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1.
根据傅氏级数展开法和贝叶斯方法,对现场获得的阵列资料进行了方向谱实例分析。结果表明,实测风浪方向谱能量的相对分布与相应的波场类型密切相关。涌浪和由稳定风场引起的风浪方向谱各组成波能量相对于方向呈单峰对称分布。大风引起的风浪方向谱能量的相对分布,虽也近似为单峰,但对称性差。不同波场类型的风浪方向谱各组成波的谱密度极值方向不同,表明不同频率的组成波有不同的主方向。  相似文献   

2.
A method is proposed to estimate the true directional spectrum of wind waves by making use of more than four wave detectors. The true spectrum of wind waves whose wave lengths lie between about 1.1 and 2.6 times the largest span between the wave gauges can be recovered with an error less than 0.5 %. An additional wave gauge with fixed maximum span extends its effectivity to shorter wave lengths, but does not effect the upper limit of wave length.The method is based on the fact that the spectrum estimated byBarber (1961) is connected with true directional spectrum by the Fredholm integral equation of the first kind if the wave component satisfies the dispersion relation. Solving the equation by using the Fourier series method, we can get true spectrum.  相似文献   

3.
This paper describes wave directional spreading in shallow water. Waves were measured for a period of 2 months using the Datawell directional waverider buoy at 15 m water depth on the east coast of India in the Bay of Bengal. The study also showed that in shallow water wave directional spreading was narrowest at peak frequency and widened towards lower and higher frequencies. The wind direction was found to deviate from the wave direction during most of the time. The unidirectional spectrum was found to be satisfactorily represented by Scott spectra.  相似文献   

4.
This paper proposes the retrieval method of ocean wave spectrum for airborne radar observations at small incidence angles, which is slightly modified from the method developed by Hauser. Firstly, it makes use of integration method to estimate total mean square slope instead of fitting method, which aims to reduce the affects of fluctuations superposed on normalized radar cross-section by integration. Secondly, for eliminating the noise spectrum contained in signal spectrum, the method considers the signal spectrum in certain look direction without any long wave components as the assumed noise spectrum, which would be subtracted from signal spectrum in any look direction for linear wave spectrum retrieval. Estimated ν from the integration method are lower than the one from fitting method and have a standard deviation of 0.004 between them approximately. The assumed noise spectrum energy almost has no big variations along with the wave number and is slightly lower to the high wave number part of signal spectrum in any look direction, which follows that the assumption makes sense. The retrieved directional spectra are compared with the buoy records in terms of peak wavelength, peak direction and the significant wave height. Comparisons show that the retrieved peak wavelength and significant wave height are slightly higher than the buoy records but don’t differs significantly (error less than 10%). For peak direction, the swell waves in first case basically propagate in the wind direction 6 hours ago and the wind-generated waves in second case also propagate in the wind direction, but the 180? ambiguity remains. Results show that the modified method can carry out the retrieval of directional wave spectrum.  相似文献   

5.
Microwave remote sensing is one of the most useful methods for observing the ocean parameters. The Doppler frequency or interferometric phase of the radar echoes can be used for an ocean surface current speed retrieval,which is widely used in spaceborne and airborne radars. While the effect of the ocean currents and waves is interactional. It is impossible to retrieve the ocean surface current speed from Doppler frequency shift directly. In order to study the relationship between the ocean surface current speed and the Doppler frequency shift, a numerical ocean surface Doppler spectrum model is established and validated with a reference. The input parameters of ocean Doppler spectrum include an ocean wave elevation model, a directional distribution function, and wind speed and direction. The suitable ocean wave elevation spectrum and the directional distribution function are selected by comparing the ocean Doppler spectrum in C band with an empirical geophysical model function(CDOP). What is more, the error sensitivities of ocean surface current speed to the wind speed and direction are analyzed. All these simulations are in Ku band. The simulation results show that the ocean surface current speed error is sensitive to the wind speed and direction errors. With VV polarization, the ocean surface current speed error is about 0.15 m/s when the wind speed error is 2 m/s, and the ocean surface current speed error is smaller than 0.3 m/s when the wind direction error is within 20° in the cross wind direction.  相似文献   

