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1.
For any specific wind speed, waves grow in period, height and length as a function of the wind duration and fetch until maximum values are reached, at which point the waves are considered to be fully developed. Although equations and nomograms exist to predict the parameters of developing waves for shorter fetch or duration conditions at different wind speeds, these either do not incorporate important variables such as the air and water temperature, or do not consider the combined effect of fetch and duration. Here, the wind conditions required for a fully developed sea are calculated from maximum wave heights as determined from the wind speed, together with a published growth law based on the friction velocity. This allows the parameters of developing waves to be estimated for any combination of wind velocity, fetch and duration, while also taking account of atmospheric conditions and water properties. 相似文献
2.
Ｅｆｆｅｃｔ ｏｆ ａｉｒ－ｓｅａ ｔｅｍｐｅｒａｔｕｒｅ ｄｉｆｆｅｒｅｎｃｅ ｏｎ ｔｈｅ ｍｏｍｅｎｔｕｍ ｅｘｃｈａｎｇｅ ｂｅｔｗｅｅｎ ａｉｒ ａｎｄ ｓｅａ ｆｏｒ ｆｅｔｃｈ－ｌｉｍｉｔｅｄ ｃａｓｅｓＣｈｅｎｇＺｈａｎａｎｄＷｕＳｈ... 相似文献
3.
Naoto Ebuchi 《Journal of Oceanography》1999,55(5):575-584
By using wind vector fields observed by the NASA Scatterometer (NSCAT) and significant wave heights observed by the TOPEX/POSEIDON and European Remote Sensing Satellite-2 (ERS-2) altimeters, one-dimensional fetch growth of wind waves has been investigated under conditions of strong wind and high waves caused by the East Asian winter monsoon in the Sea of Japan. The evolution of fetch-limited wind waves can be observed by the altimeters along their ground tracks. The fetch is estimated by using vector wind fields observed by NSCAT. The derived growth characteristics of wind waves are compared with empirical relationships between the non-dimensional fetch and significant wave height proposed by previous studies. Good agreement is discernible with Toba's fetch graph formula normalized by the friction velocity, while Wilson's well-known formula normalized by the wind speed at a height of 10 m tends to underestimate the wave height under such severe conditions of high wind and very long fetch. This discrepancy is explained by the wind-speed dependence of the drag coefficient. A simple correction to Wilson's formula for the high wind conditions is proposed and compared with the observed data. 相似文献
4.
Koji Ueno 《Journal of Oceanography》1998,54(6):641-649
A state of wind waves at a fetch is assumed to be transformed into another state of wind waves at a different fetch by the
renormalization group transformation. The scaling laws for the covariance of water surface displacement and for the one-dimensional
and two-dimensional spectrum and the power law for the growth relation are derived from the fact that the renormalization
group transformation constitutes a semigroup. The scaling relation or the relation among the exponents of the power law is
also derived, using the two assumptions that the renormalization group transformation is applicable to fetch-limited wind
waves and that the saturated range exists, which implies that the directional distribution function of energy in the wave
number region much larger than the peak wave number does not depend on wave number. 相似文献
5.
Adjustment of Wind Waves to Sudden Changes of Wind Speed 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
An experiment was conducted in a small wind-wave facility at the Ocean Engineering Laboratory, California, to address the following question: when the wind speed changes rapidly, how quickly and in what manner do the short wind waves respond? To answer this question we have produced a very rapid change in wind speed between U low (4.6 m s?1) and U high (7.1 m s?1). Water surface elevation and air turbulence were monitored up to a fetch of 5.5 m. The cycle of increasing and decreasing wind speed was repeated 20 times to assure statistical accuracy in the measurement by taking an ensemble mean. In this way, we were able to study in detail the processes by which the young laboratory wind waves adjust to wind speed perturbations. We found that the wind-wave response occurs over two time scales determined by local equilibrium adjustment and fetch adjustment, Δt 1/T = O(10) and Δt 2/T = O(100), respectively, in the current tank. The steady state is characterized by a constant non-dimensional wave height (H/gT 2 or equivalently, the wave steepness for linear gravity waves) depending on wind speed. This equilibrium state was found in our non-steady experiments to apply at all fetches, even during the long transition to steady state, but only after a short initial relaxation Δt 1/T of O(10) following a sudden change in wind speed. The complete transition to the new steady state takes much longer, Δt 2/T of O(100) at the largest fetch, during which time energy propagates over the entire fetch along the rays (dx/dt = c g) and grows under the influence of wind pumping. At the same time, frequency downshifts. Although the current study is limited in scale variations, we believe that the suggestion that the two adjustment time scales are related to local equilibrium adjustment and fetch adjustment is also applicable to the ocean. 相似文献
6.
