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1.
This paper replies to TE Baldock's discussion [Coastal Eng. 56 (2009) 380–381] of ‘Measurement of wave-by-wave bed-levels in the swash zone’ by Turner et al. [Coastal Eng. 55 (2008) 1237–1242]. We address and extend the comparison and discussion of ultrasonic bed-level sensors and buried pressure transducers to obtain estimates of the beach face elevation within the swash zone. We demonstrate the use of the former method to obtain many and continuous (every time the beach face is exposed) in-situ estimates of net sediment flux per swash.  相似文献   

2.
The sensitivity of the suspended sediment flux is tested with respect to rapid changes in bed-level across the surf zone of a sandy beach. The suspended flux was computed using a fixed instrument array, but bed-level changes due to ripple migration caused the instrument elevations to be significantly changed during the course of the experiment. The nominal elevations of the instruments were adjusted during data processing (using the MOBS array) to maintain a fixed elevation with respect to bed-level changes. The resultant suspended sediment concentrations and fluxes were significantly different from the unadjusted data, and for the present data set O(35%) less when averaged over the tide. The maximum difference between adjusted and unadjusted fluxes may be O(260%). The results indicate that changes in bed-level, particularly those due to bedform migration, must be accounted for when processing OBS data if reliable estimates of suspended sediment transport are to be obtained in the field.  相似文献   

3.
This paper describes newly obtained, high-frequency observations of beach face morphological change over numerous tidal cycles on a macrotidal sandy beach made using a large array of ultrasonic altimeters. These measurements enable the net cross-shore sediment fluxes associated with many thousands of individual swash events to be quantified. It is revealed that regardless of the direction of net morphological change on a tidal time scale, measured net fluxes per event are essentially normally distributed, with nearly equal numbers of onshore and offshore-directed events. The majority of swash events cause net cross-shore sediment fluxes smaller than ± 50 kg m− 1 and the mean sediment flux per swash event is only O(± 1 kg m− 1) leading to limited overall morphological change. However, much larger events which deposit or remove hundreds of kilograms of sand per meter width of beach occur at irregular intervals throughout the course of a tide. It was found that swash–swash interactions tend to increase the transport potential of a swash event and the majority of the swash events that cause these larger values of sediment flux include one or more interactions. The majority of the larger sediment fluxes were therefore measured in the lower swash zone, close to the surf/swash boundary where swash–swash interactions are most common. Despite the existence of individual swash events that can cause fluxes of sediment that are comparable to those observed on a tidal time scale, frequent reversals in transport direction act to limit net transport such that the beach face volume remains in a state of dynamic equilibrium and does not rapidly erode or accrete.  相似文献   

4.
C. Rocha  J. Ibanhez  C. Leote   《Marine Chemistry》2009,115(1-2):43-58
To investigate both the role of tides on the timing and magnitude of Submarine Groundwater Discharge (SGD), and the effect on benthic nitrogen biogeochemistry of nitrate-enriched brackish water percolating upwards at the seepage face, we conducted a study of SGD rates measured simultaneously with seepage meters and mini-piezometers, combined with sets (n = 39) of high resolution in-situ porewater profiles describing NH4+, NO3−, Si(OH)4 and salinity distribution with depth (0–20 cm). Sampling took place during two consecutive spring tidal cycles in four different months (November 2005, March, April and August 2006) at a backbarrier beach face in the Ria Formosa lagoon, southern Portugal. Our results show that the tide is one of the major agents controlling the timing and magnitude of SGD into the Ria Formosa. Intermittent pumping of brackish, nitrate-bearing water at the beach face through surface sediments changed both the magnitudes and depth distributions of porewater NH4+ and NO3− concentrations. The most significant changes in nitrate and ammonium concentrations were observed in near-surface sediment horizons coinciding with increased fraction of N in benthic organic matter, as shown by the organic C:N ratio. On the basis of mass balance calculations executed on available benthic profiles, providing ratios of net Ammonium Production Rate (APR) to Nitrate Reduction Rate (NRR), coupled to stoichiometric calculations based on the composition of organic matter, potential pathways of nitrogen transformation were speculated upon. Although the seepage face occasionally contributes to reduce the groundwater-borne DIN loading of the lagoon, mass balance analysis suggests that a relatively high proportion of the SGD-borne nitrogen flowing into the lagoon may be enhanced by nitrification at the shallow (1–3 cm) subsurface and modulated by dissimilatory nitrate reduction to ammonium (DNRA).  相似文献   

