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研究养护海滩对风暴潮的响应过程在人工养滩工程设计与施工中具有重要意义。老龙头养护海滩在竣工半个月后遭遇“803”风暴潮，导致岸滩滩肩最大蚀退 6.5 m，沙坝坝顶最大下蚀 1.2 m。在现场测量的基础上，利用 XBeach 建立风暴潮过程
的老龙头海滩海床演变模型，研究结果表明： （1） XBeach 模拟结果与实际地形变化侵淤趋势一致，风暴潮期间人工沙坝均向岸移动，但模拟结果的侵蚀程度更大，海滩响应更加剧烈； （2） 强浪条件下人工沙坝的透射系数为 0.29~0.42，常浪条件下透射系数为 0.45~0.95，因而人工沙坝在大浪条件下掩护作用更佳； （3） 风暴潮期间人工沙坝附近破波显著，坝顶流速明显增大，最大可达 1.21 m/s，是无人工沙坝情况下的 2.3 倍，而在人工沙坝向岸侧，因波能提前耗散，流速减为 0.28 m/s，是无人工沙坝时的 0.4 倍，且没有产生离岸流。老龙头养护工程整体泥沙损失较少，易于恢复. 相似文献
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Daan Wesselman Renske de Winter Anita Engelstad Robert McCall Ap van Dongeren Piet Hoekstra Albert Oost Maarten van der Vegt 《地球表面变化过程与地形》2018,43(3):579-592
Under natural conditions, barrier islands might grow vertically and migrate onshore under the influence of long‐term sea level rise. Sediment is transported onshore during storm‐induced overwash and inundation. However, on many Dutch Wadden Islands, dune openings are closed off by artificial sand‐drift dikes that prevent the influx of sediment during storms. It has been argued that creating openings in the dune row to allow regular flooding on barrier islands can have a positive effect on the sediment budget, but the dominant hydrodynamic processes and their influence on sediment transport during overwash and inundation are unknown. Here, we present an XBeach model study to investigate how sediment transport during overwash and inundation across the beach of a typical mesotidal Wadden Sea barrier island is influenced by wave, tide and storm surge conditions. Firstly, we validated the model XBeach with field data on waves and currents during island inundation. In general, the XBeach model performed well. Secondly, we studied the long‐term sediment transport across the barrier island. We distinguished six representative inundation classes, ranging from frequently occurring, low‐energy events to infrequent, high‐energy events, and simulated the hydrodynamics and sediment transport during these events. An analysis of the model simulations shows that larger storm events cause larger cross‐shore sediment transport, but the net sediment exchange during a storm levels off or even becomes smaller for the largest inundation classes because it is counteracted by larger mean water levels in the Wadden Sea that oppose or even reverse sediment transport during inundation. When taking into account the frequency of occurrence of storms we conclude that the cumulative effect of relatively mild storms on long‐term cross‐shore sediment transport is much larger than that of the large storm events. © 2017 The Authors. Earth Surface Processes and Landforms published by John Wiley & Sons Ltd. 相似文献
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为了探究XBeach模型中系统的参数调试对模拟剖面演变的影响,该文基于波浪水槽实验通过广义似然不确定性估计法(GLUE)对XBeach模型中的波浪非线性(facua)、沙滩湿崩塌临界坡度(wetslp)、波能耗散(alpha)等调试参数进行敏感性分析,阐述所选参数的物理意义及控制方程,选取不同的参数值观察岸滩剖面演变过程,并通过Brier Skill Score评价方法对模拟效果进行评价。结果表明改变参数值大小会得到不同的岸滩剖面模拟形态。其中参数facua控制波形,波浪由于非线性作用于岸滩会使剖面发生不同趋势的演变,改变facua参数值能够改变模拟剖面演化的趋势,使得模拟地形剖面演变产生较大的变化;参数wetslp作为湿崩塌临界斜率,改变其数值大小模拟地形改变的首要特征为剖面坡度;参数alpha作为波能耗散系数,改变其值会影响破波所释放的能量,从而影响剖面的侵淤程度。最终选取三者值分别为0.65、0.2、1.3,与水槽实验结果拟合最好。该结果对于XBeach的研究及应用具有一定的参考意义。 相似文献
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The formation of beach megacusps along the shoreline of southern Monterey Bay, CA, is investigated using time-averaged video and simulated with XBeach, a recently developed coastal sediment transport model. Investigations focus on the hydrodynamic role played by the bay's ever-present rip channels. A review of four years of video and wave data from Sand City, CA, indicates that megacusps most often form shoreward of rip channels under larger waves (significant wave height (Hs) = 1.5–2.0 m). However, they also occasionally appear shoreward of shoals when waves are smaller (Hs ~ 1 m) and the mean water level is higher on the beach. After calibration to the Sand City site, XBeach is shown to hindcast measured shoreline change moderately well (skill = 0.41) but to overpredict the erosion of the swash region and beach face. Simulations with small to moderate waves (Hs = 0.5–1.2 m) suggest, similar to field data, that megacusps will form shoreward of either rip channels or shoals, depending on mean daily water level and pre-existing beach shape. A frequency-based analysis of sediment transport forcing is performed, decomposing transport processes to the mean, infragravity, and very-low-frequency (VLF) contributions for two highlighted cases. Results indicate that the mean flow plays the dominant role in both types of megacusp formation, but that VLF oscillations in sediment concentration and advective flow are also significant. 相似文献
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Modelling storm impacts on beaches, dunes and barrier islands 总被引：10，自引：0，他引：10
Dano Roelvink Ad Reniers Ap van Dongeren Jaap van Thiel de Vries Robert McCall Jamie Lescinski 《Coastal Engineering》2009,56(11-12):1133-1152
