共查询到20条相似文献，搜索用时 46 毫秒
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The experimental studies of the wave breaking effects on freak wave generation are presented within a finite-depth random wave train in a laboratory wave tank. The main attention is paid to the abnormal index,AI=Hmax/Hs,being used to characterize the freak waves,and the changes of the coefficient due to wave breaking. The results show that the occurrence probability of freak wave events in non-breaking waves is much larger than that in breaking waves and such occurrence in deep water is larger than that in ... 相似文献
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Dynamic Analysis of Turret-Moored FPSO System in Freak Wave 总被引：1，自引：1，他引：0
Freak wave is the common wave which has significant wave height and irregular wave shape, and it is easy to damage offshore structure extremely. The FPSOs (Floating Production Storage and Offloading) suffer from the environment loads, including the freak wave. The freak waves were generated based on the improved phase modulation model, and the coupling model of FPSO-SPM (Single Point Mooring) was established by considering internal-turret FPSO and its mooring system. The dynamic response characteristics of both FPSO and SPM affected by the freak wave were analyzed in the time domain. According to the results, the freak waves generated by original phase modulation model mainly affect the 2nd-order wave loads. However, the freak waves which are generated by random frequencies phase modulation model affect both 1st-order and 2nd-order wave loads on FPSO. What is more, compared with the irregular waves, the dynamic responses of mooring system are larger in the freak waves, but its amplitude lags behind the peak of the freak wave. 相似文献
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Freak waves are generated based on the mechanism of wave focusing in a 2D numerical wave tank. To set up the nonlinear numerical wave tank, the Boundary Element Method is used to solve potential flow equations incorporated with fully nonlinear free surface boundary conditions. The nonlinear properties of freak waves, such as high frequency components and wave profile asymmetry, are discussed. The kinematic data, which can be useful for the evaluation of the wave forces exerted on structures to avoid underestimation of linear predictions, are obtained, and discussed, from the simulated results of freak waves. 相似文献
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群发性是风浪破碎的显著特征,最近的研究表明风浪破碎研究应该基于波群而不是单个波。本文探讨破碎波群区别于非破碎波群的显著特征指标。依据一系列风浪破碎实验数据,采用多种判据与实验现场目测的破碎标记信号相结合的原则划分破碎波群与非破碎波群,考查波群特征量、单个波几何特征量、局地破碎判据指标、波包络几何特征量以及波群能量结构特征量等5大类28个指标在破碎波群与非破碎波群上的分布差异。结果表明:波陡、峰前波陡、瞬时波面斜率、运动学判据指标和动力学判据指标等在破碎非破碎波群上的分布几乎没有交叠;后两者尤为理想,分布明显分离,是破碎波群区别于非破碎波群的显著指标;而其它各指标在破碎波群非破碎波群上的分布都有不同程度的交叠,不能单独依据它们区分破碎波群与非破碎波群。 相似文献
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LI Yucheng 《中国海洋工程》2000,14(1):59-67
—An experimental study of regular wave and irregular wave breaking is performed on a gentleslope of 1:200.In the experiment,asymmetry of wave profile is analyzed to determine its effect on wavebreaker indices and to explain the difference between Goda and Nelson about the breaker indices of regu-lar waves on very mild slopes.The study shows that the breaker index of irregular waves is under less influ-ence of bottom slope i,relative water depth d/L_0 and the asymmetry of wave profile than that of regularwaves.The breaker index of regular waves from Goda may be used in the case of irregular waves, whilethe coefficient A should be 0.15.The ratio of irregular wavelength to the length calculated by linear wavetheory is 0.74.Analysis is also made on the waveheight damping coefficient of regular waves after break-ing and on the breaking probability of large irregular waves. 相似文献
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系泊方柱在畸形波与波群伴生波浪作用下运动响应试验研究 总被引：1，自引：1，他引：0
畸形波与波群伴生波浪作用于系泊浮体,和常规随机波浪作用比较,运动响应时频域特征均将发生显著变化。基于物理模型试验,采用小波方法计算伴生波浪和常规随机波浪作用下系泊浮体运动响应的时频域特征变化及波群因子与浮体运动响应时频域特征的定量关系。结果表明:伴生波浪作用下浮体运动响应显著大于常规随机波浪的作用结果,且波群因子G A对浮体运动响应时频域特征有显著影响;伴生波浪作用下浮体纵荡运动的广义能量谱E(t)统计特征值E max(t)、E 1/10(t)、E 1/3(t)、E average(t)均明显大于相同波谱下常规随机波浪的结果,且随着波群因子G A增大显著增大;伴生波浪作用下各运动响应能量集中度δE显著大于常规随机波浪作用结果,且能量集中时域分布范围参数ΔT E以纵荡运动分量最为显著。 相似文献
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畸形波传播速度实验和数值模拟研究 总被引：1，自引：1，他引：0
畸形波的传播速度是其最重要的特征参数之一。研究畸形波的传播速度有助于深入和全面了解畸形波的生成机理及其演化过程,另外还可以用于畸形波的预报。针对现有关于畸形波传播速度计算方法(高阶Stokes波理论近似估算,Hilbert变换和两固定点的距离除以畸形波的波峰经过两点所用时间)的不准确性和局限性,使用32个测点描述畸形波波峰沿波浪水槽的运动轨迹,再用回归分析法估算波峰运动轨迹与时间的相关关系,从而计算出畸形波的传播速度。基于288组物理模拟畸形波和364组数值模拟畸形波传播速度的计算结果,使用回归分析方法得出了畸形波传播速度的半经验半理论计算公式,同时还分析了畸形波传播速度的强非线性特征。 相似文献
