Run-up of tsunamis and long waves in terms of surf-similarity     

Per A. Madsen  David R. Fuhrman 《Coastal Engineering》2008

In this paper we review and re-examine the classical analytical solutions for run-up of periodic long waves on an infinitely long slope as well as on a finite slope attached to a flat bottom. Both cases provide simple expressions for the maximum run-up and the associated flow velocity in terms of the surf-similarity parameter and the amplitude to depth ratio determined at some offshore location. We use the analytical expressions to analyze the impact of tsunamis on beaches and relate the discussion to the recent Indian Ocean tsunami from December 26, 2004. An important conclusion is that extreme run-up combined with extreme flow velocities occurs for surf-similarity parameters of the order 3–6, and for typical tsunami wave periods this requires relatively mild beach slopes. Next, we compare the theoretical solutions to measured run-up of breaking and non-breaking irregular waves on steep impermeable slopes. For the non-breaking waves, the theoretical curves turn out to be superior to state-of-the-art empirical estimates. Finally, we compare the theoretical solutions with numerical results obtained with a high-order Boussinesq-type method, and generally obtain an excellent agreement.  相似文献   

Shock drift electron acceleration and generation of waves     

M. Karlický  M. Vandas   《Planetary and Space Science》2007,55(15):2336-2339

An analytically derived distribution function of reflected and accelerated electrons at a nearly perpendicular shock is presented. Then this distribution in a simplified form is introduced into a 1.5-D relativistic electromagnetic particle-in-cell (PIC) model and a generation of waves is studied. Numerical modeling shows not only a generation of Langmuir and high-frequency electromagnetic waves as expected, but also an efficient generation of whistler waves. Their role in emission processes of type II solar radio bursts is discussed.  相似文献   

Instabilities in rotating relativistic stars driven by viscosity     

Motoyuki Saijo  Eric Gourgoulhon 《Astrophysics and Space Science》2007,308(1-4):481-485

We investigate the instability driven by viscosity in rotating relativistic stars by means of an iterative approach. We focus on polytropic rotating equilibrium stars and impose an m=2 perturbation in the lapse. We vary both the stiffness of the equation of state and the compactness of the star to study these factors on the critical value T/W for the instability. For a rigidly rotating star, the criterion T/W, where T is the rotational kinetic energy and W the gravitational binding energy, mainly depends on the compactness of the star and takes values around 0.13–0.16, which slightly differ from that of Newtonian incompressible stars (∼0.14). For differentially rotating stars, the critical value of T/W is found to span the range 0.17–0.25. The value is significantly larger than in the rigidly rotating case with the same compactness of the star. Finally we discuss the possibility of detecting gravitational waves from viscosity-driven instabilities using ground-based interferometers.   相似文献   

A study of SAR remote sensing of internal solitary waves in the north of the South China Sea: Ⅱ. Simulation of SAR signatures of internal solitary waves   总被引：4，自引：0，他引：4  

FAN Zhisong  ZHANG Yuanling  SONG Mei 《海洋学报(英文版)》2008,27(5):36-48

A new model developed from the full-spectrum model of Lyzenga and Bennett （ 1988 ） is built up by us preliminarily through considering the impact of the ocean surface mixed layer turbulence on SAR remote sensing of internal solitary waves. In the partial differential equation of the action spectral density of the surface gravity-capillary waves the source function representing the contribution of the turbulence is added besides the usual source function representing the contribution of the wind. The source function is determined by applying the κ - ε model and adopting the Nasmyth spectrum of oceanic turbulence （ Nasmyth, 1970; Oakey, 1982; Fan, 2002） on the basis of the previous simulation results of internal tide transformation obtained in the companion paper （Fan et al. ,2008）. Either under relatively high wind speed, or under low wind speed, our model predicts significant large modulations of radar backscatter at all three bands （ L, C and X bands） for both VV and HH polarization. These results prove that considering the impact of ocean surface mixed layer turbulence on SAR remote sensing of internal solitary waves is reasonable and appropriate for settlement of the well-known problem of contemporary radar imaging models.  相似文献   

Hyperbolic Mild Slope Equations with Inclusion of Amplitude Dispersion Effect： Regular Waves   总被引：4，自引：2，他引：2  

金红  邹志利 《中国海洋工程》2008,22(3):431-444

A new form of hyperbolic mild slope equations is derived with the inclusion of the amphtude dispersion of nonlinear waves. The effects of including the amplitude dispersion effect on the wave propagation are discussed. Wave breaking mechanism is incorporated into the present model to apply the new equations to surf zone. The equations are solved nu- merically for regular wave propagation over a shoal and in surf zone, and a comparison is made against measurements. It is found that the inclusion of the amplitude dispersion can also improve model＇ s performance on prediction of wave heights around breaking point for the wave motions in surf zone.  相似文献   

The reflection of regular and irregular waves by a partially perforated caisson breakwater on a step bed   总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2  

