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1.
《Marine Geology》2005,216(3):169-189
Simultaneous high frequency field measurements of water depth, flow velocity and suspended sediment concentration were made at three fixed locations across the high tide swash and inner surf zones of a dissipative beach. The dominant period of the swash motion was 30–50 s and the results are representative of infragravity swash motion. Suspended sediment concentrations, loads and transport rates in the swash zone were almost one order of magnitude greater than in the inner surf zone. The vertical velocity gradient near the bed and the resulting bed shear stress at the start of the uprush was significantly larger than that at the end of the backwash, despite similar flow velocities. This suggests that the bed friction during the uprush was approximately twice that during the backwash.The suspended sediment profile in the swash zone can be described reasonably well by an exponential shape with a mixing length scale of 0.02–0.03 m. The suspended sediment transport flux measured in the swash zone was related to the bed shear stress through the Shields parameter. If the bed shear stress is derived from the vertical velocity gradient, the proportionality coefficient between shear stress and sediment transport rate is similar for the uprush and the backwash. If the bed shear stress is estimated using the free-stream flow velocity and a constant friction factor, the proportionality factor for the uprush is approximately twice that of the backwash. It is suggested that the uprush is a more efficient transporter of sediment than the backwash, because the larger friction factor during the uprush causes larger bed shear stresses for a given free-stream velocity. This increased transport competency of the uprush is necessary for maintaining the beach, otherwise the comparable strength and greater duration of the backwash would progressively remove sediment from the beach. 相似文献
2.
泉州湾泥沙运移特征的初步研究 总被引：4，自引：0，他引：4
泉州湾属于潮流、径流和波浪综合作用下的山地海湾,根据两次(1994年6月和2001年12月)水文泥沙实测资料,分析泉州湾悬浮泥沙和沉积物分布特征,研究其沉积物来源,并探讨北水道的沉积速率。悬浮泥沙含量自河口(湾顶)-湾口-外海逐渐降低。高值区出现在水道和河口,冬季高于夏季,大、中潮高于小潮。泉州湾沉积物分布与水动力强弱环境呈很好的对应关系。晋江携带入海的泥沙是研究区的主要物源：海岸侵蚀来沙与湾外来沙也提供了部分物源。南、北水道分别属于落潮槽与涨潮槽两种不同性质的水道。北水道沉积物较细,以沉积作用为主,其入口处淤积程度较轻,而在上游淤积程度相对较重;南水道流速较大,沉积物较粗,是泥沙输运主要通道,地形变化不明显。 相似文献
3.
《Coastal Engineering》2005,52(1):1-23
We develop solutions for the transport of suspended sediment by a single swash event following the collapse of a bore on a plane beach, and we investigate the morphodynamical role that such transport may play. Although the intrinsic asymmetry between uprush and backwash velocities tends to encourage the export of sediment, we find that swash events may be effective in distributing across the swash zone much or all of the sediment mobilised by bore collapse; additionally, settling lag effects may promote a weak onshore movement of sediment. We quantify both effects in terms of the properties of the sediment and of the swash event, and comment on the relationship between our findings and recent field studies of swash zone sediment transport. 相似文献
4.
At high bed shear stress sheet flows often occur in coastal waters in which high-concentration bedload sediments are transported in a thin layer near the bed. This paper firstly constructs a theoretical model (partial differential equations, PDEs) for the intense transport of non-cohesive bedload sediments by unidirectional currents and then seeks a special solution to the PDEs to determine the thickness of the bedload particle–water mixture, which could serve as the “reference height” that is often invoked in numerical computation and simulation of suspended sediment transport in turbulent flows. Moreover, a modified formula is presented to determine the “reference concentration”. Using a “uch” approach the present study derives a 1D formula for predicting bedload transport rate in sheet flows driven by asymmetric waves, with the help of a novel formula for evaluating wave friction factor. The new bedload formula can generically take into account slope angle (positive and negative), wash load concentration in the driving water flow and other factors that affect bedload transport rate. It compares well with measured data in a large-scale wave flume [Dohmen-Janssen, C.M., Hanes, D.M., 2002. Sheet flow dynamics under monochromatic non-breaking waves. Journal of Geophysical Research, 107(C10), 1301–1321], a large-scale oscillatory water tunnel [ Hassan, W.N., Ribberink, J.S., 2005. Transport processes of uniform and mixed sands in oscillatory sheet flow. Coastal Engineering, 52, 745–770] and in a swash zone of natural beach [Masselink, G., Hughes, M.G., 1998. Field investigation of sediment transport in the swash zone. Continental Shelf Research, 18, 1179–1199]. 相似文献
5.