5.
The relationship between the flux of exotic benthic foraminiferal tests (i.e. tests which are supplied from open-sea sources alone) in a tidal inlet and that of bulk sediment was analysed, which can be expressed as two first-order linear equations. According to this relationship, in order to determine net sediment transport directions in the entrance, the test concentration in surficial sediments of the tidal basin can be compared against a ‘ critical level ’. The critical level is determined for the conditions that no net transport of bulk sediment is present within the entrance. If the observed concentration (averaged over the tidal basin) is higher than the simulated critical level, then the net sediment transport is directed to landward. This method is applied to the analysis of net sand transport at Christchurch Harbour, a tidal inlet system located in southern England. In this investigation, concentrations of exotic foraminiferal tests in the surficial sediments of the tidal basin and ebb tidal delta area were obtained from the analysis of sea-bed sediment samples. A series of probable critical levels were calculated based upon the data sets with regard to: (1) sediment discharge from the rivers; (2) magnitude of sediment discharge within the entrance during the ebb; (3) the test concentration outside the harbour; (4) the thickness of the moving layer; and (5) two parameters associated with dispersive processes. The results show that the concentration in the tidal basin sediment is higher than a number of simulated critical concentrations for representative cases. Consequently, the high level of the concentration of exotic benthic foraminiferal tests within the harbour should be explained as a result of landward net transport of sands within the entrance.  相似文献   

6.
Balaena Bay, Wellington Harbour, New Zealand, has a small pocket beach that was covered originally by pebbles and cobbles. In February and October 1982, the beach was nourished with sandy granular gravel, the stability of which was monitored until February 1984. Although isolated from oceanic swell, the new beach readily responded to locally generated wind waves which induced both northwards and southwards longshore drift. The net effect was erosion of the southern beach, aggradation over the central beach, and minor fluctuations at the northern end. Yet despite this mobility nearly all the nourishment sediment was retained in the littoral zone. Beach volumes, calculated for each survey, varied little and sediment distribution patterns revealed negligable transport of nourishment sediment to adjacent beaches and offshore areas. Stability is further confirmed by compositional data which record no preferential loss of the sandstone, argillite, and quartz components. The only compositional changes were the incorporation into the new beach of small (< 10%) quantities of sediment derived from the old beach surface and from biogenic productivity.  相似文献   

7.
A new medium–long term beach evolution model is proposed. This model is based on an analytically integrated sediment conservation equation and on a beach profile evolution model. The sediment conservation equation provides the sediment supplies or losses. The beach profile evolution model redistributes the sediment supplies or losses along the beach profile. In the beach profile evolution model, the definition of the complete profile is incorporated (breaking zone, transition zone, exterior zone and geological zone). The proposed model has been applied to several theoretical cases and to field data, showing the advantages of this model compared to classical “one-line models”.  相似文献   

