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1.
The experimental investigation of water waves breaking over a barred beach in a glass walled flume is presented. The time series of the water levels along the flume were measured using wave gauges and video imaging of the water surface, providing estimates of the mean wave-heights and water levels at various positions along the flume. The instantaneous velocity fields were measured using digital correlation image velocimetry for positions beyond the initial breaking point. The mass (/velocity) and momentum fluxes, and kinetic energies were computed from the velocity flow fields by means of phase ensemble averaging and then time averaging of relevant quantities derived from the instantaneous velocity fields. These parameters reached a maximum value some distance shorewards of the break point on the bar. The relative density of the fluid in the crest of the wave, estimated using the forward and reverse velocity fluxes, was found to be in the range from 0.4 to 0.8. Preliminary analysis of the momentum fluxes and mean water levels indicates a decreasing dynamic pressure shorewards of a peak that occurs shortly after wave breaking. 相似文献
2.
基于波浪作用下软质海崖的侵蚀机理，考虑波浪水动力和海崖土质条件，建立了一种波浪作用下软质海崖侵蚀量的计算模型，利用室内水槽试验进行验证和参数回归，并使用该模型计算了平潭岛东北部软质海崖的侵蚀状况，与实测数据进行对比分析。研究发现：（1）海崖最大侵蚀量基本发生在静水位线处，随波浪持续作用，最大侵蚀量位置有所上移，当波浪持续作用一定时间时侵蚀基本停止；（2）当波高超过某一临界值时，侵蚀才会发生，而波高非常大的波浪对侵蚀的贡献相对不是很大；（3）平潭岛东北部的两处海崖，每次强台风连续作用8h时的侵蚀距离计算值为0.31m和0.25m。 相似文献
3.
The wave transmission and reflection characteristics of a rigidly fixed surface and submerged horizontal plate were investigated experimentally in detail for a wide range of incident wave steepnesses and for different depths of submerge of the plate in deep water conditions in regular water wave fields. The experiments were conducted at the Ocean Engineering Centre, Indian Institute of Technology, Madras, India, in a wave flume 10 m long, 0.3 m wide and in a constant water depth of 0.8 m. The horizontal plate is 0.22 m thick and 1.2 m in length, covering the enrire width of the flume. From the present investigation, it is found that for a rigid surface plate, the coefficient of transmission is a minimum and the coefficient of reflection is a maximum, but the maximum value of the coefficient of energy loss occurs for plates submerged closer to the still-water level (SWL) and not for the surface plate. It is also found that the value of the coefficient of reflection increases with the increase in the value of the Reddy-Neelamani (RN) number, the ratio of horizontal water particle excursion at the bottom of the plate in its absence to the length of the plate. The coefficient of transmission is found to decrease rapidly with increase in the value of RN number up to 0.1. The wave transmission is only 5% for RN from 0.1 to 0.2. It is also found that for RN number greater than 0.04, the minimum energy dissipation is consistently about 60% of the incident wave energy. 相似文献
4.
The erosion depth and the sheet flow layer thickness represent two characteristic parameters for transport processes in oscillatory sheet flow. Formulas for these parameters under regular waves have been applied to obtain characteristic statistical values under random waves. The applicability of the method for practical purposes is illustrated by two examples using data typical for field conditions at water depths of 70 m (Ekofisk location in the North Sea) and 15 m, respectively. Two fictive storms based on the Dohmen-Janssen and Hanes [Dohmen-Janssen, C.M., Hanes, D.M., 2005. Sheet flow and suspended sediment due to wave groups in a large wave flume. Cont. Shelf Res. 25, 333–347] data from large scale wave flume tests have also been utilized to demonstrate how the return period of the sheet flow layer thickness observed in their experiments can be estimated. 相似文献
5.
The estimates of wave-induced dynamic pressures around surface piercing twin-tandem rigid vertical circular cylinders fixed at the bottom of a wave flume, obtained using the source distribution method, are compared with the measured values. The influence of flume confinement on dynamic pressures is estimated by the method of images. The experiments are carried out on cylinders of 40 cm diameter mostly in deep water conditions in a wave flume 4 m wide, for different values of scattering parameters and spacings between the cylinders. 相似文献
6.
