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1.
It is shown that the effect of wind in a circular wind-water tunnel can cause the formation of a single soliton, whose generation is preceded by a gradual increase in the length and amplitude of wind waves. In the presence of surfactants, another (long-wave) formation mechanism comes into play, resulting in the generation of a soliton on the surface free of wind waves in the low-frequency range, which will persist from the origination of waves to a completely formed soliton. 相似文献
2.
The impact of the gustiness on surface waves under storm conditions is investigated with focus on the appearance of wave groups with extreme high amplitude and wavelength in the North Sea. During many storms characterized by extremely high individual waves measured near the German coast, especially in cold air outbreaks, the moving atmospheric open cells are observed by optical and radar satellites. According to measurements, the footprint of the cell produces a local increase in the wind field at sea surface, moving as a consistent system with a propagation speed near to swell wave-traveling speed. The optical and microwave satellite data are used to connect mesoscale atmospheric turbulences and the extreme waves measured. The parameters of open cells observed are used for numerical spectral wave modeling. The North Sea with horizontal resolution of 2.5?km and with focus on the German Bight was simulated. The wind field “storm in storm,” including moving organized mesoscale eddies with increased wind speed, was generated. To take into account the rapid moving gust structure, the input wind field was updated each 5?min. The test cases idealized with one, two, and four open individual cells and, respectively, with groups of open cells, with and without preexisting sea state, as well the real storm conditions, are simulated. The model results confirm that an individual-moving open cell can cause the local significant wave height increase in order of meters within the cell area and especially in a narrow area of 1–2?km at the footprint center of a cell (the cell's diameter is 40–90?km). In a case of a traveling individual open cell with 15?m·s?1 over a sea surface with a preexisting wind sea of and swell, a local significant wave height increase of 3.5?m is produced. A group of cells for a real storm condition produces a local increase of significant wave height of more than 6?m during a short time window of 10–20?min (cell passing). The sea surface simulation from modeled wave spectra points out the appearance of wave groups including extreme individual waves with a period of about 25?s and a wavelength of more than 350?m under the cell's footprint. This corresponds well with measurement of a rogue wave group with length of about 400?m and a period of near 25?s. This has been registered at FiNO-1 research platform in the North Sea during Britta storm on November 1, 2006 at 04:00 UTC. The results can explain the appearance of rogue waves in the German Bight and can be used for ship safety and coastal protection. Presently, the considered mesoscale gustiness cannot be incorporated in present operational wave forecasting systems, since it needs an update of the wind field at spatial and temporal scales, which is still not available for such applications. However, the scenario simulations for cell structures with appropriate travel speed, observed by optical and radar satellites, can be done and applied for warning messages. 相似文献
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On recording sea surface elevation with accelerometer buoys: lessons from ITOP (2010) 总被引：2，自引：2，他引：0
Measurements of significant wave height are made routinely throughout the world’s oceans, but a record of the sea surface elevation (η) is rarely kept. This is mostly due to memory limitations on data, but also, it is thought that buoy measurements of sea surface elevation are not as accurate as wave gauges mounted on stationary platforms. Accurate records of η which contain rogue waves (defined here as an individual wave at least twice the significant wave height) are of great interest to scientists and engineers. Using field data, procedures for tilt correcting and double integrating accelerometer data to produce a consistent record of η are given in this study. The data in this study are from experimental buoys deployed in the recent Impact of Typhoons on the Ocean in the Pacific (ITOP) field experiment which occurred in 2010. The statistics from the ITOP buoys is under that predicted by Rayleigh theory, but matches the distributions of Boccotti and others (Tayfun and Fedele) (Ocean Eng 34:1631-1649, 2007). Rogue waves were recorded throughout the experiment under various sea state conditions. Recommendations, as a result of lessons learned during ITOP, are made for the routine recording of η which may not add significantly to the existing data burden. The hope is that we might one day collect a worldwide database of rogue waves from the existing buoy network, which would progress our understanding of the rogue wave phenomenon and make work at sea safer. 相似文献
5.
Seasonal variations of the Hawaiian Lee Countercurrent induced by the meridional migration of the trade winds 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
Hideharu Sasaki Shang-Ping Xie Bunmei Taguchi Masami Nonaka Yukio Masumoto 《Ocean Dynamics》2010,60(3):705-715
Seasonal variations of the Hawaiian Lee Countercurrent (HLCC) are investigated using satellite observations of sea surface
height and wind stress as well as eddy-resolving ocean model simulations. The HLCC is strong from summer to winter and weak
in spring between the dateline and the Hawaiian Islands. In response to the seasonal migration of the northeast trade winds
in the meridional direction, the wind curl dipole lee of Hawaii varies in strength, exciting westward-propagating Rossby waves.