8.
Historical changes in the hydrology, sedimentology, and physical oceanography of the Columbia River Estuary have been evaluated with a combination of statistical, cartographic, and numerical-modelling techniques. Comparison of data digitized from US Coast and Geodetic Survey bathymetric surveys conducted in the periods 1867–1875, 1926–1937, and 1949–1958 reveals that large changes in the morphology of the estuary have been caused by navigational improvements (jetties, dredged channels, and pile dikes) and by the diking and filling of much of the wetland area. Lesser changes are attributable to natural shoaling and erosion. There has been roughly a 15% decrease in tidal prism and a net accumulation of about 68 × 106m3 of sediment in the estuary. Large volumes of sediment have been eroded from the entrance region and deposited on the continental shelf and in the balance of the estuary, contributing to formation of new land. The bathymetric data indicate that, ignoring erosion at the entrance, 370 to 485 × 106m3 of sediment has been deposited in the estuary since 1868 at an average rate of about 0.5 cm y−1, roughly 5 times the rate at which sea level has fallen locally since the turn of the century.Riverflow data indicate that the seasonal flow cycle of the Columbia River has been significantly altered by regulation and diversion of water for irrigation. The greatest changes have occurred in the last thirty years. Flow variability over periods greater than a month has been significantly damped and the net discharge has been slightly reduced. These changes in riverflow are too recent to be reflected in the available in the available bathymetric data.Results from a laterally averaged, multiple-channel, two-dimensional numerical flow model (described in Hamilton, 1990) suggest that the changes in morphology and riverflow have reduced mixing, increased stratification, altered the response to fortnightly (neap-spring) changes in tidal forcing, and decreased the salinity intrusion length and the transport of salt into the estuary.The overall effects of human intervention in the physical processes of the Columbia River Estuary (i.e. decrease in freshwater inflow, tidal prism, and mixing; increase in flushing time and fine sediment deposition, and net accumulation of sediment) are qualitatively similar to those observed in less energetic and more obviously altered estuarine systems. A concurrent reduction in wetland habitats has resulted in an estimated 82% reduction in emergent plant production and a 15% reduction in benthic macroalgae production, a combined production loss of 51,675 metric tons of organic carbon per year. This has been at least partially compensated by a large increase in the supply of riverine detritus derived from freshwater phytoplankton primary production. Comparison of modern and estimated preregulation organic carbon budgets for the estuary indicates a shift from a food web based on comparatively refractory macrodetritus derived from emergent vegetation to one involving more labile microdetritus derived from allochthonous phytoplankton. The shift has been driven by human-induced changes to the physical environment of the estuary.While this is a relatively comprehensive study of historical physical changes, it is incomplete in that the sediment budget is still uncertain. More precise quantification of the modern estuarine sediment budget will require both a better understanding of the fluvial input and dredging export terms and a sediment tranport model designed to explain historical changes in the sediment budget. Oceanographic studies to better determine the mechanisms leading to the formation of the turbidity maximum are also needed. The combination of cartography and modelling used in this study should be applicable in other systems where large changes in morphology have occurred in historical time.  相似文献   

9.
The sediment transport parameter helps determining the amount of sediment transport in cross-shore direction. The sediment transport parameter therefore, should represent the effect of necessary environmental factors involved in cross-shore beach profile formation. However, all the previous studies carried out for defining shape parameter consider the parameter as a calibration value. The aim of this study is to add the effect of wave climate and grain size characteristics in the definition of transport rate parameter and thus witness their influence on the parameter. This is achieved by taking the difference in between “the equilibrium wave energy dissipation rate” and “the wave energy dissipation rate” to generate a definition for the bulk of sediment, dislocating within a given time interval until the beach tends reach an equilibrium conditions. The result yields that empirical definition of transport rate parameter primarily governs the time response of the beach profile. Smaller transport rate value gives a longer elapsed time before equilibrium is attained on the beach profile. It is shown that any significant change in sediment diameter or wave climate proportionally increases the value of the shape parameter. However, the effect of change in wave height or period on sediment transport parameter is not as credit to as mean sediment characteristics.  相似文献   