LIU Yong  LI Yucheng  TENG Bin  XIA Zhisheng 《海洋学报(英文版)》2009,28(4):107-117

This study examines the reflection of regular and irregular waves from a partially perforated caisson breakwater located on a step bed. The step bed is treated as an idealized rubble mound foundation. Based on the linear potential theory, an analytical solution is developed to calculate the reflection coefficient of the structure subjected to regular waves. The matched eigenfunction expansion method is used for the solution. The regular wave method is also extended to irregular waves using a linear transfer function. The calculated results obtained for limiting cases are exactly the same as corresponding results given by the previous researchers. The present predictions also agree well with experimental data in the published literatures. Numerical experiments are conducted to examine the variations of the reflection coefficient versus its main effect factors, and some interesting results are presented.  相似文献   

DG-FEM solution for nonlinear wave-structure interaction using Boussinesq-type equations     

Allan P. Engsig-Karup  Jan S. Hesthaven  Harry B. Bingham  T. Warburton 《Coastal Engineering》2008

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Height variability from the MIROC – IPCC model for the 20th century compared to that of the TOPEX/POSEIDON altimeter     

P.S. Polito  O.T. Sato  I. Wainer 《Ocean Modelling》2008,24(3-4):73-91

Planetary waves are key to large-scale dynamical adjustment in the global ocean as they transfer energy from the east to the west side of oceanic basins; they connect the forcing in the ocean interior with the variability at its boundaries; and they change the local heat content, thus coupling oceanic, atmospheric, and biological processes. Planetary waves, mostly of the first baroclinic mode, are observed as distinctive patterns in global time series of sea surface height anomaly (SSHA) and heat storage. The goal of this study is to compare and validate large-scale SSHA signals from coupled ocean-atmosphere general circulation Model for Interdisciplinary Research on Climate (MIROC) with TOPEX/POSEIDON satellite altimeter observations. The last decade of the models’ time series is selected for comparison with the altimeter data. The wave patterns are separated from the meso- and large-scale SSHA signals by digital filters calibrated to select the same spectral bands in both model and altimeter data. The band-wise comparison allows for an assessment of the model skill to simulate the dynamical components of the observed wave field. Comparisons regarding both the seasonal cycle and the Rossby wave field differ significantly among basins. When carried within the same basin, differences can occur between equal latitudes in opposite hemispheres. Furthermore, at some latitudes the MIROC reproduces biannual, annual and semiannual planetary waves with phase speeds and average amplitudes similar to those observed by the altimeter, but with significant differences in phase.  相似文献   

Impacts of Kelvin wave forcing in the Peru Humboldt Current system: Scenarios of spatial reorganizations from physics to fishers   总被引：2，自引：1，他引：1  

Sophie Bertrand  Boris Dewitte  Jorge Tam  Erich Díaz  Arnaud Bertrand   《Progress in Oceanography》2008,79(2-4):278

Because climate change challenges the sustainability of important fish populations and the fisheries they support, we need to understand how large scale climatic forcing affects the functioning of marine ecosystems. In the Humboldt Current system (HCS), a main driver of climatic variability is coastally-trapped Kelvin waves (KWs), themselves originating as oceanic equatorial KWs. Here we (i) describe the spatial reorganizations of living organisms in the Humboldt coastal system as affected by oceanic KWs forcing, (ii) quantify the strength of the interactions between the physical and biological component dynamics of the system, (iii) formulate hypotheses on the processes which drive the redistributions of the organisms, and (iv) build scenarios of space occupation in the HCS under varying KW forcing. To address these questions we explore, through bivariate lagged correlations and multivariate statistics, the relationships between time series of oceanic KW amplitude (TAO mooring data and model-resolved baroclinic modes) and coastal Peruvian oceanographic data (SST, coastal upwelled waters extent), anchoveta spatial distribution (mean distance to the coast, spatial concentration of the biomass, mean depth of the schools), and fishing fleet statistics (trip duration, searching duration, number of fishing sets and catch per trip, features of the foraging trajectory as observed by satellite vessel monitoring system). Data sets span all or part of January 1983 to September 2006. The results show that the effects of oceanic KW forcing are significant in all the components of the coastal ecosystem, from oceanography to the behaviour of the top predators – fishers. This result provides evidence for a bottom-up transfer of the behaviours and spatial stucturing through the ecosystem. We propose that contrasting scenarios develop during the passage of upwelling versus downwelling KWs. From a predictive point of view, we show that KW amplitudes observed in the mid-Pacific can be used to forecast which system state will dominate the HCS over the next 2–6 months. Such predictions should be integrated in the Peruvian adaptive fishery management.  相似文献   

Wave Forces Acting on Vertical Walls     

李本霞  俞聿修  余锡平 《中国海洋工程》2008,22(1):151-160

Regular and irregular wave forces acting on vertical walls are studied by a previously developed numerical model. The computed wave forces are compared with the available experimental data to verify the numerical model, and satisfactory agreements are obtained. The variation of wave forces with incident angles and the shape of simultaneous pressure distribution are investigated, and the comparisons between numerical results and Goda＇ s predictions are also carried out. It is concluded that the maximum wave forces acting on the unit length of vertical wall is often induced by the obliquely incident waves instead of normally incident waves, while Goda＇ s formula may be inapplicable for oblique wave incidence. The shape of simultaneous pressure distribution is not significantly influenced by incident angles, and it can be favorably predicted by Goda＇ s formula. When regular wave heights are taken as the same as irregular wave height H1%, the irregular wave forces Ph. 1% are slightly larger than regular wave forces in most cases.  相似文献