共查询到20条相似文献，搜索用时 15 毫秒
1.
This paper investigates the evolution of wave shape over a low-crested structure (LCS) using a 2-D RANS-VOF model. The model predictions of surface elevation and wave skewness and asymmetry are in good agreement with the recent measurements collected in a small scale wave channel at the University of Cantabria (UCA). The empirical formulae relating wave skewness and asymmetry to local Ursell number by Peng et al. (2009) have been extended to include the effect of wave reflection and the ramp in front of LCS and a wider range of Ursell number in the present study. In the presence of LCS, wave skewness decreases slightly above the seaward slope, then increases rapidly up to a maximum value above the structure crest, and decreases drastically above the leeward slope. Wave asymmetry decreases sharply above the seaward slope to a negative minimum value at the structure crest, and then increases rapidly to a positive value above the leeward slope. Our bispectral analysis indicates that sum interactions increase skewness and decrease asymmetry while difference interactions have opposite effects and that the former dominate above the seaward slope and on the structure crest but the latter dominate above the leeward slope of LCS. The observed wave shape evolution over a LCS can be attributed to the changes in the interplay of sum and difference interactions. We found that incident wave height and wave period, relative structure freeboard, structure crest width and structure porosity are the controlling factors for wave shape evolution over LCS. This study provides new insights on the role of wave skewness and asymmetry in the breakwaters stability and sediment transport around the structure and on the beaches behind it. 相似文献
2.
Investigation of the bottom slope effects on the nonlinear transformation of irregular waves, which are generated based on JONSWAP spectra, is carried out in a physical wave flume with three slopes (β = 1/15, 1/30, 1/45). The slope effects on the estimation of representative wave height are examined first. To obtain a better estimation of wave height, the slope effect should be considered when slope is larger than 1/30. The nonlinear parameters (bicoherence, skewness and asymmetry) are estimated by using the wavelet-based bispectrum, and the empirical formulae regarding these nonlinear parameters as a function of the local Ursell number are derived based on the present data measured on each slope. The results indicate that the slopes have a negligible effect on the variations of the skewness. The fitted coefficients of the formulae for the other parameters on slope β = 1/15 are clearly different from the results on the slopes β = 1/30 and 1/45, indicating that slope influence on the parameterization cannot be ignored when β > 1/30. Hence, new formulae considering the slope effect are presented. Furthermore, the empirical formulae for the data in surf zone are recommended. 相似文献
3.
通过波浪水槽实验对大糙率礁面存在下珊瑚礁海岸附近规则波非线性特征参数(偏度、不对称度和厄塞尔数)的变化规律进行了研究。实验采用圆柱体阵列来模拟礁面的粗糙度,测试了一系列规则波工况。结果表明:偏度、不对称度和厄塞尔数的幅值分别在珊瑚礁破碎带结束位置、破碎带内和破碎带开始位置达到最大。3个参数的幅值均随着入射波波高的增大而增大;偏度值随着波浪周期的增大而减小,不对称度幅值和厄塞尔数随着周期的增大而增大;偏度值随着礁坪水深的增大而增大,不对称度幅值和厄塞尔数随着礁坪水深的增大而减小。深水厄塞尔数可以用来描述礁坪上波浪非线性参数的变化,最后给出了用其预测礁坪上3个非线性特征参数的经验关系式。 相似文献
4.
Parameterisation and transformation of wave asymmetries over a low-crested breakwater 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
This paper presents the results of an investigation of the transformation of wave skewness and asymmetry as waves propagate obliquely over low-crested breakwaters, (LCBs), based on an analysis of measurements collected in the DELOS project. Considering the effect of the local Ursell number on wave asymmetries, a set of practical empirical formulae were established using least squares regression for both smooth and rubble mound LCBs. Predictions are in good agreement with measurements. Wave skewness on both sides of LCBs is linearly correlated for rubble mound LCBs but weakly correlated for smooth LCBs. While wave asymmetry on both sides of LCBs has a weakly quadratic correlation. The effect of the relative freeboard on the relationships of wave asymmetries between both sides is significant for rubble mound LCBs, but the same does not hold for smooth LCBs. With the presence of LCBs, wave skewness retains a positive sign on both sides but asymmetry changes from negative on the incident side to positive on the transmission side. Bispectral analysis shows that positive skewness and negative asymmetry arises from self–self and sum interactions but positive asymmetry is due to difference interactions between frequencies. The findings provide improved understanding of changes in wave skewness and asymmetry in the vicinity of structures, which may help mitigate scour and improve the stability of breakwaters. 相似文献
5.
