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1.
The method of multiple scales is used to deduce equations for three nonlinear approximations of a wave disturbance in a basin of constant depth covered with broken ice. In deducing these equations, we take into account the space and time variability of the wave profile in the expression for the velocity potential on the basin surface. These equations are used to construct uniformly suitable asymptotic expansions up to quantities of the third order of smallness for the liquid-velocity potential and elevations of the basin surface formed by a periodic running wave of finite amplitude. We analyze the dependence of the amplitude-phase characteristics of elevations of the basin surface on the thickness of ice, nonlinearity of its vertical acceleration, and the amplitude and wavelength of the fundamental harmonic. 相似文献
2.
《Coastal Engineering》2005,52(5):391-407
A numerical solver is presented of the modified time-independent mild-slope equation, which incorporates energy dissipation. Using a second-order parabolic approximation, the following external boundary conditions are modelled: open and fully transmitting to both incoming and outgoing waves; partially reflecting, and; fully absorbing. Discretisation of the governing equation and boundary conditions is by means of a second-order accurate central difference scheme. The resulting sparse-banded matrix is solved using an inexpensive banded solver with Gaussian elimination. The numerical predictions are in excellent agreement with the analytical solution for the interaction of non-breaking waves with an array of vertical surface-piercing circular cylinders on a horizontal bed. Results are compared with those for the same array on various seabed topographies. The model is robust and can be used for wave propagation in complex geometries. It has fewer restrictions associated with wave obliqueness at boundaries than traditional models based on the mild-slope equation. 相似文献
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4.
A new global archive of wind wave characteristics has been developed based on Voluntary Observing Ship (VOS) data for the period of 1888–2015. In addition to the basic meteorological variables, we have derived the records of visually observed heights, periods, and wind sea and swell directions. The main parameters have been supplemented by significant wave height and dominant period estimates, as well as wave geometry characteristics: steepness, wave age, and wavelength. Multistage quality control has been applied to correct or eliminate spurious values. Data are presented as individual records for every month and as original monthly means fields for every parameter. Easy access and use, along with representative data, make the new archive particularly special and applicable in different ways without any additional preprocessing. Visual wave observations assimilated in the new archive can be used to develop global and regional climatologies, estimate extreme wave characteristics and long-term trends in wave climate, verify and compare them with satellite measurements and model analysis, and test the theoretical laws of ocean wave development and propagation. 相似文献
5.
J. Christopher Rutherford Shane Blackett Colin Blackett Laurel Saito Robert J. Davies‐Colley 《新西兰海洋与淡水研究杂志》2013,47(5):707-721
A computer model for stream water temperature was developed, and tested in a small pasture stream near Hamilton, New Zealand. The model quantifies shading by riparian vegetation, hillsides, and stream banks using three coefficients: canopy angle, topography angle, and canopy shade factor. Shade was measured directly and found to vary significantly along the channel. Using the maximum measured shade, a close match was achieved between observed and predicted daily maximum and minimum water and bed sediment temperature. Model predictions of incoming and outgoing long‐wave radiation flux closely matched measurements, but there were unexplained discrepancies in short‐wave radiation flux. Model predictions indicate that moderate shade levels (c. 70%) may be sufficient in temperate climates to restore headwater pasture stream temperatures to 20°C, an estimate of the thermal tolerance for sensitive invertebrates. 相似文献
6.
完全非线性孤立波的直墙反射 总被引：2，自引：2，他引：0
报道了应用边界积分方法模拟完全非线性孤立波的传播与直墙反射,给出了波形演变过程。结果表明,本模型对计算孤立波的传播与直墙反射是有效的。三阶Boussinesq方程的孤立波解比低阶方程的孤立波解更接近完全非线性的数值解.当来波波高增大时,孤立波直墙反射的相位滞后变小。若考虑大波高孤立波的直墙反射或波——波相互作用,一阶理论预报的相位滞后往往低估实际情况。 相似文献
7.