The analyses of both observations and simulations show that the propagation of Rossby waves south of the HLCC, driven by the
southern pole of the wind curl dipole in the lee of the islands, contributes the most to the seasonal variations of the HLCC.
Unlike the wind-driven seasonal variations, our analysis suggests that other mechanisms such as mode water intrusion or air–sea
interaction may cause the interannual variations of the HLCC. 相似文献
6.
浅水湖泊风浪过程对于湖泊生态系统具有重要的意义.基于巢湖风场、风浪和水环境参数同步高频观测结果,详细分析了快速变化风场下的风浪快速变化特征及其对湖泊水环境的影响特征.浅水湖泊风浪的有效波高和平均波周期均随风速的快速变化有较好的同步响应规律.在风速快速衰减阶段,相较有效波高,波周期有更好的稳定性.湖泊水体pH、水温、溶解氧会快速响应风浪的变化,随着风浪强度增强,对水体浊度、总磷浓度以及藻密度和生物量的扰动影响逐渐呈现.强烈的风浪扰动引起水体浊度变化的滞后时间可达3 d.快速变化的风浪场下,风浪的强烈扰动会改变水体固有的理化参数分布特征,扰动藻类常规的水体分布规律,风浪强度是造成差异的主要因子. 相似文献
7.
太湖不同湖区风浪的季节变化特征 总被引：5，自引：3，他引：2
为明晰太湖风浪的空间分布及季节变化,在湖心区设立波浪观测站,利用其记录的波浪数据证明SWAN模型能够较好地模拟太湖风浪.基于所建模型,对2013年自然风场条件下太湖不同湖区风浪季节动态进行模拟分析,结果表明:受岸线、地形和岛屿等地理因素影响,大太湖的风浪总是最强,其有效波高均值为0.523 m;而东太湖风浪最小,有效波高均值为0.305 m.受盛行风场季节变化影响,太湖春、夏季有效波高均值明显大于秋、冬季.太湖波浪的能量主要来源于风场,其有效波高随风速增大而增大,两者呈极显著正相关.而风向则可以通过改变风区长度来影响风浪生消.在偏东风作用下,太湖湖西区的风浪大于东部湖区;而受盛行于冬季的偏北风影响,太湖南部水域风浪要大于北部.同时,太湖风浪的时空分布特征是造成太湖水质参数、沉积物和水生植物空间分布差异的重要原因之一. 相似文献
8.
Richard P. Mied William J. Schulz Robert A. Handler Charlotte M. Snow Robert A. Fusina John H. Porter 《Continental Shelf Research》2010
The effects of local and remote wind forcing of water level heights in the Virginia Coast Reserve (VCR) are examined in order to determine the significant forces governing estuarine motions over subtidal time scales. Recent (1996–2008) data from tide and wind stations in the lagoon, a tide station to the north at Sandy Hook, NJ, and one offshore wind station at the Chesapeake Light Tower are examined. Sea surface height spectrum calculations reveal significant diurnal and semidiurnal tidal effects along with subtidal variations, but a suppressed inertial signal. Sea-surface heights (SSH) with 2–5 day periods at Wachapreague, VA are coherent with those at Sandy Hook and lag them in time, suggesting that southward-propagating continental shelf waves provide subtidal variability within the lagoon. The coherence between lagoon winds and sea surface height, as well as between winds and cross-lagoon sea height gradient, were significant at a relatively small number of frequency and wind direction combinations. The frequencies at which this wind forcing occurs are the tidal and subtidal bands present to the north, so that lagoon winds selectively augment existing SSH signals, but do not generate them. The impact of the wind direction is closely related to the geometry of the lagoon and bounding landmasses. The effect of wind stress is also constrained by geometry in affecting the cross-lagoon water height gradient. Water levels at subtidal frequencies are likely forced by a combination of local wind forcing, remote wind forcing and oceanic forcing modified by the complex topography of the lagoon, shelf, and barrier islands. 相似文献
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10.
