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1.
Wave dissipation characteristics in SWAN (Simulating Waves Nearshore) model are investigated through numerical experiments. It is found that neither the fully developed integral parameters of wind waves (significant wave height and peak frequency) nor the high frequency spectral tail can be well reproduced by the default wave dissipation source terms. A new spectral dissipation source term is proposed, which comprises saturation based dissipation above two times of peak frequency and improved whitecapping dissipation at lower frequency spectrum. The reciprocal wave age (u /c p ) is involved into the whitecapping model to adjust dissipation rate at different wind speed. The Phillips higher frequency saturation parameter in the saturation-based dissipation is no longer taken as a constant, but varies with wave age. Numerical validations demonstrate that both the wind wave generation process and higher frequency spectrum of wind waves can be well simulated by the new wave dissipation term. 相似文献
2.
This study investigates the initialization of nonlinear free-surface simulations in a numerical wave flume.Due to the mismatch between the linear input wavemaker motion and the kinematics of fully nonlinear waves,direct numerical simulations of progressive waves,generated by a sinusoidally moving wavemaker,are prone to suffering from high-frequency wave instability unless the flow is given sufficient time to adjust.A time ramp is superimposed on the wavemaker motion at the start that allows nonlinear free-surface simulations to be initialized with linear input.The duration of the ramp is adjusted to test its efficiency for short waves and long waves.Numerical results show that the time ramp scheme is effiective to stabilize the wave instability at the start of the simulation in a wave flume. 相似文献
3.
This work presents a new approach for simulating the random waves in viscous fluids and the associated bottom shear stresses. By generating the incident random waves in a numerical wave flume and solving the unsteady two-dimensional Navier-Stokes equations and the fully nonlinear free surface boundaiy conditions for the fluid flows in the flume, the viscous flows and laminar bottom shear stresses induced by random waves axe determined. The deterministic spectral amplitude method implemented by use of the fast Fourier transform algorithm was adopted to generate the incident random waves. The accuracy of the numerical scheme is confirmed by comparing the predicted wave spectrum with the target spectrum and by comparing the nanlerical transfer function between the shear stress and the surface elevation with the theoretical transfer function. The maximum bottom shear stress caused by random waves, computed by this wave model, is compared with that obtained by Myrhaug＇ s model （1995）. The transfer function method is also employed to determine the maximum shear stress, and is proved accurate. 相似文献
4.
In the present study,the surface elevation of wind waves oberved in laboratory and in the Bohai Sea are adopted for the estimation of the wind wave frequency spectrum by use of the method of the arcsine law(MAL).The traditional method uses the surface elevation to calculate the correlation and then estimate the frequency spectrum while the MAL,presented by Yu and Lan(1979),uses the time sequence of zero-crossing points of surface elevation rather than directly the surface elevation to calculate the correlation.66 sets of wind wave data obtained in laboratory and 420 sets of data observed in the Bohai Sea are adopted for the examination of the method introduced by Yu and Lan.Results show that the MAL can give reliable estimation of wind wave spectra.Correlation and form of spectra estimated by the MAL are similar to those estimated by the traditional method.The peak frequency and the spectral density in peak frequency by the MAL are close to those obtained by the traditional method. 相似文献
5.
Xu Delun Yu Dingyong Lu Hongmin Professor Physical Oceanography Laboratory Ocean University of Qindao Qingdao Associate Professor Engineering School Ocean University of Qindao Qingdao Senior Engineer Physical Oceanography Laboratory Ocean University of Qingdao Qingdao 《中国海洋工程》1998,(1)
Using the limit surface slope as a criterion of wave breaking,a simple model for estimatingthe spatial fraction of breaking surface of sea at an instant,which is regarded as the whitecap coverge inthis paper,is analytically derived from the probability density of surface slope based on Gaussianstatistics.The resulting fraction is found depending on the fourth moment of wave spectum,m_4,as well asthe critical threshold of surface slope.By expressing the fourth moment in terms of the Neumannspectrum,a formula linking the fraction and wind speed for fully developed sea states is obtianed.Anotherformula relating the fraction to both wind speed and fetch(or duration)is achieved by expressing m_4 interms of the Krylov spectrum and applying the empirical relationships used in the SMB ocean wave pre-dicting technique.A comparison between these results and the field data of whitecap coverage collected byMonahan and O＇Muircheartuigh shows an encouraging agreement. 相似文献
6.
