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1.
Nelson pointed out that the wave breaking criterion(H/d)_b for gentle slopes(i<1/100),inwhich H is the wave height and d is the water depth at the breaking point,is smaller than that for beachslopes of i>1/100),i.e.,the value of(H/d)_b for gentle slopes may be smaller than 0.6.Goda indicatedthat the wave breaking criterion given by himself is a result based on theoretical study,so it should be alsocorrect and can be used for gentle beaches,i.e.,the value of(H/d)_b for gentle slopes may be still largerthan 0.7.By use of high order nonlinear wave theory,this problem is analyzed in this study and the reasonwhy there is a large difference between different studies is explained.Moreover,the bottom energy loss dur-ing wave propagation is considered and the critical slope for the absence of wave breaking is also analyzed. 相似文献
2.
An approximate model for nonlinear dispersion in monochromatic wave propagation models 总被引：4，自引：0，他引：4
A method is proposed for smoothly matching an approximate, shallow-water dispersion relation to an analytically obtained relation for intermediate and deep water. The method provides a correct limit for increasing water depth in the case of weakly non-linear waves, and provides a smooth prediction of wave parameters for the entire range of water depth. The model is applied to a parabolic equation form of the combined refraction-diffraction model, and numerical results are presented in comparison to published data. 相似文献
3.
The standing wave pressures due to laboratory-generated regular and random waves exerted on a vertical wall were measured in a wave flume. The standing wave pressures were measured at four relative depths of submergence on the test model. The regular wave test conditions ranged from intermediate to deep water conditions. The measured pressures due to regular waves were compared with results obtained using linear theory and third-order solution. In the case of random wave tests, the dynamic pressures due to the time histories of water surface elevation following the spectral characteristics of Pierson-Moskowitz and Bretschneider spectra were measured. These pressures are compared with simulated pressures obtained through the linear filter technique of Reid. The variation of pressure spectra along the depth are presented. In addition, comparison of spectral parameters, i.e. zeroth moment, spectral width parameter and narrowness parameter of measured and simulated pressure spectra, are reported and discussed. The behaviour of the coherence function between the wave elevation on the wall and the corresponding pressures is also discussed. 相似文献
4.
Numerical Wave Channel with Absorbing Wave-Maker 总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2
Wang Yongxue
Professor State Key Laboratory of Coastal Offshore Engineering Dalian University of Technology Dalian 《中国海洋工程》1995,(2)
The numerical wave channel has been developed based on the volume of fluid method (VOF) in conjunction with the Navier-Stokes equations. The absorbing wave-maker boundary on the left side of the channel is presented by prescribing velocity reference to linear wave-maker theory. The principle of which is that the numerical wave-maker is designed to move in a way that generates the required incident wave and cancels out any reflected wave that reach it at the same time. On the right side of the channel, the open boundary is set to permit incident waves to be transmitted freely. The parametric studies have been carried out at a range of ratios of water depth to wave length d/ L from 0.124 to 0.219, with wave height in the front of paddle/water depth ratio (H0 / d) from 0.1 to 0.3. Wave height, wave pressure distribution along the channel and velocity field are obtained for both open boundary condition and reflective boundary condition at the other end of the channel. For a reflective case, it is shown that 相似文献
5.
The equilibrium range of wind wave frequency spectrum 总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2
Wen Shengchang 《海洋学报(英文版)》1990,9(1):1-11
-Theoretical form of equilibrium range is given on the basis of the wind wave frequency spectra proposed by Wenel al. (1988a,b,c, 1989a,b). The effects of peakness factor and water depth are discussed. In the case of deep water the e-quilibrium range is reduced to the form first proposed by Toba (1973) and the coefficient of the formula is shown to be the function of nondimensional fetch or peak frequency. Results of the present paper have been verified through field data. 相似文献
6.