7.
The wave induced dynamic pressures around a circular cylinder of diameter 0.2 m due to regular waves were measured in a wave flume in a water depth of 1 m and in a wave basin in a water depth of 3 m. The experimental investigations were carried out with the cylinder inclined along and against the direction of wave propagation. The least-squares technique was employed to evaluate the coefficients of drag (CD) and inertia (CM) from the sectional force time histories obtained by integrating the measured circumferential pressure distribution. The variation of drag and inertia coefficients are presented as a function of Keulegan-Carpenter number (KC) for different inclinations of the cylinder. The comparison between the measured and the theoretical force derived from the evaluated hydrodynamic coefficients is found to be good. 相似文献
8.
Understanding the sediment transport and the resulting scour around coastal structures such as pile breakwaters under local extreme wave conditions is important for the foundation safety of various coastal structures. This study reports a wave-flume experiment investigating the scour induced by solitary waves at a pile breakwater, which consists of a row of closely spaced large piles. A wave blacking gate with a simple operation procedure in the experiment was designed to eliminate possible multiple reflections of the solitary wave inside the flume. An underwater laser scanner and a point probe were used in combination to provide high-resolution data of the bed profile around the pile breakwater. Effects of incident wave height and local water depth on the maximum scour depth, the maximum deposition height and the total scour and deposition volumes were examined. An existing empirical formula describing the evolution of the scour at a single pile in current or waves was extended to describe the scour at the pile breakwater under the action of multiple solitary waves, and new empirical coefficients were obtained by fitting the formula to the new experimental data to estimate the equilibrium scour depth. It appears that the maximum scour depth and the total scour volume are two reliable quantities for validation of numerical models developed for the scour around pile breakwaters under highly nonlinear wave conditions. 相似文献
9.
Leopoldo Franco Jimmy Geeraerts Riccardo Briganti Marc Willems Giorgio Bellotti Julien De Rouck 《Coastal Engineering》2009
The paper presents the comparison between the results of small-scale model tests and prototype measurements of wave overtopping at a rubble-mound breakwater. The specific structure investigated is the west breakwater of the yacht harbour of Rome at Ostia (Italy) and is characterized by a gentle seaward slope (1/4) and by a long, shallow foreshore. The laboratory tests firstly aimed at carefully reproducing two measured storms in which overtopping occurred and was measured. The tests have been carried out in two independent laboratories, in a wave flume and in a wave basin, hence using a two-dimensional (2-D) and a three-dimensional (3-D) setup. In the 2-D laboratory tests no overtopping occurred during the storm reproductions; in the 3-D case discharges five to ten times smaller than those observed in prototype have been measured. This indicates the existence of model and scale effects. These effects have been discussed on the basis of the results of several parametric tests, which have been carried out in both laboratories, in addition to the storm reproductions, varying wave and water level characteristics. Final comparison of all the performed tests with 86 prototype measurements still suggests the existence of scale and model effects that induce strong underestimation of overtopping discharge at small scale. The scale reproduction of wave breaking on the foreshore, together with the 3-D features of the prototype conditions and the absence of wind stress in the laboratory measurements, have been individuated as the main sources of scale and model effects. The paper also provides a comparison between the data and a largely used formula for wave overtopping discharges in the presence of structures similar to the one at hand. The suitable value of a roughness factor that appears in that formula is investigated and good agreement is found with other recent researches on rubble-mound breakwaters. 相似文献
10.