Typhoon-induced waves and surges are important when predicting potential hazards near coastal regions. In this paper, we applied a coupled modeling system for ocean–wave interaction to examine prediction capabilities for typhoon-induced waves and surges around the Korean Peninsula. To identify how ocean–wave coupling impacts wave and surge simulations during typhoon conditions, a set of comparative experiments was performed during Typhoon Bolaven (2012): (1) a fully coupled ocean–wave model, (2) a one-way coupled ocean–wave model without surface current feedback and ocean-to-wave water levels, and (3) a stand-alone ocean model without considering wave-based sea surface roughness (SSR). When coupled with the ocean model, the surface current reduced significantly the wave height on the right-hand side of the advancing typhoon track and improved prediction accuracy along the southern coast of Korea. Compared with the observed surge levels, the simulated surge height yielded improved results for peak height magnitude and timing compared with the uncoupled model. For wave-to-surge feedback, we found that wave-induced SSR plays an important role by modulating wind stress in the surface layer. The modulated wind stress directly affected the surge height, which improved surge peak prediction during the typhoon. 相似文献
11.
Early in the thirties of the last century, the former Soviet scientists proposed characteristic waves (such as significant wave, and mean wave) to manifest the behavior of wind waves and began to study growth of wind waves. Later on Sverdrup and Munk[1] u… 相似文献
12.
The paper addresses the individual and collective contribution of different forcing factors (tides, wind waves, and sea-level rise) to the dynamics of sediment in coastal areas. The results are obtained from simulations with the General Estuarine Transport Model coupled with a sediment transport model. The wave-induced bed shear stress is formulated using a simple model based on the concept that the turbulent kinetic energy (TKE) associated with wind waves is a function of orbital velocity, the latter depending on the wave height and water depth. A theory is presented explaining the controls of sediment dynamics by the TKE produced by tides and wind waves. Several scenarios were developed aiming at revealing possible trends resulting from realistic (observed or expected) changes in sea level and wave magnitude. The simulations demonstrate that these changes not only influence the concentration of sediment, which is very sensitive to the magnitude of the external forcing, but also the temporal variability patterns. The joint effect of tides and wave-induced bed shear stress revealed by the comparison between theoretical results and simulations is well pronounced. The intercomparison between different scenarios demonstrates that the spatial patterns of erosion and deposition are very sensitive to the magnitude of wind waves and sea-level rise. Under a changing climate, forcing the horizontal distribution of sediments adjusts mainly through a change in the balance of export and import of sediment from the intertidal basins. The strongest signal associated with this adjustment is simulated North of the barrier islands where the evolution of sedimentation gives an integrated picture of the processes in tidal basins. 相似文献
13.
This paper concerns new field measurements of wave height and crest elevation probability distributions as measured in the North Sea during a storm in December 2012. The water surface elevation was recorded by Saab WaveRadar REX instruments mounted on eight fixed-jacket platforms in addition to a Datawell Directional Waverider buoy. The storm generated an easterly sea state which peaked well in excess of the 100-year wave height for that direction in the region. Furthermore, 19 freak waves occurred during the storm according to the definition as reported by Haver (2000). The present study demonstrates that the significant steepness and spectral bandwidth during the storm remain almost constant. Consequently, there is little change in the commonly applied design wave height and crest elevation probability distributions throughout the storm. Whilst the bulk of the recorded data was in good agreement with the theoretical distributions, it was demonstrated that when the wind speed was larger than 25 m/s, the measured crest elevation lies above the second-order Forristall distribution. 相似文献
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The transformation of a weakly nonlinear interfacial solitary wave in an ideal two-layer flow over a step is studied. In the vicinity of the step the wave transformation is described in the framework of the linear theory of long interfacial waves, and the coefficients of wave reflection and transmission are calculated. A strong transformation arises for propagation into shallower water, but a weak transformation for propagation into deeper water. Far from the step, the wave dynamics is described by the Korteweg-de Vries equation which is fully integrable. In the vicinity of the step, the reflected and transmitted waves have soliton-like shapes, but their parameters do not satisfy the steady-state soliton solutions. Using the inverse scattering technique it is shown that the reflected wave evolves into a single soliton and dispersing radiation if the wave propagates from deep to shallow water, and only dispersing radiation if the wave propagates from shallow to deep water. The dynamics of the transmitted wave is more complicated. In particular, if the coefficient of the nonlinear quadratic term in the Korteweg-de Vries equation is not changed in sign in the region after the step, the transmitted wave evolves into a group of solitons and radiation, a process similar to soliton fission for surface gravity waves at a step. But if the coefficient of the nonlinear term changes sign, the soliton is destroyed completely and transforms into radiation. The effects of cubic nonlinearity are studied in the framework of the extended Korteweg-de Vries (Gardner) equation which is also integrable. The higher-order nonlinear effects influence the amplitudes of the generated solitons if the amplitude of the transformed wave is comparable with the thickness of lower layer, but otherwise the process of soliton fission is qualitatively the same as in the framework of the Korteweg-de Vries equation. 相似文献
16.
