浅水波长计算问题     

薛鸿超 《海洋工程》2006,24(2):95-99106

浅水波周期保持常值,而波长缩减时其计算需进行迭代。提出了两个精度较高的经验公式供计算应用。水深波长比差值ΔLD0的变化规律反映出浅水波长缩减为一复杂过程,并与波能密度加大相关。LD0≤0.14时,特别是LD0=0.056前后,其特征会更加显著,由此可探讨波长变化的内在机理。  相似文献   

桩式离岸堤保滩促淤工程消浪效果试验研究   总被引：9，自引：0，他引：9  

龚崇准  陈美发等 《海洋工程》2001,19(4):72-77

在上海奉贤南北港保滩促淤工程中，采用了一种新型结构型式－桩式离岸堤，并通过物理模式试验进行了桩式离岸堤消浪效果研究。针对离岸堤通常建于近岸水区破波带的特点，重点研究水深，堤高以及堤身结构对波浪衰减的影响，同时对桩式离岸堤堤后水域的波浪底流速 分析探讨。研究结果表明，桩式离岸堤不仅具有良好的消浪效果。而且可在较大范围内改变波态，即由引起水体剧烈紊动的破波转变为浅水推进波，从而有效地改善海滩上的动力条件，促进海滩免受侵蚀，是一种具有广泛应用前景和新型保滩促淤结构。  相似文献   

A method of determining dominant wave direction from multiparameter hydrological gauge measurements and its application     

WANG Sheng''an  LONG Xiaomin  ZHANG Keben  CHEN Junchang  ZHANG Wenjing  CAI Shuqun 《海洋学报(英文版)》2007,26(3):160-166

Multi-parameter hydrological gauge is an instrument developed by the South China Sea Institute of Oceanology,the Chinese Academy of Sciences to make simultaneous observation of current, wave, tide, water temperature and conductivity.By using the well-known "PUV method", the directional wave spectrum can be calculated and the dominant wave direction is then obtained.The comparison of the dominant wave directions derived from the measurements using both the multi-parameter hydrological gauge and the MARK Ⅱ "Wave-Rider" directional buoy shows that the dominant wave directions derived from the two kinds of measurements are in good agreement.  相似文献   

波浪作用下孔隙海床-管线动力相互作用分析   总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1  

栾茂田  曲鹏  郭莹  杨庆  范庆来 《海洋工程》2007,25(2):43-51

波浪作用下海床中的孔隙水压力与有效应力是影响海底管线稳定性的主要因素。然而,在目前的海床响应分析中一般将管线假定为刚性,并不能合理地考虑海床与管线之间的相互作用效应,同时也没有考虑土体和管线加速度对海床动力响应的惯性影响,从而无法确定由此所引起的管线内应力。为此考虑管线的柔性,分别采用饱和孔隙介质的Biot动力固结理论和弹性动力学理论列出了海床与管线的控制方程,进而采用摩擦接触理论考虑海床与管线之间的相互作用效应,基于有限元方法建立了海床-管线相互作用的计算模型及其数值算法。通过变动参数对比计算讨论了管线几何尺寸、海床土性参数对波浪所引起的管线周围海床孔隙水压力和管线内应力的影响。  相似文献   

Adjustment time of the first baroclinic Rossby wave in the global oceans     

FAN Haimei  LI Bingrui  XU Ren  ZHANG Zhenglong  LI Yihong 《海洋学报(英文版)》2006,25(6):15-21

1Introduction Planetary waves involve the main processes bywhich perturbation signal in one part of the ocean istransferred to another part.In the1970s,mostof theprevious theoretical studies focus on the local Ekmanpumping and the nondispersive long baroc…  相似文献   

Numerical Simulation of Wave Field near Submerged Bars by PLIC-VOF Model   总被引：2，自引：1，他引：2  