- The spectral form of wind waves is investigated based on the ocean wave data observed at three nearshore stations of Taiwan. In this study, the generalized forms of Pierson-Moskowitz spectrum and JONSWAP spectrum are used to describe the local wave spectrum by selecting suitable spectral form parameters. It is shown that, at a specific site, the similarity of wave spectral form exists. Thus it is possible to use a representative spectral form for a given nearshore region to describe the wave spectrum at this nearshore. On the other hand, the effects of relative water depth on spectral form are examined. The feasibility of two spectral models in finite water depth is evaluated by using the same field wave data. 相似文献
7.
On the basis of the wave energy balance equation, the response model of mean directions of locally wind-generated waves in slowly turning wind fields has been derived. The results show that in a homogeneous field, the time scale of the response is not only related to the rate of wave growth, but also to the directional energy distribution and the angle between the wind direction and the mean wave direction. Furthermore, the law of change in the mean wave direction has been derived. The numerical computations show that the response of wave directions to slowly turning wind directions can be treated as the superposition of the responses of wave directions to a series of sudden small-angle changes of wind directions and the turning rate of the mean wave direction depends on the turning rate and the total turning angles of the wind direction. The response of wave directions is in agreement with the response for a sudden change of wind directions if the change in wind directions is very fast. Based on the no 相似文献
8.
Impact Analysis of Air Gap Motion with Respect to Parameters of Mooring System for Floating Platform
In this paper, the impact analysis of air gap concerning the parameters of mooring system for the semi-submersible platform is conducted. It is challenging to simulate the wave, current and wind loads of a platform based on a model test simultaneously. Furthermore, the dynamic equivalence between the truncated and full-depth mooring system is still a tuff work. However, the wind and current loads can be tested accurately in wind tunnel model. Furthermore, the wave can be simulated accurately in wave tank test. The full-scale mooring system and the all environment loads can be simulated accurately by using the numerical model based on the model tests simultaneously. In this paper, the air gap response of a floating platform is calculated based on the results of tunnel test and wave tank. Meanwhile, full-scale mooring system, the wind, wave and current load can be considered simultaneously. In addition, a numerical model of the platform is tuned and validated by ANSYS AQWA according to the model test results. With the support of the tuned numerical model, seventeen simulation cases about the presented platform are considered to study the wave, wind, and current loads simultaneously. Then, the impact analysis studies of air gap motion regarding the length, elasticity, and type of the mooring line are performed in the time domain under the beam wave, head wave, and oblique wave conditions. 相似文献
9.
Parameters in wind-wave frequency spectra and their bearings on spectrum forms and growth 总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2
Wen Shengchang 《海洋学报(英文版)》1989,8(1):15-39
The spectrum variance m0, peak frequency ω0 and peakness factor p are expressed in terms of nondimensional fetch and duration by making use of relations which are derived through comparing and analyzing existing empirical formulas for the growth of significant wave height and period. The main features of spectrum growth as specified by these parameters agree with those of the JONS-WAP experiments. For given wind speed and fetch, the high frequency parts beyond the peaks of shallow water spectra almost coincide with that of the corresponding deep water spectrum, whereas the low frequency parts differ appreciably. The method developed in this paper predicts smaller significant wave height as well as smaller wave period for shallow water spectra in contrast to the theoretical result of Kitaigorodskii ef al, in which the peak frequency, and consequently the significant wave period, remains basically unchanged for different water depths. Spectra are further reduced to a form in which only significant wave h 相似文献
10.
—A joint probability density function(PDF)for surface slopes in two arbitrary directions is de-rived on the basis of Longuet-Higgins's linear model for three-dimensional(3-D)random wave field.andthe correlation moments of surface slopes.as parameters in the PDF.are expressed in terms of directionalspectrum of ocean waves.So long as the directional spectrum model is given.these parameters are deter-mined.Since the directional spectrum models proposed so far are mostly parameterized by the wind speedand fetch.this allows for substituting these parameters with the wind speed and fetch.As an example.thewind speed and fetch are taken to be 14 m s and 200 km.and the Hasselmann and Donelan directionalspectra are.respectively.used to compute these parameters.Some novel results are obtained,One of the in-teresting results is that the variances of surface slope in downwind and cross-wind directions determined bythe Donelan directional spectra are close to those measured by Cox and Munk(1954).Some discussionsare m 相似文献
11.
