共查询到20条相似文献，搜索用时 15 毫秒
1.
A method of incorporating pressure forcing into a nonlinear potential flow wave model is presented. A semi-analytical pseudo-spectral method is used to calculate dynamic response of a water body exposed to evolving local pressure distribution. Surface slope coherent and slope proportional pressure functions are directly applied through a pressure term appearing in the dynamic free-surface boundary condition of a formulated initial boundary-value problem. First, a monochromatic pressure distribution is used to generate steady regular waves of permanent form. The pressure-induced wave motion exhibits stable harmonic structure for deepwater, transitional water and shallow water waves. In the next step, a more complex pressure system is used to initiate multi-component wave propagation. It is demonstrated that the proposed method provides well-posed initial conditions for studying various water wave scenarios within a framework of nonlinear potential flow solutions. 相似文献
2.
This paper illustrates the modulation of the eddy scale distribution due to superimposition of surface wave on only current flow. Time series data of three-dimensional velocity components were measured in a laboratory flume by a three-dimensional (3D) 16-MHz micro-acoustic Doppler velocimeter (Micro-ADV). The velocity time series of only current case and waves following the current were analysed to obtain the phase-averaged mean velocities, turbulent intensities, and Reynolds stress. The probability density function of phase-averaged stream-wise and vertical velocity fluctuations showed bimodal oscillations towards the free surface for higher frequency surface waves. It was revealed that surface waves along the current effectively decrease the intermittency of turbulence of the only current flow. Surface wave changed the intermittent structure of only current flow by modulation of the energy cascade mechanism of the only current flow by introduction of wave induced length scales. Also the scale of the finer dissipative eddies were prominently enhanced by the increase in surface wave frequency. Wavelet analysis of time series of velocity signals provided information on the eddy scale and their frequency of occurrence. It was found that the large eddies are carried by the crest regions of the progressive wave while the small scale eddies are carried by the trough regions. 相似文献
3.
Ａｔｈｒｅｅ－ｄｉｍｅｎｓｉｏｎａｌｏｃｅａｎｇｅｎｅｒａｌｃｉｒｃｕｌａｔｉｏｎｍｏｄｅｌｆｏｒｍｅｓｏｓｃａｌｅｅｄｄｉｅｓ──ⅠＭｅａｎｄｅｒｓｉｍｕｌａｔｉｏｎａｎｄｌｉｎｅａｒｇｒｏｗｔｈｒａｔｅ￥ＷａｎｇＪｉａａｎｄＭｏｔｏＩｋｅｄａ（Ｒ... 相似文献
4.
《Coastal Engineering》2001,42(1):53-86
A numerical model is used to simulate wave breaking, the large scale water motions and turbulence induced by the breaking process. The model consists of a free surface model using the surface markers method combined with a three-dimensional model that solves the flow equations. The turbulence is described by large eddy simulation where the larger turbulent features are simulated by solving the flow equations, and the small scale turbulence that is not resolved by the flow model is represented by a sub-grid model. A simple Smagorinsky sub-grid model has been used for the present simulations. The incoming waves are specified by a flux boundary condition. The waves are approaching in the shore-normal direction and are breaking on a plane, constant slope beach. The first few wave periods are simulated by a two-dimensional model in the vertical plane normal to the beach line. The model describes the steepening and the overturning of the wave. At a given instant, the model domain is extended to three dimensions, and the two-dimensional flow field develops spontaneously three-dimensional flow features with turbulent eddies. After a few wave periods, stationary (periodic) conditions are achieved. The surface is still specified to be uniform in the transverse (alongshore) direction, and it is only the flow field that is three-dimensional.The turbulent structures are investigated under different breaker types, spilling, weak plungers and strong plungers. The model is able to reproduce complicated flow phenomena such as obliquely descending eddies. The turbulent kinetic energy is found by averaging over the transverse direction. In spilling breakers, the turbulence is generated in a series of eddies in the shear layer under the surface roller. After the passage of the roller the turbulence spreads downwards. In the strong plunging breaker, the turbulence originates to a large degree from the topologically generated vorticity. The turbulence generated at the plunge point is almost immediately distributed over the entire water depth by large organised vortices. Away from the bed, the length scale of the turbulence (the characteristic size of the eddies resolved by the model) is similar in the horizontal and the vertical direction. It is found to be of the order one half of the water depth. 相似文献
5.