刘诚刘晓平  蒋昌波 《中国海洋工程》2005,19(3):509-518

Investigating the wave field near structures in coastal and offshore engineering is of increasing significance. In the present study, simulation is done of the wave profile and flow field for waves propagating over submerged bars, using PLIC-VOF （Pieeewise Linear Interface Construction） to trace the free surface of wave and finite difference method to solve vertical 2D Navier-Stokes （N-S） equations. A comparison of the numerical results for two kinds of submerged bars with the experimental ones shows that the PLIC-VOF model used in this study is effective and can compute the wave field precisely.  相似文献   

减少航道外波浪集聚对策研究   总被引：3，自引：0，他引：3  

李思源  白志刚  王广聚 《海洋技术学报》2002,21(3):56-61

进港航道开挖引起波能重新分布 ,导致航道外近区域波能聚集 ,波高增大 ,从而影响防波堤稳定及港内泊稳条件。文章介绍了 Boussinesq方程的推导过程和发展过程 ,基于深水和缓变地形的色散关系 ,建立了波浪数学模型。该模型可用于研究深水和浅水地区波浪的浅水变形、折射、绕射和反射。并提出了减少波能聚集、降低堤前波高的多种措施。结合大窑湾港实际工程 ,经过多方面的数物模比选 ,利用数学模型优化出一种可行的喇叭口航道开挖方案并付诸实施 ,降低了防波堤的堤前波高 ,满足了预期的设计要求。  相似文献   

双峰谱型海浪的波高和周期分布     

陈雪英 《海洋科学进展》1996,(2)

本文利用收集到的实测双峰谱型海浪过程资料，把这些资料以波高和周期的相关系数为参数分成５组，讨论每组双峰谱型下被高、周期的统计分布．并探讨了相关系数对波高分布和周期分布的影响。  相似文献   

海底浅层介质切变波的初步研究   总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2  

卢博  李赶先  黄韶健 《热带海洋学报》2004,23(4):11-18

初步分析了中国沿海海底浅层介质切变波的传播特性,讨论了多种海底浅层介质切变波与压缩波、物理力学性质之间的关系,并与Hamilton和Chen等人的结果进行了比较。认为海底浅层介质存在切变模量,切变波可以被测量出来,切变波速为50—600m·s-1,测量频率在50—200kHz之间,用波速比可以评价海底浅层介质的应力 应变性质。研究工作有助于描述和评价中国沿海海底浅层介质声学物理性状,并为最终建立中国沿海海底地声模型提供依据。  相似文献   

Effects of scattering and resonance on energy dissipation of an internal tide in a narrow shelf     

Yuji Kawamura  Yujiro Kitade 《Journal of Oceanography》2007,63(1):15-25

The effects of scattering and resonance on the energy dissipation of an internal tide were investigated using a two-dimensional model which is a reassembled version of the theoretical generation model devised by Rattray et al. (1969) for internal tide. The basic character of the scattering process at the step bottom was first investigated with a wide shelf model. When the internal wave incited from a deep region (Region II) into the shallow shelf region (Region I), a passing wave into the shallow region, a reflected wave into the deep region, and a beam-like wave, i.e. a scattered wave (SW), emanated at the step bottom. The SW, which consists of the superposition of numerous internal modes, propagated upward/downward into both regions. The general properties of the SW were well expressed around the shelf edge, even in the present model with viscosity effect. The amplitude of the SW decreased dramatically when the depth of the velocity maximum of the incident internal wave in Region II corresponded with the depth of the shelf edge. In the narrow shelf model, where the decay distance of the internal wave in Region I is longer than the shelf width, the incident internal wave reflected at the coast to form a standing wave. When the internal wave in Region I is enhanced by the resonance, the energy of the SW in Region II is also intensified. Furthermore, the energy of the modes in Region II predominated when the velocity maximum is identical to that of the dominant mode in Region I. These results suggest that the spatial scale of shelf region is a very important factor governing the energy dissipation of the internal tide through reflection and scattering in a narrow shelf.  相似文献