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海滩近岸带中尺度地形动力过程是海岸海洋科学研究的重要研究内容之一.近20年来该领域发展较快,取得了一些重要的成果.对近岸带中尺度地形动力过程的碎波带地形与沙坝、冲流带地形与滩角、海滩风暴响应、观测技术手段等主要领域的进展进行了总结和评述,并对我国海滩研究提出要从加强观测手段和制定长期观测计划两方面来加强的建议. 相似文献
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粤东后江湾涨落潮下的碎波带波能与滩面地形时空变化分析 总被引：5，自引：1，他引：5
利用涌浪和处于陡滩面、滩面下陡坎和深槽海滩地形条件下的海滩碎波带压力波和滩面地形资料,对碎波带中的入射总波能、长重力波能及两者比值随潮位涨落的变化关系,碎波带动力因子与滩面地形之间的作用关系及典型相关和多维偏交叉谱关系等作了初步分析。结果表明,碎波带中的入射总波能与潮位涨落呈现出一致的变化规律;而碎波带中的长重力波能变化与潮位涨落变化趋势相反;碎波带各动力因子、滩面潜水位和碎波带波浪、潮位及滩面地形引起的滩面陡坎处破波点位置变动等因素的耦合作用,对滩面向海发育和滩面地形变化有重要影响。 相似文献
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华南水东湾波控、中等潮差岬湾海滩地形动力分类 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
海滩地形动力分类在国外的海岸地貌研究中已经被广泛接受。本文使用了华南粤西水东湾切线带、过渡带和遮蔽带海滩连续16个月32次大潮期间同步获取的波浪、潮汐、泥沙和海滩地形数据,分别按照无量纲沉降参数、相对潮差参数和无量纲海湾尺度参数对这一岬湾海滩不同岸段的海滩类型进行了研究,研究发现：（1）水东湾切线带海滩的主要状态为有裂流的低潮台地状态和沙坝型海滩状态,过渡带海滩主要状态是低潮沙坝/裂流海滩和沙坝消散型状态,遮蔽带海滩主要状态是有或无沙坝的消散型状态;（2）海湾不同岸段海滩状态的顺序变化与差异体现了岬湾海滩状态的时空变化性,与现场观测的海滩地形的变化基本一致,说明了对波控中到强潮海滩进行研究时,需要考虑潮汐的影响。同时,本文主要给出了海滩状态研究的一个框架体系,由于海滩不同的状态伴随不同的侵蚀模式,要求我国今后需加强在这一方面研究,以进一步丰富我国海滩地形演变、海滩地形动力过程和海滩防侵蚀的理论基础。 相似文献
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滩角是海滩上由波浪作用形成的一种变化极为复杂的韵律地形,与海滩状态有显著的关系。通过对滩角地形的详细观测,研究了滩角在常浪条件下的调整和变动过程。通过对地形动力要素和滩角地形变化过程的详细分析,认为Masselink等提出的碎波相似参数ξ和用ε(S/λ)2建立的滩角地形模式能较好的反映常浪条件下滩角的调整变动过程。通过对比,初步认为二者之间有较强的相关性。 相似文献
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0709号台风影响下粤东后江湾海滩地形动力过程研究 总被引：2，自引：2，他引：0
基于0709号台风"圣帕"影响下粤东后江湾的现场实测海滩前滨地形资料和水动力、风等资料,采用典型相关分析方法识别了台风影响下海滩前滨地形不同的变化过程,揭示了这些不同变化过程的主要控制因子,并尝试给出了物理解释。研究结果表明:(1)台风影响下海滩前滨地形的主要变化过程是水上滩肩被破坏—水下岸坡略有堆积—水下沙坝泥沙向海搬运,控制这一过程的主要动力因子是风速东向量、最大波高和碎波尺度参数;(2)海滩前滨地形的次要变化过程是海滩前滨泥沙向海搬运而形成水下沙坝,控制这一过程的主要动力因子是最大波周期和海滩地下水位;(3)海滩前滨地形也表现出前滨上部地带堆积、下部侵蚀的变化过程,控制这一过程的主要动力因子是沿岸流、海滩地下水位和最大波高。这些研究结果进一步揭示了台风影响下海滩前滨地形动力过程是由多个不同的地形-动力过程耦合作用而组成。 相似文献
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华南海岸岬间海滩地形动力状态类型研究 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
海滩地形动力状态分类对于理解近岸带动形动力过程、海滩浴场风险评估等方面有重要的意义。收集了华南51个岬间海滩波高、波周期、潮差和泥沙粒径等地形动力要素特征值,利用分层聚类分析方法,同时结合海滩相对潮差分类模型,对华南岬间海滩的类型进行了探讨,结果表明:(1)华南岬间海滩可以聚类成7个类型。通过与相关的现场观测比较,各类型在地形组合上具有各自的显著特征;(2)聚类分析结果能很好的区分中到大潮差海岸与小潮差海滩之间的差异,与相对潮差模型结果一致。对于小潮差海滩,聚类结果与相对潮差模型有一定的差异,表明华南小潮差海滩的分类还需要进一步深入研究。 相似文献
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海滩碎波带波能振荡的多尺度分析 总被引：4，自引：0，他引：4
对不同波况条件下实测的一岬间海滩碎波带两个上的波面数据,通过小波变换方法计算了小波谱,并作了显性检验。结果表明：（１）碎波带波能存在典型的多尺度振荡特性;（２）在正常波况下,波能主要分布于风浪频域,入射波自外测站向内测站传播过程中,能量具有向低频方向转移的趋势;（３）在高能波况下,能量均向长重力波频带增加,在长力波显尺度,二测站之间存在良好的位相一致关系。 相似文献
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《African Journal of Marine Science》2013,35(1):759-770
Sandy beaches constitute nearly 46 per cent of the coastline between the Cape of Good Hope and the Orange River along the west coast of South Africa. In addition, shores of mixed sand and rock make up a further 24 per cent although these are not considered here. Sandy beaches are therefore the dominant shore type along the coastline, and most are subject to high wave energy. There are two main ecological beach types along the study coastline: those that receive a high input of organic matter in the form of stranded kelp and those that do not. Neither type appears to support large stocks of surf-zone phytoplankton, but despite this, even beaches receiving no stranded kelp bear high standing stocks of infauna. This fact may be related to the location of the beaches alongside a highly productive upwelling region. Existing ecological information on sandy beaches along the Benguela coastline is reviewed and integrated to form a composite picture of present understanding of these beaches. The definition of a sandy beach includes not only the sandy intertidal zone but also the surf zone and sand dunes associated with it. Sandy beaches are characterized by the absence of attached primary producers, although in some parts of the world primary production by surf-zone phytoplankton has been found to be important. Secondary production by the infauna usually depends on matter imported into the system, except on beaches supporting important stocks of surf-zone phytoplankton. Imported organic matter is retained by beach sediments which act as a physical sieve, filtering large quantities of water with each wave and tide. 相似文献