Marcello Di Risio Giorgio Bellotti Andrea Panizzo Paolo De Girolamo 《Coastal Engineering》2009,56(5-6):659-671
This paper describes new three dimensional experiments on water waves generated by landslides. The landslide is reproduced by a rigid elliptical body, sliding along an inclined plane (slope of 1/3, 1 vertical, 3 horizontal). The generated water waves are free to propagate both offshore and alongshore, since the plan dimensions of the used wave tank are of at least one order of magnitude larger than the width of the landslide, which can be considered to be a scale of the wave length. The experimental study has been carried out reproducing both subaerial and partially submerged landslides. The wave generation process is studied by means of video records of the near field flow and measurement of the landslide movement; the properties of the waves propagating along the coast are described on the basis of runup gauges. The waves observed during the experiments always present first a crest and then a trough; as the first wave propagates away from the generation area the crest tends to become smaller than the trough and the maximum runup along the coast is given by the second or by the third wave. An important feature is that the observed runup along the coast firstly grows with the distance from the generation area, it reaches a maximum value at about two times the width of the landslide, and then decreases. An estimate of the celerity at which the waves propagate along the coast is given on the basis of gauge measurements; it results that the crests propagate faster than the troughs, and the wave period increases. 相似文献
6.
LI Yucheng 《中国海洋工程》2000,14(1):59-67
—An experimental study of regular wave and irregular wave breaking is performed on a gentleslope of 1:200.In the experiment,asymmetry of wave profile is analyzed to determine its effect on wavebreaker indices and to explain the difference between Goda and Nelson about the breaker indices of regu-lar waves on very mild slopes.The study shows that the breaker index of irregular waves is under less influ-ence of bottom slope i,relative water depth d/L_0 and the asymmetry of wave profile than that of regularwaves.The breaker index of regular waves from Goda may be used in the case of irregular waves, whilethe coefficient A should be 0.15.The ratio of irregular wavelength to the length calculated by linear wavetheory is 0.74.Analysis is also made on the waveheight damping coefficient of regular waves after break-ing and on the breaking probability of large irregular waves. 相似文献
7.
LI Ruijie WANG Houjie
Dr. Associate Professor Engineering College of Ocean University of Qingdao Qingdao P. R. China
Ph. D. Candidate Engineering College of Ocean University of Qingdao Qingdao P. R. China 《中国海洋工程》1999,(3)
Nonlinear effect is of importance to waves propagating from deep water to shallow water.Thenon-linearity of waves is widely discussed due to its high precision in application.But there are still someproblems in dealing with the nonlinear waves in practice.In this paper,a modified form of mild-slope equa-tion with weakly nonlinear effect is derived by use of the nonlinear dispersion relation and the steady mild-slope equation containing energy dissipation.The modified form of mild-slope equation is convenient to solvenonlinear effect of waves.The model is tested against the laboratory measurement for the case of a submergedelliptical shoal on a slope beach given by Berkhoff et al,The present numerical results are also comparedwith those obtained through linear wave theory.Better agreement is obtained as the modified mild-slope e-quation is employed.And the modified mild-slope equation can reasonably simulate the weakly nonlinear ef-fect of wave propagation from deep water to coast. 相似文献
8.
Peter Hamilton 《Progress in Oceanography》2009,82(1):1-31
Observations of topographic Rossby waves (TRW), using moored current meters, bottom pressure gauges, and Lagrangian RAFOS floats, are investigated for the deep basin of the Gulf of Mexico. Recent extensive measurement programs in many parts of the deep gulf, which were inspired by oil and gas industry explorations into ever deeper water, allow more comprehensive analyses of the propagation and dissipation of these deep planetary waves. The Gulf of Mexico circulation can be divided into two layers with the ∼800-1200 m upper layer being dominated by the Loop Current (LC) pulsations and shedding of large (diameters ∼300-400 km) anticyclonic eddies in the east, and the translation of these LC eddies across the basin to the west. These processes spawn smaller eddies of both signs through instabilities, and interactions with topography and other eddies to produce energetic surface layer flows that have a rich spectrum of orbit periods and diameters. In contrast, current variability below 1000 m often has the characteristics of TRWs, with periods ranging from ∼10-100 days and wavelengths of ∼50-200 km, showing almost depth-independent or slightly bottom intensified currents through the weakly stratified lower water column. These fluctuations are largely uncorrelated with simultaneous upper-layer eddy flows. TRWs must be generated through energy transfer from the upper-layer eddies to the lower layer by potential vorticity adjustments to changing depths of the bottom and the interface between the layers. Therefore, the LC and LC eddies are prime candidates as has been suggested by some model studies. Model simulations have also indicated that deep lower-layer eddies may be generated by the