6.
以高精度再分析风场为驱动,利用SWAN模式模拟了台风“达维”Damrey(2005)经过北部湾海域时的波浪场。通过与实测的风和波浪实测对比发现,波浪后报结果与实测结果符合较好。文章给出了台风浪期间波高、周期、波长和波向等要素的分布特征,讨论了以台风眼为中心不同海域的波浪方向谱特征。本文最后分析了台风期间实测波浪能谱的变化特征。  相似文献   

7.
Some missions have been carried out to measure wave directional spectrum by synthetic aperture radar (SAR) and airborne real aperture radar (RAR) at a low incidence. Both them have their own advantages and limitations. Scientists hope that SAR and satellite-based RAR can complement each other for the research on wave properties in the future. For this study, the authors aim to simulate the satellite-based RAR system to validate performance for measuring the directional wave spectrum. The principal measurements are introduced and the simulation methods based on the one developed by Hauser are adopted and slightly modified. To enhance the authenticity of input spectrum and the wave spectrum measuring consistency for SAR and satellite-based RAR, the wave height spectrum inversed from Envisat ASAR data by cross spectrum technology is used as the input spectrum of the simulation system. In the process of simulation, the sea surface, backscattering signal, modulation spectrum and the estimated wave height spectrum are simulated in each look direction. Directional wave spectrum are measured based on the simulated observations from 0° to 360°. From the estimated wave spectrum, it has an 180° ambiguity like SAR, but it has no special high wave number cut off in all the direction. Finally, the estimated spectrum is compared with the input one in terms of the dominant wave wavelength, direction and SWH and the results are promising. The simulation shows that satellite-based RAR should be capable of measuring the directional wave properties. Moreover, it indicates satellite-based RAR basically can measure waves that SAR can measure.  相似文献   

8.
采用声学多普勒流速仪(ADV)和多点测波仪的实验资料,对分段式造波机生成的多向随机波浪进行方向谱分析.结果表明,分段式造波机生成的多向随机波浪的时间平稳性优于空间均匀性;贝叶斯方法(BDM)适合于流速实验资料和阵列波浪资料的方向谱分析,给出的方向谱满足随机波浪的内禀性质(如光滑性、连续性等);流速资料和阵列波浪资料给出的方向谱具有相当的精度,但与测速的深度有关;三参量(如三点波浪、两个方向的速度分量和一点波浪等)可给出具有相当精度的方向谱;给出了衡量方向谱精度的初步标准.  相似文献   

9.
从定常波的风浪波高随风距成长的预报公式出发 ,在一定条件下 ,导出各波向上风浪波高分量与该波向上的风距之间的关系 ,以便在不规则风区上推算风浪波高和平均波向 ;同时 ,对风区宽度作了定量化的分析。  相似文献   

10.
基于选定风浪方向谱的海浪模拟方法(英文)   总被引:1,自引:0,他引:1  
简要回顾当前第三代海浪模式中的困难。为避开这些困难,作者提出一种新的海浪模拟方法,其中特定定义的风浪组成波依常风下随时间成长的方向谱计算,而涌浪组成波藉考虑涡动黏性和底摩擦加以计算。并进行了常风场和变风场下系统的数值试验。在常风速情形中,模拟结果能精确地化为建立模拟所根据的谱和风浪成长关系。计算显示出台风中心附近浪场的极端复杂的谱结构。当风速骤然降低时,模拟的波高减小与观测符合。在风向逐渐或骤然改变情形下,计算的时间响应尺度与海上观测符合,而且演化中的二维谱结构得到良好刻画。对于涌浪在无风下的传播,模拟结果合理,包括波参量及谱结构的变化。后报得到的波高、周期和海上资料符合。与第三代模式相比,文中提出的方法较易改进,需用的计算机时间显著减少。最后讨论采用一个已知谱来建立谱形式的海浪预报模型的合理性以及有关的问题。  相似文献   

