共查询到20条相似文献，搜索用时 31 毫秒
1.
This paper provides a practical method by which the drag force on a vegetation field beneath nonlinear random waves can be estimated. This is achieved by using a simple drag formula together with an empirical drag coefficient given by Mendez et al. (Mendez, F.J., Losada, I.J., Losada, M.A., 1999. Hydrodynamics induced by wind waves in a vegetation field. J. Geophys. Res. 104 (C8), 18383–18396). Effects of nonlinear waves are included by using Stokes second order wave theory where the basic harmonic motion is assumed to be a stationary Gaussian narrow–band random process. An example of calculation is also presented. 相似文献
2.
This paper provides an approach by which the scour depth below pipelines in shoaling conditions beneath non-breaking and breaking random waves can be derived. Here the scour depth formula in shoaling conditions for regular non-breaking and breaking waves with normal incidence to the pipeline presented by Cevik and Yüksel [Cevik, E. and Yüksel, Y., (1999). Scour under submarine pipelines in waves in shoaling conditions. ASCE J. Waterw., Port, Coast. Ocean Eng., 125 (1), 9–19.] combined with the wave height distribution including shoaling and breaking waves presented by Mendez et al. [Mendez, F.J., Losada, I.J. and Medina, R., (2004). Transformation model of wave height distribution on planar beaches. Coast. Eng. 50 (3), 97–115.] are used. Moreover, the approach is based on describing the wave motion as a stationary Gaussian narrow-band random process. An example of calculation is also presented. 相似文献
3.
This paper provides a practical method for estimating the drag force on a vegetation field in shoaling conditions beneath non-breaking and breaking random waves. This is achieved by using a simple drag formula based on two empirical drag coefficients given by Méndez et al. (1999) and Méndez and Losada (2004), respectively, in conjunction with a stochastic approach. Here the waves are assumed to be a stationary narrow-band random process and propagating in shallow waters. The effects of shoaling and breaking waves are included by adopting the Méndez et al. (2004) wave height distribution. Results are presented and discussed for different slopes, and an example of calculation is also provided to demonstrate the application of the method. 相似文献
4.
Vegetation canopies control mean and turbulent flow structure as well as surface wave processes in coastal regions. A non-hydrostatic RANS model based on NHWAVE (Ma et al., 2012) is developed to study turbulent mixing, surface wave attenuation and nearshore circulation induced by vegetation. A nonlinear k − ϵ model accounting for vegetation-induced turbulence production is implemented to study turbulent flow within the vegetation field. The model is calibrated and validated using experimental data from vegetated open channel flow, as well as nonbreaking and breaking random wave propagation in vegetation fields. It is found that the drag-related coefficients in the k − ϵ model Cfk and Cfϵ can greatly affect turbulent flow structure, but seldom change the wave attenuation rate. The bulk drag coefficient CD is the major parameter controlling surface wave damping by vegetation canopies. Using the empirical formula of Mendez and Losada (2004), the present model provides accurate predictions of vegetation-induced wave energy dissipation. Wave propagation through a finite patch of vegetation in the surf zone is investigated as well. It is found that the presence of a finite patch of vegetation may generate strong pressure-driven nearshore currents, with an onshore mean flow in the unvegetated zone and an offshore return flow in the vegetated zone. 相似文献
5.
This paper provides a practical method for estimating the drag force on a vegetation field exposed to long-crested (2D) and short-crested (3D) nonlinear random waves. This is achieved by using a simple drag formula together with an empirical drag coefficient given by Mendez et al. (1999), in conjunction with a stochastic approach. Here the waves are assumed to be a stationary narrow-band random process. Effects of nonlinear waves are included by adopting the Forristall (2000) wave crest height distribution representing both 2D and 3D random waves. 相似文献
6.