采用包括耗散的射线跟踪方法，计算了在水平不均匀风场作用下，不同尺度重力波从对流层直至220km观测高度的传播，结果表明，垂直于重力波传播方向的风以及风剪切能够引起波射线的折射，从而导致重力波明显偏离初始传播方向.在强顺风场作用下，由于风场引起的捕获，大量重力波不能传播到观测高度.由于风场引起的多普勒频移，小周期的重力波在弱顺风条件下能够传播到观测高度.由于反射作用，强逆风场不支持周期低于约18min的较高频重力波的传播.而在弱逆风作用下，大部分中尺度范围重力波都能够传播到观测高度.本文统计了武汉电离层观象台的TID观测数据随热层风场的分布，统计结果与模拟结果符合较好. 相似文献
17.
《中国科学:地球科学(英文版)》2015,(8)
Based on the merged satellite altimeter data and in-situ observations,as well as a diagnosis of linear baroclinic Rossby wave solutions,this study analyzed the rapidly rise of sea level/sea surface height(SSH)in the tropical Pacific and Indian Oceans during recent two decades.Results show that the sea level rise signals in the tropical west Pacific and the southeast Indian Ocean are closely linked to each other through the pathways of oceanic waveguide within the Indonesian Seas in the form of thermocline adjustment.The sea level changes in the southeast Indian Ocean are strongly influenced by the low-frequency westward-propagating waves originated in the tropical Pacific,whereas those in the southwest Indian Ocean respond mainly to the local wind forcing.Analyses of the lead-lag correlation further reveal the different origins of interannual and interdecadal variabilities in the tropical Pacific.The interannual wave signals are dominated by the wind variability along the equatorial Pacific,which is associated with the El Ni?o-Southern Oscillation;whereas the interdecadal signals are driven mainly by the wind curl off the equatorial Pacific,which is closely related to the Pacific Decadal Oscillation. 相似文献
18.
G. V. Matushevskii 《Water Resources》2005,32(2):145-150
Analysis of field and laboratory measurements and theoretical studies was used to establish that the generally adopted logarithmic shape of wind speed profile near the ocean surface does not hold in the presence of waves. It was shown that, under the conditions of developing or developed waves at high wind speed, this profile assumes the form of two logarithmic branches, which join at a large height where wave-induced pulsations of wind speed decay. A model of wind speed profile under these conditions was constructed.Translated from Vodnye Resursy, Vol. 32, No. 2, 2005, pp. 165–170.Original Russian Text Copyright © 2005 by Matushevskii. 相似文献
19.
Sediment resuspension under action of wind in Taihu Lake,China 总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2
A field study was undertaken to investigate the changes of the current speed, wave parameters and sediment resuspension under different wind speeds in the Taihu Lake. The Acoustic Doppler Current Profi... 相似文献
20.
The role of oceanic tide, wind stress, freshwater river inflows, and waves in the long-term circulation and residence time
in óbidos Lagoon is investigated using a sensitivity analysis carried out by means of a two-dimensional model. MOHID modeling
system coupled to Steady-State Spectral Wave model for simulate óbidos Lagoon circulation were implemented. For residence
time calculus, a Lagrangian transport model was used. Tidal forcing is shown to be the dominant forcing, although storm waves
must be considered to simulate accurately the long-term circulation. Tidal forcing enhances a spatial distribution in water
residence time. Renewal time scales varies from values of 2 days in the near-ocean areas and 3 weeks in the inner areas. Freshwater
river inflows decrease the residence time, while waves increase. In heavy rain periods, the water residence time decreases
by about 40% in the upper lagoon. When wave forcing is considered, the residence time increases between 10% and 50% depending
on lagoon area. The increase in residence time is explained by the sea level rise within lagoon (~1 m above average lagoon
sea level) during storm wave periods. Average residence time is 16 days for tidal forcing, 9 days when the rivers are included
(wet period), and 18 days when the waves are considered. 相似文献