Determination of the wave climate for the southern Brazilian shelf     

D.C. Cuchiara  E.H. Fernandes  J.C. Strauch  J.C. Winterwerp  L.J. Calliari 《Continental Shelf Research》2009

The main objective of this study is the characterization of the wave climate in the Southern Brazilian Shelf (SBS) based on a thorough review of existing field data and on numerical modeling experiments. A quantitative knowledge about the wave climate of this area is important to understand the mechanisms driving episodic mud bank attachments to the sandy shore, and the interaction of these banks with the flow and waves. The statistical analysis of existent data on the wave climate throughout the SBS indicates that the predominant wave directions are 100° and 160° (E–SE), with wave heights varying between 1 and 1.50 m. The wave period varies between 6 and 14 s, with predominance of mean wave period of 8 s (sea conditions) and 12 s (swell conditions). The spectral wave model SWAN version 40.41 [Booij, N., Haagsma, I.J.G., Holthuijsen, L.H., Kieftenburg, A.T.M.M., Ris, R.C., van der Westhuysen, A.J., Zijlema, M., 2004. SWAN Cycle III Version 40.41 Users Manual, Delft University of Technology, Delft, The Netherlands, p. 118, http://fluidmechanics.tudelft.nl/swan/index.htm] is used to simulate the wave climate for the region. Special attention is given to Cassino Beach, describing the wave climate observed during the Cassino Experiment, carried out in 2005. The verification of the standard SWAN model was carried out based on the comparison between numerical modeling results and available data of significant wave height, peak period, mean wave direction and energy density for the period relative to February of 1998. Results showed satisfactory model predictions of significant wave height and reasonably accurate predictions of peak spectral wave period and direction. The model performance is also considered satisfactory in the representation of the wave climate of the region when the wave spectrum has only one spectral peak, but presents limitations for bimodal wave spectrum. When two spectral peaks are observed, the SWAN model agrees with the spectral level observed in the low frequency, but underestimates the spectral level in the high-frequency band. When considering the presence of mud deposits in the area, model results predict that although the presence of mud attenuates most of the wave energy on the low frequency peak, it has a smaller effect in attenuating the wave energy on the high frequency peak.  相似文献   

Extreme wave event along the Guyana coastline in October 2005     

Mathijs van Ledden  Geoffrey Vaughn  Joost Lansen  Frank Wiersma  Mewburn Amsterdam 《Continental Shelf Research》2009

The objective of the research is to analyze in detail the causes and consequences of the unusual event at the coast of Guyana (South America) during October 16–19, 2005. Several sea defense structures were damaged and flooding of low-lying areas occurred. A data analysis of offshore wave and water level characteristics shows an abrupt change in wave direction from east to almost north on October 16, 2005 and a sudden increase in the offshore peak period up to extreme values. The offshore significant wave height was also relatively high, and these wave characteristics coincided with springtide conditions. The long-wave periods and the sharp transition in wave direction indicate that this event is associated with swell waves generated by a depression far away. An analysis of hurricanes and depressions reveals that a severe depression in the Northern Atlantic Ocean during October 11–15 was the origin of this swell event. Numerical computations with SWAN have been carried out to investigate the propagation of the offshore wave characteristics towards the shoreline. The SWAN model includes wave damping due to the presence of soft mud deposits. A calibration of the parameters has been carried out using joint offshore and onshore wave data from November 2006. The numerical simulations of the event in October 2005 clearly demonstrate that the mud banks damp the wave heights, but have almost no effect on the peak period. The resulting waves at the steep sea walls can be classified as surging waves causing severe runup and overtopping. The obtained insights are translated into practical recommendations for the Guyana Sea and River Defence Division in Guyana to build a sustainable management and maintenance of the sea defenses in the future.  相似文献   

太湖波浪数值模拟   总被引：8，自引：7，他引：1  

李一平  逄勇  刘兴平  罗潋葱  徐秋霞 《湖泊科学》2008,20(1):117-122

在太湖实际波浪观测的基础上,采用率定验证后的第三代动谱平衡方程,考虑实际水底地形、波浪折射、浅化、反射、破碎、湖流等条件下,对太湖波浪进行数值模拟,研究太湖波浪的主要影响因素.结果表明:SWAN模型可以较好地模拟风作用下太湖风浪的生成和传播过程,模型在太湖应用是合适的;波高、波长、波周期等波浪参数在太湖的分布与风速、风向、水深等因素密切相关;在相同风向、不同风速情况下,太湖波浪发展至稳定状态的时间不一样;在不同风向,相同风速持续作用下,有效波高达到稳定的时间差不多,变化趋势也比较相同.说明波浪的发展不光取决于风速的大小,还同风的持续吹的时间和风区长度有关.  相似文献   

