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1.
The eddy viscosities for the steady and the periodic components of combined wave-current flows have been studied quantitatively from the presently available experimental data. It has been found that inside the boundary interaction layer [z < δ] the eddy viscosity εc for the steady flow is increased in the presence of waves while outside the boundary interaction layer [z >δ] it is affected little by the wave motion, and that the eddy viscosity εw for the wave motion in the boundary layer is independent of the current strength U*. On the other hand, a new eddy viscosity model is presented to give a good prediction of the velocity distributions of the waves and currents in comparison with experimental data.  相似文献   

2.
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3.
The seakeeping characteristics of various boom geometries in irregular waves and currents are investigated. The response of a floating boom section on the open sea is a function of a number of parameters, such as boom geometry, distribution of mass, buoyancy/weight ratio, and wave and current characteristics. To understand the relationship between these design parameters more clearly, a series of regular and irregular wave tests were conducted with six different 1:4 scale models for three current velocities and six different wave conditions. To simplify the problem, only rigid boom sections consisting of a buoyancy cylinder and vertical skirt were used. In parallel with this experimental program, a numerical model for the responses of two-dimensional floating boom sections in small-amplitude waves is also developed. The numerical results are compared with our large-scale experimental results. The boom effectiveness on the open sea is evaluated based on the concept of “effective draft” and “effective freeboard” assuming that drainage and oversplashing failures are the prime mechanisms of containment failure. Using the present results, a guideline for the optimum design/selection of future booms is developed.  相似文献   

4.
A new model is presented for the propagation of monochromatic surface waves over a region of arbitrary, one-dimensional bottom topography. The smoothly varying bed profile is divided into a series of shelves separated by abrupt steps. The wave fields on either side of each step are related by a “transfer matrix”, and the propagation of waves along the shelf between adjacent steps is described by a “rotation matrix”. Starting from a point where the surface wavefield is known, the step by step application of the appropriate combination of these matrices allows computation of the wavefield over the region of interest. If the individual steps are small then the transfer matrix reduces to a simpler plane-wave form, with considerable savings in computational effort. Comparisons are made with an exact potential solution for single and double steps in order to investigate the accuracy and validity of the matrix method. Finally, the model is applied to the case of wave reflection by fixed sinusoidal bottom undulations, and good agreement is found between its predictions and existing laboratory data.  相似文献   

5.
A surface panel method is employed for the thin boundary layer calculation of heavily loaded marine propellers in steady state conditions. Employing the surface panel method, known as the “Morino Method”, the flow field around the propeller is represented by an unknown potential. The majority of the flow field is governed by the potential theory while the viscosity is assumed to be largely confined to thin shear layer on the propeller surface. The boundary layer calculations are performed by using Cebeci-Smith two dimensional model and the local skin friction coefficients and blowing velocities are obtained along the pre-computed on-body streamlines. It is shown that the prediction of torque of the propeller is improved when the boundary layer calculations are used instead of the boundary layer corrections based on the formulae established for the flat plates.  相似文献   

6.
Longitudinal dispersion in wave-current-vegetation flow   总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1  
The flow, turbulence, and longitudinal dispersion in wave-current flow through submerged vegetation are experimentally examined. Laboratory experiments are carried out by superimposing progressive waves on a steady flow through simulated submerged vegetation. The resultant wave-current-vegetation interaction shows strong interface shear with increase in the velocity due to the wave-induced drift. The increase in turbulence in the region of vegetation is found to be about twice higher than in the no-wave case due to the additional mixing by wave motions. Solute experiments are conducted to quantify the wave-current-vegetation longitudinal dispersion coefficient (WCVLDC) by the routing method and by defining length and velocity scales for the wave-current-vegetation flow. An empirical expression for the WCVLDC is proposed. Although the increase in vertical diffusivity is observed as compared with bare-bed channels, the shear effect is stronger, which increases the value of the WCVLDC. The study can be a guideline to understand the combined hydrodynamics of waves, current, and vegetation and quantify the longitudinal dispersion therein. Published in Morskoi Gidrofizicheskii Zhurnal, No. 1, pp. 50–67, January–February, 2009.  相似文献   