LC and LC eddy shedding processes.In the eastern gulf, the highest observed lower-layer kinetic energy was north of the Campeche Bank under the LC in a region that models have identified as having strong baroclinic instabilities. Part of the 60-day TRW signal propagates towards the Sigsbee Escarpment (a steep slope at the base of the northern continental slope), and the rest into the southern part of the eastern basin. Higher energy is observed along the escarpment between 89°W and 92°W than either under the northern part of the LC or further south in the deep basin, because of radiating TRWs from the western side of the LC. In the northern part of the LC, evidence was found in the observations that 20-30-day TRWs were connected with the upper layer through coherent signals of relative vorticity. The ∼90° phase lead of the lower over the upper-layer relative vorticity was consistent with baroclinic instability. Along the Sigsbee Escarpment, the TRWs are refracted and reflected so that little energy reaches the lower continental slope and a substantial mean flow is generated above the steepest part of the escarpment. RAFOS float tracks show that this mean flow continues along the escarpment to the west and into Mexican waters. This seems to be a principal pathway for deepwater parcels to be transported westward. Away from the slope RAFOS floats tend to oscillate in the same general area as if primarily responding to the deep wave field. Little evidence of westward translating lower-layer eddies was found in both the float tracks and the moored currents. In the western gulf, the highest deep energy levels are much less than in the central gulf, and are found seaward of the base of the slope. Otherwise, the situation is similar with TRWs propagating towards the slope, probably generated by the local upper-layer complex eddy field, being reflected and forcing a southward mean flow along the base of the Mexican slope. Amplitudes of the lower-layer fluctuations decay from the northwest corner towards the south. 相似文献
9.
Kern E. Kenyon 《Journal of Oceanography》2004,60(6):1045-1052
Freely propagating surface gravity waves are observed to slow down and to stop at a beach when the bottom has a relatively gentle upward slope toward the shore and the frequency range of the waves covers the most energetic wind waves (sea and swell). Essentially no wave reflection can be seen and the measured reflected energy is very small compared to that transmitted shoreward. One consequence of this is that the flux of the wave’s linear momentum decreases in the direction of wave propagation, which is equivalent to a time rate of change of the momentum. It takes a force to cause the time rate of change of the momentum. Therefore, the bottom exerts a force on the waves in order to decrease the momentum flux. By Newton’s third law (action equals reaction) the waves then impart an equal but opposite force to the bottom. In shallow (but finite) water depths the wave force per unit bottom area is calculated, for normal angle of incidence to the beach, to be directly proportional to the square of the wave amplitude and to the bottom slope and inversely proportional to the mean depth; it is independent of the wave frequency. Constants of proportionality are: 1/4, the fluid density and the acceleration of gravity. Swell attenuation near coasts and some characteristics of sand movement in the near-shore region are not inconsistent with the algebraic structure of the wave force formula. Since the force has a depth variation which is significantly faster than that of the dimensions of the particle orbits in the vertical direction, the bottom induces a torque on the fluid particles that decreases the angular momentum flux of the waves. By an extension of Newton’s third law, the waves also exert an equal but opposite torque on the bottom. And because the bottom force on the waves exists over a horizontal distance, it does work on the waves and decreases their energy flux. Thus, theoretically, the fluxes of energy, angular and linear momentum are not conserved for shoaling surface gravity waves. Mass flux, associated with the Stokes drift, is assumed to be conserved, and the wave frequency is constant for a steady medium. 相似文献
10.
Masayuki Tokuda 《Journal of Oceanography》1972,28(6):242-253
Taylor-Grörtler vortices are longitudinal vortices resulting from a centrifugal instability. They are generated in the flow having a curved streamline with an increasing velocity in the direction of decreasing curvature.It is shown that the air flow above wind waves and swells also satisfies locally the condition of the centrifugal instability. Numerical calculations indicate the possibility of generation of Taylor-Görtler vortices on the trough of sea waves. For example, when a wind of about 12.2 m/s at 10-m level is blowing over sea waves of the wave length of 15 m like the swell, the critical water wave height beyond which the vortices may be generated is about 0.5 m, and the critical wave length and the height of center of the generated vortices are about 24 m and 3.7 m, respectively. Further, about the relations between the generation of vortices and wind waves, it is shown that the condition of their generation is satisfied at the trough of waves for early stages of the wave generation.In conclusion, it is expected that the Taylor-Görtler vortices change the wind profile along the sea surface, and also, play some part in the growth of wind waves, especially in the formation of their three dimensional structure. 相似文献
11.
