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1.

Lithofacies in the mid‐Permian Nowra Sandstone indicate a middle/upper shoreface to foreshore environment of deposition under the influence of storm‐generated waves and north‐northeasterly directed longshore currents. Palaeogeographic reconstruction for the Nowra Sandstone portrays a sand‐dominated high energy shelf and offshore shoal forming a sequence thickening seaward away from the western shore of the Sydney Basin. The shoal‐crest at the outer edge of the shelf trends north‐northeast. It is characterized by fine‐ to medium‐grained sandstone with upper flow regime structures and a high proportion of conglomerate, whereas coarser sandstone with lower energy bedforms occurs along the seaward side of the shoal. In the deeper water to the east, the lower Nowra Sandstone becomes rapidly thinner as it passes seaward, via bioturbated storm redeposited sandstone beds, into the shelf deposits of the Wandrawandian Siltstone. This sequence accumulated during a regressive event and the base of the formation becomes progressively younger eastward. The sand may have been supplied by rivers along the western coast but the major source was south of the study area. The lower Nowra Sandstone is separated from the upper part of the formation by an extensive ravinement surface overlain by the Purnoo Conglomerate Member. In contrast to the lower unit, the upper Nowra Sandstone forms a westward thickening wedge that represents a backstepping nearshore sand facies that accumulated during a transgression. The upper Nowra Sandstone passes vertically and laterally eastward into the Berry Siltstone. Thus both boundaries of the Nowra Sandstone are diachronous, first younging eastward and then westward as a response to a regressive‐transgressive episode.  相似文献   

2.
A three-dimensional model for a tidal inlet-barrier island depositional system was constructed through examination of 37 vibracores and 10 auger drill holes on Capers and Dewees Islands, South Carolina. Two cycles of southerly inlet migration and subsequent abandonment resulted in beach ridge truncation on the northern ends of both barriers. Historical evidence indicates that these tidal inlets migrated 1.5 km to the south owing to a dominant north-south longshore transport direction. The hydraulic inefficiency of these over-extended inlet channels caused shorter, more northerly-oriented channels to breach through the ebbtidal deltas. After inlet reorientation, large wave-formed swash bars migrated landward closing former inlet channels. Weakened tidal currents through the abandoned channels permitted clay plugs to form thick impermeable seals over active channel-fill sand and shell. Price and Capers Inlets formed during the onset of the Holocene transgression following submergence of the ancestral Plio-Pleistocene Santee River drainage system. Coarse, poorly sorted inlet-deposited sand disconformably overlies Pleistocene estuarine clay and is capped by a dense clay plug. Shoreline reorientation and landward retreat of a primary barrier island chain occurred between the first and second cycles of inlet-channel migration and abandonment. Beach ridges prograded seaward over the first inlet sequence. A second cycle of inlet migration truncated the northernmost portion of these beach ridges and scoured into the clay plug of the earlier inlet deposit. Abandonment of this channel resulted in deposition of a second abandoned inlet-channel clay plug. Abandoned tidal inlet channels exhibit U-shaped strike and crescentic- to wedge-shaped dip geometries. Basal, poorly sorted inlet sands are sealed beneath impermeable, abandoned-channel silt and clay, washover deposits, and salt marsh. Multiple episodes of inlet migration and abandonment during a rising sea-level deposited stacked inlet-fill sequences within the barrier islands. The resultant stratigraphy consists of interlayered, fining-upward, active inlet-fill sand overlain by thicker abandoned inlet-fill clay plugs. These clay plugs form impermeable zones between adjacent barrier island sand bodies. Shoreline transgression would remove the uppermost barrier island deposits, sealing the inlet-fill sequences between Pleistocene estuarine clay and shoreface to shelf silt and clay.  相似文献   

3.
During landward migration, ridge and runnel systems are subjected to asymmetric oscillatory and/or unidirectional flow regimes, depending on the stage of development reached by these systems. In the early stages of evolution, when the ridge is situated in the upper shoreface, the whole system is subjected to asymmetric oscillatory flow. The runnel is under lower flow regime conditions and the ridge may be under upper or lower flow regime according to water depth and wave energy. Later, when the ridge has migrated to a position on the foreshore, the runnel is largely under a unidirectional lower flow regime while the ridge itself is under oscillatory upper flow regime. When the ridge welds to berm, it is largely emergent and exposed to high-tide swash action under upper flow regime conditions. The runnel is eventually filled with sand and transformed into a low-lying area. All these types grade laterally into each other. One or more ridge and runnel systems can occur at the same time. Wave energy, tide level and position of the ridge control the variations in the characteristics of the ridge and also the position of the zones of bedforms found at the upper shoreface.  相似文献   