《Marine Geology》2004,203(1-2):109-118
Spatial variations in sediment load in the swash uprush and textural properties of sediment in transport were evaluated to investigate the mechanisms responsible for sediment transport during wave uprush. Four streamer traps were deployed at 2.0-m intervals across the swash zone of a sheltered, microtidal sandy beach at Port Beach, Western Australia, over a 4-day period. During these trapping experiments, offshore significant wave heights were 0.3–0.5 m and wave periods were about 10 s. The average width of the uprush zone was 6.9 m and the average uprush duration was 5.9 s. Cross-shore distributions of sediment load for 70 uprush events reveal a maximum in sediment load landward of the base of the swash (at about 20% of swash width) during single events and a maximum closer to mid-swash (at about 40% of swash width) during multiple events characterized by swash interactions. Settling velocity distributions of trap samples during individual uprush events are similar to distributions found on the beach surface, with the lowest settling velocities (finest sediments) near the base of the swash zone and maximum settling velocities (coarsest sediments) around the mid-swash position. It was found that sediment transport during wave uprush occurs through two distinct mechanisms: (1) sediment entrainment during bore collapse seaward of the base of the swash zone and subsequent advection of this bore-entrained sediment up the beach by wave uprush; and (2) in situ sediment entrainment and transport induced by local shear stresses during wave uprush. Both mechanisms are considered important, but the first mechanism is considered most significant during the early stages of wave uprush when sediment is transported mainly in suspension, while the second mechanism is likely to dominate the mid- to later stages of wave uprush when sediment is transported mainly by sheet flow. The relative importance of the two mechanisms will vary between different beaches with the morphodynamic state of the beach (reflective versus dissipative) expected to play a major role. 相似文献
6.
根据2006年10月在崇明东滩潮间带和潮下带两个站位的大小潮水文泥沙观测资料和悬沙水样的室内粒度分析资料,对悬沙粒径的时空分布特征及其与流速等的关系进行了分析,并对再悬浮特点进行了探讨,结果表明,大小潮期间的悬沙颗粒组成较细,平均粒径的均值仅为6μm;大潮时的悬沙粒径略粗于小潮的,潮间带的略粗于潮下带的;由底床向上悬沙粒径趋于减小。悬沙粒径与流速、悬沙含量无明显的统计学关系,底质粒径、再悬浮强度和再悬浮泥沙粒径的空间变化以及浮泥的悬浮作用等是主要的影响因素。由于底质粒径的空间分布复杂,在东滩水域再悬浮具有明显的空间变化。在底质平均粒径大于60μm的粗颗粒沉积区,大小潮的再悬浮作用微小,底质以推移质运动为主。在底质平均粒径介于5~11μm的细颗粒沉积区上,悬沙级配与底质级配基本相同,该区域是再悬浮的主要发生源地;悬沙级配的变化过程揭示,再悬浮对底层悬沙的贡献率平均为8%~20%,大潮时的再悬浮强度是小潮的5~10倍,由底质再悬浮产生的悬沙在底部水层中的平均含量约为0.03~0.47 kg/m3。 相似文献
7.