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《Coastal Engineering》2001,42(3):219-239
This paper describes an adaptive quadtree-based 2DH wave–current interaction model for evaluating nearly horizontal wave-induced currents in the surf-zone. The model accounts for wave breaking, shoaling, refraction, diffraction, wave–current interaction, set-up and set-down, mixing processes (turbulent diffusion), bottom frictional effects, and movement of the land–water interface at the shoreline. The wave period- and depth-averaged governing equations, which conserve mass, momentum, energy and wave action, are discretised explicitly by means of an Adams–Bashforth second-order finite difference technique on adaptive hierarchical staggered quadtree grids. Grid adaptation is achieved through seeding points distributed according to flow criteria (e.g. local current gradients). The model is verified for nearshore circulation at a sinusoidal beach and nearshore currents at a multi-cusped beach. Reasonable agreement is obtained with experimental data from da Silva Lima [da Silva Lima, S.S.L., 1981. Wave-induced Nearshore Currents. PhD Thesis, Department of Civil Engineering, University of Liverpool] and Borthwick et al. [Borthwick, A.G.L., Foote, Y.L.M., Ridehalgh, A., 1997. Nearshore measurements at a cusped beach in the UK Coastal Research Facility, Coastal Dynamics '97, Plymouth, 953–962]. The modelling approach presented herein should be useful in simulating nearshore processes in complicated natural coastal domains. Of particular value is the local grid enrichment capability, which permits refined modelling of important localised flow behaviour such as rip currents and surf-zone circulation systems. 相似文献
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Experimental and Numerical Study of Wave-Induced Long-Shore Currents on A Mild Slope Beach 总被引：4，自引：0，他引：4
1.Introduction Long shorecurrenthasbecomethesubjectofextensiveworldwideresearchformanyyears.The purposeofthestudyistounderstandandpredicttheprocessesofsedimenttransport,shorelineevolu tionandpollutanttransportinthenear shorezoneundertheactionofwaves.Goda(2001)regarded thesuspendedsedimentastheprincipalloadinsedimenttransportandtheeffectoflong shorecurrents wasemphasized.Theeffectofwavesonpollutanttransportwasstudiedbynumericalmodelandfield experiment(TaoandHan,2002;Rodriguezetal.,1995),andth… 相似文献
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Morphodynamics of a bar-trough surf zone 总被引：3，自引：0，他引：3
A field study was made of the distinguishing morphodynamic processes operating in a surf zone which perennially exhibits accentuated bar-trough topography (the “longshore-bar-trough” and “rhytmic-bar-and-beach” states as described by Wright and Short, 1984). Characteristic features of the morphology include a shallow bar with a steep shoreward face, a deep trough, and a steep beach face. This morphology, which is favored by moderate breaker heights and small tidal ranges, strongly controls the coupled suite of hydrodynamic processes. In contrast to fully dissipative surf zones, the bar-trough surf zone is not at all saturated and oscillations at incident wave frequency remain dominant from the break point to the subaerial beach. The degree of incident wave groupiness does not