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1.
The experimental studies of the breaking effects on wave statistics for deep-water random waves are presented. It is especially focused on the behavior of kurtosis of surface elevations due to wave breaking. Wave breaking suppresses the maximum limit of kurtosis of the surface elevation, although skewness depends on characteristic wave steepness. The mean instantaneous wave steepness of breaking waves defined using the zero-down-crossing method was much lower than expected from the Stokes waves. 相似文献
2.
A characterization of extreme wave parameters during extratropical cyclones in the Northern hemisphere is made from WAM wave model hindcasts. In February 2007 two extratropical storms were observed in the North Atlantic and the wave fields associated with them are modeled in this paper. Wave buoy and satellite altimetry data were used to validate the WAM hindcast results. The distribution of the Benjamin–Feir index (BFI), kurtosis and the ratio of maximum wave height to significant wave height (abnormality index) around the eye of the two extratropical cyclones is studied. It is found that under these conditions the BFI and kurtosis are significantly larger mainly in the fourth quadrant and also when the wind direction is aligned with the wave propagation direction. In these regions the probability of occurrence of abnormal waves is higher. 相似文献
3.
The physical simulation method of wave groups in a wave flume is proposed and verified by the exper- iments. The experimental results demonstrate that random waves with desired wave groupiness, which simultaneously includes the wave group height and length, can be generated satisfactorily at the specified position in a wave flume using the proposed method. Furthermore, the transformation properties of the wave groupiness along the fiat-bottomed wave flume are investigated based on the physically simulated waves. Associated proposals with the physical simulation of wave groups are given. 相似文献
4.
通过波浪水槽实验对大糙率礁面存在下珊瑚礁海岸附近规则波非线性特征参数(偏度、不对称度和厄塞尔数)的变化规律进行了研究。实验采用圆柱体阵列来模拟礁面的粗糙度,测试了一系列规则波工况。结果表明:偏度、不对称度和厄塞尔数的幅值分别在珊瑚礁破碎带结束位置、破碎带内和破碎带开始位置达到最大。3个参数的幅值均随着入射波波高的增大而增大;偏度值随着波浪周期的增大而减小,不对称度幅值和厄塞尔数随着周期的增大而增大;偏度值随着礁坪水深的增大而增大,不对称度幅值和厄塞尔数随着礁坪水深的增大而减小。深水厄塞尔数可以用来描述礁坪上波浪非线性参数的变化,最后给出了用其预测礁坪上3个非线性特征参数的经验关系式。 相似文献
5.
在试验水池中，开展了波浪在岛礁地形上演化问题的研究。首先在实验水池中建立了西太平洋某岛礁地形的模型，然后采用改进的JONSWAP谱，由造波机产生不同周期、波高的随机波浪。试验中观察到了不同类型畸形波生成的过程及不同波面形态的畸形波。对偏度、峰度及水深与畸形波要素Hm/Hs（Hm表示波列中的最大波高， Hs为有效波高）的关系进行了详细的分析，同时，对畸形波波高Hfr与偏度的关也进行了分析。通过对试验结果分析，发现峰度与畸形波要素i>Hm/Hs呈正相关， Hfr增大时相应的偏度也会呈现增大的趋势。此外，水深的变化剧烈时（如斜坡、海山位置）有助于畸形波的发生。 相似文献
6.
通过理论研究定量地说明流向Morison波浪力,即拖曳力和惯性力的高阶统计矩随采样次数增加的规律.主要应用二阶Stokes波理论,推导了流向Morison波浪力的前四阶累积量.计算了作用于实际海底管线上的流向Morison波浪力的偏斜度和峰度.结果表明,随着采样次数的增加,拖曳力和惯性力的偏斜度和峰度驱于收敛.文中给出的方法为后续理论工作奠定了基础. 相似文献
7.
Non-hydrostatic models such as Surface WAves till SHore (SWASH) resolve many of the relevant physics in coastal wave propagation such as dispersion, shoaling, refraction, dissipation and nonlinearity. However, for efficiency, they assume a single-valued surface and therefore do not resolve some aspects of breaking waves such as wave overturning, turbulence generation, and air entrainment. To study the ability of such models to represent nonlinear wave dynamics and statistics in a dissipative surf zone, we compare simulations with SWASH to flume observations of random, unidirectional waves, incident on a 1:30 planar beach. The experimental data includes a wide variation in the incident wave fields, so that model performance can be studied over a large range of wave conditions. Our results show that, without specific calibration, the model accurately predicts second-order bulk parameters such as wave height and period, the details of the spectral evolution, and higher-order statistics, such as skewness and asymmetry of the waves. Monte Carlo simulations show that the model can capture the principal features of the wave probability density function in the surf zone, and that the spectral distribution of dissipation in SWASH is proportional to the frequency squared, which is consistent with observations reported by earlier studies. These results show that relatively efficient non-hydrostatic models such as SWASH can be successfully used to parametrize surf zone wave processes. 相似文献
8.