11.
刘驰  徐莹  孟齐辉  陈萍 《海洋学报》2018,40(5):129-139
基于星载波谱仪海浪方向谱探测原理,仿真了不同海况、风速下的海浪波谱仪接收信号,并采用周期图法、Welch法、AR模型法以及最小方差法共4种不同的调制谱估计方法反演出海浪谱,比较各种调制谱估计方法的海浪方向谱反演性能。仿真结果表明:对于一定方位向下的一维海浪谱反演,不同调制谱估计方法反演海浪谱性能优劣没有绝对的顺序。对于二维海浪谱反演,在成长中海浪条件下周期图法反演性能最差,其他3种方法的反演性能没有绝对优劣顺序;对于成熟风浪,最小方差法在积分能量误差、有效波高误差两个指标上的反演性能最好,在主波波向、主波波长误差上,周期图法反演性能最差,其他3种方法没有绝对优劣顺序。在涌浪条件下,AR模型法反演性能优于其他3种方法。在不同海况下,随着波谱仪中心入射角的下降,反演性能会下降。基于这些仿真结果,本文推荐最小方差法作为充分成长海浪的海浪方向谱反演的调制谱估计方法,AR模型法作为涌浪海浪方向谱反演的调制谱估计方法。  相似文献   

12.
针对机载合成孔径雷达(SAR)对海探测特点,采用多入射角法从SAR数据本身得到与海浪参数反演区域时空匹配的同步海面风速和风向,并结合线性变换关系,计算得到海浪初猜谱对应的仿真SAR图像谱,将仿真SAR图像谱和观测SAR图像谱输入代价函数中进行迭代运算,通过非线性方程的解算得到最适海浪谱;采用交叉谱法去除海浪传播180°方向模糊,最终得到海浪参数。论文提出的基于同步风场的机载SAR海浪参数反演方法,充分利用了机载SAR海洋环境探测的优势,解决了传统SAR海浪参数反演中初猜谱构造依赖外部风场的问题,机载同步飞行试验的海浪参数反演结果与浮标观测值的有效波高、波向的均方根误差分别为0.23 m和13.23°,验证了该方法的有效性,可为机载SAR海浪参数反演业务化提供支持。  相似文献   

13.
Anisotropy of wind and wave regimes in the Baltic proper   总被引:1,自引:0,他引:1  
The directional distribution of moderate and strong winds in the Baltic Sea region is shown to be strongly anisotropic. The dominating wind direction is south-west and a secondary peak corresponds to north winds. North-west storms are relatively infrequent and north-east storms are extremely rare. Angular distribution of extreme wind speed also has a two-peaked shape with maxima corresponding to south-west and north winds, and a deep minimum for easterly winds. The primary properties of the anisotropy such as prevailing winds, frequency of their occurrence, directional distribution of mean and maximum wind speeds coincide on both sides of the Baltic proper. The specific wind regime penetrates neither into the mainland nor into the Gulf of Finland or the Gulf of Riga.Properties of the saturated wave field in the neighbourhood of proposed sites of the Saaremaa (Ösel) deep harbour are analysed on the basis of the wave model WAM forced by steady winds. The directional distribution of wave heights in typical and extreme storms is highly anisotropic. Remarkable wave height anomalies may occur in the neighbourhood of the harbour sites.  相似文献   

14.
对ENVISAT ASAR level2算法固有误差的分析   总被引:1,自引:0,他引:1  
欧洲空间局的ENVISAT ASAR level 2算法是从合成孔径雷达(SAR)单视复图像反演涌浪方向谱的算法.该算法假设双峰海浪谱的SAR图像交叉谱是涌浪的图像交叉谱和风浪的图像交叉谱之和.实际上双峰海浪谱的SAR图像交叉谱中还有一个混合项,正是该混合项导致ENVI-SAT ASAR level 2算法有固有误差.利用遥感仿真的方法分析了不同海况条件下该算法的这一固有误差,结果表明,只有在有效波高较小、或风浪的成分较少、或双峰海浪的传播方向较靠近SAR距离向、或波长较长时固有误差才较小,ENVISAT ASAR level 2算法对海浪谱的反演才较为适用.  相似文献   

15.
Two-dimensional ocean wave spectrum developing under the atmospheric surface pressure fluctuations is linearly correlated with that of wind pressure itself, so that angular distribution of energy of ocean surface waves can be determined by directional properties of surface pressure fluctuations with the same frequency to the surface wave.From empirically determined spectral formula of the atmospheric surface pressure fluctuations the coefficients of Fourier series expanded around mean direction of wind are analytically integrated, from which r.m.s. angular distribution, spectral peakedness and long-crestedness are calculated, compared with previously proposed empirical formulae and observations carried out by ultrasonic current meter.  相似文献   