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An experimental and numerical study of the freak wave speed 总被引：2，自引：2，他引：0
The propagation speed is one of the most important characteristics for describing freak waves. The research of freak wave speed is not only helpful for understanding the generation mechanism and evolution process of freak waves, but also applicable to the prediction. A stable and accurate method is proposed for the calculation of the freak wave speed, in which physical model tests are carried out to measure the motion of the largest wave crest along the wave tank. The linear regression relationship between the spatial position of the largest wave crest and instantaneous moment is established to calculate the speed of totally 248 cases of experimental freak waves and 312 supplementary cases of numerical freak waves. Based on the calculate results, a semitheoretical and semiempirical formula is proposed by using a regression analysis method to predict the speed of the freak wave, and the nonlinear characteristic of the freak wave speed is also investigated. 相似文献
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Regular wave deformation and breaking on very gende slopes is calculated by Mixed-Eulerian-Lagrangian procedure. The velocity potentials and their normal derivatives on the boundary are calculated through the mixed 0-1 boundary element method. The wave elevation and the potentials of time-stepping integration are detertnined by the 2nd-order Taylor expansion at the nodes of free surface boundary elements. During calculation the x-coordinates of the free surface element nodes are supposed to remain unchanged, i.e. the partial derivatives of wave elevation and potentials with respect to x are considered as zero. The numerical results of asymmetric parameters of breaking waves are verified by experimental study. It is shown that when the wave asymmetry is weak, the maximum horizontal velocity of water particales occurs at the wave peak and, the average ratio of this maximum velocity to wave celerity is 0.96. However, when the wave asymmetry is strong, the maximum horizontal velocity of water particles occu 相似文献
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More and more researches show that neither the critical downward acceleration nor the critical slope of water waves is a universal constant. On the contrary, they vary with particular wave conditions. This fact moders the models either for the probability of wave breaking B or for the whitecap coverage W based on these criteria difficult to apply. In this paper and the one which follows we seek to develop models for the prediction of both B and W based on the kinematical criterion. First, several joint probabihstic distribution functions (PDFs) of wave characteristics are derived, based on which the breaking properties B and W are estimated. The estimation is made on the assumption that a wave breaks ff the horizontal velocity of water particles at its crest exceeds the local wave celerity, and whitecapping occurs in regions of fluid where water particles travel faster than the waves. The consequent B and W depend on wave spectral moments of orders 0 to 4.Then the JONSWAP spectrum is used to represent the fetch-limited sea waves in deep water, so as to relate the probahility of wave breaking and the whitecap coverage with wind parameters. To this end, the time-averaging technique proposed by Glazman (1986) is applied to the estimation of the spectral moments involved, and furthermore, the theoretical models are compared with available observations collected from published literature. From the comparison, the averaging time scale is determined. The final models show that the probability of wave breaking as well as the whitecap coverage depends on the dimensionless fetch. The agreement between these models and the database is reasonable. 相似文献