10.
The south-western shoreline along the entrance channel inside the Port of Richards Bay has experienced continued erosion. Four groynes were constructed to stabilise the shoreline. Monitoring of shoreline evolution provided valuable data on the accretion adjacent to two of the groynes and on the sediment transport rates at these groynes. Tides, beach slopes, winds, wave climate, current regime, and sand grain sizes were documented. The one site is “moderately protected” from wave action while the other is “protected” according to the Wiegel [Wiegel, R. L. (1964). Oceanographical engineering. Prentice Hall, Inc., Englewood Cliffs, NJ.] classification. The shoreline accreted progressively at the two groynes at 0.065 m/day and 0.021 m/day respectively. The shorelines accreted right up to the most seaward extremity of the groynes. Equilibrium shorelines were reached within about 3.5 years to 4 years, which compare well with other sites around the world. The mean wave incidence angle is large and was found to be about 22°. The median sand grain sizes were 0.33 mm and 0.37 mm. The groynes acted as total traps, the beach surveys were extended to an adequate depth, and cross-shore sediment transport did not cause appreciable net sand losses into the entrance channel. The net longshore transport rate along the study area, which is north-westbound, is only slightly lower than the gross longshore transport. The actual net longshore transport rates are 18 000 m3/year and 4 600 m3/year respectively at the two groynes. A rocky area limits the availability of sand at one groyne. There is fair agreement between the predicted and measured longshore transport rates at the other groyne.  相似文献   

11.
Beach-nearshore profiles combined with beach and surficial sediment samples were analyzed in conjunction with wave, current, littoral drift and sea-level data to determine the effect of bedrock on morphodynamic processes within the littoral zone of Alexandria on the Mediterranean coast of Egypt. This 14.5-km-long littoral cell is bounded by pronounced embayments and pocket beaches separated by headlands which prevent bypassing of beach sands, in effect making this cell a large, semi-closed basin. The compartmented nature of this cell acts together with the rough irregularity of the rocky seafloor to trap a thin veneer of sediment (<3 m thick), showing proportional mixing between two sedimentary provinces. A modern fine-grained sediment facies consisting of mixed carbonate/siliciclastic sand flanks most of the nearshore zone down to a depth of 8–10 m. Beyond this depth, considered to be the depth of closure, a relict late Pleistocene to mid-Holocene coarse-grained facies composed of biogenic carbonate sand is found. Along a short section of the coastline (km 3–6), the coarser sediment also occupies the nearshore zone. Over most of the study area the two sediment types are mixed in various proportions, largest mixing coinciding with poorest sorting. Profile analyses revealed seasonal changes in sediment volume along the coast which closely follow the cyclicity of seasonal changes in wave climate. The present shoreline orientation, headlands and rough, irregular rocky seabed are reflected in the erosion/accretion pattern, sediment characteristics, and the reversibility of longshore currents and littoral drift. Although there is a marked deficiency in the sediment balance, the sand budget for this cell, including artificial material (2.339*106 m3) has increased slightly by 0.041*106 m3 year–1 as a result of engineering works carried out to widen the coastal road (Corniche). In addition to the physical properties of the bedrock (degree of induration), the accelerating sea-level rise during the Holocene and human influences, the modern morphology of the coast, the erosional seabed features in the nearshore zone, and the texture of seabed sediments are all controlled by the original geometry of the coast which consisted of an elevated subaerial ridge.  相似文献   

12.
海滩的演变特征是海岸地形动力学研究的一个重要内容。基于在海口湾假日海滩连续33d的地形剖面观测数据和台风前后表层沉积物粒度参数数据, 分析了海口湾中间岸段海滩剖面及沉积物变化特征。利用经验正交函数分析, 得出观测期间海口湾海滩有4个主要模态, 分别对应于涌浪对海滩的建设过程、当地风浪对海滩的侵蚀过程、台风对海滩的侵蚀过程和海滩特征地形的调整过程。研究结果表明: 涌浪和风浪对海滩剖面的作用受到了潮位调制的影响; 海口湾海滩显示出遮蔽型海滩变化特征; 沉积物粒度参数对海滩变化反应敏感, 可以提供丰富的海滩演变信息。  相似文献   

