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41.
42.
Gu Jialong Shen Xianrong
Professor Hohai University Nanjing
Engineer The Investigation Design Institute Bureau of Communications of Zhejiang Province Hangzhou 《中国海洋工程》1991,(2)
In accordance with the similarity between breaking waves and hydraulic jumps, the expressions for estimating wave decay and wave energy dissipation in the surf zone are derived based on the fundamental equations of fluid mechanics. Using the numerical solution of cnoidal wave theory, the various kinematic properties of waves in the surf zone, including the relative wave crest height, wave energy, and radiation stress are discussed. The values calculated with the method proposed in this paper are in good agreement with the experimental data gained by other researchers. The present expressions can be used in the studies of sediment transport on gently sloping beaches, especially on muddy beaches. 相似文献
43.
根据台湾东北海域的水文资料分析,作者对台湾暖流起源提出以下看法:台湾暖流起源于黑潮分支和台湾暖水,黑潮分支为主要源泉。台湾暖流的深层水完全来自黑潮分支的深层水,不具有暖流性质,而其上层水是由黑潮分支的上层水和台湾暖水组成。由于台湾暖水有明显的季节变化,与此相应,台湾暖流也发生相应的变化。 相似文献
44.
本文提出了一种地震折射液的虚拟射线理论,根据该理论,只要已知地表层的速度,即可直接由折射波信息提取地震参数,从而可实现折射界面的反演。 文中通过实际介质模型的计算机实验结果,验证了该理论的正确性。 相似文献
45.
In this study, we investigate two internal wave generation methods in numerical modeling of time-dependent equations for water wave propagation, i.e., delta source function method and source term addition method, the latter of which has been called the line source method in literatures. We derive delta source functions for the Boussinesq-type equations and extended mild-slope equations. By applying the fractional step splitting method, we show that the delta source function method is equivalent to the source term addition method employing the energy velocity. This suggests that the energy velocity should be used rather than the phase velocity for the transport of incident wave energy in the source term addition method. Finally, the performance of the delta source function method is verified by accurately generating nonlinear cnoidal waves as well as linear waves for horizontally one-dimensional cases. 相似文献
46.
南海区重点岸段海岸侵蚀现状成因分析与防治对策 总被引:4,自引:0,他引:4
在2003年与2006年对南海区琼州海峡两岸重点岸段(雷州市徐闻县龙塘镇赤坎村岸段、海南省海口市镇海村岸段和新海村岸段)的海岸侵蚀进行了现场监测,测量了侵蚀的长度、宽度和面积。对两年现场测量结果进行比较分析,结果表明:海岸侵蚀长度的平均速度为200m/a,宽度的平均速度为20m/a,面积的平均速度为4000m2/a。应用了地质分析、水动力分析、极端海洋气候影响分析等新的理论和方法重点分析了海岸侵蚀的成因,并提出了一些对策,供相关部门参考。 相似文献
47.
48.
太平洋东南海域表层地转流场的季节及年际变化特征 总被引:1,自引:0,他引:1
利用1992~2001年Topex/Poseidon卫星高度计遥感资料分析了太平洋东南海域(5°~55°S,70°~120°W)表层流场的季节及年际变化特征。结果表明,南赤道流的季节变化主要体现在流速上,而秘鲁海流和西风漂流主要体现在流轴位置的移动上。表层流场的年际变化受El Nino影响,在El Nino期间,南赤道流和秘鲁海流均发生流向偏转现象,大部分海区流场被削弱(除低纬度海区外),而在其后的1998年La Nina期间,流场则重新被加强,西风漂流无明显的年际变化。 相似文献
49.
This study is devoted to oceanographic features of the semi-enclosed Gulf of Aqaba, Red Sea. The data were recorded in winter—spring
1999 on the R/V Meteor cruise leg 44/2. Temperature and salinity profiles were measured at six positions (I—VI). The shipboard
NarrowBand Acoustic Doppler Current Profiler (NB ADCP) 150 kHz continuously recorded current profiles down to 350 m en route.
The research revealed that the current near the Strait of Tiran front (position VI) represents a semidiurnal signal of an
internal tide wave (∼12 h period; 0.2 ms−1 amplitude) that might be generated by the barotropic tide at the sill of the Strait. A sequence of cyclonic and anticyclonic
eddy pairs is found along the axis of the Gulf of Aqaba during winter-spring seasons. These sub-mesoscale signals are dominant
above the main thermocline and might be caused by wind forcing and the narrowness of the Gulf; it might remain in other seasons
with different dimensions in relation to the depth of thermocline. The total diameter of each pair was twice the baroclinic
Rossby radius (R ≈ 10 km). A single anti-cyclonic eddy was observed in the upper 300 m in the northern tip of the Gulf with a diameter of
about 5–8 km. 相似文献
50.
We develop techniques of numerical wave generation in the time-dependent extended mild-slope equations of Suh et al. [1997. Time-dependent equations for wave propagation on rapidly varying topography. Coastal Engineering 32, 91–117] and Lee et al. [2003. Extended mild-slope equation for random waves. Coastal Engineering 48, 277–287] for random waves using a source function method. Numerical results for both regular and irregular waves in one and two horizontal dimensions show that the wave heights and the frequency spectra are properly reproduced. The waves that pass through the wave generation region do not cause any numerical disturbances, showing usefulness of the source function method in avoiding re-reflection problems at the offshore boundary. 相似文献