Laurence C. Breaker 《Progress in Oceanography》2006,69(1):61-89
Nonlinear aspects of sea surface temperature (SST) in Monterey Bay are examined, based on an 85-year record of daily observations from Pacific Grove, California. Oceanic processes that affect the waters of Monterey Bay are described, processes that could contribute to nonlinearity in the record. Exploratory data analysis reveals that the record at Pacific Grove is non-Gaussian and, most likely, nonstationary. A more recent test for stationarity based on a power law approximation to the slope of the power spectrum indicates that the record is stationary for frequencies up to ∼8 cycles per year (∼45 days), but nonstationary at higher frequencies. To examine the record at Pacific Grove for nonlinear behavior, third-order statistics, including the skewness, statistical measures of asymmetry, the bicorrelation, and the bispectrum, were employed. The bicorrelation revealed maxima located approximately 365 days apart, reflecting a nonlinear contribution to the annual cycle. Based on a 365-day moving window, the running skewness is positive almost 80% of the time, reflecting the overall impact of warming influences. The asymmetry is positive approximately 75% of the time, consistent with the asymmetric shape of the mean annual cycle. Based on the skewness and asymmetry, nonlinearities in the record, when they occur, appear to be event-driven with time scales possibly as short as several days, to several years. In many cases, these events are related to warm water intrusions into the bay, and El Niño warming episodes.The power spectrum indicates that the annual cycle is a dominant source of variability in the record and that there is a relatively strong semiannual component as well. To determine whether or not the annual and semiannual cycles are harmonically related, the bispectrum and bicoherence were calculated. The bispectrum is nonzero, providing a strong indication of nonlinearity in the record. The bicoherence indicates that the annual cycle is a major source of nonlinearity and further implies that the annual and semiannual cycles are harmonically related. Based on the wavelet power spectrum (WPS), the appearance of the semiannual cycle is transitory; however, pathways between the annual and semiannual cycles appear at certain times when nonlinear interaction between them could occur. Comparisons between the WPS and the running skewness suggest that there is a tendency for periods when pathways exist, to coincide with increased positive skewness, and, often, with El Niño warming episodes. The Hilbert-Huang transform, a relatively new tool for nonstationary and nonlinear spectral analysis, was used to further examine the origin of the semiannual cycle. The time-dependent Hilbert spectrum reveals large and erratic variations in frequency associated with semiannual cycle but far greater stability associated with the annual cycle. As a result, the time-integrated Hilbert spectrum does not indicate the presence of a semiannual cycle. The method of surrogates from the field of nonlinear dynamics was also employed to test the Hopkins record for nonlinearity. Differences between the data and the surrogates were found that were statistically significant, implying the existence of nonlinearity in the record. Using the method of surrogates together with a one-year moving window, El Niño warming episodes appear to be a likely source of nonlinearity, consistent with the other analyses that were performed. Finally, the influence of stochastic variability due to serial correlation in the data was examined by comparing standardized statistics for the observations and for simulations based on an autoregressive model whose properties were obtained from the observations. The magnitude of the variability for the simulations was found to be far less than that associated with the original data, and thus stochastic variability does not appear to be a factor that significantly affects the interpretation of our results. 相似文献
6.
浅水极限波浪几何特征的实验研究 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
该文通过物理模型实验,对浅水区域内的波浪在破碎前极限状态下的几何特征进行了研究。实验基于JONSWAP谱对不规则波浪进行模拟,通过对波群中出现的单体极限波浪进行捕捉并对波形进行测量而得到研究样本。为了考察底坡因素对极限波浪几何特征的影响,实验共考虑了3组大小分别为β=1/15、1/30以及1/45的地形坡度。统计结果表明,在实验所采用的坡度范围内,当地波高与水深对近岸极限波浪的影响最为显著,随着水深与波高因素变化,极限波浪的几何特征也出现明显的改变。坡度因素对极限波陡和偏度的影响很小,可以被忽略,但是对不对称度参数的影响相对比较明显,坡度越陡,不对称程度越剧烈。最后,通过参数化,本文给出了极限波浪几何特征变化的经验公式。 相似文献
7.
8.
Long time series of wave field are experimentally simulated by JONSWAP spectra with random phases in a 2D wave flume. Statistic properties of wave surface, such as significant wave height, skewness and kurtosis, are analyzed, and the freak wave occurrence probability and its relations with Benjamin-Feir index （BFI） are also investigated. The results show that the skewness and the kurtosis are significantly dependent on the wave steepness, and the kurtosis increases along the flume when BFI is large. The freak waves are observed in random wave groups. They occur more frequently than expected, especially for the wave groups with large BFI. 相似文献
9.