13.
Ten exposed sandy sites covering a range from reflective to dissipative beaches were sampled in south-central Chile to evaluate: (1) spatial changes in species richness, abundance and biomass of the intertidal macroinfauna in response to changes in mean grain size, beach face slope and beach type, and (2) spatial changes in abundance, biomass and body sizes of the most abundant species in response to changes in the physical factors. The number of species, abundance and biomass per beach in general decreased with increasing particle size and beach face slope (steeper beaches) and increased from reflective to dissipative conditions. The best fit for number of species was with Dean's parameter, a measure of beach type, whereas for abundance and biomass the best fits were found with particle size. The isopod Excirolana braziliensis and the anomuran Emerita analoga increased in abundance and biomass towards dissipative conditions, whereas Excirolana hirsuticauda showed the opposite trend in biomass and was significantly larger in beaches with steeper profiles. It is concluded that responses to changes in beach type are more pronounced at community level than within species populations.  相似文献   

14.
利用涌浪影响下短时段内的冲流带滩面高频高程数据和碎波带波流资料,在奇异谱分析(SSA)的基础上,以比研究了不同形态滩面的冲淤变化趋势、趋势分布形状、冲淤变化周期和冲淤变化强度,以及同一条剖面不同桩点间各因素间的变化关系;用交叉谱方法探索了每分钟滩面高频冲淤变化与碎波带长重力波间的作用关系.分析结果表明,滩角韵律地形引起的冲流分流作用促进了滩脊向滩谷的泥沙转运,冲流带滩面存在明显的长重力波频段的周期性冲淤振动,滩面冲淤振动强度由滩面下部向上部递减,碎波带长重力波对滩面高频冲淤变化起重要作用.  相似文献   

15.
The across shore variability and trophodynamics of meiofauna were studied in a microtidal beach of the Thyrrenian Sea (NW Mediterranean). Two sites were sampled at Collelungo beach (Maremma Park, Italy) subjected to different regimes of sediment erosion and deposition. At each site, four levels were sampled in November 2002 and May 2003 along a transect from the supralittoral zone to the surf zone. Sediment cores were taken down to a depth of 10 cm and meiofaunal abundance and community structure were analyzed and related to the principal trophic resources (quantity and quality of organic matter, chlorophyll a, bacteria density and biomass).Meiofaunal abundance ranged between 14 ind. 10 cm−2 and 716 ind. 10 cm−2 in the top 0–10 cm of sediment. Abundance was lower in the surface (0–2 cm) than in the deeper (5–10 cm) sediment layers but no significant differences were found between the two sites.Multivariate BIOENV analysis showed that dryness, grain size (related to physical processes) and bacterial biomass, were the main variables explaining meiofauna distribution in these beaches. Meiofaunal densities and number of taxa were always higher at the swash level, while lower abundances were observed at the dry sampling level (+5 m). This across shore trend was also observed for the quality of the organic matter (PRT/CHO) and bacterial densities. Nematode assemblage structure at the swash sampling level showed a dominance of non-selective deposit feeders (1B), with Xyalidae as the dominant family (56%), followed by Thoracostomopsidae (14%) and Selachnematidae (12%).According to the findings, physical and biological variables at the swash level create optimal living conditions for the meiobenthos, making the swash a key area within the beach ecosystem, with potential implications within basic and applied ecological studies.  相似文献   

16.
The structure of macrofaunal communities at two similar exposed sandy beaches on the western coast of Portugal was monitored for approximately 18 months by sampling all the beach area, from the shoreline to the base of the dunes. The beaches’ physical environment, as well as community density and composition, seasonal variations and the potential relationships between biological data and environmental parameters were studied. The two beaches had similar exposure to wave action, but differed in terms of sediment grain size, extent of the intertidal area, sediment moisture content and, especially, in the potential food availability in the form of allochthonous debris. Differences were observed with regard to the communities’ structure, namely regarding composition and relative contribution of the dominant species. Seasonality, especially temperature variations, and the interaction between seasons and the beach zones (supralittoral vs. intertidal) also had a strong influence on communities: controlling dominant species’ density and the horizontal distribution of the dominant species, and promoting a differential utilization of the beach by several resident macrofaunal animals. The present study allows the identification of key species in exposed sandy beaches of western Portugal and demonstrates that a steady community structure does not persist in the similarly exposed conditions observed, which may be mainly a response to distinct detritus subsidies, combined with differences in sediment grain size, sediment moisture content and extent of the intertidal area.  相似文献   