《Coastal Engineering》2001,43(1):25-40
Video-based swash motions from three studies (on two separate beaches) were analyzed with respect to theoretical swash trajectories assuming plane beach ballistic motions under quadratic friction. Friction coefficient values for both the uprush and backwash were estimated by comparing measured swash space–time trajectories to these theoretical expectations given an initial velocity and beach slope. Observations were made spanning high tides, and in one case, during a light rain. Analysis of over 4500 individual swash events showed that the uprush friction coefficient was nearly constant during all three studies with a mean value of roughly 0.007 and showed no trends over a tidal cycle. In contrast, backwash friction coefficient values varied over the tidal cycles ranging between 0.01 and 0.07 with minimum values corresponding to the highest tides. Although these values are close to the theoretical estimates based on a Law of the Wall formulation and values commonly referenced in the literature, these observations show a consistent tendency for backwash friction estimates to greatly exceed uprush friction estimates. The disparity between uprush and backwash friction coefficients can be partially attributed to the exclusion of a pressure gradient term in the ballistic model. However, results indicate that backwash friction coefficients adjusted to account for this effect may be three times larger than the uprush friction values during lower tides. This tidal dependence for backwash friction coefficients is attributed to a complex interaction between swash infiltration and entrained sediment loads. These findings imply that friction estimates (necessary for sediment transport calculations and hydrodynamic predictions) based solely on grain roughness may not be correct for backwash flows. 相似文献
8.
本文提出海滩反递变纹层自下而上粒度由小到大,重矿物富集于纹层底部,它是前滨冲流“剪切分选”的产物。原生反递变纹层常被激浪破坏和再造,遇到后期加积海滩过程时,才能保存于海滩层理中。海滩层理的现场观测是研究海滩层理反递变纹层形成机理的重要方法之一。 相似文献
9.
北戴河海滩泥沙捕获实验及其初步结果分析 总被引：2，自引：1，他引：2
介绍了利用泥沙捕获器观测破波带泥沙垂直分布结构的现场实验方法和基本程序，以及利用实验结果计算泥沙通量的方法。研究表明，近岸带泥沙运移通量及其在垂向上的分布受破波带相对位置和海滩地形变化的影响。在破波点附近，波浪的搅动和流场作用强，泥沙运移通量增大，泥沙在波浪的作用下可以大量进入垂直水体以悬移和跃移的方式运移。在本实验中，破波点附近的泥沙在距海底100cm的垂直水体中运移，通量垂向向上逐渐减小。远离破波点，泥沙运移通量和进入垂直水体的高度明显下降。在地形变化复杂的有坝海滩，沙坝顶部的泥沙运移通量最大，泥沙进入垂直水体运移的机率增加，而在沙坝问的沟槽内，波浪和海流作用减弱，泥沙通量和垂向进入水体运移的比例下降。 相似文献
10.
This paper builds on the work of Masselink [Masselink, G., 1993. Simulating the effects of tides on beach morphodynamics. J. Coast. Res. SI 15, 180–197.] on the use of the residence times of shoaling waves, breaking waves and swash/backwash motions across a cross-shore profile to qualitatively understand temporal beach behaviour. We use a data set of in-situ measurements of wave parameters (height and period) and water depth, and time-exposure video images overlooking our single-barred intertidal measurement array at Egmond aan Zee (Netherlands) to derive boundaries between the shoaling zone, the surf zone and the swash zone. We find that the boundaries are functional dependencies of the local relative wave height on the local wave steepness. This contrasts with the use of constant relative wave heights or water levels in earlier work. We use the obtained boundaries and a standard cross-shore wave transformation model coupled to an inner surf zone bore model to show that large (> 5) relative tide ranges (RTR, defined as the ratio tide range–wave height) indicate shoaling wave processes across almost the entire intertidal profile, with surf processes dominating on the beach face. When the RTR is between 2 and 5, surf processes dominate over the intertidal bar and the lower part of the beach face, while swash has the largest residence times on the upper beach face. Such conditions, associated with surf zone bores propagating across the bar around low tide, were observed to cause the intertidal bar to migrate onshore slowly and the upper beach face to steepen. For RTR values less than about 2, surf zone processes dominate across the intertidal bar, while the dominance of swash processes now extends across most of the beach face. The surf zone processes were now observed to lead to offshore bar migration, while the swash eroded the upper beach face. 相似文献
11.