16.
太湖北岸风浪谱的特征分析   总被引:6,自引:0,他引:6  
利用1992年在太湖北岸马迹山地区测得的浅水风风浪资料,采用FFT方法求算风浪频谱,对谱结构特征的分析表明,观测到的风浪谱在平衡范围谱值按-4.0幂指数衰减,风浪谱形状与文圣常给出的理论结果比较接近。另外,分析以风要素为参量得到的无因次化频谱可以看出,观测谱基本满足谱的相似律。  相似文献   

17.
Statistical analysis was done on simultaneous wave and wind using data recorded by discus-shape wave buoy. The area is located in the southern Caspian Sea near the Anzali Port. Recorded wave data were obtained through directional spectrum wave analysis. Recorded wind direction and wind speed were obtained through the related time series as well. For 12-month measurements(May 25 2007-2008), statistical calculations were done to specify the value of nonlinear auto-correlation of wave and wind using the probability distribution function of wave characteristics and statistical analysis in various time periods. The paper also presents and analyzes the amount of wave energy for the area mentioned on the basis of available database. Analyses showed a suitable comparison between the amounts of wave energy in different seasons. As a result, the best period for the largest amount of wave energy was known. Results showed that in the research period, the mean wave and wind auto correlation were about three hours. Among the probability distribution functions, i.e Weibull, Normal, Lognormal and Rayleigh, "Weibull" had the best consistency with experimental distribution function shown in different diagrams for each season. Results also showed that the mean wave energy in the research period was about 49.88 k W/m and the maximum density of wave energy was found in February and March, 2010.  相似文献   

18.
Operational Wave, Current, and Wind Measurements With the Pisces HF Radar   总被引:1,自引:0,他引:1  
This paper presents results of a trial of a Pisces HF radar system aimed at assessing its use as a component of a wave-monitoring network being installed around the coasts of England and Wales. The radar system has been operating since December 2003 and the trial continued to June 2005. The data have been processed in near-real time and displayed on a website. Radar measurements of the directional spectrum and derived parameters are compared with those measured with a directional waverider and with products from the Met Office, United Kingdom, operational wave model. Radar measurements of currents and winds are also compared with Met Office model products and, in the case of winds, with the QuikSCAT scatterometer. Statistics on data availability and accuracy are presented. The results demonstrate that useful availability and accuracy in wave and wind parameters are obtained above a waveheight threshold of 2 m and at ranges up to 120 km at the radar operating frequencies (7-10 MHz) used. Waveheight measurements above about 1 m can be made with reasonable accuracy (e.g., mean difference of 2.5% during January-February 2004). Period and direction parameters in low seas are often contaminated by noise in the radar signal. The comparisons provide some evidence of wave model limitations in offshore wind and swell conditions  相似文献   

19.
On the basis of the wave energy balance equation, the response model of mean directions of locally wind-generated waves in slowly turning wind fields has been derived. The results show that in a homogeneous field, the time scale of the response is not only related to the rate of wave growth, but also to the directional energy distribution and the angle between the wind direction and the mean wave direction. Furthermore, the law of change in the mean wave direction has been derived. The numerical computations show that the response of wave directions to slowly turning wind directions can be treated as the superposition of the responses of wave directions to a series of sudden small-angle changes of wind directions and the turning rate of the mean wave direction depends on the turning rate and the total turning angles of the wind direction. The response of wave directions is in agreement with the response for a sudden change of wind directions if the change in wind directions is very fast. Based on the no  相似文献   

20.
A model is described for hindcasting or forecasting waves in finite‐depth waters. The model is particularly applicable to coastal sites where the water is depth‐limited. The wave energy density spectrum is modelled in the frequency‐directional domain. For each spectral component a ray is defined along which wave energy propagates to reach the site. For sites exposed to the open ocean a background spectral wave model is required to provide input to the ray endpoints. Further growth and dissipation is then effected along the rays according to the local wind and water depth. The model was used to hindcast wave spectra over a period of 9 months for a site in the Canterbury Bight, New Zealand. The results were compared with measurements from a Waveridcr buoy at the site. The model succeeds in explaining about 40% of the variance in measured significant wave heights. However, the present application is handicapped by errors inherent in the background spectral model and in specifying the local wind.  相似文献   

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