海浪破碎对海洋上混合层中湍能量收支的影响 总被引：2，自引：1，他引：2
海浪破碎产生一向下输入的湍动能通量,在近海表处形成一湍流生成明显增加的次层,加强了海洋上混合层中的湍流垂向混合。为了研究海浪破碎对混合层中湍能量收支的影响,文中分析了海浪破碎对海洋上混合层中湍流生成的影响机制,采用垂向一维湍封闭混合模式,通过改变湍动能方程的上边界条件,引入了海浪破碎产生的湍动能通量,并分别对不同风速下海浪破碎的影响进行了数值研究,分析了混合层中湍能量收支的变化。当考虑海浪破碎影响时,近海表次层中的垂直扩散项和耗散项都有显著的增加,该次层中被耗散的湍动能占整个混合层中耗散的总的湍能量的92.0%,比无海浪破碎影响的结果增加了近1倍;由于平均流场切变减小,混合层中的湍流剪切生成减小了3.5%,形成一种存在于湍动能的耗散和垂直扩散之间的局部平衡关系。在该次层以下,局部平衡关系与壁层定律的结论一致,即湍动能的剪切生成与耗散相平衡。研究结果表明,海浪破碎在海表产生的湍动能通量影响了海洋上混合层中的各项湍能量收支间的局部平衡关系。 相似文献
7.
8.
基于浅水斜坡地形的物理模型试验数据,考察SWAN模型对实验室小尺度浅水波浪的模拟效果,进而检验其浅水项的模拟精度。模拟中采用直接输入初始测点的实测海浪谱进行造波,重点考察浅水中三波相互作用和变浅破碎两个源项,对不同工况下,SWAN模式在水深条件变化下的有效波高、谱平均周期、海浪谱演化的模拟能力进行研究。研究表明:模拟的有效波高较符合实测波浪的增长和衰减,但谱平均周期计算值明显偏小;海浪谱的能量转移机制同实测有较大区别,频谱模拟结果出现高频高估、低频低估现象。对两个源项进行对比分析得出三波相互作用对海浪谱的能量转换影响远大于变浅破碎耗散。想要提高近岸区谱平均周期和海浪谱的模拟精度则SWAN模型中三波非线性项的计算精确度仍需更多研究和改进。 相似文献
9.
A.J.H.M. Reniers M.J. Groenewegen K.C. Ewans S. Masterton G.S. Stelling J. Meek 《Coastal Engineering》2010
The accuracy of nearshore infragravity wave height model predictions has been investigated using a combination of the spectral short wave evolution model SWAN and a linear 1D SurfBeat model (IDSB). Data recorded by a wave rider located approximately 3.5 km from the coast at 18 m water depth have been used to construct the short wave frequency-directional spectra that are subsequently translated to approximately 8 m water depth with the third generation short wave model SWAN. Next the SWAN-computed frequency-directional spectra are used as input for IDSB to compute the infragravity response in the 0.01 Hz–0.05 Hz frequency range, generated by the transformation of the grouped short waves through the surf zone including bound long waves, leaky waves and edge waves at this depth. Comparison of the computed and measured infragravity waves in 8 m water depth shows an average skill of approximately 80%. Using data from a directional buoy located approximately 70 km offshore as input for the SWAN model results in an average infragravity prediction skill of 47%. This difference in skill is in a large part related to the under prediction of the short wave directional spreading by SWAN. Accounting for the spreading mismatch increases the skill to 70%. Directional analyses of the infragravity waves shows that outgoing infragravity wave heights at 8 m depth are generally over predicted during storm conditions suggesting that dissipation mechanisms in addition to bottom friction such as non-linear energy transfer and long wave breaking may be important. Provided that the infragravity wave reflection at the beach is close to unity and tidal water level modulations are modest, a relatively small computational effort allows for the generation of long-term infragravity data sets at intermediate water depths. These data can subsequently be analyzed to establish infragravity wave height design criteria for engineering facilities exposed to the open ocean, such as nearshore tanker offloading terminals at coastal locations. 相似文献
10.
