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1.
The experimental studies of the wave breaking effects on freak wave generation are presented within a finite-depth random wave train in a laboratory wave tank. The main attention is paid to the abnormal index, AI=Hmax/Hs, being used to characterize the freak waves, and the changes of the coefficient due to wave breaking. The results show that the occurence in deep water is larger than that in shallow water.  相似文献   

2.
The experimental studies of the wave breaking effects on freak wave generation are presented within a finite-depth random wave train in a laboratory wave tank. The main attention is paid to the abnormal index,AI=Hmax/Hs,being used to characterize the freak waves,and the changes of the coefficient due to wave breaking. The results show that the occurrence probability of freak wave events in non-breaking waves is much larger than that in breaking waves and such occurrence in deep water is larger than that in ...  相似文献   

3.
Unified Water Gravity Wave Theory and Improved Linear Wave   总被引:2,自引:0,他引:2  
- Based on Least Square Method, this paper presents variational principle for handling various water gravity wave theories and the unified water gravity wave theory was given. By using this variational principle of unified water wave theory, two kinds of improved linear waves were derived. The first one uses the same boundary conditions which were applied to derive 5-order Stokes wave. The second one uses the accurate boundary conditions (Eqs. 11 and 12). The two improved linear waves were compared with the existing linear wave.  相似文献   

4.
根据线性系统理论,首先由给定的靶谱模拟海浪信号,再把此信号转换为造波控制输入信号,最后在水槽中指定的截面处产生具有给定靶谱的随机波。这种模拟方法已在青岛海洋大学物理海洋实验室的大型水槽中实现,并取得良好的效果。  相似文献   

5.
In this paper, the extreme wave loads on an on-shore wave power device are investigated. First, boundary element method is applied to solve the three dimensional potential problem based on the small amplitude wave assumption. Then the motion of the Oscillating Water Column (OWC) inside the device and its laods on the device are calculated in time domain. Several protective techniques often applied are simulated by changing the constraint of the upper end of the chamber of the device. Numerical results are used to judge the effectiveness of these techniques. The investigation shows that damping can not effectively restrain the motion of OWC when the period of incident wave is long, which may cause dangerous loads on the structure. The shut chamber can effectively restrain the motion of OWC, but alternatively cause high pressure in the chamber. A Contracting opening with a Taper (CT) can exhaust a great amount of kinetic energy of OWC, and significantly decrease the loads. It is a promising protective tec  相似文献   

6.
Dependence of Wave Height Distribution on Spectral Width and Wave Steepness   总被引:2,自引:0,他引:2  
In this paper experimental wind wave data are analyzed. It is found that differences in spectral width will give rise to differences in wave height distribution. The effect of spectral width on the distribution is mainly in the high wave range. The effect of wave steepness is in low, medium and high wave ranges. In the high wave range the effect of spectral width is comparable to that of wave steepness. Differences in spectral width in the observations may give rise to discrepancies in the result when wave steepness is the only parameter in the distribution.  相似文献   

7.
-A joint probability density is derived for wavelengths and wave heights.It is asymmetric anddepends only on the spectral bandwidthεdefined by Cartwright and Longuet-Higgins(1956).After that atheoretical probability density for wave steepness is obtained.It tends to Rayleigh distribution asε→0.Acomparison between theorethal steepness distribution and laboratory experiment result shows good agree-ment.  相似文献   

8.
海浪的视景仿真有重要的应用背景与军事意义。文中围绕如何解决海浪的实时视景仿真问题,讨论了基于海浪谱的不同浪级波面的仿真模型,并讨论了海浪的实时视景仿真实现技术。这些模型与技术对于提高海浪仿真实时性与真实性有一定的参考价值。  相似文献   

9.
Based on the Stokes wave theory, the capillary-gravity wave and the interfacial internal wave in two-layer constant depth''s fluid system are investigated. The fluids are assumed to be incompressible, inviscid and irrotational. The third-order Stokes wave solutions are given by using a perturbation method. The results indicate that the third-order solutions depend on the surface tension, the density and the depth of each layer. As expected, the first-order solutions are the linear theoretical results (the small amplitude wave theoretical results). The second-order and the third-order solutions describe the nonlinear modification and the nonlinear interactions. The nonlinear impact appears not only in the n (n≥2) times'' high frequency components, but also in the low frequency components. It is also noted that the wave velocity depends on the wave number, depth, wave amplitude and surface tension.  相似文献   

10.
Numerical Simulation of Wave Height and Wave Set-Up in Nearshore Regions   总被引:2,自引:3,他引:2  
Based on the time dependent mild slope equation including the effect of wave energy dissipation, an expression for the energy dissipation factor is derived in conjunction with the wave energy balance equation, and then a practical method for the simulation of wave height and wave set-up in nearshore regions is presented. The variation of the complex wave amplitude is numerically simulated by use of the parabolic mild slope equation including the effect of wave energy dissipation due to wave breaking. The components of wave radiation stress are calculated subsequently by new expressions for them according to the obtained complex wave amplitude, and then the depth-averaged equation is applied to the calculation of wave set-up due to wave breaking. Numerical results are in good agreement with experimental data, showing that the expression for the energy dissipation factor is reasonable and that the new method is effective for the simulation of wave set-up due to wave breaking in nearshore regions.  相似文献   