本文在时域非线性数值波浪水槽中，研究了不同风速条件下极端波浪的特性。采用推板造波的方式生成非线性波浪，基于Jeffrey遮蔽理论将风压项引入自由面动力学边界条件来模拟风压作用，通过高阶边界元法和混合欧拉-拉格朗日时间步进法来求解初边值问题。通过与已发表的聚焦波群实验结果对比验证了该数值模型的准确性，并研究了风压对极端波浪的最大波高、聚焦位置的偏移和波浪谱的演变等波浪性质的影响。本文进一步在数值波浪水槽中引入均匀水流，来模拟风生流对波浪演变的影响。结果表明，风压的存在会少量增大极端波浪的最大波高，波浪的聚焦和解焦过程伴随着明显的能量传递，并且风生流进一步导致了波浪聚焦位置的偏移。 相似文献
11.
This paper is focussed on the derivation of a set of general scaling laws valid for both beach and dune erosion volumes based on scaling law analysis, existing and new experimental results. This latter experiments concern beach profile changes in three different laboratory flumes using identical wave conditions based on Froude scaling. The experiments with planar sloping beaches have been done at three scales: large-scale Hannover wave flume experiment (beach slope of 1 to 15), medium scale Barcelona wave flume experiment (beach slope of 1 to 15) and small-scale Delft wave flume experiments (beach slopes of 1 to 10, 15 and 20) using an identical wave train of irregular waves (single topped spectrum). 相似文献
12.
This work presents a new approach for simulating the random waves in viscous fluids and the associated bottom shear stresses. By generating the incident random waves in a numerical wave flume and solving the unsteady two-dimensional Navier-Stokes equations and the fully nonlinear free surface boundaiy conditions for the fluid flows in the flume, the viscous flows and laminar bottom shear stresses induced by random waves axe determined. The deterministic spectral amplitude method implemented by use of the fast Fourier transform algorithm was adopted to generate the incident random waves. The accuracy of the numerical scheme is confirmed by comparing the predicted wave spectrum with the target spectrum and by comparing the nanlerical transfer function between the shear stress and the surface elevation with the theoretical transfer function. The maximum bottom shear stress caused by random waves, computed by this wave model, is compared with that obtained by Myrhaug＇ s model （1995）. The transfer function method is also employed to determine the maximum shear stress, and is proved accurate. 相似文献
13.
Turbulence measurements have been carried out in the surf zone of a wave flume. The purpose of the measurements is to determine the length scale of the turbulence generated by the wave breaking. The length scale of the turbulence is estimated on basis of the correlation between simultaneous measurements of the vertical turbulent fluctuations, taken at different levels above the bed. 相似文献
14.
An experimental study, conducted in the large wave flume of CIEM in Barcelona, is presented to evaluate the effects of Posidonia oceanica meadows on the wave height damping and on the wave induced velocities. The experiments were performed for irregular waves from intermediate to shallow waters with the dispersion parameter h/λ ranging from 0.09 to 0.29. Various configurations of the artificial P. oceanica meadow were tested for two stem density patterns (360 and 180 stems/m2) and for plant's height ranging from 1/3 to 1/2 of the water depth.The results for wave height attenuation are in good agreement with the analytical expressions found in literature, based on the assumption that the energy loss over the vegetated field is due to the drag forces. Based on this hypothesis, an empirical relationship for the drag coefficient related to the Reynolds number, Re, is proposed. The Reynolds number, calculated using the artificial P. oceanica leaf width as the length scale and the maximum orbital velocity over the meadow edge as the characteristic velocity scale, ranges from 1000 to 3500 and the drag coefficient Cd ranges from 0.75 to 2.0.The calculated wave heights, using the analytical expression from literature and the proposed relationship for the estimation of Cd, are in satisfactory agreement with those measured. Wave orbital velocities are shown to be significantly attenuated inside the meadow and just above the flume bed as indicated by the calculation of an attenuation parameter. Near the meadow edge, energy transfer is found in spectral wave velocities from the longer to the shorter wave period components. From the analysis it is shown that the submerged vegetation attenuates mostly longer waves. 相似文献
15.
确定几何缩尺比和模拟的环境参数是开展物理模型实验的基础。为了提供海洋监测仪器设备模型测试时所需的选取环境参数及其模型值的依据,给出了"工作海况"和"极端海况"条件下各典型海域的风、浪、流等环境参数,确定了两个典型几何缩尺比对应的模型参数,并给出典型设备特别是海洋能利用装置在水槽进行模型实验时的模拟参数选取。 相似文献
16.