为了解极端波浪非线性特征,明确波群在演化过程中的水动力学特性,针对一系列高斯波群进行了深水物理试验分析。试验结果显示,增加波陡或波群宽度,均可使波面偏度Sk发生明显变化,尤其当波浪发生破碎后,在破碎区域内,波面偏度变化范围剧烈增大,说明该偏度极大值可能作为判断破碎的一个指标。波陡和波群宽度对波面不对称度影响程度不同:当波陡或波群宽度增加后,波峰不对称度所受影响最大,波峰前端波谷不对称度次之,波峰后端波谷不对称度所受影响最小,但仍不可忽略。在波浪演化过程中,幅值谱出现不同程度频带下移,波浪破碎后,会出现永久频带下移;当调制不稳定发生时,随着调制不稳定指数增加,频带下移量呈现快速增长趋势。 相似文献
10.
Franoise Ozanne Andrew J. Chadwick David A. Huntley David J. Simmonds John Lawrence 《Coastal Engineering》2000,41(4)
In this paper, the performance of a 1-D Boussinesq model is evaluated against laboratory data for its ability to predict surf zone velocity moments. Wave evolution over a plane beach and a complex bathymetry both extending into the surf-zone is examined for six cases. For the plane beach, these comprise two cases, a spilling and a plunging cnoidal wave. For the complex bathymetry, these comprise four cases of longer and short wavelengths (spilling and plunging breakers), with regular and irregular periodicity. The model evaluation places emphasis on parameters of the wave field that could be used for the prediction of sediment transport; orbital velocity, undertow, velocity skewness, kurtosis and asymmetry. It is found that, despite an overestimation of the depth-averaged horizontal velocity in the regular waves cases, the predicted higher order velocity moments and undertow are in good agreement with the laboratory data. A bispectral analysis demonstrates that the nonlinear transfers of energy amongst the low order harmonics are well reproduced, but energy exchanges with the higher harmonics are less well predicted. As a result, the model handles velocity moments better in the shorter wave tests than in the long wave cases where triad interactions are stronger. Of the four parameters describing wave breaking, the model behaviour is most sensitive to the critical wave front slope φB, especially with regard to velocity skewness and kurtosis predictions. It is also found that increasing the thickness of the surface roller for the case of plunging breakers improves the model's performance. 相似文献
11.
In this paper.the characteristics of laboratory wind waves under various wind speeds and wat-er depths are studied.It is found that either the real or the imaginary part of the bispectrum can be relatedto the asymmetry of the wave profile,and the bicoherence is related to the ratio of nonlinear to linear wavecomponent.Occasionally,these two categories of nonlinear index lead to opposite inferences,because eachof them has its own significance and functions.The applicability of linear wave spectral model in oceanwaves becomes questionable only when strong nonlinearity is indicated by both of these two indexes.Thelinear spectral representation of wave fields does not necessarily become inadequate as water depth de-creases,and its appropriateness can be examined through the characteristics of the bispectrum. 相似文献
12.
The capabilities and limitations of the simulation of the probability density of rough sea surface elevations using the Gram-Charlier
series are analyzed. The data of direct wave measurements at an oceanographic platform in the Black Sea are used in the analysis.
The skewness of the sea surface elevation’s distribution depends on the mean slope formed by the dominating waves and on the
degree of the wave field development. A weak trend in the variations of the peakedness during the measurements of these parameters
is also observed. The estimates of the errors in the peakedness measurements during the construction of the probability density
of the sea surface elevations using the first five terms of the Gram-Charlier series are presented. 相似文献
13.
A nonlinear model for nonbreaking shoaling random waves 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
ＡｎｏｎｌｉｎｅａｒｍｏｄｅｌｆｏｒｎｏｎｂｒｅａｋｉｎｇｓｈｏａｌｉｎｇｒａｎｄｏｍｗａｖｅｓＬｉｕＸｉｎ＇ａｎ,ＨｕａｎｇＰｅｉｊｉ,ＣｈｅｎＸｕｅｙｉｎｇ,ＨｕＺｅｊｉａｎ（ＲｅｃｅｉｖｅｄＯｃｔｏｂｅｒ１５,１９９６,ａｃｃｅｐｔｅｄＡｕｇｕ... 相似文献
14.
João Mil-Homens Conceição J.E.M. Fortes António A. Pires-Silva 《Ocean Engineering》2010,37(2-3):236-251
The FUNWAVE model is used for simulating simulation of monochromatic and irregular wave propagation in a channel with a bar-trough profile. FUNWAVE is based upon the extended Boussinesq equations. The study aims to analyze the model's performance when simulating shoaling, wave breaking and nonlinear interactions that are present in nearshore wave propagation. For that, high-order time domain statistics (root mean-square wave height, skewness, asymmetry and the kurtosis) of the model simulations and of the observations were compared along the whole channel. Also, a frequency domain analysis including standard spectral analysis and the bispectrum was carried out in selected points of the flume. The evaluation included the role of the wave breaking internal model parameters. The main conclusion is that, in general, the one-dimensional version of FUNWAVE simulates quite well the nonlinear transformation of a wave over a bottom with a bar-tough profile, for both regular and irregular wave conditions. The model reproduces the transformation of the wave shape, specially the increasing sharper wave crests and flatter troughs and also the lack of vertical symmetry with crests pitching forward, as it propagates along the domain. However, some differences persist after wave breaking, mainly due to the nature of the wave-breaking module. In this module, the energy dissipation is induced by the increase of viscosity, a rather simple mechanism, without the modification of the wave shape. Also, the energy dissipation develops in a smooth way which is appropriated for spilling breaking waves, but not for plunging breaking waves where the dissipation starts more abruptly. 相似文献
15.