7.
The resonance period of the L-shaped channel in the caisson is predicted analytically for the seawater exchange breakwater of “Applicability Study of the Seawater Exchange Breakwater (1). Korea Ministry of Maritime Affairs and Fisheries (in Korean) (1999a)”. Hydraulic experiments are conducted for a composite breakwater with a rear reservoir that is one of the seawater exchange breakwaters developed by them. For regular waves, the water surface elevation in the channel and the flow rate through the breakwater are measured. For irregular waves, the flow rate through the breakwater and the reflection coefficient on the breakwater are measured. The resonant maximum values in both the surface elevation and the flow rate, and the resonant minimum values in the reflection coefficient are all at wave periods slightly longer than analytically predicted ones. The measured resonance period for irregular waves is closer to the predicted one than for regular waves. If the resonance period of the L-shaped channel is fitted to the dominant period of incident waves, there would be high efficiency of seawater exchange between inside and outside the harbor.  相似文献   

8.
The present study extends the investigations of the hydrodynamic forces on a cylinder, laid on, or partly buried in the bed. They were determined by measuring the pressure distribution on the cylinder surface in the case of steady current, waves and coexisting flow. The pressure distribution around the cylinder was measured by using pressure transducers, which were replaced in the cylinder. Force coefficients were obtained for the ranges of Re=0.8×104–1.5×104, for steady current, low KC numbers (KC<5) for wave alone case and, for current-to-wave velocity RATIO=0, 3, 6 and infinity (current) for coexisting flow. The forces were also determined for the various burial-depth-to-diameter ratios between 0 and 0.7 values of the cylinder.  相似文献   

9.
Sheet flow and suspension of sand in oscillatory boundary layers   总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1  
after revisionTime-dependent measurements of flow velocities and sediment concentrations were conducted in a large oscillating water tunnel. The measurements were aimed at the flow and sediment dynamics in and above an oscillatory boundary layer in plane bed and sheet-flow conditions. Two asymmetric waves and one sinusoidal wave were imposed using quartz sand with D50 = 0.21 mm. A new electro-resistance probe with a large resolving power was developed for the measurement of the large sediment concentrations in the sheet-flow layer. The measurements revealed a three layer transport system consisting of a pick-up/deposition layer, an upper sheet flow layer and a suspension layer.In the asymmetric wave cases the total net transport was directed “onshore” and was mainly concentrated in the thin sheet flow layer (< 0.5 cm) at the bed. A small net sediment flux was directed “offhore” in the upper suspension layer. The measured flow velocities, sediment concentrations and sedimenl fluxes showed a good qualitative agreement with the results of a (numerical) 1DV boundary-layer flow and transport model. Although the model did not describe all the observed processes in the sheet-flow and suspension layer, the computational results showed a reasonable agreement with measured net transport rates in a wide range of asymmetric wave conditions.  相似文献   

10.
Field measurements of cross-shore currents 0.25 m from the bed were made on two natural beaches under a range of incident wave conditions. The results indicated the presence of a relatively strong, offshore-directed mean current, both within and seaward of the surf zone. Typical velocities within the surf zone were of the order of 0.2–0.3 m/s. This bed return flow, or “undertow”, represents a mass conservation response, returning water seaward that was initially transported onshore in the upper water column, primarily above the trough of the incident waves. The measurements demonstrated that the bed return flow velocity increases with the incident wave height. In addition, the crossshore distribution of the bed return flow is characterised by a mid-surf zone maximum, which exhibits a strong decrease in velocity towards the shoreline and a more gradual decay in the offshore direction. Several bed return flow models based on mass continuity were formulated to predict the cross-shore distribution of the bed return flow under an irregular wave field and were compared with the field data. Best agreement was obtained using shallow water linear wave theory, after including the mass transport associated with unbroken waves. The contribution of the unbroken waves enables net offshore-directed bottom currents to persist outside the region of breaking waves, providing a mechanism, other than rip currents, to transport sediment offshore beyond the surf zone.  相似文献   