胶州湾口海底沙波的类型、特征及发育影响因素 总被引：3，自引：1，他引：3
采用多波束资料对胶州湾口的海底沙波类型、特征进行了研究,发现研究区主要有线性沙波(二维)、沙丘(三维)2种沙波类型。结合水流流速、海底构造和表层沉积物综合分析发现:海底沙波缓坡朝向与优势流向不完全一致,为强流作用的产物,在涨、落潮作用下均可形成;沉积物的多寡是研究区海底沙波类型分布的决定因素,海底松散沉积物较为丰富的地区形成二维沙波。在水动力强大的胶州湾口,沉积物多分布在构造低洼地带,使二维线性沙波的分布与海底断裂延伸方向一致。 相似文献
12.
The instantaneous turbulent velocity field created by the breaking of spilling regular waves on a plane slope was measured in a plane running parallel to the slope using particle image velocimetry. The measurement plane was located at a height of about 1 mm above the bed. The measurement area encompassed the region where the large eddies generated at incipient wave breaking impinged on the bottom inside the surf zone. A total of 30 trials were conducted under identical experimental conditions. In each trial, six consecutive wave cycles were recorded. The measured velocity fields were separated into a mean flow and a turbulence component by ensemble averaging. The instantaneous turbulent velocity fields were analyzed to determine the occurrence frequency, location, geometry and evolution of the large eddies, and their contributions to instantaneous shear stresses, turbulent kinetic energy and turbulence energy fluxes. The motion of single glass spheres along the bed was also investigated. The two-phase flow measurements showed that the velocity and displacement of large solid particles on a smooth bed were significantly affected by the magnitude and direction of turbulence velocities. Overall, this study has examined the kinematic and dynamic properties of large eddies impinging on the bed and the interaction of these large-scale turbulent flow structures with the mean flow. The study has also highlighted the important role of large eddies in sediment transport. 相似文献
13.
基于非静压单相流模型NHWAVE建立了高精度二维数值波浪水槽,采用日本2011年实测真实海啸波型系统研究了海啸波在岛礁上传播变形的规律,并且分析了波高、礁坪淹没水深和礁前斜坡坡度等因素对孤立波和真实海啸传播变形的影响。结果表明,相比孤立波,类海啸波的波长明显大于孤立波波长,在测点处引起的水面变化持续时间更长,同等波高情况下真实海啸波型比孤立波能够携带更多的能量,与岛礁的相互作用也更为复杂,在礁坪上形成的淹没水深约为孤立波的两倍。礁前斜坡坡度和礁坪淹没水深均对类海啸波的反射和透射系数有显著影响。随着礁前斜坡坡度的增加,反射系数和透射系数均逐渐增加。随着礁坪淹没水深的增加,反射系数逐渐减小,而透射系数逐渐增大。但是,反射系数和透射系数均随着入射波高的增加而逐渐减小。 相似文献
14.
通过波浪水槽实验,对海平面变化造成的波浪动力因素改变引起的沙质岸滩形态响应开展机理性研究。实验采用1∶10单一沙质斜坡概化岸滩,利用3种不同实验水深模拟海平面变化,考虑椭圆余弦波、非规则波、规则波和孤立波4种类型波浪作用。实验对波浪在斜坡上的传播变形、破碎、上爬和回落过程的波高及波浪作用后的岸滩地形进行了测量。实验结果表明,椭圆余弦波、规则波和非规则波作用下,平衡岸滩呈现出滩肩形态,孤立波作用下则呈沙坝形态。海平面上升造成波浪动力增强,沙质岸滩平衡剖面形状基本保持不变向岸平移,槽谷、滩肩、沙坝位置以及岸线蚀退距离,均呈现出良好规律性。 相似文献
15.
A numerical time-simulation algorithm for analysing highly nonlinear solitary waves interacting with plane gentle and steep slopes is described by employing a mixed Eulerian–Lagrangian method. The full nonlinear free surface conditions are considered here in a Lagrangian frame of reference without any analytical approximations, and thus the method is valid for very steep waves including overturning. It is found that the runup height is crucially dependent on the wave steepness and the slope of the plane. Pressures and forces exerted on impermeable walls of different inclinations (slopes) by progressive shallow water solitary waves are studied. Strong nonlinear features in the form of pronounced double peaks are visible in the time history of pressure and force signals with increasing heights of the oncoming solitary waves. The effect of nonlinearity is less pronounced as the inclination of the wall decreases with respect to the bottom surface. 相似文献
16.