Wave dissipation characteristics in SWAN (Simulating Waves Nearshore) model are investigated through numerical experiments. It is found that neither the fully developed integral parameters of wind waves (significant wave height and peak frequency) nor the high frequency spectral tail can be well reproduced by the default wave dissipation source terms. A new spectral dissipation source term is proposed, which comprises saturation based dissipation above two times of peak frequency and improved whitecapping dissipation at lower frequency spectrum. The reciprocal wave age (u /c p ) is involved into the whitecapping model to adjust dissipation rate at different wind speed. The Phillips higher frequency saturation parameter in the saturation-based dissipation is no longer taken as a constant, but varies with wave age. Numerical validations demonstrate that both the wind wave generation process and higher frequency spectrum of wind waves can be well simulated by the new wave dissipation term. 相似文献
11.
《Coastal Engineering》1999,36(1):59-85
Simple theoretical models to determine the equilibrium profile shape under breaking and non-breaking waves are presented. For the case of breaking waves, it is assumed that the seaward transport in the undertow is locally balanced by a net vertical sedimentation, so that no bottom changes occur at equilibrium. The parameterization of the water and sediment flux in the surf zone yields a power curve for the equilibrium profile with a power of 2/3, which is in agreement with previous field investigations on surf zone profile shapes. Three different models were developed to derive the profile shape under non-breaking waves, namely (1) a variational formulation where the wave energy dissipation in the bottom boundary layer is minimized over the part of the profile affected by non-breaking waves, (2) an integration of a small-scale sediment transport formula over a wave period where the slope conditions that yield zero net transport determine equilibrium, and (3) a conceptual formulation of mechanisms for onshore and offshore sediment transport where a balance between the mechanisms defines equilibrium conditions. All three models produced equilibrium profile shapes of power-type with the power typically in the range 0.15–0.30. Comparison with field data supported the results obtained indicating different powers for the equilibrium profile shape under breaking and non-breaking waves. 相似文献
12.
M. V. Kosnik V. A. Dulov V. N. Kudryavtsev 《Izvestiya Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics》2010,46(3):369-378
We investigate the role of different physical mechanisms in the generation of the capillary-gravity wind wave spectrum. This
spectrum is calculated by integrating a nonstationary kinetic equation until the solution becomes stready. The mechanisms
of spectrum generation under consideration include three-wave interactions, viscous dissipation, energy influx from wind,
nonlinear dissipation, and the generation of a parasitic capillary ripple. The three-wave interactions are taken into account
as an integral of collisions without additional simplifications. It is shown that the three-wave interactions lead to solution
instability if the kinetic equation takes into account only linear sources. To stabilize the solution, the kinetic equation
should incorporate a nonlinear dissipation term, which in the range of short gravity waves corresponds to energy losses during
wave breaking and microscale wave breaking. In the range of capillary waves, the account of nonlinear dissipation is also
needed to ensure a realistic level of the spectrum for large wind velocities. For the steady-state spectrum, the role of three-wave
interactions remains essential merely in the range of the minimum of phase velocity, where a trough on the curvature spectrum
is formed. At the remaining intervals of the spectrum, the main contribution into the spectral energy balance is provided
by the mechanisms of wave injection, nonlinear dissipation, and the generation of parasitic capillaries. 相似文献
13.
The SWAN model used to study wave evolution in a flume 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
Deborah J. Wood Research Assistant Markus Muttray Research Engineer Professor Hocine Oumeraci 《Ocean Engineering》2001,28(7)
The SWAN numerical model is used to model the evolution of JONSWAP wave spectra and hence the significant wave height of waves in a tank. Comparison with experiment has shown that modelling triad interactions in the numerical model leads to too low predictions of spectra and significant wave height and should therefore be excluded. The modelling of the breaking constant was also investigated, by looking at the use of a constant breaking constant, Nelson formula, and Goda formula (added into SWAN for this study). Using a constant value of 0.78 within SWAN gave the best comparison between theory and experiment. 相似文献
14.