4.
Three lines of evidence based on data from more than 400 boreholes and vibrocores have been used to reconstruct the evolution of the barrier islands during the Holocene transgression in southern Long Island, New York: (1) the Holocene transgressive stratigraphic sequence behind the present barriers, (2) the stratigraphic patterns of the inner shelf, and (3) the morphology of the now-buried late Pleistocene coastal features. The extensive preservation of backbarrier sediments, radiocarbon dated between 7000 and 8000 yr BP, on the inner shelf of southern Long Island suggests that the barriers have not retreated by continuous shoreface erosion alone, but have also undergone discontinuous retreat by in-place ‘drowning’ of barriers and stepwise retreat of the surf zone. Such stepwise retreat of the surf zone has prevented the backbarrier sediments from being reworked. Based on the presence of submerged barrier sand bodies in seismic records, it is inferred that about 9000 years ago, when the sea stood about 24 m below the present sea level, a chain of barriers developed on the present shelf about 7 km offshore of the present barriers. With continued sea-level rise, the – 24 m barrier built upward until the sea reached about – 15 m MSL, just prior to 7000 yr BP. The barriers were then submerged by the rapidly rising sea, and the surf zone shifted rapidly landward to a position about 2 km from the present shoreline. The surf zone overstepped to the landward margin of the old lagoon, which had become fixed at the steep seaward face of mid-Wisconsinan (?) or Sangamonian coastal barriers. During the past 5000 or 6000 years, the shoreface has retreated continuously by about 2 km. Evidence from southern Long Island and elsewhere in regions of coastal submergence indicates that rapid sea-level rise and low sand supply seem to favour the stepwise retreat of barriers, whereas slow rates of submergence and a greater supply of sand generally favour continuous shoreface retreat. Stationary upbuilding, or seaward progradation of barriers may occur when supply of sand is great, and/or submergence is slowed or reversed. Morphologic highs on the pretransgression surface (such as old barrier ridges) tend to fix the migrating barrier shoreline during either continuous retreat, or stepwise retreat of barriers.  相似文献   

5.
Four bedform provinces have been identified on Georges Bank using sidescan-sonar and echo-sounding techniques: large sand waves superimposed on sand ridges, small sand waves, megaripples, and featureless seafloor. The large sand waves and sand ridges are found on the bank crest where the surface tidal currents are strongest. Areas of small sand waves and megaripples, formed where tidal currents are moderate in strength, border the area of large sand waves to the north and south. Featureless seafloor is found farthest from the bank crest where surface tidal currents are weakest. Sand-wave asymmetry and surface-sediment texture have been used to infer bedload transport paths on Georges Bank. In the large sand-wave area, bedforms indicate a clockwise transport around each of the linear north-west-striking sand ridges with slight convergence of the sand waves on the ridge crests. This transport pattern implies erosion from the troughs and accumulation on the sand ridges. The asymmetry of the small sand waves along the south side of Georges Bank indicates that sand is also transported southward away from the linear sand ridges on top of the bank. Although the asymmetry of megaripples could not be determined, the occurrence of megaripples between the small sand-wave province and areas of featureless seafloor suggests a decreasing effectiveness of sand transport away from the bank crest. This sand dispersal pattern is further supported by the surface sediments which become progessively finer to the north and SW away from the crest of Georges Bank.  相似文献   

6.
The internal structure of coastal foredunes from three sites along the north Norfolk coast has been investigated using ground‐penetrating radar (GPR), which provides a unique insight into the internal structure of these dunes that cannot be achieved by any other non‐destructive or geophysical technique. Combining geomorphological and geophysical investigations into the structure and morphology of these coastal foredunes has enabled a more accurate determination of their development and evolution. The radar profiles show the internal structures, which include foreslope accretion, trough cut and fill, roll‐over and beach deposits. Foredune ridges contain large sets of low‐angle cross‐stratification from dune foreslope accretion with trough‐shaped structures from cut and fill on the crest and rearslope. Foreslope accretion indicates sand supply from the beach to the foreslope, while troughs on the dune crest and rearslope are attributed to reworking by offshore winds. Bounding surfaces between dunes are clearly resolved and reveal the relative chronology of dune emplacement. Radar sequence boundaries within dunes have been traced below the water‐table passing into beach erosion surfaces. These are believed to result from storm activity, which erodes the upper beach and dunes. In one example, at Brancaster, a dune scarp and erosion surface may be correlated with erosion in the 1950s, possibly the 1953 storm. Results suggest that dune ridge development is intimately linked to changes in the shoreline, with dune development associated with coastal progradation while dunes are eroded during storms and, where beaches are eroding, a stable coast provides more time for dune development, resulting in higher foredune ridges. A model for coastal dune evolution is presented, which illustrates stages of dune development in response to beach evolution and sand supply. In contrast to many other coastal dune fields where the prevailing wind is onshore, on the north Norfolk coast, the prevailing wind is directed along the coast and offshore, which reduces the landward migration of sand dunes.  相似文献   