A new nearshore numerical model approach to assess the natural coastal response during time-varying storm and hurricane conditions, including dune erosion, overwash and breaching, is validated with a series of analytical, laboratory and field test cases. Innovations include a non-stationary wave driver with directional spreading to account for wave-group generated surf and swash motions and an avalanching mechanism providing a smooth and robust solution for slumping of sand during dune erosion. The model performs well in different situations including dune erosion, overwash and breaching with specific emphasis on swash dynamics, avalanching and 2DH effects; these situations are all modelled using a standard set of parameter settings. The results show the importance of infragravity waves in extending the reach of the resolved processes to the dune front. The simple approach to account for slumping of the dune face by avalanching makes the model easily applicable in two dimensions and applying the same settings good results are obtained both for dune erosion and breaching. 相似文献
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R.T. McCall J.S.M. Van Thiel de Vries N.G. Plant A.R. Van Dongeren J.A. Roelvink D.M. Thompson A.J.H.M. Reniers 《Coastal Engineering》2010
A 2DH numerical, model which is capable of computing nearshore circulation and morphodynamics, including dune erosion, breaching and overwash, is used to simulate overwash caused by Hurricane Ivan (2004) on a barrier island. The model is forced using parametric wave and surge time series based on field data and large-scale numerical model results. The model predicted beach face and dune erosion reasonably well as well as the development of washover fans. Furthermore, the model demonstrated considerable quantitative skill (upwards of 66% of variance explained, maximum bias − 0.21 m) in hindcasting the post-storm shape and elevation of the subaerial barrier island when a sheet flow sediment transport limiter was applied. The prediction skill ranged between 0.66 and 0.77 in a series of sensitivity tests in which several hydraulic forcing parameters were varied. The sensitivity studies showed that the variations in the incident wave height and wave period affected the entire simulated island morphology while variations in the surge level gradient between the ocean and back barrier bay affected the amount of deposition on the back barrier and in the back barrier bay. The model sensitivity to the sheet flow sediment transport limiter, which served as a proxy for unknown factors controlling the resistance to erosion, was significantly greater than the sensitivity to the hydraulic forcing parameters. If no limiter was applied the simulated morphological response of the barrier island was an order of magnitude greater than the measured morphological response. 相似文献
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Erosion of hard‐rock coastal cliffs is understood to be caused by a combination of both marine and sub‐aerial processes. Beach morphology, tidal elevation and significant wave heights, especially under extreme storm conditions, can lead to variability in wave energy flux to the cliff‐toe. Wave and water level measurements in the nearshore under energetic conditions are difficult to obtain and in situ observations are rare. Here we use monthly cliff‐face volume changes detected using terrestrial laser scanning alongside beach morphological changes and modelled nearshore hydrodynamics to examine how exposed cliffs respond to changes in extreme wave conditions and beach morphology. The measurements cover the North Atlantic storms of 2013 to 2014 and consider two exposed stretches of coastline (Porthleven and Godrevy, UK) with contrasting beach morphology fronting the cliffs; a flat dissipative sandy beach at Godrevy and a steep reflective gravel beach at Porthleven. Beach slope and the elevation of the beach–cliff junction were found to influence the frequency of cliff inundation and the power of wave–cliff impacts. Numerical modelling (XBeach‐G) showed that under highly energetic wave conditions, i.e. those that occurred in the North Atlantic during winter 2013–2014, with Hs = 5.5 m (dissipative site) and 8 m (reflective site), the combination of greater wave height and steeper beach at the reflective site led to amplified wave run‐up, subjecting these cliffs to waves over four times as powerful as those impacting the cliffs at the dissipative site (39 kWm‐1 compared with 9 kWm‐1). This study highlighted the sensitivity of cliff erosion to extreme wave conditions, where the majority (over 90% of the annual value) of cliff‐face erosion ensued during the winter. The significance of these short‐term erosion rates in the context of long‐term retreat illustrates the importance of incorporating short‐term beach and wave dynamics into geomorphological studies of coastal cliff change. © 2017 The Authors. Earth Surface Processes and Landforms published by John Wiley & Sons Ltd. 相似文献
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