João Mil-Homens Conceição J.E.M. Fortes António A. Pires-Silva 《Ocean Engineering》2010,37(2-3):236-251
The FUNWAVE model is used for simulating simulation of monochromatic and irregular wave propagation in a channel with a bar-trough profile. FUNWAVE is based upon the extended Boussinesq equations. The study aims to analyze the model's performance when simulating shoaling, wave breaking and nonlinear interactions that are present in nearshore wave propagation. For that, high-order time domain statistics (root mean-square wave height, skewness, asymmetry and the kurtosis) of the model simulations and of the observations were compared along the whole channel. Also, a frequency domain analysis including standard spectral analysis and the bispectrum was carried out in selected points of the flume. The evaluation included the role of the wave breaking internal model parameters. The main conclusion is that, in general, the one-dimensional version of FUNWAVE simulates quite well the nonlinear transformation of a wave over a bottom with a bar-tough profile, for both regular and irregular wave conditions. The model reproduces the transformation of the wave shape, specially the increasing sharper wave crests and flatter troughs and also the lack of vertical symmetry with crests pitching forward, as it propagates along the domain. However, some differences persist after wave breaking, mainly due to the nature of the wave-breaking module. In this module, the energy dissipation is induced by the increase of viscosity, a rather simple mechanism, without the modification of the wave shape. Also, the energy dissipation develops in a smooth way which is appropriated for spilling breaking waves, but not for plunging breaking waves where the dissipation starts more abruptly. 相似文献
9.
《Coastal Engineering》2005,52(7):599-615
The present paper examines the adequacy of different probability density functions to describe the peaks, troughs and peak-to-trough excursions of wind waves measured in the coastal zone of the Bulgarian part of the Black sea. For that purpose various theories for non-Gaussian random process are applied. Some theories depend on the mean, variance and coefficient of skewness γ3 of the process. Others also take the coefficient of kurtosis γ4 into consideration. The analyzed field data are gathered in the coastal zone of the Bulgarian part of the Black sea with depth decreasing from 18 to 1.3 m. The measurements are carried out simultaneously for 11 points with time series of 20 min duration. The coefficients of skewness and kurtosis in those time series are expressed as functions of depth and spectral peak frequency. Analogous dependencies on depth of other parameters are also found. As a result of the investigation it is concluded that the probabilities of occurrence of large wave crests and heights are underpredicted by all of the theories considered. 相似文献
10.
Mitsuhiko Hatori 《Journal of Oceanography》1984,40(1):1-11
Nonlinear properties of wind waves in a wind-wave tunnel are investigated by measuring the probability density distribution of surface elevation. The surface elevation distribution of raw records are found to have a positive skewness (K
3=0.21 to 0.43) and a negative kurtosis (K
4=–0.74 to –0.41) with magnitude depending of fetch and wind speed. The values of skewness are in qualitative agreement with a prediction of the weak interaction theory for a random wave field incorporating the effects of second harmonics (Tayfun, 1980), but the values of kurtosis are different in sign from the prediction.To examine the nonlinear properties of energy containing components, higher harmonic components are excluded from the wave records by using a kind of a band-pass filter. The surface elevation distributions of the filtered waves show a sharp decrease in skewness
, but the distributions remain highly non-Gaussian with a large negative kurtosis almost independent of the fetch and wind speed
. It is concluded that the negative kurtosis is due to the non-random character of the phase and amplitude among the energy containing components, and that nonlinear interactions occur amongst the energy containing frequencies. 相似文献
11.
Based on the filtered Navier-Stokes equations and Smagorinsky turbulence model,a numerical wave flume is developed to investigate the overtopping process of irregular waves over smooth sea dikes.Simulations of fully nonlinear standing wave and regular wave’s run-up on a sea dike are carried out to validate the implementation of the numerical wave flume with wave generation and absorbing modules.To model stationary ergodic stochastic processes,several cases with different random seeds are computed for each specified irregular wave spectrum.It turns out that the statistical mean overtopping discharge shows good agreement with empirical formulas,other numerical results and experimental data. 相似文献
12.