change appreciably across the surf zone. Infragravity standing waves which, in dissipative surf zones, dominate the inshore energy, remain energetically secondary and occur at higher frequencies in the bar trough surf zone. Analyses of the field data combined with numerical simulations of leaky mode and edge wave nodal—antinodal positions over observed surf-zone profiles, indicate that the frequencies which prevail are favored by the resonant condition of antinodes over the bar and nodes in the trough. Standing waves which would have nodes over the bar are suppressed. Sediment resuspension in the surf zone appears to be largely attributable to the incident waves which are the main source of bed shear stress. In addition, the extra near-bottom eddy viscosity provided by the reformed, non-breaking waves traversing the trough significantly affects the vertical velocity profile of the longshore current. Whereas the bar is highly mobile in terms of onshore—offshore migration rates, the beach face and inner regions of the trough are remarkably stable over time. 相似文献
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Limiting accessibility to a fishing area can reduce fishing effort effectively and may therefore promote local recovery of depleted stocks. In January 2002, beach driving was banned in South Africa, thereby reducing angler access to large areas of the coastline, particularly in less-developed areas. In November 2001 a project had been established in the St Lucia Marine Reserve, on the east coast of South Africa, to compare surf-zone fish populations inside a no-take sanctuary zone with those in an adjacent exploited area. Subsequent to the ban, the aim of the project was adapted such that surf-zone fish populations were monitored for potential recovery in what had been the exploited area, located to the north of Cape Vidal, which anglers could no longer access easily, because of the prohibition on beach driving. Standardised research fishing was conducted at two sites in the previously exploited area and two sites in the no-take sanctuary. Conventional stock-status indicators showed evidence of recovery in the four most common species caught in the previously exploited area, in terms of both abundance and biomass. Generalised additive mixed models were used to account for the influence of targeting specific species; however, subtle differences in habitat between the sampling sites, improved angling skill over time, variability in recruitment, and differential species-specific responses complicated interpretation of results. The implications of the findings are discussed in terms of the future monitoring and management of marine protected areas both within the St Lucia Marine Reserve and farther afield. 相似文献
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根据华南沿海不同区域和不同形态海滩的地形和碎波参数计算分析，得出本区存在着４种平均海滩状态：（１）消散优势型海滩；（２）沿岸坝－槽型海滩；（３）沿岸坝沟或低潮阶地型海滩；（４）反射优势型海滩。华南海滩状态除有长期的侵蚀趋势外，存在明显的季节演变，它与波浪作用的变化关系密切；此外，人为建造的海岸工程也可引起海滩状态的变化，今后在其开发利用中必须予以注意。 相似文献
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栖息于潮间带的海生动物中,营底内生活的种类占很大的比例。这类动物以独特的生活方式适应或克服潮间带的各种不利条件而得到生存和繁衍。从报道来看现代海洋底内动物泂穴的研究具有多方面的意义。如某些潮间带底内动物的鉴定,仅以外部形态作依据显然不够,还需以其他生态资料,如粪便、洞穴、卵块等作参考。有些潮间带动物的地理分布范围与其营底内生活有关，它们可以借助洞穴的保护而渡过寒暖不适的气候。更重要的是这方面研究能对古生态学和地史学问題的探讨提供科学依据。有很多种潮间带底内动物洞穴、排出物和爬行痕迹等被作为“生活遗迹”而保存在化石中,因此这类化石的沉积岩层实际上已成为该类动物生存发展年代的记载。但是,在岩层古生态学分析研究中,比较困难的是如何区别古代生物居住、死亡或埋藏的地点,这个同题涉及到对沉积物形成的地点和过程的确定,进一步就可用这些资料来研究古代海岸变迁和海面的升降。就潮间带底内动物的居住和死亡地点(埋藏与死亡地点也可以不同)来说,有的可能一致(如某些不太活动的种类),有的则不一致(如贝类)，作为古生态学依据,各具其长短,贝类无洞穴化石,其贝壳可成为化石,但埋藏与生活地点往往不一致;蟹类的优点是洞穴能成化石，其上并留有爬行痕迹;洞穴化石的埋藏与动物原来生活地点一致(亦有个別情况不一致)。早在地史年代就已有不少虾蟹类遗体及生活迹迹化石被发现:因此，现代潮间带蟹类洞穴的研究不仅对认识或鉴定古代甲売类动物有价值,而且对进一步鉴定种类、寻找演化线索和促进古生态学的发展都具有重要意义。
青岛潮间带在我国北方沿岸潮间带中颇具代表性。潮汐是规则的半日潮。