7.
The 2004 Indian Ocean tsunami deposited a sheet of sand with surficial bedforms at the Andaman coast of Thailand. Here we show the recognition of bedforms and the key internal sedimentary structures as criteria of the tsunami supercritical flow condition. The presence of well‐preserved capping bedforms implied a dominant tsunami inflow. Sets of internal sedimentary structures including parallel lamination, seaward and landward inclined‐laminations, and downstream dipping laminae indicated antidune structures that were generated by a supercritical flow current in a depositional stage during the inflow. A set of seaward dipping cross‐laminations containing sand with mud drape on the surface of one depositional layer are a unique indication of an outflow structure. A majority of deposits show normal grading, but in some areas, localized reverse grading was also observed. The recognition of these capping bedforms and determination of the internal sedimentary structures provides new key criteria to help derive a better understanding of tsunami flow conditions.  相似文献   

8.
On the south‐west coast of Vancouver Island, Canada, sedimentological and ichnological analysis of three beach–shoreface complexes developed along a strait margin was undertaken to quantify process–response relations in straits and to develop a model for strait‐margin beaches. For all three beaches, evidence of tidal processes are expressed best in the lower shoreface and offshore and, to a lesser extent, in the middle shoreface. Tidal currents are dominant offshore, below 18 m water depth (relative to the mean spring high tide), whereas wave processes dominate sediment deposition in the nearshore (intertidal zone to 5 m water depth). From 18 to 5 m water depth, tidal processes decrease in importance relative to wave processes. The relatively high tidal energy in the offshore and lower shoreface is manifest sedimentologically by the dominance of sand, of a similar grain size to the upper shoreface/intertidal zone and, by the prevalence of current‐generated structures (current ripples) oriented parallel to the shoreline. In addition, the offshore and lower shoreface of strait‐bound beach–shoreface complexes are recognized ichnologically by traces typical of the Skolithos Ichnofacies. This situation contrasts to the dominantly horizontal feeding traces characteristic of the Cruziana Ichnofacies that are prevalent in the lower shoreface and offshore of open‐coast (wave‐dominated) beach–shorefaces. These sedimentological and ichnological characteristics reflect tidal influence on sediment deposition; consequently, the term ‘tide‐influenced shoreface’ most accurately describes these depositional environments.  相似文献   

9.
Washover sand bodies commonly develop along microtidal coastlines in beach/barrier island or spit settings. Wave runup, usually in conjunction with an abnormally high water level, may overtop the most landward berm of the beach and the foredune crest, if one exists, to produce overwash and subsequent runoff across the more landward subaerial surface. Two main elements of the resulting deposit are the washover fan and runoff channel. Newly formed, small-scale washover deposits were examined along the Outer Banks, North Carolina, near Pt Mugu, California, and at Presque Isle (Lake Erie), Pennsylvania. The fans were formed in response to unidirectional landward transport, and the runoff channels in response to unidirectional flow usually in a landward direction, but sometimes in shore-parallel then seaward direction. Where overwash carried across the fan surface and entered a pond or lagoon, a small-scale delta (microdelta) developed. In this case, the washover fan consisted of two subfacies, the wetted, but ‘subaerial’ part of the fan and the subaqueous washover delta. Flow associated with the development of the fan and runoff channel produced distinctive sets of bedforms and internal stratification. High velocity discontinuous surges moving across the fan surface resulted in the development of a plane bed and subhorizontal to low-angle (landward dipping) planar stratification which comprised the major part of the fan. Similarly, rhomboid forms were produced by high velocity sheet flow across the fan surface. Where flow carried into a standing body of water, delta-type foreset strata developed. For this case, the lateral structural sequence was subhorizontal, planar stratification merging landward into landward dipping, delta (tabular) foreset strata. In the runoff setting, where flow became channelized and continuous, both upper-flow and lower-flow regime currents were typical. Upper-flow regime bedforms included antidunes, standing waves, and plane beds. The most commonly observed lower-flow regime bedforms included microdelta-like bars, low-amplitude bars, linguoid ripples, and sinuous-crested current ripple trains. The sets of sedimentary structures comprising modern washover sand bodies provide criteria for the identification of similar deposits in ancient sediments and for more specific interpretation of the environment.  相似文献   

