共查询到20条相似文献，搜索用时 15 毫秒
1.
S. Aranuvachapun 《Ocean Engineering》1987,14(2)
Monte Carlo simulation of wave spectra was carried out to provide an assessment of JONSWAP spectral model and parameters. The simulation method is found to be satisfactory because (a) it excludes the spectral variability due to geophysical factors from the sampling errors in the spectral estimates and the statistical uncertainty in determining the model parameters; and (b) the simulated spectra can represent ideal spectral estimates where the sampling errors have been minimized by increasing the degrees of freedom of the spectra. The latter (b) allows both the magnitude of sampling errors to be evaluated and errors due to statistical uncertainty to be isolated. Thus, the stimulation study provides a useful error analysis to assess the JONSWAP spectral model and parameters. For instance, it is found from the results that the sampling errors could be as high as 20% while errors due to uncertainty in determining the model parameter could be as high as 17%. However, the overall errors may be reduced to the minimum of approx. 15% if the simulated spectra have 80 degrees of freedom and constant values of σa and σb i.e. σa = 0.07 and σb = 0.09. This implies that the maximum accuracy of 85% may be achieved in JONSWAP spectral model even though the α parameter has been underestimated by about 1.5%. The overestimated values of γ might come from the underestimated α and the biased φm estimator caused by the statistical uncertainty in the presence of a sharp spectral peak. Although the scale parameters (α and φm) exhibit smaller errors and variability than the shape parameters (ψ, σa and σb), they are more sensitive to the degrees of freedom of the spectra and their estimators are not better than the estimators of shape parameters. The simulation experiments have also shown that simulated spectra at 20–40 degrees of freedom contain a substantial amount of sampling errors. Therefore, the measured wave spectra at the same degrees of freedom (20–40) are not suitable and should not be used for evaluating the accuracy of any wave spectral model. 相似文献
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An extensive database of one-dimensional spectra observed during the passage of hurricanes is examined. Spectra recorded within eight times the radius to maximum winds of the centers of hurricanes are unimodal and remarkably similar to previously recorded fetch limited spectra. Parametric spectral forms such as JONSWAP and that of Donelan et al. approximate the data well. In addition, the functional dependence of the spectral parameters α and γ on the inverse wave age is consistent with that observed under fetch limited conditions. It is concluded that the similarity of the hurricane wave spectra to those observed for simpler fetch limited spectra is largely due to the effects of nonlinear interactions. The shape stabilizing effects of the nonlinear interactions reshape spectra consisting of a mix of swell and wind-sea to conform with typical one-dimensional fetch limited wind-sea forms. 相似文献
4.
Nearshore directional wave measurements by surface-following buoy and acoustic Doppler current profiler 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
Directional energy spectra of nearshore surface waves were measured for a 3-year period (2004–2007) at a site with mean depth 14 m and mean tidal range 2.1 m. Triaxys surface-following wave buoys reported hourly directional wave energy spectra and wave parameters near the offshore end of the Savannah River Entrance Channel, Georgia, USA. An acoustic Doppler current profiler (ADCP) was located beside the wave buoy for 3 months. Directional and non-directional surface wave energy spectra and the corresponding bulk wave parameters (height, period, and direction) are compared for the two systems. Most parameters derived from the spectra agree closely; the most significant differences were found at the upper and lower frequency measurement limits, where signal-to-noise ratios were lower. The wave buoy consistently reports a small amount of energy below 0.05 Hz that does not appear in the ADCP-derived spectra and does not appear to be related to the mooring system. This leads to larger mean and peak periods reported by the buoy. All directional spectra were computed using the Maximum Entropy Method for both instruments, but the buoy, with spectra derived from six independent time series, provides lower directional resolving power than the ADCP, which utilizes twelve time series. Both systems gave similar results defining mean and peak wave directions, with the primary difference being that the ADCP indicates energy to be more tightly concentrated around the peak direction. 相似文献
5.
Fu Yuhua
Senior Engineer China Offshore Oil Development Engineering Corporation P. O. Box Beijing 《中国海洋工程》1995,(3)
- This paper presents the method of determining JONSWAP spectrum by using measured wave data. If Hs, Tz and Tc are the measured significant wave height, average zero-up crossing wave period and average period between wave crests respectively and let y = T Z / TC; this paper provides equation to solve y fromf(y,y) = 0. From the solutions of this equation and by using LSM, the expression relating y as a function of y (for 2.54相似文献
6.
