model. The comparisons show a reasonable agreement between predicted and measured free-surface elevation and the corresponding amplitudes of Fourier series. A reasonable agreement between theoretical results and experimental data is observed even for fairly steep waves.  相似文献   
957.
Wetlands protect mainland areas from erosion and damage by damping waves. Yet, this critical role of wetland is not fully understood at present, and a means for reliably determining wave damping by vegetation in engineering practice is not yet available. Laboratory experiments were conducted to measure wave attenuation resulting from synthetic emergent and nearly emergent wetland vegetation under a range of wave conditions and plant stem densities. The laboratory data were analyzed using linear wave theory to quantify bulk drag coefficients and with a nonlinear Boussinesq model to determine numerical friction factors to better represent wetland vegetation in engineering analysis.  相似文献   
958.
The effect of the shear and normal stress free surface boundary conditions on the laminar flow induced by wave propagation is discussed. The approximate form of the boundary conditions, as used by (Lin, P., Zhang, W., 2008. Numerical simulation of wave-induced laminar boundary layers. Coast. Eng. 55, 400–408), is valid only when the free surface slope is mild.  相似文献   
959.
A simple model is developed to study the inception of sheet flow in oscillatory flow based on the available experimental data. The inception of sheet flow in oscillatory flow is well defined by the simple model: A/d=KA2ω/ν+B, where A is the semi-excursion of wave orbital motion near the bed, d is the grain size, ω is the angular frequency, ν is the kinematic viscosity of water, and K and B are the coefficients and dependent on sediment properties only. The inception velocity of sheet flow derived from the model is shown to be the function of grain size d, oscillatory period T and specific sediment density s. For a given sediment, the inception velocity is found to increase sharply initially with T and then approach a constant at T>6.0 s. The present model is quite simple and gives good agreement with the available experimental data.  相似文献   
960.
王文福 《天文学报》1995,36(2):225-227
本文讨论了超弦理论中的宇宙波函数,使用Vilenkin的边界条件,我们得到了膨胀子场D的值给定时宇宙标度因子a的几率分布。我们还得到了宇宙自发成核时,经典宇宙的标度因子的最小值为Planck长度的数量级,这说明量子效应能阻止宇宙塌缩到奇点。  相似文献   
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