10.
An active oolitic sand wave was monitored for a period of 37 days in order to address the relationship between the direction and strength of tidal currents and the resultant geometry, and amount and direction of migration of bedforms in carbonate sands. The study area is situated in a tidal channel near Lee Stocking Island (Exumas, Bahamas) containing an estimated 5.5 to 6 × 105 m3 of mobile oolitic sand. Tidal ranges within the inlet are microtidal and the maximum current velocity at the studied site is 0.6 m s?1. At least 300–400 m3 of mostly oolitic sand are formed within, or brought into, the channel area every year. The tidal inlet is subdivided into an ocean-orientated segment, in which sand waves are shaped by both flood and ebb tides, and a platform-orientated segment, where sand waves are mainly shaped by flood tides. The studied sand wave lies on the platformward flood-tide dominated segment in a water depth of 3.5.4.5 m. During the 37 days of observation, the oolitic and bioclastic sand wave migrated 4 m in the direction of the dominant flood current. The increments of migration were directly related to the strength of the tide. During each tidal cycle, bedforms formed depending on the strength of the tidal current, tidal range and their location on the sand wave. During flood tides, a steep lee and a gentle stoss side formed and current ripples and small dunes developed on the crest of the sand wave, while the trough developed only ripples. The average lee slope of the sand wave is 24.2°, and therefore steeper than typical siliciclastic sand waves. During ebb tides, portions of the crest are eroded creating a convex upward ebb stoss side, covered with climbing cuspate and linguoid ripples and composite dunes. The area between the ebb-lee side and the trough is covered with fan systems, sinuous ripples and dunes. The migration of all bedforms deviated to a variable degree from the main current direction, reflecting complex flow patterns in the tidal inlet. Small bedforms displayed the largest deviation, migrating at an angle of up to 90° and more to the dominant current direction during spring tides.  相似文献   

11.
Seaward of the Bosphorus Strait, the south‐west Black Sea shelf is dominated by the world's largest channel network maintained by a quasi‐continuous saline (ca 35 → 31 psu) underflow. Calculations indicate that >85% of the initial discharge of ca 104 m3s?1 spills overbank before the shelf edge. This paper documents interaction of the overspill with sea bed topography using multibeam bathymetry, echo‐sounder images of the water column, conductivity–temperature–depth profiles and sediment cores. Overbank spill is widespread, particularly through crevasse channels and on the middle shelf where confinement by channel banks is negligible. Towards the outer shelf, the wind‐driven Rim Current advects mud along the shelf, contributing to levée successions and deposition on stoss sides of elongate transverse ridges. Echo‐sounder profiles reveal metre‐scale eddies over megaflutes, and breaking lee waves and internal hydraulic jumps over ridges. Megaflutes reach 600 m long and 7 m deep, yet form where the underflow, outside the flute, is no thicker than ca 2 to 5 m. Two types of elongate seaward‐facing ridges are recognized. Type 1 ridges, 2 to 5 m high, consist of bivalve‐rich muddy sand in low‐angle (3·5° to 6°) cross‐sets created by the underflow. Type 2 ridges, ca 5 m high, have crests up to 2 km long and a buried wedge‐shaped foundation (the ‘ridge‐core’) comprised of facies similar to Type 1 ridges. These ridge‐cores are blanketed on the landward side by stratified muds, and are capped by obliquely oriented ribs supporting a diverse benthic community. This facies distribution is interpreted to result from stoss‐side and lee‐side velocity and turbulence fluctuations induced by internal hydraulic jumps and breaking lee waves in overspilling portions of the underflow. Experimental results published by W.H. Snyder and co‐workers effectively explain ridge evolution and flow across the ridges, and therefore can be applied with confidence to less easily studied deep‐marine settings swept by turbidity currents.  相似文献   