11.
Since 1984 the OSCR HF Radar system has been used in over 50 deployments to measure near-shore surface currents for both scientific and engineering applications. The enhanced scope, resolution and accuracy of these measurements have yielded new insights into the tidal, wind and density driven dynamics of the near-shore zone.Tidal current ellipses obtained from these radar measurements have been shown to be in good aggrement with values calculated by numerical models both for the predominant constituents and also for higher harmonics. Coherent patterns of wind-forced currents ahve been determined with strong evidence of a “slab-like” surface response. In one deployment, with offshore winds blowing over relatively deep water, this “slab” rotated clockwise at near-inertial frequency. Strong (up to 20cm s−1), persistent surface residual currents are commonly observed, these are almost certainly generated by (small) horizontal density gradients. These observed surface residuals provide ideal data for rigorous testing of 3-D numerical models.With a threatened rise in sea level, HF Radar is well-suited for observing the expected changes in the dynamics of near-shore regions. Continuing development of these radar systems offers exciting prospects of remote sensing of both surface waves and currents. Future applications may extend beyond the near-shore region to measurements along the shelf-edge, in oceanic gyres and for “beach-processes”.  相似文献   

12.
The Breaking Celerity Index (BCI) is proposed as a new wave breaking criterion for Boussinesq-type equations wave propagation models (BTE).The BCI effectiveness in determining the breaking initiation location has been verified against data from different experimental investigations conducted with incident regular and irregular waves propagating along uniform slope [Utku, M. (1999). “The Relative Trough Froude Number. A New Criteria for Wave Breaking”. Ph.D. Dissertation, Dept. of Civil and Enviromental Engineering, Old Dominion University, Norfolk, VA; Gonsalves Veloso dos Reis, M.T.L. (1992). “Characteristics of waves in the surf zone”. MS Thesis, Department of Civil Engineering, University of Liverpool., Liverpool; Lara, J.L., Losada, I.J., and Liu, P.L.-F. (2006). “Breaking waves over a mild gravel slope: experimental and numerical analysis”. Journal of Geophysical Research, VOL 111, C11019] and barred beaches [Tomasicchio, G.R., and Sancho, F. (2002). “On wave induced undertow at a barred beach”. Proceedings of 28th International Conference on Coastal Engineering, ASCE, New York, 557–569]. The considered experiments were carried out in small-scale and large-scale facilities. In addition, one set of data has been obtained by the use of the COBRAS model based upon the Reynolds Averaged Navier Stokes (RANS) equations [Liu, P.L.-F., Lin, P., Hsu, T., Chang, K., Losada, I.J., Vidal, C., and Sakakiyama, T. (2000). “A Reynolds averaged Navier–Stokes equation model for nonlinear water wave and structure interactions”. Proceedings of Coastal Structures ‘99, Balkema, Rotterdam, 169–174; Losada, I.J., Lara, J.L., and Liu, P.L.-F. (2005). “Numerical simulation based on a RANS model of wave groups on an impermeable slope”. Proceedings of Fifth International Symposium WAVES 2005, Madrid].Numerical simulations have been performed with the 1D-FUNWAVE model [Kirby, J.T., Wei, G., Chen, Q., Kennedy, A.B., and Dalrymple, R.A. (1998). “FUNWAVE 1.0 Fully Nonlinear Boussinesq Wave Model Documentation and User's Manual”. Research Report No CACR-98-06, Center for Applied Coastal Research, University of Delaware, Newark]. With regard to the adopted experimental conditions, the breaking location has been calculated for different trigger mechanisms [Zelt, J.A. (1991). “The run-up of nonbreaking and breaking solitary waves”. Coastal Engineering, 15, 205–246; Kennedy, A.B., Chen, Q., Kirby, J.T., and Dalrymple, R.A. (2000). “Boussinesq modeling of wave transformation, breaking and run-up. I: 1D”. Journal of Waterway, Port, Coastal and Ocean Engineering, 126, 39–47; Utku, M., and Basco, D.R. (2002). “A new criteria for wave breaking based on the Relative Trough Froude Number”. Proceedings of 28th International Conference on Coastal Engineering, ASCE, New York, 258–268] including the proposed BCI.The calculations have shown that BCI gives a better agreement with the physical data with respect to the other trigger criteria, both for spilling and plunging breaking events, with a not negligible reduction of the calculation time.  相似文献   