The transformation of internal waves over the oceanic shelf of variable depth is studied analytically within a linear theory
of a two-layer flow. It is shown that, at a specific character of depth variation, the internal wave propagates without reflection
from the slope even if it is sufficiently steep. The properties of such progressive waves are studied—their form and the current
structure in the upper and lower layers. The transformation of the wave propagating from the open ocean, where the depth is
assumed to be constant, is considered. It is shown that the wave is transformed at the shelf edge and does not change its
form in the course of time during its further propagation over the shelf. The height and form of the internal wave are calculated
at the interface of the transition of the two-layer flow into the one-layer flow. Applications of the developed analytical
theory to the estimation of internal wave transformation over a real shelf are discussed. 相似文献
17.
18.
《Oceanic Engineering, IEEE Journal of》1981,6(2):63-69
Aerial photography can be an important source of information regarding surface waves and oceanic features that affect the propagation of these waves. This correspondence briefly reviews the parameters involved in aerial photography of coherent trains of surface waves, including the effects of water reflectance, waves, and sun and cloud conditions, on wave imaging in aerial photos. It also describes an analytical model of the specular reflection of sunlight by surface waves, together with experimental results from an outdoor wave facility. Analytical expressions are derived for the accuracy of wavelength measurements using aerial photos of waves in the glitter pattern. Further, it treats wave slope determination from aerial photos of idealized waves and presents experimental results from an outdoor wave facility. The application of remote synoptic surface flow determination by imaging of surface waves is briefly discussed. 相似文献
19.
Jacobus P. Le Roux Zeki Demirbilek Marysia Brodalka Burghard W. Flemming 《Geo-Marine Letters》2010,30(5):549-560
The generation and growth of waves in deep water is controlled by winds blowing over the sea surface. In fully developed sea
states, where winds and waves are in equilibrium, wave parameters may be calculated directly from the wind velocity. We provide
an Excel spreadsheet to compute the wave period, length, height and celerity, as well as horizontal and vertical particle
velocities for any water depth, bottom slope, and distance below the reference water level. The wave profile and propagation
can also be visualized for any water depth, modeling the sea surface change from sinusoidal to trochoidal and finally cnoidal
profiles into shallow water. Bedload entrainment is estimated under both the wave crest and the trough, using the horizontal
water particle velocity at the top of the boundary layer. The calculations are programmed in an Excel file called WAVECALC,
which is available online to authorized users. Although many of the recently published formulas are based on theoretical arguments,
the values agree well with several existing theories and limited field and laboratory observations. WAVECALC is a user-friendly
program intended for sedimentologists, coastal engineers and oceanographers, as well as marine ecologists and biologists.
It provides a rapid means to calculate many wave characteristics required in coastal and shallow marine studies, and can also
serve as an educational tool. 相似文献
20.
Wave elevations and water particle velocities were measured in a laboratory surf zone created by the breaking of a narrow-band irregular wave train on a 1/35 plane slope. The incident waves form wave groups that are strongly modulated. It is found that the waves that break close to the shoreline generally have larger wave-height-to-water-depth ratios before breaking than the waves that break farther offshore. After breaking, the wave-height-to-water-depth ratio for the individual waves approaches a constant value in the inner surf zone, while the standard deviation of the wave period increases as the still water depth decreases. In the outer surf zone, the distribution of the period-averaged turbulent kinetic energy is closely correlated to the initial wave heights, and has a wider variation for narrow-band waves than for broad-band waves. In the inner surf zone, the distribution of the period-averaged turbulent kinetic energy is similar for narrow-band waves and broad-band waves. It is found that the wave elevation and turbulent kinetic energy time histories for the individual waves in a wave group are qualitatively similar to those found in a spilling regular wave. The time-averaged transport of turbulent kinetic energy by the ensemble-averaged velocity and turbulence velocity under the irregular breaking waves are also consistent with the measurements obtained in regular breaking waves. The experimental results indicate that the shape of the incident wave spectrum has a significant effect on the temporal and spatial variability of wave breaking and the distribution of turbulent kinetic energy in the outer surf zone. In the inner surf zone, however, the distribution of turbulent kinetic energy is relatively insensitive to the shape of the incident wave spectrum, and the important parameters are the significant wave height and period of the incident waves, and the beach slope. 相似文献