Based on the refraction-diffraction theory of irregular waves in the waters of slowly-varying cur-rents and depths,and the generation dissipation theory of wind wave,a model for nonlinear irregular wavesin coastal area is developed.In light of the specific conditions of coastal wave character and engineering ap-plication,a practical mathematical model for the nonlinear irregular waves is presented.with directional spec-trum in coastal area.Coast effect,refraction,whitecapping.bottom friction.current,wind and nonlinearaction are considered in this model.The numerical methods and schemes for wave refraction ray,energy con-servation of propagation,energy balance of the generation and dissipation of wind waves have been studied.Finally,the model is used for the directional wave spectrum computation in the Daya Bay.Compared withthe measured data with 956 wave bouys in the Daya Bay,the model results are in good agreement with themeasured results. 相似文献
12.
In this paper, a numerical model is established for estimating the wave forces on a submerged horizontal circular cylinder. For predicting the wave motion, a set of two-dimensional Navier-Stokes equations is solved numerically with a finite element method. In order to track the moving non-linear wave surface boundary, the Navier-Stokes equations are discretized in a moving mesh system. After each computational time step, the mesh is modified according to the changed wave surface boundary. In order to stabilize the numerical procedure, a three-step finite element method is applied in the time integration. The water sloshing in a tank and wave propagation over a submerged bar are simulated for the first time to validate the present model. The computational results agree well with the analytical solution and the experimental data.Finally, the model is applied to the simulation of interaction between waves and a submerged horizontal circular cylinder.The effects of the KC number and the cylinder depth on the wave forces are studied. 相似文献
13.
Up to now, available method of numerical forecasting and suitable wind field model for the Bohai Sea storm surge have been few. In this paper, through the analysis of the weather situation is presented a mathematical model for the wind fields involved mainly the deformation field of a high pressure matched with a low pressure, the temperate cyclone, the cold wave and the northword typhoon. Meanwhile, numerical computations combined with the nonlinear storm surge models are made by using "ADI" method. The computed results are generally coincident with the practical observations. It has showed a success in the simulated wind field and the feasibility of using "ADI" method to forecast the Bohai Sea storm surge. 相似文献
14.
This study deals with the general numerical model to simulate the two-dimensional tidal flow, flooding wave (long wave) and shallow water waves (short wave). The foundational model is based on nonlinear Boussinesq equations. Numerical method for modelling the short waves is investigated in detail. The forces, such as Coriolis forces, wind stress, atmosphere and bottom friction, are considered. A two-dimensional implicit difference scheme of Boussinesq equations is proposed. The low-reflection outflow open boundary is suggested. By means of this model,both velocity fields of circulation current in a channel with step expansion and the wave diffraction behind a semi-infinite breakwater are computed, and the results are satisfactory. 相似文献
15.
More and more researches show that neither the critical downward acceleration nor the critical slope of water waves is a universal constant. On the contrary, they vary with particular wave conditions. This fact moders the models either for the probability of wave breaking B or for the whitecap coverage W based on these criteria difficult to apply. In this paper and the one which follows we seek to develop models for the prediction of both B and W based on the kinematical criterion. First, several joint probabihstic distribution functions (PDFs) of wave characteristics are derived, based on which the breaking properties B and W are estimated. The estimation is made on the assumption that a wave breaks ff the horizontal velocity of water particles at its crest exceeds the local wave celerity, and whitecapping occurs in regions of fluid where water particles travel faster than the waves. The consequent B and W depend on wave spectral moments of orders 0 to 4.Then the JONSWAP spectrum is used to represent the fetch-limited sea waves in deep water, so as to relate the probahility of wave breaking and the whitecap coverage with wind parameters. To this end, the time-averaging technique proposed by Glazman (1986) is applied to the estimation of the spectral moments involved, and furthermore, the theoretical models are compared with available observations collected from published literature. From the comparison, the averaging time scale is determined. The final models show that the probability of wave breaking as well as the whitecap coverage depends on the dimensionless fetch. The agreement between these models and the database is reasonable. 相似文献
16.
Microwave remote sensing is one of the most useful methods for observing the ocean parameters. The Doppler frequency or interferometric phase of the radar echoes can be used for an ocean surface current speed retrieval,which is widely used in spaceborne and airborne radars. While the effect of the ocean currents and waves is interactional. It is impossible to retrieve the ocean surface current speed from Doppler frequency shift directly. In order to study the relationship between the ocean surface current speed and the Doppler frequency shift, a numerical ocean surface Doppler spectrum model is established and validated with a reference. The input parameters of ocean Doppler spectrum include an ocean wave elevation model, a directional distribution function, and wind speed and direction. The suitable ocean wave elevation spectrum and the directional distribution function are selected by comparing the ocean Doppler spectrum in C band with an empirical geophysical model function(CDOP). What is more, the error sensitivities of ocean surface current speed to the wind speed and direction are analyzed. All these simulations are in Ku band. The simulation results show that the ocean surface current speed error is sensitive to the wind speed and direction errors. With VV polarization, the ocean surface current speed error is about 0.15 m/s when the wind speed error is 2 m/s, and the ocean surface current speed error is smaller than 0.3 m/s when the wind direction error is within 20° in the cross wind direction. 相似文献
17.