Characteristics of abnormal waves in North Sea storm sea states 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
A data set of storm wave records from the North Sea is analysed. Using current definitions of abnormal waves, eight of the largest wind waves are defined as abnormal waves. Twenty-four of the largest waves in time series, with a height larger than 10 m and with big vertical asymmetry are chosen for further analysis. Their individual characteristics are investigated and related to the global sea state characteristics. A comparison between measured data, second-order theory predictions and offshore basin data is made. The results for the chosen waves do not coincide with predictions of second-order theory. Considering that wind wave is second- and third-order non-linear, a new relationship between skewness and kurtosis is proposed for the sea states in which extremely asymmetric large waves have occurred. Another relationship between kurtosis and abnormality index of maximum waves is proposed too. 相似文献
13.
浅水极限波浪几何特征的实验研究 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
该文通过物理模型实验,对浅水区域内的波浪在破碎前极限状态下的几何特征进行了研究。实验基于JONSWAP谱对不规则波浪进行模拟,通过对波群中出现的单体极限波浪进行捕捉并对波形进行测量而得到研究样本。为了考察底坡因素对极限波浪几何特征的影响,实验共考虑了3组大小分别为β=1/15、1/30以及1/45的地形坡度。统计结果表明,在实验所采用的坡度范围内,当地波高与水深对近岸极限波浪的影响最为显著,随着水深与波高因素变化,极限波浪的几何特征也出现明显的改变。坡度因素对极限波陡和偏度的影响很小,可以被忽略,但是对不对称度参数的影响相对比较明显,坡度越陡,不对称程度越剧烈。最后,通过参数化,本文给出了极限波浪几何特征变化的经验公式。 相似文献
14.
波高非线性概率分布高阶谱数值模型研究 总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2
由于波浪的调制不稳定以及非线性波-波相互作用等因素的存在，波浪的分布会偏离线性假设下瑞利分布的结果。通过使用高阶谱模型对不同初始条件下波浪数值模拟。对统计得到的波高与线性理论下的瑞利分布和考虑非线性下改进的埃奇沃思-瑞利（MER）分布和依据Gram-Charlier展开的分布（GC分布）进行对比。结果表明，深水条件下波浪传播过程中偏度值变化较小，而峰度值出现增长。在较小有效波高值的波况下波高分布符合瑞利分布，但随着有效波高值的增加，波浪的非线性增强，波高分布与考虑非线性影响下的GC和MER分布结果相符。宽谱下的波高分布偏离瑞利分布的程度小于窄谱的情况，波高分布更接近瑞利分布的结果。 相似文献
15.
Linear autoregressive models and non-linear threshold autoregressive (TAR) models are used in the present work to describe the time series of the significant wave height of sea-states at Figueira da Foz, located in the Portuguese coast. The seasonal components of this series are identified and a TAR model with two regimes is proposed. A simulation study was carried out with the purpose of verifying if both the non-linear and linear models are suited to describe the probabilistic structure of the process. It is shown that both methods are adequate to describe the lower statistical moments of the original data, but the non-linear model represents better the skewness and the kurtosis of the data. 相似文献
16.
The definition and subsequent use of dimensional and dimensionless parameters to characterize various nonlinear aspects of ocean surface waves has again become a matter of great interest to the offshore community. The desire to ascertain whether laboratory simulations are adequately representing the surface waves found in the oceans and the concern over the mechanisms behind platform response phenomena, like ringing, has driven this resurgence of interest. This paper presents a depth independent characterization of single design waves, from which improved estimates of localized wave crest front and back slopes follow that are consistent with discrete time series analysis. Characterization of the nature of the entire wave data recorded requires a combination of spectral parameters and probabilistic models in addition to those used in the design wave characterization. A new expression for the direct evaluation of the kurtosis from knowledge of the spectral bandwidth, the relationship between some of the common spectral parameters, and some modified spectral parameters are presented and discussed. Three illustrative examples are presented. The first example provides a detailed examination of wave data measured from a series of random amplitude and random phase tests in a large model basin. The second presents estimates of the various parameters for the Pierson-Moskowitz and Wallops wave spectrum models. The third example investigates the use of the spectral peakedness ratio for comparing data with selected wave spectrum models. The examples illustrate how the formulae can provide a comprehensive local and global parametric characterization of surface wave elevation data. 相似文献
17.