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Based on the time dependent mild slope equation including the effect of wave energy dissipation, an expression for the energy dissipation factor is derived in conjunction with the wave energy balance equation, and then a practical method for the simulation of wave height and wave set-up in nearshore regions is presented. The variation of the complex wave amplitude is numerically simulated by use of the parabolic mild slope equation including the effect of wave energy dissipation due to wave breaking. The components of wave radiation stress are calculated subsequently by new expressions for them according to the obtained complex wave amplitude, and then the depth-averaged equation is applied to the calculation of wave set-up due to wave breaking. Numerical results are in good agreement with experimental data, showing that the expression for the energy dissipation factor is reasonable and that the new method is effective for the simulation of wave set-up due to wave breaking in nearshore regions. 相似文献
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Efficient Generation of Freak Waves in Laboratory 总被引：3，自引：1，他引：3
In the present study,Kriebel's method is improved to generate freak waves in laboratory.The improved method superposes a random wave train with two transient wave trains to simulate freak wave events in a wave tank.The freak waves are more nonlinear than what generated with Kriebel's method of the same energy.It can also generate freak waves to satisfy all the qualifications of the adopted definition with less energy than Kriebel's and can hardly influence the significant wave height. 相似文献
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An efficient focusing model for generation of freak waves 总被引：1，自引：1，他引：0
Based on the Longuet-Higgins wave model theory, the previews studies have shown that freak waves can be generated in finite space and time successfully. However, as to generating high nonlinear freak waves, the simulation results will be unrealistic. Therefore, a modified phase modulation method for simulating high nonlinear freak waves was developed. The surface elevations of some wave components at certain time and place are positive by modulating the corresponding random initial phases, then the total surface elevation at the focused point is enhanced and furthermore a freak wave event is generated. The new method can not only make the freak wave occur at certain time and place, but also make the simulated wave surface time series satisfy statistical properties of the realistic sea state and keep identical with the target wave spectrum. This numerical approach is of good precision and high efficiency by the comparisons of the simulated freak waves and the recorded freak waves. 相似文献
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基于物理模型试验,考虑畸形波参数、相对板宽、相对波高等影响因素,就畸形波对平顶双层水平板防波堤作用进行研究。首先对畸形波作用下双层水平板的波浪力分布特征进行了讨论,然后就最大波动压强、结构最大总垂向力与不规则波作用进行了对比分析。结果表明,畸形波作用下,双层水平板最大波动压力出现在前端迎浪区域附近,向尾端逐渐递减。双层水平板4个受力面的压力分布不同且有相位差,4个受力面的最大波动压力时间差约在0.1Tp~0.4Tp范围内变化。与不规则波作用比较,畸形波作用没有显著改变波压包络分布特征,但增大了波压包络强度值。试验范围内,就最大总力而言,两者最大总浮托力比值在1.06~2.45间变化;向下的最大总垂向力比值在1.22~2.07之间变化;就波动压力而言,其增大的幅度与畸形波参数α1相关性最强,随α1的增大而增大,在α1=2.04~3.1试验范围内,畸形波作用时的最大压强比不规则波作用时可约增大20%~80%。就最大波吸力而言,两者的比值与畸形波参数α4相关性最强,随α4的增大而减小。在α4=0.62~0.75试验范围内,最大波吸力强度的比值在1.61~0.87范围内变化。当α4≤0.72时,畸形波作用时的最大波吸力大于不规则波作用时的最大波吸力;当α4 > 0.72时则刚好相反。 相似文献
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在试验水池中，开展了波浪在岛礁地形上演化问题的研究。首先在实验水池中建立了西太平洋某岛礁地形的模型，然后采用改进的JONSWAP谱，由造波机产生不同周期、波高的随机波浪。试验中观察到了不同类型畸形波生成的过程及不同波面形态的畸形波。对偏度、峰度及水深与畸形波要素Hm/Hs（Hm表示波列中的最大波高， Hs为有效波高）的关系进行了详细的分析，同时，对畸形波波高Hfr与偏度的关也进行了分析。通过对试验结果分析，发现峰度与畸形波要素i>Hm/Hs呈正相关， Hfr增大时相应的偏度也会呈现增大的趋势。此外，水深的变化剧烈时（如斜坡、海山位置）有助于畸形波的发生。 相似文献
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Large Eddy Simulation for Wave Breaking in the Surf Zone 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
BAI Yuchuan BAI Yuchuan JIANG Changbo SHEN Huanting 《中国海洋工程》2001,(4):541-552
In this paper, (he large eddy simulation method is used combined with the marker and cell method to study the wave propagation or shoaling and breaking process. As wave propagates into shallow water, the shoaling leads lo the increase of wave height, and then at a certain position, the wave will be breaking. The breaking wave is a powerful agent for generating turbulence, which plays an important role in most of the fluid dynamic processes throughout the surf zone, such as transformation of wave energy, generation of near-shore current and diffusion of materials. So a proper numerical model for describing the turbulence effect is needed. In this paper, a revised Smagorinsky subgrid-scale mode! is used to describe the turbulence effect. The present study reveals that the coefficient of the Smagorinsky model for wave propagation or breaking simulation may be taken as a varying function of the water depth and distance away from the wave breaking point. The large eddy simulation model presented in this pape 相似文献