11.
群发性是风浪破碎的显著特征,最近的研究表明风浪破碎研究应该基于波群而不是单个波。本文探讨破碎波群区别于非破碎波群的显著特征指标。依据一系列风浪破碎实验数据,采用多种判据与实验现场目测的破碎标记信号相结合的原则划分破碎波群与非破碎波群,考查波群特征量、单个波几何特征量、局地破碎判据指标、波包络几何特征量以及波群能量结构特征量等5大类28个指标在破碎波群与非破碎波群上的分布差异。结果表明:波陡、峰前波陡、瞬时波面斜率、运动学判据指标和动力学判据指标等在破碎非破碎波群上的分布几乎没有交叠;后两者尤为理想,分布明显分离,是破碎波群区别于非破碎波群的显著指标;而其它各指标在破碎波群非破碎波群上的分布都有不同程度的交叠,不能单独依据它们区分破碎波群与非破碎波群。  相似文献   

12.
1.Introduction Owingtoitssignificanteffectofreductionofwaveloadsandwaverun up,theperforatedwallon anarrayofcylindricalstructureshasreceivedconsiderableattentioninrecentyears.Manyresearches havebeencarriedoutinthisfield.Anexactsolutionforthediffractionoflinearwaterwaveswithan arrayofimpermeablecylinderswasfirstgivenbySpringandMonkmeyer(1974)usinganeigenfunction expansionapproach.Subsequently,LintonandEvans(1990)madeamajorsimplificationtothetheo ry,whichallowedthenear fieldquantitiessuchasload…  相似文献   

13.
在实验室风浪槽中观测风浪,发现波群连长是影响波群中波高分布的重要因素,随着波群连长增大,波群中波高分布信息熵增大。当以平均波高无因次化,连长较大时波群中波高累积概率明显大于连长较小时情形。波群中波高分布受谱宽度影响。当谱宽度增大,波群中波高累积概率降低。谱宽度和波群连长对波群中波高累积概率的影响相当。引进体现波群特性的1个无因次化波高参量研究波群中波高累积概率。  相似文献   

14.
A fully nonlinear numerical wave tank (NWT) based on the solution of the σ-transformed Navier-Stokes equation is developed in this study. The numerical wave is generated from the inflow boundary, where the surface elevation and/or velocity are specified by use of the analytical solution or the laboratory data. The Sommerfeld/Orlanski radiation condition in eonjunetion with an artificial damping zone is applied to reduce wave reflection from the outflow boundary. The whole numerical solution procedures are split into three steps, i.e., advection, diffusion and propagation, and a new method, the Lagrange-Euler Method, instead of the MAC or VOF method, is introduced to solve the free surface elevation at the new time step. Several typical wave cases, including solitary waves, regular waves and irregular waves, are simulated in the wave tank. The robustness and accuracy of the NWF are verified by the good agreement between the numerical results and the linear or nonlinear analytical solutions. This research will be further developed by study of wave-wave, wave-current, wave-structure or wave-jet interaction in the future.  相似文献   

15.
The rate of change of wave surface elevation is of much importance in ocean engineering,es-pecially for the determination of the limitation of wave breaking.This paper gives a kind of joint distribu-tion of wave periods and the rate of change of wave surface elevation by means of calculation of the two-or-der to four-order moment of the frequency spectrum based on the linear wave theory.For the first time,the distribution density function of wave periods determined by peaks is provided,and the conclusion isdrawn that the rate of change of wave surface elevation obeys the Rayleigh distribution.  相似文献   

16.
An information system for ocean wave resources and its application to wave power utilizationare indtroduced.It can manage,analyze and process the data in the monthly report of ocean wave observa-tion records of the State Ocean Administration,and can provide various kinds of curves and numericalcharacters of statistics.This system has been put into utility in Guangzhou Institute of Energy Conversion(GIEC),the Chinese Academy of Sciences since 1996.An application example is given of theinverstigation and analysis on ocean wave resource of the Nan Ao Island,Guangdong Province,where a100 kW onshore OWC(oscillating water column)wave power station will be built.The wave power distri-bution is obtained in different wave directions for different wave periods.It is found that 70 percent of thewave power comes from the direction of ENE,and more than 95 percent of the wave power is related withdirection E.The average wave power density is about 3 kW/m,and more than 80 percent of the wavepower is distributed in the  相似文献   

17.
The statistical distribution of wave crest characteristics such as crest length, crest height, joint crest height and length are analyzed based on numerical simulation of 3-D random waves. The effects of directional functions and wave crest defining methods on crest characteristics are also studied.The results show that wave crests are no longer uniform and continuous in directional wave field; the distribution of crest length is obviously influenced by the directional function; the statistics of crest characteristics obtained by the two different methods are almost the same.  相似文献   

18.
Wave Breaker Indices in Finite Water Depth   总被引:2,自引:0,他引:2  
Based on the analysis and comparison of wave breaker indices defined by geometric, kinetic as well as dynamic stabilities and verified by observation, the value a, which is equal to H / Lthkd by Miche's result and may be modified by Goda's results, is" suggested as the wave breaking criteria. The applicable values of a for pure waves or wave-current co-existing field are given in this paper. They are smaller than Miche's result (0.142), and they have been verified by model tests.  相似文献   

19.
SZF型波浪浮标系统   总被引:3,自引:0,他引:3  
文中介绍了SZF型波浪浮标的系统组成、主要工作原理及系统的主要功能,给出了该型号浮标的测量指标及技术参数,介绍了该浮标的应用情况。  相似文献   

20.
简要描述了用压力测波仪进行的几个深海波浪观测计划.指出在高波级条件下,由于缺乏压力测波仪记录转换的理论和实测依据,提供的波浪资料还需进一步验证.并提出使用Seapac2100方向潮流仪和S4方向潮流仪资料处理软件需注意的几个问题.  相似文献   

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