12.
Within the Kinsale Formation (Lower Carboniferous) of southern Ireland are pebbly sandstones and conglomerates contained in what is known locally as the Garryvoe conglomerate facies. In this facies there are three main groups of lithologies: (a) heterolithic mudrocks and sandstones characterized by a wide variety of wave-produced structures; (b) sandstones dominated by swaley cross-stratification (SCS), parallel lamination, and rare hummocky cross-stratification (HCS); and (c) pebbly sandstones and conglomerates occurring as discrete beds or as gravel clasts dispersed through SCS sets. Successions of the facies comprise units of heterolithic mudrock and rippled sandstone alternating repeatedly with coarsening-upward units of SCS pebbly sandstone capped by top-surface granule and pebble lags. The Garryvoe conglomerate facies accumulated in a system of offshore bars on a muddy shallow-marine shelf that was dominated by waves and currents generated by storms. Sands and gravels were bypassed from a contemporaneous northerly coastal zone to the shelf, where they were moulded by the storm-generated flow into low, broad, sand ridges (offshore bars). The elongate bars were spaced kilometres apart, oriented obliquely to the coast, and separated by muddy interbar troughs. Their surfaces were largely covered by hummocky and swaley forms. Long-term, gradual seaward migration of the offshore bars concentrated gravels on landward flanks from the dispersed pebbly sands that were on the crests and seaward flanks. Exceptionally intense storms could form laterally extensive winnowed gravel lags above thinned bar sequences. Such storms could also flush gravel-bearing turbidity currents into muddy interbar trough areas.  相似文献   

13.
Sediments exposed at low tide on the transgressive, hypertidal (>6 m tidal range) Waterside Beach, New Brunswick, Canada permit the scrutiny of sedimentary structures and textures that develop at water depths equivalent to the upper and lower shoreface. Waterside Beach sediments are grouped into eleven sedimentologically distinct deposits that represent three depositional environments: (1) sandy foreshore and shoreface; (2) tidal‐creek braid‐plain and delta; and, (3) wave‐formed gravel and sand bars, and associated deposits. The sandy foreshore and shoreface depositional environment encompasses the backshore; moderately dipping beachface; and a shallowly seaward‐dipping terrace of sandy middle and lower intertidal, and muddy sub‐tidal sediments. Intertidal sediments reworked and deposited by tidal creeks comprise the tidal‐creek braid plain and delta. Wave‐formed sand and gravel bars and associated deposits include: sediment sourced from low‐amplitude, unstable sand bars; gravel deposited from large (up to 5·5 m high, 800 m long), landward‐migrating gravel bars; and zones of mud deposition developed on the landward side of the gravel bars. The relationship between the gravel bars and mud deposits, and between mud‐laden sea water and beach gravels provides mechanisms for the deposition of mud beds, and muddy clast‐ and matrix‐supported conglomerates in ancient conglomeratic successions. Idealized sections are presented as analogues for ancient conglomerates deposited in transgressive systems. Where tidal creeks do not influence sedimentation on the beach, the preserved sequence consists of a gravel lag overlain by increasingly finer‐grained shoreface sediments. Conversely, where tidal creeks debouch onto the beach, erosion of the underlying salt marsh results in deposition of a thicker, more complex beach succession. The thickness of this package is controlled by tidal range, sedimentation rate, and rate of transgression. The tidal‐creek influenced succession comprises repeated sequences of: a thin mud bed overlain by muddy conglomerate, sandy conglomerate, a coarse lag, and capped by trough cross‐bedded sand and gravel.  相似文献   

14.
The morphology and dynamics of modern gravel shorefaces are poorly documented. This hinders the interpretation of possible ancient counterparts. A comparative study of a modern (Chesil Beach, England) and an ancient (Baytree Member of the Cardium Formation, Alberta) gravel shoreface shows that the two systems are very similar close to and above sea-level, with a high (about 1 m) gravel plunge step lying below plane-bedded sands and gravels of the beachface. The shoreface at Chesil Beach is dominated by asymmetrical gravel wave ripples. These are oriented offshore near the toe of the shoreface, and onshore in shallower depths. This may reflect offshore movement during storms and landward reworking during fair weather. The Baytree Member is over 12 m thick and comprises over 80% conglomerate. Conglomerate is decimetre-bedded, massive or cross-bedded, with sets over 60 cm thick produced by gravel bedforms migrating alongshore. It is interbedded with discontinuous cm- to dm-bedded sandstones which may be cross-bedded. Pebble fabric and cross-bed orientation both indicate strong alongshore sediment transport. Near the base of the section, pebble orientations suggest that gravel wave-ripples developed below the zone of strong longshore flows. Differences between these two examples may be attributed to different directions of wave approach.  相似文献   

