Boussinesq-type modelling using an unstructured finite element technique     

Ole R. Srensen  Hemming A. Schffer  Lars S. Srensen 《Coastal Engineering》2004,50(4):181-198

A model for solving the two-dimensional enhanced Boussinesq equations is presented. The model equations are discretised in space using an unstructured finite element technique. The standard Galerkin method with mixed interpolation is applied. The time discretisation is performed using an explicit three-step Taylor–Galerkin method. The model is extended to the surf and swash zone by inclusion of wave breaking and a moving boundary at the shoreline. Breaking is treated by an existing surface roller model, but a new procedure for the detection of the roller thickness is devised. The model is verified using four test cases and the results are compared with experimental data and results from an existing finite difference Boussinesq model.  相似文献   

Short-term shoreline changes due to cross-shore structures: a one-line numerical model     

I. O. Leont'yev   《Coastal Engineering》1997,31(1-4)

The proposed numerical model simulates the short-term temporal changes in shoreline position due to a structure interrupting the longshore sediment flux. The impacts of both the groin-type construction and underwater trench of arbitrary orientation relative to the shore are discussed. In order to estimate the sediment mass trapped by the structure, a submodel of the longshore sediment transport induced by a random wave field is developed. The contribution of the surface roller in momentum balance as well as in sediment suspension is included. The shoreline changes are computed from the equation deduced from the mass conservation. The perturbations in the longshore sediment discharge caused by a structure are assumed to concentrate within some boundary area of which the spatial scale is proportional to the structure's length until the latter is exceeded by the width of the sediment flux. It is shown in particular that the total effect of a long trench (channel) and a pier in its nearshore part results in general shoreline recession except for the vicinity of a pier. The model is tested against the laboratory data of Baidei et al. (1994) and applied to the Baidara Bay coast (Kara Sea) where a pipeline would be designed.  相似文献   

Bragg resonant reflection of carrier waves composing wave groups     

Yong-Sik Cho  Jae-Sang Jung   《Ocean Engineering》2006,33(1):82-92

Numerical analyses for the Bragg resonant reflection of carrier waves associated long waves due to sinusoidally varying seabeds are performed by using a set of coupled ordinary differential equations derived from the Boussinesq equations. The Boussinesq equations are firstly approximated with the Fourier decomposition. The coupled governing equations are then derived and used to simulate evolution of both short and long wave components. It is also found that wave groups are generated by two carrier waves with slightly different frequencies. The wave energy of the initial wave components is transferred to other harmonic components during propagation over a long distance. Evolution and reflection of both short and long waves were largely affected by nonlinearity.  相似文献   

Comparison of TOPEX/POSEIDON Altimeter Derived Wind Speed and Wave Parameters with Ocean Buoy Data in the North Indian Ocean   总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1  

Jignesh Kshatriya  Abhijit Sarkar  Raj Kumar 《Marine Geodesy》2001,24(3):131-138

Results of comparison exercises carried out between the state-of-the-art TOPEX/POSEIDON altimeter-derived ocean surface wind speed and ocean wave parameters (significant wave height and wave period) and those measured by a set of ocean data buoys in the North Indian Ocean are presented in this article. Altimeter-derived significant wave height values exhibited rms deviation as small as ±0.3 m, and surface wind speed of ±1.6 m/s. These results are found consistent with those found for the Pacific Ocean. For estimation of ocean wave period, the spectral moments-based semiempirical approach, earlier applied on GEOSAT data, was extended to TOPEX/POSEIDON. For this purpose, distributions of first four years of TOPEX/POSEIDON altimeter data and climatology over the North Indian Ocean were analyzed and a new set of coefficients generated for estimation of wave period. It is shown that wave periods thus estimated from TOPEX/POSEIDON data (for the subsequent two years), when compared with independent data set of ocean data buoys deployed in the North Indian Ocean, exhibit improved accuracy (rms ~ ±1.4 nos) over those determined earlier with GEOSAT data.  相似文献   

Third order contribution to the wave-making resistance of a ship at finite depth of water     

Shahjada Tarafder  Md 《Ocean Engineering》2007,34(1):32-44

This paper presents a potential based boundary element method for solving a nonlinear free surface flow problem for a ship moving with a uniform speed in finite depth of water. The free surface boundary condition is linearized by the systematic method of perturbation in terms of a small parameter up to third order. The surfaces are discretized into flat quadrilateral elements and the influence coefficients are calculated by Morino's analytical formula. Dawson's upstream finite difference operator is used in order to satisfy the radiation condition. The second order solution gives better result than the first or third order solution. So the present method with the second order solution can be adopted as a powerful tool for the hydrodynamic analysis of the thin ship in finite depth of water.  相似文献   

Wave group statistics from numerical simulations of a random sea     

S. Elgar  R.T. Guza  R.J. Seymour 《Applied Ocean Research》1985,7(2):93-96

Two commonly used methods of simulating random time series, given a target power spectrum, are discussed. Wave group statistics, such as the mean length of runs of high waves, produced by the different simulation schemes are compared. The target spectra used are obtained from ocean measurements, and cover a wide range of ocean conditions. For a sufficiently large number of spectral components, no significant differences are found in the wave group statistics produced by the two simulation techniques.  相似文献   