在实验室风浪水槽中进行纯风浪和混合浪波面位移观测,研究波长较长的规则波对风浪能量的影响.本文用混合浪和纯风浪中的风浪显著波的零阶谱矩之比代表混合浪中的风浪与纯风浪能量之比,并以此表征涌浪对风浪能量的影响.研究了该能量比随涌浪波陡S、风区x、波龄倒数u/C、涌浪频率与纯风浪谱峰频率之比fs/fwp的变化规律.结果表明,涌浪对风浪能量的抑制作用随涌浪波陡的增加、波龄倒数的增大及涌浪频率与纯风浪谱峰频率之比的增大而增强.发现该能量比依赖于无因次量R=(1+80(πS)2)1.9(fs/fwp)0.9(u/C)0.27,并拟合得到2者的经验关系.此外,本文实验还发现,在某些情况下,涌浪的存在使风浪能量增加. 相似文献
7.
Effect of Langmuir circulation (LC) on upper ocean mixing is investigated by a two-way wave-current coupled model. Themodel is coupled of the ocean circulationmodel ROMS (regional ocean modeling system) to the surface wave model SWAN (simulating waves nearshore) via the model-coupling toolkit. The LC already certified its importance by many one-dimensional (1D) research andmechanismanalysis work. This work focuses on inducing LC’s effect in a three-dimensional (3-D) model and applying it to real field modeling. In ROMS, theMellor-Yamada turbulence closuremixing scheme is modified by including LC’s effect. The SWAN imports bathymetry, free surface and current information fromthe ROMS while exports significant wave parameters to the ROMS for Stokes wave computing every 6 s. This coupled model is applied to the South China Sea (SCS) during September 2008 cruise. The results show that LC increasing turbulence and deepening mixed layer depth (MLD) at order of O (10 m) in most of the areas, especially in the north part of SCS where most of our measurements operated. The coupled model further includes wave breaking which will bringsmore energy into water. When LC works together with wave breaking,more energy is transferred into deep layer and accelerates the MLD deepening. In the north part of the SCS, their effects aremore obvious. This is consistent with big wind event in the area of the Zhujiang River Delta. The shallow water depth as another reasonmakes themeasy to influence the oceanmixing as well. 相似文献
8.
A one-dimensional mixed-layer model, including a Mellor-Yamada level 2.5 turbulence closure scheme, was implemented to investigate the dynamical and thermal structures of the ocean surface mixed layer in the northern South China Sea. The turbulent kinetic energy released through wave breaking was incorporated into the model as a source of energy at the ocean surface, and the influence of the breaking waves on the mixed layer was studied. The numerical simulations show that the simulated SST is overestimated in summer without the breaking waves. However, the cooler SST is simulated when the effect of the breaking waves is considered, the corresponding discrepancy with the observed data decreases up to 20% and the MLD calculated averagely deepens 3.8 m. Owing to the wave-enhanced turbulence mixing in the summertime, the stratification at the bottom of the mixed layer was modified and the temperature gradient spread throughout the whole thermocline compared with the concentrated distribution without wave breaking. 相似文献
9.
