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1.
I. I. Didenkulova N. Zahibo A. A. Kurkin E. N. Pelinovsky 《Izvestiya Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics》2006,42(6):773-776
The process of nonlinear deformation of a surface wave on shallow waters is investigated. The main attention is given to the relationship between the wave Fourier spectrum and the steepness of wave front slope. It is shown that an unambiguous relationship couples these quantities in the case of an initially sinusoidal wave, which allows estimation of the spectral composition of the wave field from the observed wave steepness. 相似文献
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I. I. Didenkulova E. N. Pelinovsky O. I. Didenkulov 《Izvestiya Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics》2014,50(5):532-538
We study the run-up of long solitary waves of different polarities on a beach in the case of composite bottom topography: a plane sloping beach transforms into a region of constant depth. We confirm that nonlinear wave deformation of positive polarity (wave crest) resulting in an increase in the wave steepness leads to a significant increase in the run-up height. It is shown that nonlinear effects are most strongly pronounced for the run-up of a wave with negative polarity (wave trough). In the latter case, the run-up height of such waves increases with their steepness and can exceed the amplitude of the incident wave. 相似文献
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Runup of Tsunami Waves in U-Shaped Bays 总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2
The problem of tsunami wave shoaling and runup in U-shaped bays (such as fjords) and underwater canyons is studied in the framework of 1D shallow water theory with the use of an assumption of the uniform current on the cross-section. The wave shoaling in bays, when the depth varies smoothly along the channel axis, is studied with the use of asymptotic approach. In this case a weak reflection provides significant shoaling effects. The existence of traveling (progressive) waves, propagating in bays, when the water depth changes significantly along the channel axis, is studied within rigorous solutions of the shallow water theory. It is shown that traveling waves do exist for certain bay bathymetry configurations and may propagate over large distances without reflection. The tsunami runup in such bays is significantly larger than for a plane beach. 相似文献
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Abdalazeez A. Didenkulova I. I. Dutykh D. Denissenko P. 《Izvestiya Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics》2020,56(5):494-501
Izvestiya, Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics - The applicability of dispersive and nondispersive wave models for describing long-wave propagation and run-up on a beach in the case of composite bottom... 相似文献
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I. I. Didenkulova A. A. Kurkin E. N. Pelinovsky 《Izvestiya Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics》2007,43(3):384-390
The problem of sea-wave run-up on a beach is discussed within the framework of exact solutions of a nonlinear theory of shallow water. Previously, the run-up of solitary waves with different forms (Gaussian and Lorentzian pulses, a soliton, special-form pulses) has already been considered in the literature within the framework of the same theory. Depending on the form of the incident wave, different formulas were obtained for the height of wave run-up on a beach. A new point of this study is the proof of the universality of the formula for the maximum height of run-up of a solitary wave on a beach for the corresponding physical choice of the determining parameters of the incident wave, so that the effect of difference in form is eliminated. As a result, an analytical formula suitable for applications, in particular, in problems related to tsunamis, has been proposed for the height of run-up of a solitary wave on a beach. 相似文献
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I. I. Didenkulova A. V. Sergeeva E. N. Pelinovsky S. N. Gurbatov 《Izvestiya Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics》2010,46(4):530-532
A run-up of irregular long sea waves on a beach with a constant slope is studied within the framework of the nonlinear shallow-water
theory. This problem was solved earlier for deterministic waves, both periodic and pulse ones, using the approach based on
the Legendre transform. Within this approach, it is possible to get an exact solution for the displacement of a moving shoreline
in the case of irregular-wave run-up as well. It is used to determine statistical moments of run-up characteristics. It is
shown that nonlinearity in a run-up wave does not affect the velocity moments of the shoreline motion but influences the moments
of mobile shoreline displacement. In particular, the randomness of a wave field yields an increase in the average water level
on the shore and decrease in standard deviation. The asymmetry calculated through the third moment is positive and increases
with the amplitude growth. The kurtosis calculated through the fourth moment turns out to be positive at small amplitudes
and negative at large ones. All this points to the advantage of the wave run-up on the shore as compared to a backwash at
least for small-amplitude waves, even if an incident wave is a Gaussian stationary process with a zero mean. The probability
of wave breaking during run-up and the applicability limits for the derived equations are discussed. 相似文献
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The influence of the incident wave form on the extreme (maximal) characteristics of a wave at a beach (run-up and draw-down heights, run-up and draw-down velocities, and the breaking parameter) is studied. It is suggested to use in the calculations the definition of wavelength at a level of 2/3 of the maximal height, which to a certain degree correlates with the definition of the significant wavelength accepted in oceanology. Such a definition allows us to unify the relations for extreme run-up characteristics so that the influence of the incident wave form becomes insignificant. The obtained universal relations can be used for the estimates of run-up characteristics when the exact information about the form of the incident wave is not available. 相似文献