黑海西北部冷泉碳酸盐岩的沉积岩石学特征及氧化还原条件的稀土元素地球化学示踪   总被引：3，自引：1，他引：2  

冯东  陈多福 《现代地质》2008,22(3):390-396

黑海西北部罗马尼亚大陆架(水深120m)和乌克兰陆坡(水深190m)发育冷泉碳酸盐岩结壳。XRD测试表明此结壳主要由高镁方解石和文石组成。结壳中与渗漏系统微生物活动有关的凝块和葡萄状文石等特殊的沉积组构非常发育。冷泉碳酸盐岩酸可溶部分(碳酸盐岩相矿物)的稀土元素含量很低(0.068×10-6~2.817×10-6),稀土元素页岩标准化配分模式显示罗马尼亚大陆架冷泉碳酸盐岩具有明显的Ce负异常,乌克兰陆坡冷泉碳酸盐岩具Ce的正异常,表明它们是分别在氧化和还原环境中沉积的。稀土元素和V、Cd和U等微量元素的含量在泥晶中最高,亮晶中最低,可能反映成岩过程对元素含量有控制作用。  相似文献   

黔北后槽下石炭统含铝岩系的粘土矿物     

杨光龙  朱德彬  王林  潘家州 《华南地质与矿产》2008,(4):8-13

为揭示黔北下石炭统含铝岩系的沉积环境,本文利用贵州遵义县后槽TC718剖面系统试样的粘土矿物进行x一射线衍射测试及特征分析。含铝岩系粘土岩与下伏桐梓组粘土页岩在矿物组合和成分上均有明显的差异,水云母的结晶度指数、开形指数在剖面纵向上有三个变化拐点：一是含铝岩系与下伏桐梓组粘土页岩分界处;二是含铝岩系上、下段的接触带;三是含铝岩系顶部含炭质粘土岩出现的临界面。其变化特征表明,本区下石炭统含铝岩系粘土岩段为海相或海陆过渡相,铝质岩段为残积一坡积相,顶部为大陆湖沼相;下奥陶统桐梓组页岩段为海相。  相似文献   

Quartz deformation mechanisms during Barrovian metamorphism: Implications from crystallographic orientation of different generations of quartz in pelites     

A. Rahimi-Chakdel  A.P. Boyle  D.J. Prior 《Tectonophysics》2006,427(1-4):15

The behaviour of quartz during metamorphism is studied based on two case studies from the Barrovian terrains of Sulitjelma in arctic Scandinavia and Loch Tay in the Central Highlands Dalradian of Scotland. Both terrains preserve evidence for metamorphism in pelites involving nucleation and growth of garnet at different times in the deformation history. Data are presented on the size, shape and crystallographic orientation of quartz preserved as inclusions in garnet and as grains in the surrounding matrix. While quartz-grains remain small and dispersed between mica grains, deformation appears to be dominated by grain-boundary sliding accommodated by dissolution–precipitation. At amphibolite facies, textural coarsening occurs by dissolution of small quartz grains and growth of larger quartz grains, coupled with segregation of quartz from mica. As a result, quartz deforms by dislocation creep, developing crystallographic preferred orientations (CPO) consistent with both coaxial and non-coaxial strain. Quartz CPOs with <0001> axes lying parallel to foliation and stretching direction are commonly developed, and best explained by mechanical rotation of inequant (detrital?) quartz grains. There is no evidence for selective entrapment of quartz inclusions in garnet on the basis of quartz crystallographic orientation.  相似文献   

Characterization of cristobalite in ash and dome rock from the Soufriere Hills volcano, Montserrat： Implications for respiratory health hazards     

Ben J. Williamson Claire J. Horwell 《中国地球化学学报》2006,25(B08):224-225

A link between the inhalation of respirable silicas （SiO2） and respiratory diseases such as silicosis is widely recognized. Ash from dome collapse eruptions on Montserrat has been found to contain high levels （〉20%） of silicas in the form of cristobalite, tridymite, quartz and/or amorphous silica. The toxicity of these silica polymorphs varies widely. Cristobalite and quartz （tridymite less well established） are viewed as carcinogenic to humans whereas amorphous silica generally shows a reduced biological response. In assessing the potential health effects of volcanic ash particulates it is vital to determine the types and concentration of silicas as well as their size （respirable fraction）, shape and surface properties. The aim of this study is to develop methods to assess potentially toxic respirable airborne silicas in the dome collapse ash （applicable to a range of ash types） and to develop a model to predict the levels and types of respirable silicas from future eruptions. The model is being developed by comparing dome rock with related ash from a series of previous eruption events. Mineralogical assessment using conventional scanning X-ray diffraction （XRD） was hampered by difficulties in differentiating characteristic peaks for cristobalite and tridymite in complex multi-component ash samples （containing high levels of plagioclase）. These difficulties have been largely overcome using an Enraf-Nonius PDS120 diffractometer with curved （120 degrees 20） position sensitive detector （PSD）. The determination of size, shape and elemental characteristics of ash particulate and dome rock samples has been carried out using automated analytical scanning electron microscopy. The quantification of mineral proportions using PSD-XRD was highly successful with an accuracy of 1 to 2 wt%. However, the determination of phase proportions using automated analytical SEM was problematic due to scattering effects and the multiphase nature of many of the particles.  相似文献