15.
Hurricane Ike's storm surge deposited a concentrated shell bed in the form of a series of coalescing washover fans over backshore sand and adjoining marshland in part of southwest Louisiana's Chenier Plain. The shell bed is a tempestite and has distinctive morphological, sedimentological and biogenic characteristics that provide a modern analogue to aid interpretation of older shell bed tempestites in the geological record. The shell bed has a wedge‐shaped profile that thickens landward, is about 40 m wide, up to 27 cm thick and extends several hundred metres parallel to the shore. Shells are predominantly disarticulated valves of the common bivalve Mulinia lateralis, probably reworked and transported landward from skeletal remains offshore. The shell bed has an erosional base, is bioclast supported, normally graded and has common mud rip‐up clasts. Similarities between the modern shell bed and another concentrated shell deposit, forming part of a sandy beach ridge some 1.5 km inland, suggest that the palaeo shell deposit is also a tempestite recording hurricane washover of a former shoreline 600 a ago. These findings demonstrate that the shell bed deposited by Hurricane Ike is a valuable analogue for palaeotempestological investigations and that hurricanes have likely contributed to the construction of both modern berm ridges and palaeo beach ridges on this coastal plain. Copyright © 2011 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.  相似文献   

16.
Guichen Bay on the south‐east coast of South Australia faces west towards the prevailing westerly winds of the Southern Ocean. The bay is backed by a 4 km wide Holocene beach‐ridge plain with more than 100 beach ridges. The morphology of the Guichen Bay strandplain complex shows changes in the width, length, height and orientation of beach ridges. A combination of geomorphological interpretation, shallow geophysics and existing geochronology is used to interpret the Holocene fill of Guichen Bay. Six sets of beach ridges are identified from the interpretation of orthorectified aerial photographs. The ridge sets are distinguished on the basis of beach‐ridge orientation and continuity. A 2·25 km ground‐penetrating radar (GPR) profile across the beach ridges reveals the sedimentary structures and stratigraphic units. The beach ridges visible in the surface topography are a succession of stabilized foredunes that overlie progradational foreshore and upper shoreface sediments. The beach progrades show multiple truncation surfaces interpreted as storm events. The GPR profile shows that there are many more erosion surfaces in the subsurface than beach ridges on the surface. The width and dip of preserved beach progrades imaged by GPR shows that the shoreface has steepened from around 2·9° to around 7·5°. The changes in beach slope are attributed to increasing wave energy associated with beach progradation into deeper water as Guichen Bay was infilled. At the same time, the thickness of the preserved beach progrades increases slightly as the beach prograded into deeper water. Using the surface area of the ridge sets measured from the orthophotography, and the average thickness of upper shoreface, foreshore and coastal dune sands interpreted from the GPR profile, the volume of Holocene sediments within three of the six sets of beach‐ridge accretion has been calculated. Combining optically stimulated luminescence (OSL) ages and volume calculations, rates of sediment accumulation for Ridge Sets 3, 4 and 5 have been estimated. Linear rates of beach‐ridge progradation appear to decrease in the mid‐Holocene. However, the rates of sediment accumulation calculated from beach volumes have remained remarkably consistent through the mid‐ to late Holocene. This suggests that sediment supply to the beach has been constant and that the decrease in the rate of progradation is due to increasing accommodation space as the beach progrades into deeper water. Changes in beach‐ridge morphology and orientation reflect environmental factors such as changes in wave climate and wind regime.  相似文献   