The physical simulation method of wave groups in a wave flume is proposed and verified by the exper- iments. The experimental results demonstrate that random waves with desired wave groupiness, which simultaneously includes the wave group height and length, can be generated satisfactorily at the specified position in a wave flume using the proposed method. Furthermore, the transformation properties of the wave groupiness along the fiat-bottomed wave flume are investigated based on the physically simulated waves. Associated proposals with the physical simulation of wave groups are given. 相似文献
17.
E.V. Koutandos 《Ocean Engineering》2011,38(1):34-48
In the present study, wave interaction with a fixed, partially immersed breakwater of box type with a plate attached (impermeable-permeable) at the front part of the structure is investigated numerically and experimentally. The large scale laboratory experiments on the interaction of regular waves with the special breakwater were conducted in the wave flume of Laboratori d’Enginyeria Marνtima (LIM) at Universitat Politecnica de Catalunya (UPC) in Barcelona. Experimental results are compared with numerical results obtained with the use of the Cornell breaking Wave and Structures (COBRAS) wave model. The effects of an impermeable as well as a permeable plate attached to the bottom of the breakwater on its hydrodynamic characteristics (wave transmission, reflection, dissipation, velocity and turbulence kinetic energy) are investigated. Computed velocities and turbulence kinetic energy in the vicinity of the structure indicate the effects of the breakwater with the attached (impermeable/permeable) plate on the flow pattern and the turbulence structure. The attached impermeable plate at the front part of the breakwater enhances significantly the efficiency of the structure in attenuating the incident waves. The permeable plate reduces the efficiency of the structure since wave energy is transmitted through the porous body of the plate. Based on the hydrodynamic characteristics it is inferred that the breakwater with an impermeable plate attached to its bottom is more efficient. The comparison of horizontal and vertical forces acting on the breakwater for all cases examined reveals that plate porosity influences slightly vertical force and severely horizontal force acting on the structure, reducing maximum values in both cases. 相似文献
18.
A series of experiments were conducted in a super-wave flume (300 m×5 m×5.2 m) to examine the low-frequency motion induced by waves with different incident steepness, sloping gradients and normalized frequency (sideband space). Two kinds of waves including initial uniform wave train and modulated wave train (one carrier with a pair of sidebands) are utilized for incident wave conditions. From the experimental results, it is found that for a given slope gradient the infra-gravity wave component decreases as wave nonlinearity increases and frequency downshift is a predominant factor. Furthermore, the magnitude of low-frequency component decreases with slope gradients for a given initial wave condition. In addition, the maximum value of low-frequency motion is found to be close to the normalized frequency, δ=1.0. 相似文献
19.
Articulated towers are a compliant type of platform particularly suited for deep water applications. In the design of articulated towers, it is very important that the motion characteristics include sufficient stability, less acceleration in the deck and the smallest possible loading on the articulated joint. The mass distribution along the tower also plays an important role in the motion characteristics of the tower. Multi-leg articulated towers with three or more towers (legs or shafts), which have been developed from the conventional single tower have reduced horizontal movements and have more deck area compared to the single-leg articulated towers. The experimental and analytical investigations on such towers are not available in the published literature. In this paper, both analytical treatment and an experimental program for a three-leg articulated tower model have been reported. The effect of mass distributions on the variations of the bending moment and the deck accelerations are also presented. The model has been tested in a 2 m wave flume for various wave frequencies and wave heights of regular waves. The model is also analysed using a computer program developed, and the comparison of theoretical results with the experimental results is presented. 相似文献
20.
利用实验室风浪槽内测得的波面序列资料估计风浪外频谱。通过与实测风浪内频谱的比较,研究实测风浪外频谱的谱形特征,探讨海浪外频谱与内频谱的相似性问题。此外,还检验一种理论海浪外频谱。 相似文献