In this paper further mathematical analysis on "correlation transfer technique" by Polge el al. is carried out, the tenable conditions and the extent of suitability for the said method are proved as well. In consideration of the influence of skewness of the sea surface elevation on spectral shape, a "quasi-correlation transfer techique" is developed by the modification of the simulated target spectrum. Meanwhile, the numerical simulation of the non-Gaussian process of wind waves is carried out in view of the two conditions of the surface elevation probability distribution and the spectrum. By using its simulated results, the influence of skewness of the sea surface elevation on two parameters in the distribution of wave heights (which had been fitted by using the Weibull distribution) is analysed. The "quasi- correlation tranfer technique" is verified and compared with the selection wave data observed in the Jiaozhou Bay in the period of 1980 to 1981. Results make clear (hat, as far as the statistical d 相似文献
16.
The asymmetry and curtosis for different wave conditions have been computed using experimentally-derived measurement data on sea surface roughness. It is shown that the asymmetry and curtosis values are essentially different from zero and practically do not depend on the slope of waves and their age.Translated by Mikhail M. Trufanov. 相似文献
17.
Noriyuki Iwata 《Journal of Oceanography》1983,39(2):43-52
Backscatter cross-sections of microwaves from the sea surface are calculated by using the facet model and are compared withJonswap '75 experimental results. The principal features obtained are: (1) asymmetry of backscatter cross-sections between upwind and downwind directions is attributable to the modulation of the short gravity-capillary wave spectrum by a larger wave, and the non-Gaussian wave slope distribution has a tendency to cancel this effect, (2) angular spreading of the energy spectrum in the higher frequency range should have a narrower band than a simple cosine distribution, (3) the facet model itself should begin to break down at a larger incident angle than previously supposed. 相似文献
18.
Wave shapes that induce velocity skewness and acceleration asymmetry are usually responsible for onshore sediment transport, whereas undertow and bottom slope effect normally contribute to offshore sediment transport. By incorporating these counteracting driving forces in a phase-averaged manner, the theoretically-based quasi-steady formula of Wang (2007) is modified to predict the magnitude and direction of net cross-shore total load transport under the coaction of wave and current. The predictions show an excellent agreement with the measurement data on medium and fine sand collected by Dohmen-Janssen and Hanes (2002) and Schretlen (2012) in a full-scale wave flume at the Coastal Research Centre in Hannover, Germany. The modified formula can predict the net onshore transport of fine sand in sheet flows. In particular, it can predict the net offshore transport of medium sand in rippled beds through enlarged bed roughness, as well as the net offshore transport of fine-to-coarse sand in sheet flows with the aid of a new criterion to judge the occurrence of net offshore transport. 相似文献
19.
渤海沿岸固定冰粗糙特征的实测研究 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
The surface roughness characteristics(e.g., height and slope) of sea ice are critical for determining the parameters of an electromagnetic scattering, a surface emission and a surface drag coefficients. It is also important in identifying various ice types, retrieval ice thickness, surface temperature and drag coefficients from remote sensing data. The point clouds(a set of points which are usually defined by X, Y, and Z coordinates that represents the external surface of an object on earth) of land fast ice in five in situ sites in the eastern coast Bohai Sea were measured using a laser scanner-Trimble GX during 2011–2012 winter season. Two hundred and fifty profiles selected from the point clouds of different samples have been used to calculate the height root mean square, height skewness, height kurtosis, slope root mean square, slope skewness and slope kurtosis of them. The root mean square of the height, the root mean square of the slope and the correlation length are about 0.090, 0.075 and 11.74 m, respectively. The heights of 150 profiles in three sites manifest the Gaussian distribution and the slopes of total 250 profiles distributed exponentially. In addition, the fractal dimension and power spectral density profiles were calculated. The results show that the fractal dimension of land fast ice in the Bohai Sea is about 1.132. The power spectral densities of 250 profiles can be expressed through an exponential autocorrelation function. 相似文献
20.
Based on the non-Gaussian joint elevation and slope density function developed by Huang et al. (1984), the expected number of threshold crossing at an arbitrary level for a nonlinear wave field is derived. The distribution of the expected threshold crossing per unit time as a function of the crossing level is skewed with respect to the mean water level. This skewness also causes the mean zero crossing per unit time to deviate from the expected frequency of the wave field. 相似文献