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More and more researches show that neither the critical downward acceleration nor the critical slope of water waves is a universal constant. On the contrary, they vary with particular wave conditions. This fact moders the models either for the probability of wave breaking B or for the whitecap coverage W based on these criteria difficult to apply. In this paper and the one which follows we seek to develop models for the prediction of both B and W based on the kinematical criterion. First, several joint probabihstic distribution functions (PDFs) of wave characteristics are derived, based on which the breaking properties B and W are estimated. The estimation is made on the assumption that a wave breaks ff the horizontal velocity of water particles at its crest exceeds the local wave celerity, and whitecapping occurs in regions of fluid where water particles travel faster than the waves. The consequent B and W depend on wave spectral moments of orders 0 to 4.Then the JONSWAP spectrum is used to represent the fetch-limited sea waves in deep water, so as to relate the probahility of wave breaking and the whitecap coverage with wind parameters. To this end, the time-averaging technique proposed by Glazman (1986) is applied to the estimation of the spectral moments involved, and furthermore, the theoretical models are compared with available observations collected from published literature. From the comparison, the averaging time scale is determined. The final models show that the probability of wave breaking as well as the whitecap coverage depends on the dimensionless fetch. The agreement between these models and the database is reasonable. 相似文献
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在实验室风浪水槽中进行纯风浪和混合浪波面位移观测,研究波长较长的规则波对风浪能量的影响.本文用混合浪和纯风浪中的风浪显著波的零阶谱矩之比代表混合浪中的风浪与纯风浪能量之比,并以此表征涌浪对风浪能量的影响.研究了该能量比随涌浪波陡S、风区x、波龄倒数u/C、涌浪频率与纯风浪谱峰频率之比fs/fwp的变化规律.结果表明,涌浪对风浪能量的抑制作用随涌浪波陡的增加、波龄倒数的增大及涌浪频率与纯风浪谱峰频率之比的增大而增强.发现该能量比依赖于无因次量R=(1+80(πS)2)1.9(fs/fwp)0.9(u/C)0.27,并拟合得到2者的经验关系.此外,本文实验还发现,在某些情况下,涌浪的存在使风浪能量增加. 相似文献
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Maximum Entropy Estimation of n-Year Extreme Waveheights 总被引：3，自引：4，他引：3
A new method for estimating the n (50 or 100) -year return-period waveheight, namely, the extreme waveheight expected to occur in n years, is presented on the basis of the maximum entropy principle. The main points of the method are as follows: (1) based on the Hamihonian principle, a maximum entropy probability density function for the extreme waveheight H, f(H)= aH^γe-^βH4 is derived from a Lagrangian function subject to some necessary and rational constraints; (2) the parameters α,β, and γ in the function me expressed in terms of the mean H, variance V=(H-H^-)^2—— and bias B = (H - H^-)^3——; and (3) with H^-, V and B estimated from observed data, the n-year return-period wave height Hn is computed in accordance with the formula 1/1-F(Hn)=n, where F( Hn ) is defined as F( Hn ) = ∫0^Hnf(H)dH .Examples of estimating the 50 and 100-year return period waveheighls by the present method and by some currently used method from observed data acquired from two hydrographic stations are given. A comparison of the estimated results shows that the present method is superior to the others. 相似文献
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1.IntroductionGreat progress has been madeinthe statistics of sea waves based onthe envelopetheory of Gaus-sian processes.Longuet-Higgins(1975,1983)first obtainedthe joint probability distributionfunction(PDF)of wave heights and periods.His work was exten… 相似文献
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为研究长波对短波尤其是风浪高频成分的调制,在实验室风浪水槽中产生混合浪,分析风浪受规则长波的调制。采用本征模态方法分解出不同尺度的风浪模态,计算各模态位移平方关于长波位相的平均。结果表明,风浪主要波、小尺度波和介于二者之间的中等尺度波,其能量沿长波位相的分布具有不同特征:风浪主要波的能量随长波波陡增加而减少,其分布与长波同相且关于长波波谷对称;中等尺度波的能量则随长波波陡增加而增加,在长波波峰迎风面略高于背风面;小尺度风浪的能量随着风速和长波波陡的增加而增加,随着风区长度的增加而减少,在长波波峰迎风面明显高于背风面。 相似文献
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微尺度滑动平均方法计算海浪谱奇阶矩的公式 总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2
Glazman提出了一种计算海浪谱高阶谱矩的微尺度平均方法,但是,他利用随机过程理论导出的计算偶阶矩的公式和参照偶阶矩结论定义的奇阶矩计算公式之间存在着内在的不一致性.本文在Glazman工作的基础上根据随机过程理论推导了“微尺度平均方法”计算奇阶谱矩的公式,纠正了他的错误.上述结论随即应用于讨论破碎对波面水质点水平速度分布的影响.通过破碎的加速度判据考虑了破碎对速度分布的限制,给出了未破碎波面上水质点水平速度的的统计分布的初步结果.该分布取决于谱宽度参数及白浪覆盖率的大小,当白浪覆盖率较大时明显偏离正态分布. 相似文献
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利用实验室波浪水槽观测规则长波对风浪的影响。谱分析显示,较之纯风浪谱,除已被广泛关注的长波抑制风浪这一现象外,当长波波陡较小,且频率远离风浪峰频时,长波还使得风浪谱向低频移动。利用Longuet-HigginsStewart(1960)理论,并考虑到风浪破碎的约束,计算了规则长波的存在对风浪谱的影响,发现可以较好地解释这一现象。表明当长波波陡小且频率远离风浪峰频时,长波对短波的二阶调制及其引起的破碎加强可能是长波影响风浪的主要机制。 相似文献
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用 Monte Carlo方法数值模拟海浪 ,研究其波包曲线跨某参考水平的波包中空波包所占的平均比例 ,并与 Ditlevsen和 L indgren关于空波包的理论相比较。结果表明 ,在二阶近似下该理论近似适用于海浪。在此基础上对 Longuet- Higgins的群性波包理论进行修正。修正后的理论与数值结果的比较表明本文所做的修正是十分有效的。修正后的群性波包理论克服了原理论的某些固有缺陷 相似文献