S.C. MohapatraT. Sahoo 《Applied Ocean Research》2011,33(1):31-40
In the present paper, a hydroelastic model is developed to deal with surface gravity wave interaction with an elastic bed based on the small amplitude water wave theory and plate deflection in finite water depth. The elastic bottom bed is modelled as a thin elastic plate and is based on the Euler-Bernoulli beam equation. The wave characteristics in the presence of the elastic bed is analyzed in both the cases of deep and shallow water waves. Further, the linearized long wave equation is generalized to include bottom flexibility. A generalized expansion formula for the velocity potential is derived to deal with the boundary value problems associated with surface gravity waves having an elastic bed. The utility of the expansion formula is illustrated by demonstrating specific physical problems which will play significant role in the analysis of wave structure interaction problems. Behavior of the wave spectra are discussed in the case of closed basin having a free surface and an elastic bottom topography. 相似文献
7.
Qiu Dahong 《中国海洋工程》1992,(2)
Based on the 1st order cnoidal wave theory, the nonlinear wave diffraction around a circular cylinder in shallow water is studied in this paper. The equation of the wave surface around the cylinder is formulated and by using this formula the wave surface elevation on the cylinder surface can be obtained. In this paper, the formula for calculating the cnoidal wave force on a circular cylinder is also derived. For the wave conditions which are often encountered in practical engineering designs, the ratios of the nonlinear wave forces to the linear wave forces are calculated, and the results are plotted in this paper for design purposes. In order to verify the theoretical results, model tests are conducted. After comparing the test results with the theoretical ones, it is concluded that, in shallow water, for the case of T g / d~(1/2) > 8-10 and H / d > 0.3, the cnoidal wave theory should be used to calculate the wave action on a cylindrical pier. 相似文献
8.
Qiu Dahong Zhou Yuanheng Jia Ying Professor Dept. of Civil Engineering Dalian University of Technology Dalian Lecturer Dept. of Civil Engineering Dalian University of Technology Dalian 《中国海洋工程》1992,(1)
Based on the 1st order cnoidal wave theory, the wave diffraction around the pier group inshallow water is studied in this paper. The formulas for calculating the nonlinear wave forces are also presented here. In order to verify the theoretical results, model tests are conducted in the wave flume in The State Key Laboratory of Coastal and Offshore Engineering located in Dalian University of Technology. The range of the wave parameters in the experiments is characteristic wave period T g/d~(1/2) = 8.08- 22.86, characteristic wave height H/ d= 0.1 ~ 0.45. The results obtained from the experiments agree with the theoretical results quite well. It is shown that, in shallow water the nonlinear wave forces acting on a pier group are greater than those calculated by linear wave theory, the value of increment in wave force increases with the increases of the nonlinearity of the wave. In the wave range studied in this paper, the nonlinear wave force can reach over 4 times the force calculatecd by linear wave theory. Thus, it is suggested that, when Tg / d~(1/2)> 8, the wave force on the piers in the pier group in shallow water should be calculated by using the cnoidal wave theory. 相似文献
9.
Paul C. Liu 《Ocean Engineering》1985,12(2):151-160
Wind waves recorded in water from 1.4 to 3.8 m deep near the southeastern shore of Lake Erie during 1981 were used to compare two methods for representing wave spectra in shallow water. The results show that the semi-theoretical Wallops model, which requires total energy, peak energy frequency, and depth as parameters, provides fair agreement with observed spectra at the deeper stations but only marginal agreement in very shallow water. The general empirical model, which requires average frequency and energy density at the spectral peak as additional parameters, provides closer agreement with observed wave spectra for all depths. 相似文献
10.
海洋波浪能平均功率的准确计算是波浪能开发和利用的基础。实践中，波浪能转换装置一般安装在有限水深区域。对于随机波，只有当详尽的波浪谱已知的时候，有限水深区的波能功率才能被准确计算出来。由于种种原因，实践中波浪的实测数据大多以散点图或有义波高和统计波周期的形式给出，而波浪谱信息有时则很难获得。基于这种情况，传统上人们利用无限水深条件下的相关公式来估算有限水深区域的波能功率，但这种做法会造成较大的误差。本研究显示，对于50 m水深的理论波谱JONSWAP谱来说该误差高达14.6%。为了提高波能功率计算的准确性，本文提出了一种基于能量频率的一阶和二阶近似算法，可以在未知波浪谱的情况下较为准确地计算不同水深时的波能功率。针对两种理论波浪谱的计算结果表明，本方法在计算有限带宽内的波能功率时计算误差低于2.8%。 相似文献
11.