寒潮影响下江苏沿海风浪场数值模拟研究 总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2
基于第三代浅水波浪数值预报模型SWAN,建立自西北太平洋嵌套至东中国海、江苏沿海的三重嵌套模型,对2010年12月12日至15日江苏沿海寒潮大风引起的风浪过程进行了数值模拟研究。利用西北太平洋和江苏沿海实测数据对模型进行了验证,结果表明SWAN嵌套模型能较好地模拟江苏沿海寒潮风浪场的时空分布。通过响水站实测数据对江苏沿海底摩擦系数进行了率定,研究表明选取Collins拖曳理论中摩擦因数C_f=0.001时,有效波高模拟误差相对较小。寒潮风浪场的特征分析表明,有效波高分布与风场分布基本一致,寒潮风浪在江苏沿海北部影响较为显著,辐射沙洲附近由于其特殊地形影响相对较小。 相似文献
15.
Effect of Langmuir circulation (LC) on upper ocean mixing is investigated by a two-way wave-current coupled model. Themodel is coupled of the ocean circulationmodel ROMS (regional ocean modeling system) to the surface wave model SWAN (simulating waves nearshore) via the model-coupling toolkit. The LC already certified its importance by many one-dimensional (1D) research andmechanismanalysis work. This work focuses on inducing LC’s effect in a three-dimensional (3-D) model and applying it to real field modeling. In ROMS, theMellor-Yamada turbulence closuremixing scheme is modified by including LC’s effect. The SWAN imports bathymetry, free surface and current information fromthe ROMS while exports significant wave parameters to the ROMS for Stokes wave computing every 6 s. This coupled model is applied to the South China Sea (SCS) during September 2008 cruise. The results show that LC increasing turbulence and deepening mixed layer depth (MLD) at order of O (10 m) in most of the areas, especially in the north part of SCS where most of our measurements operated. The coupled model further includes wave breaking which will bringsmore energy into water. When LC works together with wave breaking,more energy is transferred into deep layer and accelerates the MLD deepening. In the north part of the SCS, their effects aremore obvious. This is consistent with big wind event in the area of the Zhujiang River Delta. The shallow water depth as another reasonmakes themeasy to influence the oceanmixing as well. 相似文献
16.
The boundary layer characteristics beneath waves transforming on a natural beach are affected by both waves and wave-induced
currents, and their predictability is more difficult and challenging than for those observed over a seabed of uniform depth.
In this research, a first-order boundary layer model is developed to investigate the characteristics of bottom boundary layers
in a wave–current coexisting environment beneath shoaling and breaking waves. The main difference between the present modeling
approach and previous methods is in the mathematical formulation for the mean horizontal pressure gradient term in the governing
equations for the cross-shore wave-induced currents. This term is obtained from the wave-averaged momentum equation, and its
magnitude depends on the balance between the wave excess momentum flux gradient and the hydrostatic pressure gradient due
to spatial variations in the wave field of propagating waves and mean water level fluctuations. A turbulence closure scheme
is used with a modified low Reynolds number k-ε model. The model was validated with two published experimental datasets for normally incident shoaling and breaking waves
over a sloping seabed. For shoaling waves, model results agree well with data for the instantaneous velocity profiles, oscillatory
wave amplitudes, and mean velocity profiles. For breaking waves, a good agreement is obtained between model and data for the
vertical distribution of mean shear stress. In particular, the model reproduced the local onshore mean flow near the bottom
beneath shoaling waves, and the vertically decreasing pattern of mean shear stress beneath breaking waves. These successful
demonstrations for wave–current bottom boundary layers are attributed to a novel formulation of the mean pressure gradient
incorporated in the present model. The proposed new formulation plays an important role in modeling the boundary layer characteristics
beneath shoaling and breaking waves, and ensuring that the present model is applicable to nearshore sediment transport and
morphology evolution. 相似文献
17.