《Ocean Engineering》1999,26(5):401-430
The definition and subsequent use of dimensional and dimensionless parameters to characterize various nonlinear aspects of ocean surface waves has again become a matter of great interest to the offshore community. The desire to ascertain whether laboratory simulations are adequately representing the surface waves found in the oceans and the concern over the mechanisms behind platform response phenomena, like ringing, has driven this resurgence of interest. This paper presents a depth independent characterization of single design waves, from which improved estimates of localized wave crest front and back slopes follow that are consistent with discrete time series analysis. Characterization of the nature of the entire wave data recorded requires a combination of spectral parameters and probabilistic models in addition to those used in the design wave characterization. A new expression for the direct evaluation of the kurtosis from knowledge of the spectral bandwidth, the relationship between some of the common spectral parameters, and some modified spectral parameters are presented and discussed. Three illustrative examples are presented. The first example provides a detailed examination of wave data measured from a series of random amplitude and random phase tests in a large model basin. The second presents estimates of the various parameters for the Pierson-Moskowitz and Wallops wave spectrum models. The third example investigates the use of the spectral peakedness ratio for comparing data with selected wave spectrum models. The examples illustrate how the formulae can provide a comprehensive local and global parametric characterization of surface wave elevation data. 相似文献
18.
自从Longuet-Higgins(1963)根据非线性作用导出较正态分布为准确的波面高度分布以来,高阶矩在军事、高科技等很多方面得到了应用。Huang等(1980)曾检验了高阶非线性分布,他们发现当波高概率分布中包含直至四阶项时与观测结果相符,但如果考虑更高阶不但效果不好,反而更差。尽管非线性随机过程在海浪理论中获得了广泛的应用,但对海面雷达散射研究仅讨论到三阶矩的影响(Fung et al.,1991;Chen et al.,1992)。电磁随机表面散射理论有适应大尺度随机起伏的粗糙面的Kirchhoff散射模式、轻度粗糙表面的微扰散射模式、大小尺度独立叠加的双尺度散射模式、全波散射模式(Bahar,1987)和积分方程散射模式(Chen et al.,1992)等。对随机粗糙Kirchhoff表面电磁波散射问题,尽管几十年来许多科学家已经进行了大量研究(Fung et al.,1991; Ulaby et al.,1982;Wu et al.,1988),Eom等(1983)曾对Gaussian面和非 Gaussian面的散射特性进行了比较研究,Fung等(1991)将Kirchhoff散射模式推广应用到三阶粗糙随机表面,然而更高阶矩对散射截面的影响还未见报道。本文在Fung等(1991)的基础上将Kirchhoff散射模式推广应用到四阶项,并对模式的应用进行了分析和讨论。 相似文献
19.
利用大型水槽设计了在由深水到近岸不同坡度处海浪在变浅作用下诱导产生的长周期重力波的实验。正态随机海浪在深水生成并沿斜坡向浅水传播,记录了不同水深处波面高度随时间的变化过程并进行统计分析和谱分析。实验数据分析结果表明,长周期重力波的能量随着水深的变浅而增高,其谱锋频率位于0.2~0.3fp附近,这里fp是深水正态海浪过程的谱峰频率。长周期重力波的能量与入射波的能量比与波面高度分布的偏度密切相关。进一步分析了两种波动的能量谱峰值比和波面高度分布偏度的相关关系,获得了经验关系,为预测近岸浅水长周期重力波提供了科学依据。 相似文献
20.
基于推板造波理论和摇板造波理论,在Open FOAM平台上采用重叠网格技术建立黏性数值波浪水槽,并使用一种结合SIMPLE算法和PISO算法的PIMPLE算法对数值模型进行求解。利用开发的数值模型通过数值收敛性测试和网格独立性测试分别重点研究了时间步长、库朗数和网格尺寸对数值精度和计算效率的影响。并对比研究了此数值模型分别嵌入层流模型和湍流模型的计算精度和计算效率。实现的规则波和二阶有限振幅波与理论结果和试验结果吻合,验证了此黏性数值波浪水槽的造波和主动消波功能。基于二维数值波浪水槽,进一步研究了三维数值造波,数值计算结果与理论结果吻合良好。研究结果不仅验证了重叠网格在二维和三维两相流体域中求解运动物体与流场交互的可靠性和正确性,而且为使用此黏性数值波浪水槽解决更复杂的海洋工程问题提供了依据。 相似文献