A simple sand trap is used to measure swash and backwash bedload transport rates on intertidal profiles. Data from sixty-eight beach experiments are used to calculate a mean value of 12.78 kg m?4s?2 for the calibration coefficient in the Bagnold beach equation. 相似文献
12.
The foreshore of Pendine Sands forms the seaward part of an extensive, sandy coastal barrier in a shallow Carmarthen Bay, SW Wales. The sedimentological features of the macrotidal foreshore reflect a tide-induced modification of nearshore wave characteristics. As the tide ebbs, the breaker height may decrease, the surf zone widens and becomes increasingly dissipative, and swash/backwash velocities diminish. A concomitant change from plunging to spilling breakers and increasingly symmetrical swash zone flows are associated with a decreasing beach gradient.
A zero net transport model demonstrates that the beach profile is self-stabilising in the short-term, and periodic levelling has shown that the beach is in long-term equilibrium with prevailing conditions, though this does not preclude a significant dynamic response to changing tides and waves.
The flow regimes of wave-generated currents decline as the tide ebbs, and normal beach processes do not usually affect the lower foreshore. Accordingly, there is an overall seaward-fining of the primary framework component of the sands. In more detail, this framework component displays a slight seaward-coarsening across an upper foreshore dominated by high water swash and surf; a rapid seaward-fining across the mid-foreshore in response to the ebb-attenuating swash zone flow velocities; and a slight seaward-fining across the lower foreshore under the action of nearshore shoaling waves. Bedforms vary from a swash/backwash emplaced flat bed across the upper foreshore to the small ripples of nearshore asymmetric oscillatory flows across the lower foreshore.
The surface sediment veneer is not representative of the subsurface sediments which form in response partly to fairweather conditions, partly to storms. The upper foreshore is characterised by swash/backwash emplaced plane bedding in fine sands frequently disrupted by bubble cavities. The mid-foreshore is composed of coarser-grained shelly traction clogs arranged as landward- and seaward-dipping large-scale cross bedding and/or plane bedding; these are probably storm breaker/surf deposits. The lower foreshore, though partially and sometimes totally bioturbated, shows landward-dipping small-scale cross bedding in very fine sands sorted by nearshore shoaling waves.
Tide- and storm-induced modification of the nearshore flow regimes therefore produces a distinctive shore-normal array of sedimentary facies. Each facies is characterised by diagnostic textural and structural signatures. A prograding sequence of such macrotidal deposits would be similar to, but more extensive than, a comparable microtidal sequence. 相似文献
13.
夏季浙江沿岸陆架区泥沙输运机制 总被引：3，自引：0，他引：3
基于2014年夏季浙江沿岸陆架区的水文、泥沙、底质沉积物等实测资料,运用物质通量分析方法和Gao-Collins粒径趋势分析法,探讨了泥沙的输运通量、输运方向、动力机制及净输运趋势。夏季,近岸含沙量规律性较强,由西至东逐渐降低,由南至北逐渐升高,且与潮流有非常好的对应关系,呈现出明显的潮周期变化特征。研究区净悬沙通量自岸向外海迅速变小,悬沙输运中平流输运占主导地位,其次是垂向净环流对悬沙输运的影响,近岸海域表现为向海输沙,30 m以深海域表现为东北向输沙,同时台湾暖流的屏障作用也影响了悬沙向海扩散。粒径趋势分析显示浙江沿岸陆架表层沉积物的长期输运机制为由东北向西南输运,在流系以及海底地形的影响下,中部海域出现粒径趋势较弱的沉积中心。而在夏季,悬浮泥沙主要为平行岸线向东北输运,估算每天进入研究海域的净悬浮泥沙约为1.9×106 t。 相似文献
14.