著者曾于1954-1964年,选以下四个点进行了调查:1,沧口潮间带,位于胶州湾内东北区中部,座东向西，坡度小的泥质和泥沙质滩涂;2.沙子口潮间带,位于青岛以东,为沙质滩涂;3.湛山湾潮间带:位青岛以东近郊,为沙质滩涂;4.大黑澜潮间带,位于胶州湾口,为岩石岸滩。每月进行二次大潮采集,每一采样点取两个定量(50×50厘米)样品和若于定性补充样品。从1963年5月至1964年9月,结合甲壳类生态进行了专题调查,本文就是根据上述调查,在软底质滩涂所获11种蟹类材料总结的,对所见各种蟹类的洞穴均经现场观察、测量并作了详细记录和拍照。对同一种蟹类洞穴的形态在不同地点和时间内所出现的变化也给予了特别的注意。
本文定稿过程中征得了山东海洋学院李嘉泳及本所曾呈奎,刘瑞玉、郑执中、吴宝铃、齐钟彦、马绣同等同志的修改意见,文中插图、照片由王兴虞、宋华中同志给予帮助,在此一并表示感谢。 相似文献
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Spatial and temporal variation of diverse inter‐tidal algal assemblages in Southwest O‘ahu 
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下载免费PDF全文 Spatial and temporal variation in tropical inter‐tidal communities is poorly known, making predictions about the effects of climate change and other anthropogenic disturbances difficult. Along Southwest O‘ahu, Hawai'i, local residents are concerned about the environmental effects of coastal development and the perceived loss of targeted algal species, which are collected for human consumption. To describe the coastal benthic community and better understand the processes that form and maintain it, the abundance and composition of macroalgae were sampled in the region's inter‐tidal zone from 2006 to 2015. Sixty‐six macroalgal species and two broad algal assemblages were identified that corresponded to substrate topography and sand influence at a similar tidal elevation. Along flat carbonate benches with a sand beach, Phaeophyceae and Rhodophytes occurred in almost equal proportions, while shores with slightly more topographic relief and angular substrate were dominated by Rhodophytes. Foliose or turf algal forms were most common. Surveys captured the local invasion of an alga, Avrainvillea sp. and significant declines in abundant macroalgae in 2015 after a period of unseasonably warm, calm water. Temporal changes in algal assemblages were related to maximum water temperature and wave height but not precipitation. Thus, algal assemblages appear to be structured by local beach morphology as they interact with sand and wave activity and episodically by unusual weather events. However, manipulation and continuous monitoring of the algal assemblages coupled to sensing of the localized environment is necessary to confirm factors related to assembly maintenance and recent species shifts. 相似文献
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《Coastal Engineering》2006,53(4):349-362
This paper provides information on the experimental set-up, data collection methods and results to date for the project “Large scale modelling of coarse grained beaches”, undertaken at the Large Wave Channel (GWK) of FZK in Hannover by an international group of researchers in Spring 2002. The main objective of the experiments was to provide full scale measurements of cross-shore processes on gravel and mixed beaches for the verification and further development of cross-shore numerical models of gravel and mixed sediment beaches. Identical random and regular wave tests were undertaken for a gravel beach and a mixed sand/gravel beach set up in the flume. Measurements included profile development, water surface elevation along the flume, internal pressures in the swash zone, piezometric head levels within the beach, run-up, flow velocities in the surf-zone and sediment size distributions.The purpose of the paper is to present to the scientific community the experimental procedure, a summary of the data collected, some initial results, as well as a brief outline of the on-going research being carried out with the data by different research groups. The experimental data is available to all the scientific community following submission of a statement of objectives, specification of data requirements and an agreement to abide with the GWK and EU protocols. 相似文献