海洋是多尺度强迫-耗散系统,机械能主要在大尺度输入,在小尺度耗散。在大、中尺度运动的能量向小尺度湍流传递过程中,内波扮演着重要角色。内波的生成和破碎可打破海洋动力平衡,而在陆架区,内波（主要是内孤立波）的浅化演变与耗散则是驱动湍流混合的关键过程。通过长期的理论、观测与数值模拟研究,目前已认识到内波浅化过程中主要发生如下演变：波形调制、极性转变、裂变、破碎与耗散。相较于直接发生破碎,浅化演变过程中的裂变及其引发的剪切不稳定和对流不稳定是内孤立波在陆架区的主要耗散机制,显著调制陆架区的跃层混合。从能量串级的角度讲,内孤立波浅化裂变为动力不稳定的高频内波是潮能串级的重要通道。本文简要回顾南海北部陆架区内波的研究历史,并着重总结内波在陆架区演变与耗散机制的研究进展。 相似文献
10.
The turbulent motions responsible for ocean mixing occur on scales much smaller than those resolved in numerical simulations
of oceanic flows. Great progress has been made in understanding the sources of energy for mixing, the mechanisms, and the
rates. On the other hand, we still do not have adequate answers to first order questions such as the extent to which the thermohaline
circulation of the ocean, and hence the earth's climate, is sensitive to the present mixing rates in the ocean interior. Internal
waves, generated by either wind or flow over topography, appear to be the principle cause of mixing. Mean and eddy flows over
topography generate internal lee waves, while tidal flows over topography generate internal tides. The relative importance
of these different internal wave sources is unknown. There are also great uncertainties about the spatial and temporal variation
of mixing. Calculations of internal tide generation are becoming increasingly robust, but we do not know enough about the
subsequent behavior of internal tides and their eventual breakdown into turbulence. It does seem, however, that most internal
tide energy flux is radiated away from generation sites as low modes that propagate over basin scales. The mechanisms of wave-wave
interaction and topographic scattering both act to transfer wave energy from low modes to smaller dissipative scales.
This revised version was published online in August 2006 with corrections to the Cover Date. 相似文献
11.
12.
研究大型风浪水槽的风浪统计特征，采用多通道测波系统，同步采集沿水槽的１２个测点在不同风速下的风浪数据，从观测事实上分析风浪波面分布和有关要素特征，并建立水槽风浪统计要素与风速，风区长度之间的关系 相似文献
13.
Ikuo Yoshikawa Hiroshi Kawamura Kuniaki Okuda Yoshiaki Toba 《Journal of Oceanography》1988,44(3):143-156
The structure of the turbulent boundary layer underneath laboratory wind waves was studied by using a combination of a high-sensitivity thermometer array with a two-component sonic flowmeter. The temperature fluctuations are used to detect movements of water parcels, with temperature as a passive quantity. The turbulence energy was dominant in the frequency range (0.01 0.1 Hz), which was much smaller than the wind-wave frequency (2 5 Hz), and in which the turbulence was anisotropic. There was a frequency range (0.2 2 Hz for velocity, 0.2 5 Hz for temperature fluctuation) where the turbulence was isotropic and had a –5/3 slope in the energy spectrum. These points are the same as those in previous works. However, by analyses of the time series by using a variable-interval time-averaging technique (VITA), it has been found that conspicuous events in this main turbulence energy band are the downward bursting from the vicinity of the water surface. Thus the structure of the water layer underneath the wind waves has characters which are similar to the familiar turbulent boundary layer over a rough solid wall, as already conceived. It has been found that, at the same time, the turbulence energy can be related to quantities of the wind waves (the root mean squared water level fluctuation and the wave peak frequency), for different wind and wave conditions. That is, the turbulence underneath the wind waves develops under a close coupling with the wind waves. 相似文献
14.