《Coastal Engineering》2005,52(6):513-533
Using the perturbation method, a time dependent parabolic equation is developed based on the elliptic mild slope equation with dissipation term. With the time dependent parabolic equation employed as the governing equation, a numerical model for wave propagation including dissipation term in water of slowly varying topography is presented in curvilinear coordinates. In the model, the self-adaptive grid generation method is employed to generate a boundary-fitted and varying spacing mesh. The numerical tests show that the effects of dissipation term should be taken into account if the distance of wave propagation is large, and that the outgoing boundary conditions can be treated more effectively by introduction of the dissipation term into the numerical model. The numerical model is able to give good results of simulating wave propagation for waters of complicatedly boundaries and effectively predict physical processes of wave propagation. Moreover, the errors of the analytical solution deduced by Kirby et al. (1994) [Kirby, J.T., Dalrymple, R.A., Kabu, H., 1994. Parabolic approximation for water waves in conformal coordinate systems. Coastal Engineering 23, 185–213.] from the small-angle parabolic approximation of the mild-slope equation for the case of waves between diverging breakwaters in a polar coordinate system are corrected. 相似文献
8.
Wave forces on a vertical truncated circular cylinder in Stokes waves with the wave slopes ranging from 0.06 to 0.24, are measured in a wave tank. The higher harmonic wave forces are compared with the available values from theories of the FNV (Faltisen–Newman–Vinje) model and Varyani solution. The first harmonic horizontal forces measured are much larger than the theoretical values from the FNV model, while the first harmonic vertical forces are well predicted by the Varyani theory. It was also found that the FNV model significantly overpredicts the second harmonic horizontal forces in high frequency waves, but under predicts the third harmonic forces. The differences between the actual measurement and the theory, in the second and third harmonic horizontal forces, become smaller at low wave frequencies as the wave slope increases. In addition, the transverse instabilities in the incoming waves with high wave slope were observed, which is due to the nonlinear modulation. Measurements were, thus, carried out before the instability occurred. 相似文献
9.
It is well known that wave induced bottom oscillations become more and more negligible when the water depth exceeds half the wavelength of the surface gravity wave. However, it was experimentally demonstrated for regular waves that the bottom pressure oscillations at both first and second wave harmonic frequencies could be significant even for incoming waves propagating in deep water condition in the presence of a submerged plate [16]. For a water depth h of about the wavelength of the wave, measurements under the plate (depth immersion of top of plate h/6, length h/2) have shown bottom pressure variations at the wave frequency, up to thirty times larger than the pressure expected in the absence of the plate. In this paper, not only regular but also irregular wave are studied together with wave following current conditions. This behavior is numerically verified by use of a classical linear theory of waves. The wave bottom effect is explained through the role of evanescent modes and horizontally oscillating water column under the plate which still exist whatever the water depth. Such a model, which allows the calculation of the velocity fields, has shown that not only the bottom pressure but also the near bed fluid velocity are enhanced. Two maxima are observed on both sides of the location of the plate, at a distance of the plate increasing with the water depth. The possible impact of such near bed dynamics is then discussed for field conditions thanks to a scaling based on a Froude similarity. It is demonstrated that these structures may have a significant impact at the sea bed even in very deep water conditions, possibly enhanced in the presence of current. 相似文献
10.
多向不规则波浪的确定性模拟 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
波浪波动时间过程及波列的模拟，对于开展实际波浪对于工程建筑物的作用具有重要的意义。本文采用线性叠加的单叠加模型，建立了多向不规则波浪的确定性模拟方法。基于理论模拟的规则波、单向不规则波和多向不规则波，验证了波浪确定性模拟方法的有效性。定性地对比分析了模拟波列和已知波列的一致性；定量地研究了模拟波浪在空间范围rr/Ls的误差分布情况(rr表示指定位置与给定位置的空间距离，Ls为有效波长)。并且建议，采用本文方法进行波浪确定性模拟时，最佳的浪高仪间距应小于0.12Ls。 相似文献
11.
方形网箱水平波浪力的迭加计算和实验验证 总被引：4，自引：3，他引：4
采用小直径圆柱体绕流理论和网渔具理论为基础的经验水动力计算法，分别考虑网箱框架是刚性体、网衣和绳索是柔性体的特征，结合正弦波理论对方形网箱及其构件受到的水平波浪力特性进行了分析研究，理论给出了波浪力迭加计算法，并把计算结果与小尺度的网箱水槽实验进行对比验证。结果表明，计算数值与试验数据较接近，平均误差率在15％以内。网箱水平波浪力呈周期性、不对称变化，在波浪周期小于0.72s时，主要以框架的波浪力为主，反之以网衣的为主。在波长为0.8m、周期为0.72s、水深为0.7m、波高为68.3mm情形下，计算结果显示网箱的框架尺寸和形状及其系泊、布局的选择应根据实际海况而定，网箱高度可适当增加，当设置水层下降深度相对于网箱高度比率为20％-40％，时，波浪力峰值下降相对率达68.03％-88.20％，表明可以较大程度地降低其波浪力。 相似文献
12.