Direct bed shear stress measurements in bore-driven swash 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
Direct measurements of bed shear in the swash zone are presented. The data were obtained using a shear plate in medium and large-scale laboratory bore-driven swash and cover a wide range of bed roughness. Data were obtained across the full width of the swash zone and are contrasted with data from the inner surf zone. Estimates of the flow velocities through the full swash cycle were obtained through numerical modelling and calibrated against measured velocity data. The measured stresses and calculated flow velocities were subsequently used to back-calculate instantaneous local skin friction coefficients using the quadratic drag law. The data show rapid temporal variation of the bed shear stress through the leading edge of the uprush, which is typically two–four times greater than the backwash shear stresses at corresponding flow velocity. The measurements indicate strong temporal variation in the skin friction coefficient, particularly in the backwash. The general behaviour of the skin friction coefficient with Reynolds number is consistent with classical theory for certain stages of the swash cycle. A spatial variation in skin friction coefficient is also identified, which is greatest across the surf-swash boundary and likely related to variations in local turbulent intensities. Skin friction coefficients during the uprush are approximately twice those in the backwash at corresponding Reynolds number and cross-shore location. It is suggested that this is a result of the no-slip condition at the tip leading to a continually developing leading edge and boundary layer, into which high velocity fluid and momentum are constantly injected from the flow behind and above the tip region. Finally, the measured stress data are used to determine the asymmetry and cross-shore variation in potential sediment transport predicted by three forms of sediment transport formulae. 相似文献
15.
16.
潮滩泥沙的输运过程是河口近岸泥沙输运的重要组成部分,也是诊断潮滩侵蚀-淤积的重要动力指标,特别是在地貌演变过程显著的区域更具指示意义。本研究选择长江口崇明岛东北部潮滩,在2018年3月30日—4月10日进行三脚架多参数观测,获取了高分辨率的流速、含沙量等剖面数据,运用机制分解法分析了连续21个潮周期的泥沙输运过程。结果表明:崇明东北侧潮滩观测站位的含沙量从观测开始至大潮阶段不断增大,在此期间底部含沙量也出现了最大值(7.82 g·L~(-1))。大潮过后直到小潮期间含沙量逐渐减少;观测站位单宽净输沙量有着明显的潮周期差异,从数量上看,大潮期间的单宽净输沙量为1.61×10~4kg·m~(-1),中潮期间为8.28×10~3kg·m~(-1),均远远大于小潮期间的单宽净输沙量,从方向上看,则具有大潮和小潮向口内,中潮向口外的泥沙净输运方向差异;大潮和中潮内的单宽输沙率均大于0.17 kg·m~(-1)·s~(-1),远大于小潮时的单宽输沙率。对各项输沙机制的结果分析来看,"潮泵效应"对输沙量的贡献最大,平流输运次之,而由于水深较浅,垂向环流对输运量影响较小。在观测期间出现了显著的从潮滩向主槽的泥沙输运。总体上看,潮滩泥沙输运过程指示了显著的向口内和主槽的泥沙输运,是北支河口区域泥沙淤积的重要来源。 相似文献
17.