响水近岸海域波浪特性研究 总被引：3，自引：0，他引：3
基于响水波浪站累计一整年的现场观测资料，分析了波高和波周期的年内变化特性，研究了波浪的统计特性和波谱特性，并总结归纳了该海域各特征波要素之间以及各波谱参数之间的转换关系。结果显示:响水海域全年有效波高的变化幅度在0.10~2.80 m之间，年平均值为0.56 m；最大波高的变化幅度在0.15~5.58 m之间，年平均值为0.93 m；平均波周期的变化范围为1.91~9.02 s，年平均值为3.90 s。夏季大波高发生频率明显要小于冬、春季节，波浪季节性变化较为显著。就波高和波周期分布而言，通过拟合得出的Weibull分布较为适合本海域实测波高分布和波周期分布。波谱特性方面，本海域双峰谱占到总数的62.5%，且低频谱峰值普遍高于高频谱峰值，其中低频谱峰出现在0.04 Hz左右，高频谱峰则出现在0.15~0.20 Hz之间，分别为本海域涌浪和风浪所集中的频率区间。采用回归分析方法进一步分析了各特征波要素之间以及各波谱参数之间的关系，发现多数波参数之间存在显著的相关性，但受波浪浅水变形影响，各参数之间的比值与理论深水关系有所区别。本文的研究成果可为沿海建筑物的设计以及防灾减灾提供参考和依据。 相似文献
7.
The characteristics of directional spread parameters at intermediate water depth are investigated based on a cosine power ‘2s' directional spreading model. This is based on wave measurements carried out using a Datawell directional waverider buoy in 23 m water depth. An empirical equation for the frequency dependent directional spreading parameter is presented. Directional spreading function estimated based on the Maximum Entropy Method is compared with those obtained using a cosine power ‘2s' parameter model. A set of empirical equations relating the directional spreading parameter corresponding to the peak of wave spectrum to other wave parameters like significant wave height and period are obtained. It shows that the wave directional spreading at peak wave frequency can be related to the non-linearity parameter, which allows estimation of directional spreading without reference to wind information. 相似文献
8.
Improved form of wind wave frequency spectrum 总被引：5，自引：0，他引：5
Wen Shengchang 《海洋学报(英文版)》1989,8(4):467-483
The lower frequency part of the theoretical wind wave spectrum proposed by the authors (Wen et al. , 1988a, b,c) has been improved and the form of spectrum is appreciably simplified. In addition to the field data collected in the Bohai Sea region and used in the previous papers, those obtained in the Huanghai Sea, the East China Sea and the South China Sea have been employed so that the improved spectra can be verified on a more extensive observational basis. Computed results agree with the observations well. Further comparisons have been made between the proposed spectra and the JONSWAP spectrum. Though the two types of spectrum are close to each other in form, the former shows, as a whole, better agreement with the observation than the latter. By introducing an improved relation between the peak-ness factor and significant wave steepness, the spectrum contains only significant wave height and period as parameters. For spectra given in this form, the computed peak frequencies coincide approximately wit 相似文献
9.
X-波段雷达近海海浪频谱反演的神经网络模型 总被引：2，自引：1，他引：1
X-波段雷达作为国内海浪观测的一种新工具,在海浪频谱获取和有效波高反演方面仍存在较多问题.本文利用非线性回归方法,将现场实测浮标数据频谱和雷达一维图像谱分别与标准频谱模型进行拟合,发现浮标频谱和一维图像谱具有标准频谱的特征,能够较准确地获取相应的谱参数.提出了建立由雷达一维图像谱参数反演海浪频谱参数的神经网络模型,同时在模型中加入影像序列信噪比,进而反演有效波高,并将反演结果与现场实测数据和传统算法(建立影像序列信噪比与有效波高之间的线性回归方程)进行了对比,结果表明,获取谱参数的误差和反演有效波高的平均误差在20％以内,而传统算法计算有效波高平均误差在20％以上. 相似文献
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11.