17.
A numerical model is developed to compute the shoreline planform in a crenulate bay beach. The new model combines polar and Cartesian coordinates and can be used effectively to compute a hooked zone shoreline in the lee of upcoast headland. The model is calibrated using laboratory data with an incident wave angle ranging from 25° to 60°. The results of calibration and verification suggest that the ratio of the sediment transport parameters by wave and longshore current in this model is close to unity, and the computed shoreline planforms for the hooked and unhooked zones are in good agreement with the ones measured, especially when a bay is close to static equilibrium. In addition, the bay shape calculated by the present model is similar to that given by the well-known empirical parabolic equation for a bay in static equilibrium. The process of bay shape development from a straight beach to a static equilibrium bay is studied using laboratory experiments and the present numerical model. The temporal variations in the computed longshore sediment transport at different locations within a bay beach are analyzed. From this the decrease in the sediment transport becomes apparent while a bay beach changes its shape from straight toward a state of equilibrium. Based on this experience, it may be concluded that the present numerical model can produce a temporal change in the shoreline planform of a crenulate bay beach from a transition state to static equilibrium subject to seasonal wave action.  相似文献   

18.
利用涌浪影响下短时段内的冲流带滩面高频高程数据和碎波带波流资料,在奇异谱分析(SSA)的基础上,对比研究了不同形态滩面的冲淤变化趋势、趋势分布形状、冲淤变化周期和冲淤变化强度,以及同一条剖面不同桩点间各因素间的变化关系;用交叉谱方法探索了每分钟滩面高频冲淤变化与碎波带长重力波间的作用关系。分析结果表明,滩角韵律地形引起的冲流分流作用促进了滩脊向滩谷的泥沙转运,冲流带滩面存在明显的长重力波频段的周期性冲淤振动,滩面冲淤振动强度由滩面下部向上部递减,碎波带长重力波对滩面高频冲淤变化起重要作用。  相似文献   

19.
An instrumented, bottom-mounted, tripod deployed off Duck, North Carolina, at a depth of 8 m provided time Series of pressure, benthic currents, suspended Sediment concentrations and bed-level changes prior to and during a typical northeast storm. A Strong jet-like southerly-setting current generated by the northeaster was accompanied by downwelling and Strong bottom agitation by wind waves. A total bed-level change of over 15 cm was recorded. After a phase of bed erosion, the bed accreted rapidly. Side-scan imagery supports the inference that offshore or alongshore migration of quasi-discrete sediment lobes may have produced the observed pulse-like accretion.  相似文献   

20.
Sixty-one Global Positioning System (GPS), sub-aerial beach surveys were completed at 7 km long Ocean Beach, San Francisco, CA (USA), between April 2004 and March 2009. The five-year time series contains over 1 million beach elevation measurements and documents detailed changes in beach morphology over a variety of spatial, temporal, and physical forcing scales. Results show that seasonal processes dominate at Ocean Beach, with the seasonal increase and decrease in wave height being the primary driver of shoreline change. Storm events, while capable of causing large short-term changes in the shoreline, did not singularly account for a large percentage of the overall observed change. Empirical orthogonal function (EOF) analysis shows that the first two modes account for approximately three-quarters of the variance in the data set and are represented by the seasonal onshore/offshore movement of sediment (60%) and the multi-year trend of shoreline rotation (14%). The longer-term trend of shoreline rotation appears to be related to larger-scale bathymetric change. An EOF-based decomposition technique is developed that is capable of estimating the shoreline position to within one standard deviation of the range of shoreline positions observed at most locations along the beach. The foundation of the model is the observed relationship between the temporal amplitudes of the first EOF mode and seasonally-averaged offshore wave height as well as the linear trend of shoreline rotation. This technique, while not truly predictive because of the requirement of real-time wave data, is useful because it can predict shoreline position to within reasonable confidence given the absence of field data once the model is developed at a particular site.  相似文献   

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