Parameters in wind-wave frequency spectra and their bearings on spectrum forms and growth 总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2
Wen Shengchang 《海洋学报(英文版)》1989,8(1):15-39
The spectrum variance m0, peak frequency ω0 and peakness factor p are expressed in terms of nondimensional fetch and duration by making use of relations which are derived through comparing and analyzing existing empirical formulas for the growth of significant wave height and period. The main features of spectrum growth as specified by these parameters agree with those of the JONS-WAP experiments. For given wind speed and fetch, the high frequency parts beyond the peaks of shallow water spectra almost coincide with that of the corresponding deep water spectrum, whereas the low frequency parts differ appreciably. The method developed in this paper predicts smaller significant wave height as well as smaller wave period for shallow water spectra in contrast to the theoretical result of Kitaigorodskii ef al, in which the peak frequency, and consequently the significant wave period, remains basically unchanged for different water depths. Spectra are further reduced to a form in which only significant wave h 相似文献
12.
V. A. Kalmykov 《Physical Oceanography》1996,7(5):359-368
The wave-wave kinetic equation for surface gravity waves occurring in a deep sea and a sea of finite depth is solved numerically,
using the Runge-Kutta technique. Spectral evolution was the result only of the waves’ being non-linear, without any contribution
from wave generation and dissipation. The JONSWAP frequency spectra and the angular spectra of various widths were used to
perform calculations. The existence of a steady angular wave spectrum, following its long evolution in a deep sea, has been
confirmed here. For the sea of finite depth, a new result has been obtained. It exhibits the ‘focusing’ of the frequential
and the angular spectra when the wavelength of a harmonic from the spectral maximum equals 2π, of the depth of the sea. With
the depth further decreasing, the wave spectrum swiftly expands. The three-dimensional wave field in a deep sea becomes two-dimensional
in the shallows.
Translated by Vladimir A. Puchkin. 相似文献
13.
在理论分析的基础上利用根、茎、叶均可量化的植物模型,开展波浪水槽实验。通过改变实验水深、入射波高、植物分布密度等因素,研究不规则波在植物群传播时沿程波高衰减特性,利用快速傅里叶变换对不规则波频谱变化情况进行分析。结果表明,各植物模型消波效果较好,但很少出现植物消波的边界效应,不规则波沿植物群的波高变化情况多数时与Mendez理论曲线不一致,植物群各部分的波能衰减情况并无固定的变化规律。此外,波能衰减集中在谱峰频率处,且入射波高越大,透射波与入射波之间的谱峰值差值越大,但透射波的频谱宽度与入射波相比无明显变化。本研究可为采用近岸植物消波护岸提供一定的理论依据。 相似文献
14.
A new approach to high-order Boussinesq-type equations with ambient currents is presented. The current velocity is assumed to be uniform over depth and of the same magnitude as the shallow water wave celerity. The wave velocity field is expressed in terms of the horizontal and vertical wave velocity components at an arbitrary water depth level. Linear operators are introduced to improve the accuracy of the kinematic condition at the sea bottom. The dynamic and kinematic conditions at the free surface are expressed in terms of wave velocity variables defined directly on the free surface. The new equations provide high accuracy of linear properties as well as nonlinear properties from shallow to deep water, and extend the applicable range of relative water depth in the case of opposing currents. 相似文献
15.
Forces and moment on a horizontal plate due to wave scattering 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
Mana Patarapanich 《Coastal Engineering》1984,8(3):279-301
Wave reflection and transmission from a fixed horizontal plate have been widely studied but theoretical solutions are only available for certain limiting conditions. A general solution for this wave scattering problem is presented using the finite-element method, covering the whole range of relative depth ratio from shallow to deep water limits and submergence depth ratio from the water surface to the bed. Existing long-wave solutions for the surface plate and the submerged plate have been extended to obtain the hydrodynamic forces and overturning moment exerted on the plate. Results from the finite-element program compare well with these solutions. Variations of the reflection coefficient, wave forces and moment, with the plate width to wave length ratio, relative depth ratio and submergence depth ratio are discussed. 相似文献
16.