V. A. Kalmykov 《Physical Oceanography》1996,7(3):159-166
The wave-wave kinetic equation for surface gravity waves in a deep sea is solved numerically, using the Runge-Kutta technique.
Spectral evolution of waves resulted only from their being non-linear, with no wave generation and decaying taking place.
To perform computations the JONSWAP-type frequency spectra and a variety of angular wave spectra were used. The angular spectrum
of waves turned out to be stable. The frequency spectrum differed from the JONSWAP spectrum in that it had a high-frequency
part, which was not similar to the Phillips spectrum. The form of the high-frequency spectral slope was determined as a result
of spectral evolution and proved to have the form of the ‘−6’ law.
Translated by Vladimir A. Puchkin. 相似文献
12.
Paul C. Liu 《Ocean Engineering》1983,10(6):429-441
This paper proposes the following generalized representation for a wind-wave frequency spectrum:
where E = ∫S(f)df is the variance of the surface displacement; fm is the frequency of the spectral peak; and Ci's, i = 1,2,3, are dimensionless parameters that can be determined from the internal spectral parameters of a given spectrum.When applied to 234 sets of wave spectra recorded in the Great Lakes, this representation has been realistic, accurate, and capable of representing widely varied wave processes. The Ci's are clearly related to wave growth processes; they are large during early growth, decrease as waves grow, and reach approximate equilibrium when waves are fully developed. 相似文献
Full-size image (1K)
13.
The stability of the antifer units used on breakwaters in case of irregular placement 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
The primary aim of the study is to experimentally investigate the stability performance of antifer units on the trunk section of breakwaters under the effect of regular and irregular waves in case of irregular placement. The stability performance tests were conducted for different slopes, i.e. cot α=1.25, 1.5, 2.0, 2.5, under irregular waves and for cot α=2.5 under regular waves. Hudson’s formula was employed in order to characterize the stability performance of antifer units for the irregular placement technique. Different representative wave height parameters, i.e. Hs, H1/10 and Hmax, were examined to determine the one best characterizing breakwater stability. Furthermore, the effects of wave period and wave steepness on the stability of the breakwater were explored. 相似文献
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Traditional wave steepness s=H/L does not define steep asymmetric waves in a random sea uniquey. Three additional parameters characterising single zero-downcross waves in a time series are crest front steepness, vertical asymmetry factor and horizontal asymmetry factor. Results for steepness and asymmetry from zero-downcross analysis of wave data obtained from full scale measurements in deep water on the Norwegian continental shelf in 58 time series are presented. The analysis demonstrates clearly the asymmetry of both “extreme waves” and the highest waves. The period and height of the highest waves are also given together with their correlation to spectral parameters. The measured maximum wave heights are also compared with predicted values of maximum wave heights showing good agreement. 相似文献
16.
随机波浪下泰勒离散系数的时域解 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
利用Wolk提出的粒子追踪方程,通过等分频率法划分不规则波谱,利用MATLAB做粒子运动模拟计算,得到无因次化泰勒离散系数K/D随时间t变化的曲线;通过与Huang等得到的P-M谱的泰勒离散系数K/D计算结果比较证明了本计算方法的可靠性。采用该方法研究了不规则波条件下,波序列(同一谱型不同波面序列)和谱型(谱峰周期、有效波高、谱峰升高因子)对波浪离散系数的影响;计算结果表明:同一谱型不同波序列对泰勒纵向离散系数稳定值和稳定时间无影响;不规则波谱峰周期越大,纵向离散系数K/D越小,稳定时间越短;有效波高越大,纵向离散系数K/D越大,稳定时间越长;谱峰升高因子越大,泰勒离散系数K/D越大,稳定时间越长;与规则波相比,不规则波的泰勒离散系数K/D的值略小10%~30%。 相似文献
17.