Shenn-Yu Chao Dong-Shan Ko Ren-Chieh Lien Ping-Tung Shaw 《Journal of Oceanography》2007,63(6):897-911
The Luzon Strait is blocked by two meridional ridges at depths, with the east ridge somewhat higher than the west ridge in
the middle reaches of the Strait. Previous numerical models identified the Luzon Strait as the primary generation site of
internal M2 tides entering the northern South China Sea (Niwa and Hibiya, 2004), but the role of the west-versus-east ridge was uncertain.
We used a hydrostatic model for the northern South China Sea and a nonhydrostatic, process-oriented model to evaluate how
the west ridge of Luzon Strait modifies westward propagation of internal tides, internal bores and internal solitary waves.
The dynamic role of the west ridge depends strongly on the characteristics of internal waves and is spatially inhomogeneous.
For M2 tides, both models identify the west ridge in the middle reaches of Luzon Strait as a dampener of incoming internal waves
from the east ridge. In the northern Luzon Strait, the west ridge is quite imposing in height and becomes a secondary generation
site for M2 internal tides. If the incoming wave is an internal tide, previous models suggested that wave attenuation depends crucially
on how supercritical the west ridge slope is. If the incoming wave is an internal bore or internal solitary wave, our investigation
suggests a loss of sensitivity to the supercritical slope for internal tides, leaving ridge height as the dominant factor
regulating the wave attenuation. Mechanisms responsible for the ridge-induced attenuation are discussed. 相似文献
13.
LAGFD-WAM海浪数值模式是一种第三代海浪数值模式，通过求解波数谱平衡方程，并考虑风输入、波浪破碎耗散、底摩擦耗散、波波非线性相互作用和波流相互作用等源函数，模拟波数空间下的海浪方向谱，并依此获得海浪的波高、周期和平均波向。该模式的一个显著特点是采用特征线嵌入格式求解海浪的传播。在进行浅水区域的海浪模拟时，特征线嵌入格式的数值计算方案是否合理对海浪数值模拟结果产生直接的影响。为此LAGFD-WAM海浪数值模式提出了一种新的特征线混合数值计算格式，并应用于浅水海浪数值模拟。结果表明，采用该计算方法，能够使数值模拟结果与实测结果很好符合。 相似文献
14.
斜向入反射波分离的数值模拟研究 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
改进了Goda分离单向入反射波频谱的方法，给出的新方法可应用于斜向入反射波的分离，且测波仪器对的方向可按任意角度布置。当两测点在入射波方向上的投影距离为入射波半波长的倍数时，该方法会出现奇异问题。建议取两测点在入射波方向上投影距离为峰频波长的0．05－0．45倍。这时可得到较好的结果。文中采用数值模拟的方法对模拟波列进行了分离，分离出的波谱与输入的靶谱基本一致，通过分离出的入反射波频谱计算出的各波面过程与输入的各过程线也基本相近，并能较准确地给出结构的反射系数，由此说明该方法是可靠的。 相似文献
15.
本文基于海浪波折射现象和浅水波理论,提出了一种基于单景高分辨率光学遥感影像的浅海地形提取方法。首先,基于浅水波理论推导出适用于浅海区域的水深与海浪波长、频率的定量关系,针对近岸光学遥感图像复杂的海浪特征,讨论了两种海浪波长提取方法,即FFT方法和剖面线法。然后提出了基于长距离波长波动分析的海浪频率计算方法,解决了单景遥感影像的波浪频率计算难题。最后,利用单景QuickBird高分辨率光学遥感影像,以海南岛三亚湾为研究区域进行了应用实验,结果表明,对12m以浅的浅海区域,在不需要任何辅助参数的情况下,反演获得了浅海地形(DEM),经与1:25000比例尺海图的水深对比验证,地形趋势吻合良好,反演水深的均方根误差为1.07m,相对水深误差为16.2%,表明该方法适合于浅海水下地形的提取,且具有无需实测水深数据和环境参数的支持的优点。 相似文献
16.