《Coastal Engineering》2006,53(4):335-347
This paper investigates cross-shore profile changes of gravel beaches, with particular regard to discussing the tendency for onshore transport and profile steepening in the swash zone. The discussion includes observed morphological changes on a gravel beach from experimental investigations at the Large Wave Flume (GWK) in Hanover, Germany. During the tests all the profile changes occurred in the swash zone, resulting in erosion below the still water line (SWL) and formation of a berm above the SWL. We investigate the profile evolution evaluating the transport rates from a bed load sediment transport formulation coupled with velocities calculated from a set of Boussinesq equations that have been validated for its use in the surf and swash zones [Lynett, P.J., Wu, T.-R., and Liu, L.-F., P., 2002. Modelling wave runup with depth-integrated equations. Coastal Engineering, 46, 89–107; Otta, A.K., and Pedrozo-Acuña, A., 2004. Swash boundary and cross-shore variation of horizontal velocity on a slope. In: J.M. Smith (Editor), Proceedings 29th International Conference on Coastal Engineering. World Scientific, Lisbon, Portugal, pp. 1616–1628]. We discuss the influence of bottom friction on the predicted profiles, using reported friction factors from experimental studies. It is shown that the use of a different friction factor within a realistic range in each phase of the swash (uprush and backwash) improves prediction of the beach profiles, although quantitative agreement between the measured and computed profile evolutions is not satisfactory. Furthermore, if the friction factor and the transport efficiency (C) of the sediment transport formulation are kept the same in the uprush and backwash, accurate representation of profile evolution is not possible. Indeed, the features of the predicted profiles are reversed. However, when the C parameter is set larger during the uprush than during the backwash, the predicted profiles are closer to the observations. Differences between the predicted profiles from setting non-identical C-values and friction factors for the swash phase, are believed to be linked to both the infiltration effects on the flow above the beachface and the more accelerated flow in the uprush. 相似文献
18.
《Coastal Engineering》2001,42(1):35-52
Measurements were obtained from the swash-zone of a high-energy macrotidal dissipative beach of pore-pressure at four levels below the bed, and cross-shore velocity at a single height above the bed. Time-series from relatively high (Hs≈2.0 m) energy conditions were chosen for analysis from the mid-swash-zone at high tide. Calculation of upwards-directed pore-pressure gradients shows that, in this case, fluidisation of the upper layer of sediment, leading to enhanced backwash transport, is unlikely. An apparent conflict exists in the literature regarding the net effect of infiltration–exfiltration on the sediment transport, through the combined effects of stabilisation–destabilisation and boundary layer modification. This is examined for the data collected using a modified Shields parameter. Inferred instantaneous transport rates integrated over a single swash cycle show a decrease in uprush transport of 10.5% and an increase in backwash transport of 4.5%. Sensitivity tests suggest that there is a critical grain size at which the influence of infiltration–exfiltration changes from offshore to onshore. The exact value of this grain size is highly sensitive to the method used to estimate the friction factor. 相似文献
19.
20.
Can sandy beach molluscs show an endogenously controlled circatidal migrating behaviour? Hints from a swash rig experiment 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
Many macrofaunal species inhabiting exposed sandy beaches are dependent on the swash for their nutrition and migration and are highly adapted to the harsh physical conditions of the swash. The most important physical factors that determine the distribution and behaviour of swash related fauna, next to the swash itself, are sediment grain size and beach slope. Crucial swash parameters are swash period and swash velocity. Studying the influence of these factors on the animals in the field is often very difficult and it is almost impossible to identify which factor causes what effect. Crucial knowledge about the direct role of the swash itself is lacking. Therefore, a device that generates swash waves on an artificial beach under laboratory conditions was designed: the swash rig. In the swash rig, full and independent control on sediment grain size, beach slope, swash velocity and swash period is present. This will allow us to do a variety of experiments on the influence of each of these factors, independently or combined, on swash fauna. In one such experiment, Olivella semistriata – a dominant surfing gastropod on Ecuadorian sandy beaches – was placed in the swash rig during rising and falling tide and subjected – under constant conditions – to an equal wave regime. During falling tide, and in absence of any tidal cue, almost all specimens moved downshore, as they would in the field; hardly any specimens moved upshore. During upcoming tide, however, there was noticeable upward migration in the swash rig, and half of the runs showed a net upward migration. Contrary to the common understanding that the behaviour of sandy beach molluscs is entirely environmentally driven, this experiment hints at the presence of an endogenous circatidal clock, which is used to direct the tidal migration of the species. 相似文献