This is a Part I of a paper of nonlinearities of wind waves in the deep open ocean. First, considerations are given in order to verify the theoretical expression for bound waves from observed data. We compare the contribution of bound waves and double Bragg scattering to the second-order scattering, and we show that the contribution of bound waves is larger, and that bound waves can be detected by measuring the Doppler spectra of HF (high-frequency) radio wave scattering from the sea surface. Moreover, if the theory of the HF radio wave scattering from the sea surface is verified, so is the second-order perturbation theory for bound waves. Then, the contributions of bound waves to ocean wave spectra are investigated on the basis of the nonlinear theory. The bound waves are shown to modify frequency spectra and wave directional distributions at higher frequencies, and it is shown that although the modifications of frequency spectra are smaller for a two-dimensional field case than for a one-dimensional field case, they are not negligible at higher frequencies. On the other hand, the modifications of wave directional distributions are shown to be significant at higher frequencies. These discussions become significant only when bound wave predictions are verified in the open ocean. Consequently, it is shown that nonlinearities of water waves are important in considering both radio wave scattering from the sea surface and the detailed structures of ocean wave spectra at high frequencies. 相似文献
17.
-In previous and this studies it appears that the linear and nonlinear wave theory can notaccurately and easily predict the water particle velocities.Therefore,different from the theoretical consider-ations,in this study we have attempted to determine the transfer function empirically.Laboratory experi-ments were performed under various wave conditions.The empirical formulas of the transfer function ofthe wave height,angular frequency and water particle velocity were obtained on the basis of these test databy dimensional analysis and regression analysis.In intermediate and deep water depth conditions,thetransfer function was only a function of a nondimensional parameter which is composed of the angular fre-quency,the depth of the velocity gauge under the still water level,water depth and the acceleration of grav-ity.Finally,the empirical formulas were compared with experimental data and observational data formpresent and Cavaleri's(1978)studies.The empirical formulas were found to be in sufficient correl 相似文献
18.
It is well known that wave induced bottom oscillations become more and more negligible when the water depth exceeds half the wavelength of the surface gravity wave. However, it was experimentally demonstrated for regular waves that the bottom pressure oscillations at both first and second wave harmonic frequencies could be significant even for incoming waves propagating in deep water condition in the presence of a submerged plate [16]. For a water depth h of about the wavelength of the wave, measurements under the plate (depth immersion of top of plate h/6, length h/2) have shown bottom pressure variations at the wave frequency, up to thirty times larger than the pressure expected in the absence of the plate. In this paper, not only regular but also irregular wave are studied together with wave following current conditions. This behavior is numerically verified by use of a classical linear theory of waves. The wave bottom effect is explained through the role of evanescent modes and horizontally oscillating water column under the plate which still exist whatever the water depth. Such a model, which allows the calculation of the velocity fields, has shown that not only the bottom pressure but also the near bed fluid velocity are enhanced. Two maxima are observed on both sides of the location of the plate, at a distance of the plate increasing with the water depth. The possible impact of such near bed dynamics is then discussed for field conditions thanks to a scaling based on a Froude similarity. It is demonstrated that these structures may have a significant impact at the sea bed even in very deep water conditions, possibly enhanced in the presence of current. 相似文献
19.
合理的刚度和潜深设计可以使升沉水平板获得优异的消浪性能。基于考虑流体黏性的二维不可压缩Navier-Stokes方程,以高阶紧致插值CIP(constrained interpolation profile)方法求解方程对流项,采用VOF(volume of fluid)方法重构自由液面,构建二维数值波浪水槽。采用试验数据验证模型后,研究孤立波与升沉水平板相互作用,分析相对刚度K*、相对潜深d/h、相对波高H/h对于升沉板的消浪性能和运动响应的影响,揭示升沉板对孤立波的消浪机理。研究表明:在孤立波通过时,升沉板会经历一个先上升后下降的运动,随后非线性自由振动,板下方水体近似均匀流动,且水流的垂向流动与板的垂荡方向一致;升沉板主要通过不对称涡旋脱落、浅水变形、波浪反射与辐射波转化等方式消耗孤立波能量;一定条件下,采用最优相对刚度K*=4.0和最优相对潜深d/h=0.52可以取得良好的消浪效果,此时透射系数最小,同时升沉板的运动响应在合理的范围内。 相似文献