13.
The normal force coefficient on a flat planing surface having arbitrary heave and pitch motion in two-dimensional flow is compared with the lift coefficient of a thin wing in an infinite fluid. Despite the totally different derivations, they are found to be identical (at large Froude numbers and low trim angles and allowing for the wing's interaction with twice as much fluid) at low reduced frequencies. For higher frequency motions, the wing's angle of attack induced lift and its pitch and heave damping are less than those of a planing surface, but the acceleration terms remain identical. The differences at the higher reduced frequencies are due to the fact that, in invisad irrotational flow, the planning plate cannot leave a vortex wake, whereas a wing does.It seems to follow that the “virtual mass” planing hull analysis can be applied to “quasi-static” problems involving wings and bodies in an infinite fluid without the slenderness restriction originally imposed by Jones (1946). Certainly, it is remarkable that the so called “quasi-steady” forces on a two-dimensional wing can be obtained in a few lines of elementary analysis. On the other hand, the method fails entirely when used to compute the pitching moment on a two-dimensional plate, even though it has been found to give good results for the three-dimensional case (Payne, 1981c).This work is offered as a very incomplete study of an intriguing relationship between two very different bodies of analysis. Much more work will need to be done before the relationship between the two approaches will be fully understood.  相似文献   

14.
Relatively little is known about coherent vortices in the eastern South-Pacific along the Peruvian coast, even with regard to basic facts about their frequency of occurrence, longevity and structure. This study addresses these issues with nearly 15 years of relatively high-resolution satellite altimetry measurements.We first compare two distinct automated methods for eddy identification. The objective validation protocol shows that the rarely-used geometrical or “winding-angle method”, based on the curvature of the streamline functions, is more accurate than the commonly-used “Okubo–Weiss algorithm”, which defines a vortex as a simple connected region with values of Okubo–Weiss parameter weaker than a given threshold.We then investigate vortices off Peru using more than 20,000 mesoscale eddies identified by the winding-angle method. Coherent eddies, characterized by a high ratio of vorticity to deformation rate, are typically formed along the coast and propagate westward at 3–6 cm s−1. The vortices have a mean radius of 80 km, increasing northward, and are most frequently observed off of Chimbote (9°S) and south of San Juan (15°S). The mean eddy lifetime is about 1 month, but if eddies survive at least 2 months, the probability for surviving an additional week (or month) is constant at 90% (or 67%). Anticyclonic eddies tend to propagate northwestward whereas cyclonic vortices migrate southwestward. In general, cyclones and anticyclones are similar, except for eddies surviving at least 6 months. In this case, after a similar 3–4 months of radius and amplitude growth, amplitudes (or sizes) decay particularly rapidly for anticyclonic (or cyclonic) eddies. In terms of intensity, cyclonic eddies show a rapid decay during the first 3 months before arriving at a quasi-constant value, whereas anticyclones exhibit steady decline. Finally, eddy temporal variations were examined at seasonal and interannual scales in the “coastal” region favorable to the formation of energetic mesoscale structures. On seasonal scales, eddy activity is maximal in fall and minimum in spring. At interannual scales, the eddy activity index was maximal during the strong El Niño of 1997–1998 but another strong maximum of eddy activity also occurred late in 2004. These temporal variations are probably associated with the intensification of the upwelling thermal front and with the passage of coastal-trapped waves which generate baroclinic instabilities. Further investigation of the mechanisms involved on the eddy genesis is needed.  相似文献   

15.
A brief history of recognition of the Kuroshio   总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2  
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16.
A hybrid thermal protection method using waste heat from a surface-mounted outboard motor is shown to create a warm “micro-climate” environment for divers. The effects of surface heater capacities, water flow rates, shelter volume and shelter insulation on micro-climate temperatures are characterized. During long, cold-water decompression stops this method offers a reliable, low-cost alternative to surface-supplied hot water suits or diver-carried heating systems. An added bonus for divers using closed-circuit breathing apparatus is prolonged durations of their carbon dioxide scrubbers when surrounded by the warm water “micro-climate”. Closed-circuit and open-circuit options of this diver decompression shelter concept are evaluated.  相似文献   