17.
《Sedimentology》2018,65(3):721-744
Storm surges generated by tropical cyclones have been considered a primary process for building coarse‐sand beach ridges along the north‐eastern Queensland coast, Australia. This interpretation has led to the development of palaeotempestology based on the beach ridges. To better identify the sedimentary processes responsible for these ridges, a high‐resolution chronostratigraphic analysis of a series of ridges was carried out at Cowley Beach, Queensland, a meso‐tidal beach system with a >3 m tide range. Optically stimulated luminescence ages indicate that 10 ridges accreted seaward over the last 2500 to 2700 years. The ridge crests sit +3·5 to 5·1 m above Australian Height Datum (ca mean sea‐level). A ground‐penetrating radar profile shows two distinct radar facies, both of which are dissected by truncation surfaces. Hummocky structures in the upper facies indicate that the nucleus of the beach ridge forms as a berm at +2·5 m Australian Height Datum, equivalent to the fair‐weather swash limit during high tide. The lower facies comprises a sequence of seaward‐dipping reflections. Beach progradation thus occurs via fair‐weather‐wave accretion of sand, with erosion by storm waves resulting in a sporadic sedimentary record. The ridge deposits above the fair‐weather swash limit are primarily composed of coarse and medium sands with pumice gravels and are largely emplaced during surge events. Inundation of the ridges is more likely to occur in relation to a cyclone passing during high tide. The ridges may also include an aeolian component as cyclonic winds can transport beach sand inland, especially during low tide, and some layers above +2·5 m Australian Height Datum are finer than aeolian ripples found on the backshore. Coarse‐sand ridges at Cowley Beach are thus products of fair‐weather swash and cyclone inundation modulated by tides. Knowledge of this composite depositional process can better inform the development of robust palaeoenvironmental reconstructions from the ridges.  相似文献   

18.
The influence of vegetation on aeolian sediment transport rate in the region from a backshore to a foredune was investigated at the Hasaki Coast in Japan, where an onshore wind was predominant and the creeping beach grasses Carex kobomugi and Calystegia soldanella were major species. The comparison of cross-shore distributions of the cross-shore component of aeolian sand transport rate with and without vegetation, which were estimated on the basis of the beach profile changes and a mass conservation equation, showed that the creeping grasses influenced the aeolian sand transport rate. The landward aeolian sand transport rate rapidly decreased landward from the seaward limit of vegetation when the grasses grew. The aeolian sand transport rate reduced by 95% with a vegetation cover of 28%. On the other hand, when the grasses were absent, the landward aeolian sand transport rate did not decrease near the seaward vegetation limit, but near the foot of the foredune.  相似文献   

19.
ABSTRACT There are very few field measurements of nearshore bedforms and grain‐size distribution on low‐energy microtidal beaches that experience low‐amplitude, long‐period waves. Field observations are needed to determine grain‐size distribution over nearshore bedforms, which may be important for understanding the mechanisms responsible for ripple development and migration. Additional nearshore field observations of ripple geometry are needed to test predictive models of ripple geometry. Ripple height, length and sediment composition were measured in the nearshore of several low‐energy beaches with concurrent measurements of incident waves. The distribution of sediment sizes over individual ripples was investigated, and the performance of several models of ripple geometry prediction was tested both spatially and temporally. Sediment samples were collected from the crest and trough of 164 ripples. The sand‐sized sediment was separated from the small amount (generally <3%) of coarser material (>2 mm) that was present. Within the sand‐sized fraction, the ripple crests were found to be significantly coarser, better sorted and more positively skewed than the troughs. Overall, the troughs were finer than the crests but contained a greater proportion of the small fraction of sediment larger than 2 mm. The field model of Nielsen (1981 ) and the model of Wiberg & Harris (1994 ) were found to be the most accurate models for predicting the wavelength of parallel ripples in the nearshore of the low‐energy microtidal environments surveyed. The Wiberg & Harris (1994 ) model was also the most accurate model for predicting ripple height. Temporal changes in ripple wavelength appear to be dependent on the morphological history of the bed.  相似文献   

20.
在分析海底地貌学国内外研究现状基础之上,综述我国海底地貌的最新研究进展和发展历程,探讨今后我国近海地貌的研究发展方向:我国现代海底地貌学研究虽然起步较晚,但总的趋势是随着测量技术的不断更新,由宏观向微观、从大的地貌类型向特定的地貌体、从形态特征到地貌过程的研究,并着重研究人类活动与地貌过程的响应关系。针对"908专项"在我国近海海域的调查成果,着重介绍其在我国东海近海海域地形地貌研究中的新发现、新认识:长江口外古潮流沙脊群可分为堆积型、侵蚀—堆积型和侵蚀型潮流沙脊群3种类型;在福建闽江口近岸的马祖列岛和白犬列岛之间发现多条呈SW—NE走向、条带状分布的潮流沙脊,面积约200 km2,水深在15～30 m;在东海陆架沙脊区与金门岛外发现2处新的海底礁石。这些全新的发现和认识对于我国近海海底地貌的研究将起到丰富和推动作用。  相似文献   

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