1979-2018年间山东半岛沿海台风浪危险性分布的数值模拟研究     

王宁  侯一筠  李水清  莫冬雪  刘泽  李健 《海洋与湖沼》2020,51(4):861-868

台风浪灾害在山东半岛沿海时常发生，对人类生命财产和基础设施构成很大威胁，因此，对山东半岛海域台风浪的危险性分析具有重要的现实意义。本研究使用ADCIRC+SWAN耦合数值模式采用Holland模型风场与NCEP再分析风场组合的风场驱动，对1979—2018年36次台风过境期间的海浪过程进行了模拟。以台风过境时最大有效波高及历时频数作为危险性评价指标，给出了山东半岛近岸台风浪强度等级分布、历时频数分布以及危险性指数分布。研究结果显示，山东半岛北部为台风浪低危险区，台风浪强度等级低且历时短；南部二级强度（有效波高范围为1.3—2.5m）以上台风浪发生较为频繁，危险性高于北部；东部台风浪强度可以达到四级（有效波高4m以上），危险性最高。  相似文献   

浙江近海典型寒潮浪的数值模拟:以2015年3月和2016年1月为例     

郑桥  张继才  车助镁  朱业 《海洋科学》2019,43(10):75-87

本文选用第三代海浪模式SWAN(SimulatingWAveNearshore),以CCMP(Cross-CalibratedMultiPlatform)风场作为驱动风场,数值模拟了2015年3月份和2016年1月份影响浙江省的两次典型寒潮,并将模拟结果与实测数据进行了对比,模拟误差均在20%之内,属于可以接受的范围,表明SWAN模型和CCMP风场能够满足此次寒潮浪数值模拟的需要。本文从风场的强度、最值风速、风向、持续时间等方面,对比了两次寒潮期间的寒潮风场;从寒潮浪的强度、最值波高分布、持续时间、涌浪分布区域等方面,对两次典型寒潮期间的寒潮浪时空分布的异同进行了研究。总体而言,2015年3月份寒潮的风场从强度上弱于2016年1月份寒潮, 3月份寒潮风场的主流大风是6～7级风,风向偏正北风;1月份寒潮风场的主流大风是6～8级风,风向偏西北风。2015年3月份的寒潮浪强度上弱于2016年1月份寒潮浪, 3月份寒潮浪波高变化剧烈的区域位于研究区域的东北部, 1月份寒潮浪波高变化剧烈的区域位于研究区域的中部和东部; 3月份寒潮浪的大浪主要是5级浪, 1月份寒潮浪的大浪主要是5、6级浪。当寒潮对研究区域的波浪场影响最为显著时,2015年3月份寒潮期间研究区域的北部多为涌浪,2016年1月份寒潮期间研究区域的南部多为涌浪。  相似文献   

Evaluation of a high-resolution wave hindcast model SWAN for the West Mediterranean basin     

《Applied Ocean Research》2019

This study aims to present an evaluation and implementation of a high-resolution SWAN wind wave hindcast model forced by the CFSR wind fields in the west Mediterranean basin, taking into account the recent developments in wave modelling as the new source terms package ST6. For this purpose, the SWAN model was calibrated based on one-year wave observations of Azeffoune buoy (Algerian coast) and validated against eleven wave buoys measurements through the West Mediterranean basin. For the calibration process, we focused on the whitecapping dissipation coefficient C_ds and on the exponential wind wave growth and whitecapping dissipation source terms. The statistical error analysis of the calibration results led to conclude that the SWAN model calibration corrected the underestimation of the significant wave height hindcasts in the default mode and improved its accuracy in the West Mediterranean basin. The exponential wind wave growth of Komen et al (1984) and the whitecapping dissipation source terms of Janssen (1991) with C_ds = 1.0 have been thus recommended for the western Mediterranean basin. The comparison of the simulation results obtained using this calibrated parameters against eleven measurement buoys showed a high performance of the calibrated SWAN model with an average scatter index of 30% for the significant wave heights and 19% for the mean wave period. This calibrated SWAN model will constitute a practical wave hindcast model with high spatial resolution (˜3 km) and high accuracy in the Algerian basin, which will allow us to proceed to a finer mesh size using the SWAN nested grid system in this area.  相似文献   

