共查询到18条相似文献，搜索用时 171 毫秒
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论风浪的局域结构：II.风浪局域小波能谱的性质及应用 总被引：3，自引：0，他引：3
引入了局域小波能谱的局域间歇性度量,分析了不同风速下的风浪资料,结果表明,局域小波能谱可依局域频率分为三部分,风浪的群性在三维局域小波能谱团像下显示得更为明显,与风浪有关的一切性质都是局域的,包括风浪的群性,讨论了局域小波谱峰值与谱峰频率的涨落,指出了前者在工程设计中的重要意义,并发现了后者与风浪破碎有关的两种非线性现象。 相似文献
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海滩碎波带波能振荡的多尺度分析 总被引：4，自引：0，他引：4
对不同波况条件下实测的一岬间海滩碎波带两个上的波面数据,通过小波变换方法计算了小波谱,并作了显性检验。结果表明：（１）碎波带波能存在典型的多尺度振荡特性;（２）在正常波况下,波能主要分布于风浪频域,入射波自外测站向内测站传播过程中,能量具有向低频方向转移的趋势;（３）在高能波况下,能量均向长重力波频带增加,在长力波显尺度,二测站之间存在良好的位相一致关系。 相似文献
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风浪状态参数常用于对海面粗糙度的参数化。中等风速条件下考虑风浪状态参数影响的海面粗糙度参数化方案常存在自相关效应,本文通过分析实测数据得到了无量纲粗糙度随波陡变化的参数化方案,该方案能够有效去除自相关效应;高风速下风浪状态对海面粗糙度仍存在影响,文中基于新得出的中等风速下的海面粗糙度参数化方案,考虑海面飞沫悬浮层的影响,建立了适用于高风速条件下的海面粗糙度参数化方案,该海面粗糙度方案同样考虑了波陡的作用,将该方案计算出的理论值与实测数据进行比对,发现随着波陡的变化,理论值基本涉及测量值的覆盖范围,说明新建立的高风速条件下海面粗糙度方案对海面风浪状态具有较好的敏感性,且该方案能够较合理地描述海气界面之间动量传输。将新提出的适用于高风速下的海面粗糙度方案加入到海浪数值模式中,模拟飓风Ivan产生的台风浪,利用浮标数据进行验证,结果显示模拟的有效波高相对模式默认方案具有较高的精度,说明采用本文新建立的适合高风速的海面粗糙度方案能够改进海浪模式的台风浪有效波高模拟结果。 相似文献
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对不同波况条件下实测的一岬间海滩碎波带两个测站的波面数据 ,通过小波变换方法计算了小波能谱 ,并作了显著性检验。结果表明 :( 1 )碎波带波能存在典型的多尺度振荡特性 ;( 2 )在正常波况下 ,波能主要分布于风浪频域 ,入射波自外测站向内测站传播过程中 ,能量具有向低频方向转移的趋势 ;( 3)在高能波况下 ,能量均向长重力波频带增加 ,在长重力波显著尺度 ,二测站之间存在良好的位相一致关系 相似文献
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利用新近提出的海面风应力系数线性参数化理论,定性地分析了已有风应力和风浪的观测数据。分析发现这些观测数据表明在小波陡的情形下海面风应力系数随风速的变化较大波陡的情形更加迅速。结果定性地倾向于支持Toba等的结果,即成熟的风浪较年轻的风浪更加粗糙。 相似文献
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台风波浪数值预报的CHGS法 Ⅰ.成长过程中的海浪谱 总被引：3，自引：1，他引：3
文章指出,由于台风风场中风速、风向随时间和空间急速地变化,越近台风中心风速越大、风区越短、风时越小,风浪就越是不可能充分成长。所以在台风浪数值计算工作中不能使用充分成长的海浪谱模式。作者等在最近提出的台风波浪数值预报方法(以CHGS表示)中,建立了一种成长海浪谱模式(如文中(2)式),该模式中包含了标志着风浪成长程度的参数——平均波龄β。当β值较小时,波浪的能量主要集中在谱的峰值频率附近,使谱峰高而陡,随着β的增大,谱形逐渐变得低矮坦缓,当β=1时波浪充分成长,成长谱转变成了充分成长的P-M谱。该模式还表现出了谱在“平衡域”内的“超射”现象。 相似文献
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Ｆｌｕｃｔｕａｔｉｏｎｓ ｏｆ ｐｅａｋ ｅｎｅｒｇｙ ａｎｄ ｐｅａｋ ｆｒｅｑｕｅｎｃｙ ｏ ｌｏｃａｌ ｗａｖｅｌｅｔ ｅｎｅｒｇｙ ｓｐｅｃｔｒｕｍ ｆｏｒ ｗｉｎｄ ｗａｖｅｓTXＦｌｕｃｔｕａｔｉｏｎｓｏｆｐｅａｋｅｎｅｒｇｙａｎｄｐｅａｋ... 相似文献
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In the present study,the surface elevation of wind waves oberved in laboratory and in the Bohai Sea are adopted for the estimation of the wind wave frequency spectrum by use of the method of the arcsine law(MAL).The traditional method uses the surface elevation to calculate the correlation and then estimate the frequency spectrum while the MAL,presented by Yu and Lan(1979),uses the time sequence of zero-crossing points of surface elevation rather than directly the surface elevation to calculate the correlation.66 sets of wind wave data obtained in laboratory and 420 sets of data observed in the Bohai Sea are adopted for the examination of the method introduced by Yu and Lan.Results show that the MAL can give reliable estimation of wind wave spectra.Correlation and form of spectra estimated by the MAL are similar to those estimated by the traditional method.The peak frequency and the spectral density in peak frequency by the MAL are close to those obtained by the traditional method. 相似文献
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基于拟层流风波生成机制的海浪谱模型 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
海浪谱的能量可以视为由具有不同相速度的谐波携带的能量所组成。基于对风波形成、发展过程的认识,认为各组成谐波的能量由谐波自平均风摄取而来,由此根据拟层流模型推导出谐波能量密度的计算公式,建立以等效风速和峰值频率等为基本参数的海浪谱模型——随机Fourier函数模型,并给出了确定谐波频率、波长、相速度、振幅以及等效风速等模型参数的原则和计算方法。在59个实测样本谱基础上,采用随机建模方法确定模型参数的取值及其概率分布。结果表明,海浪谱模型可以很好地预测谱能,所计算的物理谱与实测谱均值吻合良好。 相似文献
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Sui Shifeng 《海洋学报(英文版)》1990,9(3):343-352