17.
The paper concerns beach growth by trapping longshore drift to form a protective beach seaward of the principal “weather” breakwater at the Port of Timaru, east coast, South Island. This “spending beach” concept was aproached by evaluating downdrift extension and considerable progradation of an existing accumulation at South Beach which is a product of harbour development since 1879 and which was held in quasi-stability by ongoing extractions of the net surplus littoral drift of coarse sands and gravels (averaging 60,000 m3 yr−1).A one-line model was adapted from sand beach conditions and scaled to the morphology and processes of the mixed sand and gravel beaches at Timaru. Calibration of the model was performed from related research into the rates and temporal pattern of longshore drift on South Beach. A hundred year history of shoreline progradation against the harbour structures was utilised to verify the model.The concept offered a high benefit: cost ratio for a small engineering intervention provided shoreline forms and behaviour could be specified sufficiently for planning, statutory consent, engineering, economic and environmental impact assessment purposes. A 150 m long spur groin near the harbour entrance would trap about 12 ha of sand and gravel in about 8 years. The new shore would be better aligned to the dominant swell and storm waves than the present shore, so reducing long term net drift rates.Construction of the scheme commenced in May 1987 and progress to date is detailed.  相似文献   

18.
A sighting device, called a “probe sight”, is described which simplifies the measurement, taken, from a helicopter, of the float separations from a deployed expendable surface current probe. The separation distance between the floats (along with a known time release) is a measure of the surface current speed. The sighting device can be used at any altitude. Comparisons of the readings using the probe sight and the “normal” measurements taken from aerial photographs for 180 stations in the Chukchi Sea, show that the difference between the two methods is less than 10% when the current speed is greater than 10 cm sec−1. The largest difference (15%) occurs at those stations where the current speed is less than 10 cm sec−1.  相似文献   

19.
We document the accuracy and convergence of solutions for a z-coordinate primitive-equation model of internal tide generation and propagation. The model, which is based on MOM3 numerics, is linearized around a state of rest to facilitate comparison with analytic estimates of baroclinic generation at finite-amplitude topography in a channel forced by barotropic tidal flow at its boundaries. Unlike the analytical model, the numerical model includes mixing of both buoyancy and momentum, and several definitions of “baroclinic conversion” are possible. These are clarified by writing out the energetics of the linearized equations in terms of barotropic kinetic energy, baroclinic kinetic energy, and available potential energy. The tidal conversion computed from the model, defined as the rate of conversion of barotropic kinetic energy into available potential energy, agrees well with analytical predictions. A comparison of different treatments of bottom topography (full-cells, partial-cells, and ghost-cells) indicates that the partial-cell treatment is the most accurate in this application. Convergence studies of flow over a smooth supercritical ridge show that the dissipation along tidal characteristics is, apparently, an integrable singularity. When the ocean bottom is not smooth, the accuracy and convergence of the model depend on the power spectrum of the topography. A numerical experiment suggests that the power spectrum of the resolved topography must roll off faster than k−2 to obtain convergent results from a linear numerical model of this type.  相似文献   

20.
A numerical solution is developed to investigate the generation and propagation of small-amplitude water waves in a semi-infinite rectangular wave basin. The three-dimensional wave field is produced by the prescribed “snake-like” motion of an array of segmented wave generators located along the wall at one end of the tank. The solution technique is based on the boundary element approach and uses an appropriate three-dimensional Green function which explicitly satisfies the tank-wall boundary conditions. The Green function and its derivatives which appear in the integral equation formulation can be shown to be slowly convergent when the source and field points are in close proximity. Therefore, when computing the velocity potentials on the wave generators, the source points are chosen outside the fluid domain, thereby ensuring the rapid convergence of these functions and rendering the integral equations non-singular. Numerical results are shown which illustrate the influence of the various wavemaker and basin parameters on the generated wave field. Finally, the complete wave field produced by the diffraction of oblique waves by a vertical circular cylinder in a basin is presented.  相似文献   

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