A finite-difference approach is used to develop a time-dependent mild-slope equation incorporating the effects of bottom dissipation and nonlinearity.The Euler predictor-corrector method and the three-point finite-difference method with varying spatial steps are adopted to discretize the time derivatives and the two-dimensional horizontal ones,respectively,thus leading both the time and spatial derivatives to the second-order accuracy.The boundary conditions for the present model are treated on the basis of the general conditions for open and fixed boundaries with an arbitrary reflection coefficient and phase shift.Both the linear and nonlinear versions of the numerical model are applied to the wave propagation and transformation over an elliptic shoal on a sloping beach,respectively,and the linear version is applied to the simulation of wave propagation in a fully open rectangular harbor.From comparison of numerical results with theoretical or experimental ones,it is found that they are in reasonable agreement. 相似文献
18.
《中国海洋工程》2020,(4)
This paper presents a numerical study on the high-frequency wave loads and ringing response of offshore wind turbine foundations exposed to moderately steep transient water waves. Input wave groups are generated by the technique of frequency-focusing, and the numerical simulation of focused waves is based on the NewWave model and a Fourier time-stepping procedure. The proposed model is validated by comparison with the published laboratory data. In respect of both the wave elevations and the underlying water particle kinematics, the numerical results are in excellent agreement with the experimental data. Furthermore, the local evolution of power spectra and the transfer of energy into higher frequencies can be clearly identified. Then the generalized FNV theory and Rainey's model are applied respectively to calculate the nonlinear wave loads on a bottom-hinged vertical cylinder in focused waves.Resonant ringing response excited by the nonlinear high-frequency wave loads is found in the numerical simulation when frequency ratios(natural frequency of the structure to peak frequency of wave spectra) are equal to 3–5.Dynamic amplification factor of ringing response is also investigated for different dynamic properties(natural frequency and damping ratio) of the structure. 相似文献
19.
Simulation of Typhoon-Driven Waves in the Yangtze Estuary with Multiple-Nested Wave Models 总被引：4，自引：0，他引：4
Typhoon-generated waves are simulated with two numerical wave models, the SWAN model for the coastal and Yangtze Estuary domain, nested within the WAVEWATCHIII （WW3） for the basin-scale East China Sea domain. Typhoon No. 8114 is chosen because it was very strong, and generated high waves in the Estuary. WW3 was implemented for the East China Sea coarse-resolution computational domain, to simulate the waves over a large spatial scale and provide boundary conditions for SWAN model simulations, implemented on a fine-resolution nested domain for the Yangtze Estuary area. The Takahashi wind model is applied to the simulation of the East China Sea scale （3-hourly） and Yangtze Estuary scale （1-hourly） winds. Simulations of significant wave heights in the East China Sea show that the highest waves are on the right side of the storm track, and maxima tend to occur at the eastern deep-water open boundary of the Yangtze Estuary. In the Yangtze Estuary, incoming swell is dominant over locally generated waves before the typhoon approaches the Estuary. As the typhoon approaches the Estuary, wind waves and swell coexist, and the wave direction is mainly influenced by the swell direction and the complex topography. 相似文献
20.
Wave decomposition phenomenon and spectrum evolution over submerged bars are investigated by a previously developed numerical model. First, the computed free surface displacements of regular waves at various locations are compared with the available experimental data to confirm the validity of the numerical model, and satisfactory agreements are obtained. In addition, variations of decomposition characteristics with incident wave parameters and the change of energy spectrum for regular waves are also studied. Then the spectrum evolution of irregular waves over submerged bars, as well as the influence of incident peak wave period and the steepness of the front slope of the bar on spectrum evolution, is investigated. Wave decomposition and spectral shape are found to be significantly influenced by the incident wave conditions. When the upslope of the bar becomes 1:2, the length of the slope becomes shorter and will not benefit the generation of high frequency energy, so spectrum evolution is not significant. 相似文献