Wave prediction in a port using a fully nonlinear Boussinesq wave model   总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1  

Choi Young-Kwang  Seo Seung-Nam  Choi Jin-Yong  Shi Fengyan  Park Kwang-Soon 《海洋学报(英文版)》2019,38(7):36-47

A wave forecasting system using FUNWAVE-TVD which is based on the fully nonlinear Boussinesq equations by Chen(2006) was developed to provide an accurate wave prediction in the Port of Busan, South Korea. This system is linked to the Korea Operational Oceanographic System(KOOS) developed by Park et al.(2015). The computational domain covers a region of 9.6 km×7.0 km with a grid size of 2 m in both directions, which is sufficient to resolve short waves and dominant sea states. The total number of grid points exceeds 16 millions,making the model computational expensive. To provide real-time forecasting, an interpolation method, which is based on pre-calculated results of FUNWAVE-TVD and SWAN forecasting results at the FUNWAVE-TVD offshore boundary, was used. A total of 45 cases were pre-calculated, which took 71 days on 924 computational cores of a Linux cluster system. Wind wave generation and propagation from the deep water were computed using the SWAN in KOOS. SWAN results provided a boundary condition for the FUNWAVE-TVD forecasting system. To verify the model, wave observations were conducted at three locations inside the port in a time period of more than 7 months. A model/model comparison between FUNWAVE-TVD and SWAN was also carried out. It is found that, FUNWAVE-TVD improves the forecasting results significantly compared to SWAN which underestimates wave heights in sheltered areas due to incorrect physical mechanism of wave diffraction, as well as large wave heights caused by wave reflections inside the port.  相似文献   

Distribution characteristics of wave energy in the Zhe-Min coastal area     

Qin Ye  Zhongliang Yang  Min Bao  Weiyong Shi  Hongyuan Shi  Zaijin You  Wenyan Zhang 《海洋学报(英文版)》2022,41(5):163-172

A 10-year（2003–2012） hindcast was conducted to study the wave field in the Zhe-Min coastal area（Key Area OE-W2） located off Zhejiang and Fujian provinces of China. Forced by the wind field from a weather research and forecasting model（WRF）, high-resolution wave modelling using the SWAN was carried out in the study area. The simulated wave fields show a good agreement with observations. Using the simulation results, we conducted statistical analysis of wave power density in terms of spatial distr...  相似文献   

SWAN和甘肃省气象风险预警产品在岷县一次强对流过程中的应用     

王勇  王宝鉴  刘维成  伏晶  周晓军 《干旱气象》2014,(1):151-156

介绍了临近预报系统(SWAN)和甘肃省中小河流洪水和山洪地质灾害气象风险预警平台的产品特征及其在2012年5月10日甘肃岷县强对流天气过程中的应用。SWAN系统表明,在强回波影响岷县期间,监测到最大反射率因子达到50 dBZ以上,其对应的高度为9 km;风暴体内垂直积分含水量和回波顶高的极值分别达到15 kg/m2和18 km,表明风暴在影响岷县期间发展旺盛;TITAN风暴产品也较为准确地预测了风暴的发展方向和趋势;定量降水预报产品QPF对本次过程的降水落区预报较为准确,但是降水量级预报偏小。总体来看,SWAN系统在本次强对流天气过程中发挥了很好的监测预警功能。甘肃省中小河流洪水和山洪地质灾害气象风险预警平台在云图、雷达、自动区域站的多资料融合监测中也发挥了重要作用,其暴雨云团加强显示、降水估测等功能都对强对流风暴有很好的监测预警作用。  相似文献   

Hindcast of the wave conditions along the west Iberian coast     

L. Rusu  P. PilarC. Guedes Soares 《Coastal Engineering》2008

This paper describes the development of a wave prediction system for the west Iberian coast. The implemented wave prediction system is based on two state-of-the-art spectral wave models, WAM for the ocean area and SWAN for the nearshore. However, because of its extended geographical space the SWAN model will include some generation effects in the coarse SWAN simulations, complemented by wave transformation effects near the coast. The system was validated by means of extended hindcast runs in various regions belonging to the continental Portuguese coastal environment, which were compared with buoy data, focusing on the extreme energetic events and both direct comparisons and statistical results are presented.  相似文献