Regional Ocean Modeling System (ROMS v 3.0), a three-dimensional numerical ocean model, was previously enhanced for shallow water applications by including wave-induced radiation stress forcing provided through coupling to wave propagation models (SWAN, REF/DIF). This enhancement made it suitable for surf zone applications as demonstrated using examples of obliquely incident waves on a planar beach and rip current formation in longshore bar trough morphology (Haas and Warner, 2009). In this contribution, we present an update to the coupled model which implements a wave roller model and also a modified method of the radiation stress term based on Mellor (2008, 2011a,b,in press) that includes a vertical distribution which better simulates non-conservative (i.e., wave breaking) processes and appears to be more appropriate for sigma coordinates in very shallow waters where wave breaking conditions dominate. The improvements of the modified model are shown through simulations of several cases that include: (a) obliquely incident spectral waves on a planar beach; (b) obliquely incident spectral waves on a natural barred beach (DUCK'94 experiment); (c) alongshore variable offshore wave forcing on a planar beach; (d) alongshore varying bathymetry with constant offshore wave forcing; and (e) nearshore barred morphology with rip-channels. Quantitative and qualitative comparisons to previous analytical, numerical, laboratory studies and field measurements show that the modified model replicates surf zone recirculation patterns (onshore drift at the surface and undertow at the bottom) more accurately than previous formulations based on radiation stress (Haas and Warner, 2009). The results of the model and test cases are further explored for identifying the forces operating in rip current development and the potential implication for sediment transport and rip channel development. Also, model analysis showed that rip current strength is higher when waves approach at angles of 5° to 10° in comparison to normally incident waves. 相似文献
18.
《Coastal Engineering》2001,43(2):131-148
Four different expressions for wave energy dissipation by bottom friction are intercompared. For this purpose, the SWAN wave model and the wave data set of Lake George (Australia) are used. Three formulations are already present in SWAN (ver. 40.01): the JONSWAP expression, the drag law friction model of Collins and the eddy–viscosity model of Madsen. The eddy–viscosity model of Weber was incorporated into the SWAN code. Using Collins' and Weber's expressions, the depth- and fetch-limited wave growth laws obtained in the nearly idealized situation of Lake George can be reproduced. The wave model has shown the best performance using the formulation of Weber. This formula has some advantages over the other formulations. The expression is based on theoretical and physical principles. The wave height and the peak frequency obtained from the SWAN runs using Weber's bottom friction expression are more consistent with the measurements. The formula of Weber should therefore be preferred when modelling waves in very shallow water. 相似文献
19.
This study investigates the effectiveness of a revised whitecapping source term in the spectral wind wave model SWAN (Simulating WAves Nearshore) that is local in frequency space, nonlinear with respect to the variance density and weakly dependent on the wave age. It is investigated whether this alternative whitecapping expression is able to correct the tendency towards underprediction of period measures that has been identified in the default SWAN model. This whitecapping expression is combined with an alternative wind input source term that is more accurate for young waves than the default expression. The shallow water source terms of bottom friction, depth-induced breaking and triad interaction are left unaltered. It is demonstrated that this alternative source term combination yields improved agreement with fetch- and depth-limited growth curves. Moreover, it is shown, by means of a field case over a shelf sea, that the investigated model corrects the erroneous overprediction of wind-sea energy displayed by the default model under combined swell-sea conditions. For a selection of field cases recorded at two shallow lakes, the investigated model generally improves the agreement with observed spectra and integral parameters. The improvement is most notable in the prediction of period measures. 相似文献
20.
Implementation and evaluation of alternative wave breaking formulas in a coastal spectral wave model 总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2
This paper describes methods and results of research for incorporating four different parameterized wave breaking and dissipation formulas in a coastal wave prediction model. Two formulations assume the breaking energy dissipation to be limited by the Rayleigh distribution, whereas the other two represent the breaking wave energy by a bore model. These four formulations have been implemented in WABED, a directional spectral wave model based on the wave action balance equation with diffraction, reflection, and wave–current interaction capabilities. Four parameterized wave breaking formulations are evaluated in the present study using two high-quality laboratory data sets. The first data set is from a wave transformation experiment at an idealized inlet entrance, representing four incident irregular waves in a slack tide and two steady-state ebb current conditions. The second data set is from a laboratory study of wave propagation over a complex bathymetry with strong wave-induced currents. Numerical simulation results show that with a proper breaking formulation the wave model can reproduce laboratory data for waves propagating over idealized or complicated bathymetries with ambient currents. The extended Goda wave breaking formulation with a truncated Rayleigh distribution, and the Battjes and Janssen formulation with a bore model produced the best agreement between model and data. 相似文献