Owing to the fact that the wind speed and direction of typhoon vary rapidly with time and space in typhoon fetch; the nearer to the typhoon eye the greater the wind velocity, and the shorter the wind fetch the smaller the wind time,as a result,the more difficult for the wind wave to fully grow. Hence.in typhoon wave numerical calculation it is impossible to use the model for a fully grown wave spectrum. Lately, the author et at. presented a CHGS method for numerical forecasting of typhoon waves, where a model for the growing wave spectrum was set up (see Eq. (2) in the text). The model involves a parameter indicating the growing degree of wind wave, i. e. ,the mean wave age β. When βvalue is small, the wave energy is chiefly concentrated near the peak frequency, so that the spectral peak gets high and steep; with the increase of β the spectral shape gradually gets lower and gentler; when β=Ⅰ, the wave fully grows, the growing spectrum becomes a fully grown P-M spectrum. The model also shows a spect 相似文献
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Is the wind wave frequency spectrum outdated 总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2
This paper presents a detailed examination of the practice of using the frequency spectrum to characterize wind waves. In particular, the issue of stationarity and Gaussian random process in connection with wind wave studies is addressed. We describe a test for nonstationarity based on the wavelet spectrum. When this test is applied to wind wave time series, the results significantly diverge from those expected for a Gaussian random process, thus casting critical doubts on the conventional concept of the wind wave frequency spectrum. 相似文献
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风浪宏观特征量是描述风浪场特征的重要物理量。作者基于风浪有停留在混乱运动状态的趋势的性质对风浪场特征量间的关系进行了研究。主频波频率附近的波动自风摄取能量,风浪吸收的能量通过非线性相互作用在谱中重新分配。谱中能量的重新分配产生多尺度波动,这导致风浪波面的混乱运动(风浪处于混乱运动状态)。在稳定状态,风浪运动最为混乱。当风浪状态偏离最混乱运动状态,谱中非线性相互作用引起的能量重新分配将使风浪回到该状态。基于线性海浪理论导出风浪场特征量间的关系。导出的关系与观测结果进行了对比,发现理论结果与观测结果很好地符合。风浪场宏观特征量间存在固有关系。尽管目前风浪场特征量关系的观测结果存在差异,但本文中证明,所导出的理论关系与实验结果很好地符合。 相似文献
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Statistical characteristics of individual waves in laboratory wind waves have been studied by use of a wind-wave tunnel. The individual waves are defined by actual undulations of the water surface at any instant, and are characterized by concentrated shearing stress and strong vorticity at their crests. A conspicuous self-similarity structure is found in the individual wave field. The similarity manifests itself as a simple spectral form, and as the statistical 3/2-power law between nondimensional wave height and wave period, and further as the -1/2-power relationship between nondimensional phase speed and frequency, for waves of the high frequency side. The normalized energy spectrum, specially defined for individual waves, has a form practically equivalent to the traditional spectrum for component waves in the main frequency range from 0.7 to 1.5 in the frequency normalized by the peak frequency, but does not have secondary peaks at harmonics. The phase speed of individual waves also coincides with that of component waves in the main frequency range. 相似文献
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Noriyuki Iwata 《Journal of Oceanography》1971,27(3):102-108
Two-dimensional ocean wave spectrum developing under the atmospheric surface pressure fluctuations is linearly correlated with that of wind pressure itself, so that angular distribution of energy of ocean surface waves can be determined by directional properties of surface pressure fluctuations with the same frequency to the surface wave.From empirically determined spectral formula of the atmospheric surface pressure fluctuations the coefficients of Fourier series expanded around mean direction of wind are analytically integrated, from which r.m.s. angular distribution, spectral peakedness and long-crestedness are calculated, compared with previously proposed empirical formulae and observations carried out by ultrasonic current meter. 相似文献