Accurately estimating the mean and extreme wave statistics and better understanding their directional and seasonal variations are of great importance in the planning and designing of ocean and coastal engineering works. Due to the lack of long-term wave measurement data, the analysis of extreme waves is often based on the numerical wave hind-casting results. In this study, the wave climate in the East China Seas (including the Bohai Sea, the Yellow Sea and the East China Sea) for the past 35 years (1979–2013) is hind-casted using a third generation wave model – WAMC4 (Cycle 4 version of WAM model). Two sets of reanalysis wind data from NCEP (National Centers for Environmental Prediction, USA) and ECMWF (European Centre for Medium-range Weather Forecasts) are used to drive the wave model to generate the long-term wave climate. The hind-casted waves are then analysed to study the mean and extreme wave statistics in the study area. The results show that the mean wave heights decrease from south to north and from sea to land in general. The extreme wave heights with return periods of 50 and 100 years in the summer and autumn seasons are significantly higher than those in the other two seasons, mainly due to the effect of typhoon events. The mean wave heights in the winter season have the highest values, mainly due to the effect of winter monsoon winds. The comparison of extreme wave statistics from both wind fields with the field measurements at several nearshore wave observation stations shows that the extreme waves generated by the ECMWF winds are better than those generated by the NCEP winds. The comparison also shows the extreme waves in deep waters are better reproduced than those in shallow waters, which is partly attributed to the limitations of the wave model used. The results presented in this paper provide useful insight into the wave climate in the area of the East China Seas, as well as the effect of wind data resolution on the simulation of long-term waves. 相似文献
15.
Jin-Bao Song 《Deep Sea Research Part I: Oceanographic Research Papers》2009,56(5):659-671
The response of near-surface current profiles to wind and random surface waves are studied based on the approach of Jenkins [1989. The use of a wave prediction model for driving a near surface current model. Dtsch. Hydrogr. Z. 42, 134–149] and Tang et al. [2007. Observation and modeling of surface currents on the Grand Banks: a study of the wave effects on surface currents. J. Geophys. Res. 112, C10025, doi:10.1029/2006JC004028]. Analytic steady solutions are presented for wave-modified Ekman equations resulting from Stokes drift, wind input and wave dissipation for a depth-independent constant eddy viscosity coefficient and one that varies linearly with depth. The parameters involved in the solutions can be determined by the two-dimensional wavenumber spectrum of ocean waves, wind speed, the Coriolis parameter and the densities of air and water, and the solutions reduce to those of Lewis and Belcher [2004. Time-dependent, coupled, Ekman boundary layer solutions incorporating Stokes drift. Dyn. Atmos. Oceans. 37, 313–351] when only the effects of Stokes drift are included. As illustrative examples, for a fully developed wind-generated sea with different wind speeds, wave-modified current profiles are calculated and compared with the classical Ekman theory and Lewis and Belcher's [2004. Time-dependent, coupled, Ekman boundary layer solutions incorporating Stokes drift. Dyn. Atmos. Oceans 37, 313–351] modification by using the Donelan and Pierson [1987. Radar scattering and equilibrium ranges in wind-generated waves with application to scatterometry. J. Geophys. Res. 92, 4971–5029] wavenumber spectrum, the WAM wave model formulation for wind input energy to waves, and wave energy dissipation converted to currents. Illustrative examples for a fully developed sea and the comparisons between observations and the theoretical predictions demonstrate that the effects of the random surface waves on the classical Ekman current are important, as they change qualitatively the nature of the Ekman layer. But the effects of the wind input and wave dissipation on surface current are small, relative to the impact of the Stokes drift. 相似文献
16.