利用台湾海峡中部2号大浮标2017年全年的实测波浪资料, 对海浪的基本波要素及其与风的相关性、波谱特性进行统计分析, 得出了重要特征波参数之间的回归关系和适合台湾海峡中部的海浪谱形式。研究结果显示: 1) 台湾海峡中部的常浪向是NE向, 强浪向是NNE向, 月均有效波高的变化范围为0.87~2.98m, 7月波高最小, 12月波高最大, 波周期与波高有着相似的月际变化趋势; 2) 主要波浪类型是以风浪为主的混合浪, 谱型上以单峰为主, 波高与风速整体上呈正相关关系, 大浪主要由台风和强劲的东北季风引起; 3) 波浪的平均周期与大部分特征波周期之间具有良好的线性相关性, NNE、NE方向的波浪有效波高和有效波周期线性相关性较强; 4) 相比于Jonswap谱, 规范谱一是更符合本区域的海浪谱模式, 给出了基于有效波高和谱峰周期拟合的规范谱一形式。这些研究成果可为海洋工程设计和波浪数值模拟提供参考。 相似文献
18.
The SWAN model used to study wave evolution in a flume 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
Deborah J. Wood Research Assistant Markus Muttray Research Engineer Professor Hocine Oumeraci 《Ocean Engineering》2001,28(7)
The SWAN numerical model is used to model the evolution of JONSWAP wave spectra and hence the significant wave height of waves in a tank. Comparison with experiment has shown that modelling triad interactions in the numerical model leads to too low predictions of spectra and significant wave height and should therefore be excluded. The modelling of the breaking constant was also investigated, by looking at the use of a constant breaking constant, Nelson formula, and Goda formula (added into SWAN for this study). Using a constant value of 0.78 within SWAN gave the best comparison between theory and experiment. 相似文献
19.
Two models, a spectral refraction model (Longuet-Higgins) and a parabolic equation method (PEM) refraction-diffraction model (Kirby), are used to simulate the propagation of surface gravity waves across the Southern California Bight. The Bight contains numerous offshore islands and shoals and is significantly larger (≈ 300 km by 300 km) than regions typically studied with these models. The effects of complex bathymetry on the transformation of incident wave directional spectra, S0(f,θ0), which are very narrow in both frequency and direction are difficult to model accurately. As S0(f,θ0) becomes broader in both dimensions, agreement between the models improves and the spectra predicted at coastal sites become less sensitive to errors in the bathymetry grid, to tidal changes in the mean water depth, and to uncertainty in S0(f,θ0) itself. The smoothing associated with even relatively narrow (0.01 Hz-5° bandwidth) S0(f,θ0) is usually sufficient to bring the model predictions of shallow water energy into at least qualitative agreement. However, neither model is accurate at highly sheltered sites. The importance of diffraction degrades the predictions of the refraction model, and a positive bias [O (10%) of the deep ocean energy] in the refraction-diffraction model estimates, believed to stem from numerical “noise” (Kirby), may be comparable to the low wave energy. The best agreement between the predicted spectra generally occurs at moderately exposed locations in deeper waters within the Bight, away from shallow water diffractive effects and in the far-field of the islands. In these cases, the differences between the models are small, comparable to the errors caused by tidal fluctuations in water depth as waves propagate across the Bight. The accuracy of predicted energies at these sites is likely to be limited by the uncertainty in specifying S0(f,θ0). 相似文献
20.
M.R.A. van Gent J.S.M. van Thiel de Vries E.M. Coeveld J.H. de Vroeg J. van de Graaff 《Coastal Engineering》2008,55(12):1041-1051
Large-scale physical model tests were performed to quantify the effects of the wave period on dune erosion. Attention was focussed on 2D cross-shore effects in a situation with sandy dunes and extreme water levels and wave conditions. Besides profile measurements, detailed measurements in time and space of water pressure, flow velocities and sediment concentrations were performed in the near near-shore area. It was concluded that a longer wave period leads to a larger dune erosion volume and to a larger landward retreat of the dune face. Tests with double-peaked wave spectra showed that the influence of the spectral shape on dune erosion was best represented by the Tm − 1,0 spectral mean wave period, better than the peak wave period, Tp. The effect of the wave period on dune erosion was implemented in a dune erosion prediction method that estimates erosion volumes during normative storm conditions for the Dutch coast. More details of the measurements and additional analyses of physical processes are described in an accompanying paper by Van Thiel de Vries et al. [Van Thiel de Vries, J.S.M., van Gent, M.R.A., Reniers, A.J.H.M. and Walstra, D.J.R., submitted for publication. Analysis of dune erosion processes in large scale flume experiments, In this volume of Coastal Engineering.]. 相似文献