根据现场地形在港池中建立三维珊瑚礁?潟湖?裂口海岸定床整体物理模型,采用波高传感器、流速仪和表面流速测量系统分别测量了规则波作用下珊瑚礁海岸不同位置的波浪和流场特征。结果表明:礁坪上,波高在向岸方向逐渐减小,总减小幅度为86.7%,增水先增大后减小,沿礁坪下降幅度为65.9%,水流以向岸流为主,存在着先增大后减小的趋势;潟湖中,波高靠近裂口处较大,中部最大值约为两侧最小值的2.8倍,增水则靠近裂口处最小,相比两侧最大值下降了25.5%,水流主要为对称地指向裂口的沿岸流,流速从两侧到裂口先增大后减小;裂口中波高变化不大,增水在靠近潟湖处最大,为礁坪上增水的47.6%,水流主要为离岸流,流速同样是先增大后减小。量化分析了环流驱动力、辐射应力与波面压力梯度的空间变化规律,发现礁坪上向岸流变化是平均水位梯度和辐射应力相互作用的结果,在裂口中的离岸流驱动力主要为辐射应力,而潟湖中的沿岸流变化由平均水位梯度决定的。 相似文献
17.
基于数值模拟的三维随机海面,从时间域和空间域两个角度对海浪的外观特征和内部结构间的关系进行了研究,得出了一些在工程应用上有参考价值的结果.文章认为,将波面看作是若干随机正弦波叠加的海浪结构模型,用于描述平稳、均匀和窄谱的海况时,其频谱分析结果与外观统计结果基本上是一致的;但是,当海面处于谱宽度较大的风浪或混合浪状态时,一些频谱分析结果必须经过修正才能应用.同一海况下,海面波动的时间过程和沿主波向的空间分布是明显不同的.当海面有突发性大浪时,外频谱能够很好地反映不平稳海况,而频谱则把这种不平稳性平滑了.文章着重讨论了波长和波陡的计算、频谱和外频谱的差异. 相似文献
18.
新型开孔工字板组合式防波堤波浪力特性试验研究 总被引：1，自引：1，他引：0
开孔工字板组合式防波堤是基于透空板式防波堤的一种新型结构形式,具有自重轻、材料省的特点。为充分了解新型开孔组合式防波堤的受力特性,基于室内水槽物理模型试验,测量新型开孔工字板组合式防波堤上的波压力与结构总力,研究相对波高H/d、相对波长L/B对该新型防波堤结构表面压力的影响,讨论了该新型防波堤所受波浪力荷载与相对波高H/d、相对波长L/B的关系。结果表明,相对波高H/d是决定新型防波堤结构表面波压力和结构总力的主要影响因素。该新型防波堤结构波浪力荷载以垂直方向受力为主,新型防波堤结构所受竖向总力远大于水平总力,最大可达到15倍。新型防波堤水平总力随相对波长L/B先增大后趋于稳定。相对波长L/B=3.617是防波堤结构水平总力变化幅度的分界点。 相似文献
19.
A microwave technique for the measurement of ocean wave spectra has been compared with wave gauge output during extensive field testing. The method is based on the dual-frequency technique for detecting long ocean waves by matching the modulation of short waves with the beat wavelength between two transmitted microwave frequencies. The new method, however, utilizes three microwave frequencies in order to reduce mean backscatter not related to short-wave modulation. Two prototype scatterometers have been built using three frequencies at L -band and at K u-band. Wave spectra have been measured by both radar systems which, when properly normalized, agree well with simultaneous in situ measurements taken by conventional wave gauges at the pier site. Thirteen sets of spectra have been computed, five of which correspond to a situation in which a local wind sea was generated and then decayed. The present experiment does not demonstrate the directionality of this new technique 相似文献
20.
The wave groups are studied by both conventional wave analysis methods and by the non-stationary Hilbert Huang Transform (HHT) method. Full-scale wave records containing abnormal waves are used. Instantaneous quantities, such as envelope, phase and frequency, are adopted to study the wave grouping. A refined definition of wave group is proposed considering that the wave process is simultaneously amplitude and frequency modulated. The validation of the proposed definition is conducted by analysis of numerical simulation data. Group parameters are proposed based on the time-frequency distribution of energy. An attempt is made to find the relationship between the characteristics of abnormal waves and the group characteristics. 相似文献