Yoshiaki Toba 《Journal of Oceanography》1972,28(3):109-120
A new growth equation for wind waves of simple spectrum is presented upon three basic concepts. The period and the wave height of significant waves in dimensionless forms, which are considered to correspond to the peak frequency and the energy level, respectively, are used as representative quantities of wind waves. One of the three basic concepts is the concept of local balance, and the other two concern the acquisition of wave energy and the dissipation of wave energy, respectively. It is shown from some actual data that the equation, together with two universal constants concerning the acquisition and the dissipation of wave energy (B=6.2×10?2 andK=2.16×10?5, respectively), is applied universally to wide ranges of wind waves from those in a wind-wave tunnel to fully developed sea in the open ocean. “The three-second power law for wind waves of simple spectrum”, and a few relations as the lemmas, are derived, such that the mean surface transport due to the orbital motion of wind waves is always proportional to the friction velocity in wind, and that the steepness is inversely proportional to the root of the wave age. It is also derived that the portion of wind stress which directly enters the wind waves decreases exponentially with increasing wave age and is 7.5 % of the total wind stress for very young waves. Also, equations are presented as to the increase of momentum of drift current, and as to the supply of turbulent energy by wind waves into the upper ocean. 相似文献
17.
对已有根据观测提出的幂函数形式风浪成长关系进行了分析。发现这些风浪成长关系在消去无因次风区后一致地与3／2指数律相协调，尽管它们原来存在较大的不协调性。发现Jeffreys，Sverdrup和Munk以及Platit的风能输入源函数在谱积分意义下具有相似性，而Tsikunov，Hasselmann和Phillips的破波耗散源函数在谱积分意义下也具有相似性，尽管这些源函数的原始形式和物理背景显著地不同。利用有效波能量平衡方程，将3／2指数律和发现的风能输入及破波耗散源函数相似性相结合，提出了深水风浪随风区成长的分式指数律，以得到的分式指数律拟合已有基于观测提出的风浪成长关系提出了半经验的风浪成长关系，与已有观测数据符合。 相似文献
18.
A new model developed from the full-spectrum model of Lyzenga and Bennett （ 1988 ） is built up by us preliminarily through considering the impact of the ocean surface mixed layer turbulence on SAR remote sensing of internal solitary waves. In the partial differential equation of the action spectral density of the surface gravity-capillary waves the source function representing the contribution of the turbulence is added besides the usual source function representing the contribution of the wind. The source function is determined by applying the κ - ε model and adopting the Nasmyth spectrum of oceanic turbulence （ Nasmyth, 1970; Oakey, 1982; Fan, 2002） on the basis of the previous simulation results of internal tide transformation obtained in the companion paper （Fan et al. ,2008）. Either under relatively high wind speed, or under low wind speed, our model predicts significant large modulations of radar backscatter at all three bands （ L, C and X bands） for both VV and HH polarization. These results prove that considering the impact of ocean surface mixed layer turbulence on SAR remote sensing of internal solitary waves is reasonable and appropriate for settlement of the well-known problem of contemporary radar imaging models. 相似文献
19.
Surface waves are the roughness element of the ocean surface. The parameterization of the drag coefficient of the ocean surface is simplified by referencing to wind speed at an elevation proportional to the characteristic wavelength. The dynamic roughness is analytically related to the drag coefficient. Under the assumption of fetch limited wave growth condition, various empirical functions of the dynamic roughness can be converted to equivalent expressions for comparison. For datasets covering a wide range of the dimensionless frequency (inverse wave age), it is important to account for the variable rate of wave development at different wave ages. As a result, the dependence of the Charnock parameter on wave age is nonmonotonic. Finally, the analysis presented here suggests that the significant wave steepness is a sensitive property of the ocean surface and a single variable normalization of the dynamic roughness using a wavelength or wave height parameter actually produces more robust functions than bi-variable normalizations using wave height and wave slope. 相似文献
20.
A method for the prediction of ocean waves was developed on the basis of the single-parameter growth equation of wind waves, proposed byToba (1978) on the basis of similarity in growing wind waves. The applicability of the method to actual problems was tested by hindcasting the wave characteristics with the method, for two cases with differing time and space scales, one in Kii Channel Approach, Japan, and the other in the North Atlantic Ocean. The results showed that the present method can predict waves within an error of 1.3 m in wave heights, which ranged from 3 to 12 m. 相似文献