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1.
Coastal groundwater systems can have a considerable impact on sediment transport and foreshore evolution in the surf and swash zones. Process-based modeling of wave motion on a permeable beach taking into account wave-aquifer interactions was conducted to investigate the effects of the unconfined coastal aquifer on beach profile evolution, and wave shoaling on the water table. The simulation first dealt with wave breaking and wave runup/rundown in the surf and swash zones. Nearshore hydrodynamics and wave propagation in the cross-shore direction were simulated by solving numerically the two-dimensional Navier–Stokes equations with a k–ε turbulence closure model and the Volume-Of-Fluid technique. The hydrodynamic model was coupled to a groundwater flow model based on SEAWAT-2000, the latter describing groundwater flow in the unconfined coastal aquifer. The combined model enables the simulation of wave-induced water table fluctuations and the effects of infiltration/exfiltration on nearshore sediment transport. Numerical results of the coupled ocean/aquifer simulations were found to compare well with experimental measurements. Wave breaking and infiltration/exfiltration increase the hydraulic gradient across the beachface and enhance groundwater circulation inside the porous medium. The large hydraulic head gradient in the surf zone leads to infiltration across the beachface before the breaking point, with exfiltration taking place below the breaking point. In the swash zone, infiltration occurs at the upper part of the beach and exfiltration at the lower part. The simulations confirm that beaches with a low water table tend to be accreted while those with a high water table tend to be eroded. 相似文献
2.
Numerical study on wave-induced filtration flow across the beach face and its effects on swash zone sediment transport 总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2
A numerical model, coupling an analysis of beach groundwater flow with an analysis of swash wave motion over a uniform slope, is presented. Model calculations are performed to investigate the variations of swash-induced filtration flows across the beach face for different input parameters. Swash zone sediment transport under the influence of such filtration flow across the beach face is investigated through modification of effective weight of sediment particle and modification of swash boundary layer thickness. These effects are quantified based on a bed load transport model with a modified Shields parameter. 相似文献
3.
Experiments are carried out in a wave basin in order to study the swash–groundwater interaction. A set of wave gages and pressure sensors are used to monitor the free surface and groundwater dynamics. The study is based on the comparison of two selected cases which differ by the gravity and infragravity forcing conditions, the features of wave breaking in the surf zone, the presence of a standing wave attached to the beach face and the wave setup at the shoreline. Significant differences are observed in the response of the swash–groundwater system. The water table overheight appears to be controlled by the amount of infragravity energy available at the shore. Cyclic beach drainage processes can be observed when the water table is low. Significant time-averaged and time-resolved flows are observed into the sand, depending on the swash hydrodynamics. The presence of a gravity standing wave modulation attached to the shore is shown to affect swash and groundwater dynamics. Most of the pressure gradients observed under the swash zone are related to infiltration flows and are thus related to moderate increase of the sediment relative weight. 相似文献
4.
This paper presents the application of the depth-integrated non-hydrostatic finite element model, CCHE2D-NHWAVE (Wei and Jia, 2014), for simulating several types of coastal wave processes. Specifically, the model is applied to (1) predict the swash zone hydrodynamics involving wave bore propagation, (2) resolve wave propagation, breaking, and overtopping in fringing reef environments, (3) study the vegetation effect on wave height reduction through both submerged and emergent vegetation zones using the drag force term technique, and (4) simulate tsunami wave breaking in the nearshore zone and inundation in the coastal area. Satisfactory agreement between numerical results and benchmark data shows that the non-hydrostatic model is capable of modeling a wide range of coastal wave processes. Furthermore, thanks to its simple numerical formulation, the non-hydrostatic model also demonstrates a better computation efficiency when comparing with other numerical models. 相似文献
5.
Hydrodynamics and sediment transport in the nearshore zone were modeled numerically taking into account turbulent unsteady flow. The flow field was computed using the Reynolds Averaged Navier–Stokes equations with a k–ε turbulence closure model, while the free surface was tracked using the Volume-Of-Fluid technique. This hydrodynamical model was supplemented with a cross-shore sediment transport formula to calculate profile changes and sediment transport in the surf and swash zones. Based on the numerical solutions, flow characteristics and the effects of breaking waves on sediment transport were studied. The main characteristic of breaking waves, i.e. the instantaneous sediment transport rate, was investigated numerically, as was the spatial distribution of time-averaged sediment transport rates for different grain sizes. The analysis included an evaluation of different values of the wave friction factor and an empirical constant characterizing the uprush and backwash. It was found that the uprush induces a larger instantaneous transport rate than the backwash, indicating that the uprush is more important for sediment transport than the backwash. The results of the present model are in reasonable agreement with other numerical and physical models of nearshore hydrodynamics. The model was found to predict well cross-shore sediment transport and thus it provides a tool for predicting beach morphology change. 相似文献
6.
《Coastal Engineering》2005,52(7):633-645
New experimental laboratory data are presented on swash overtopping and sediment overwash on a truncated beach, approximating the conditions at the crest of a beach berm or inter-tidal ridge-runnel. The experiments provide a measure of the uprush sediment transport rate in the swash zone that is unaffected by the difficulties inherent in deploying instrumentation or sediment trapping techniques at laboratory scale. Overtopping flow volumes are compared with an analytical solution for swash flows as well as a simple numerical model, both of which are restricted to individual swash events. The analytical solution underestimates the overtopping volume by an order of magnitude while the model provides good overall agreement with the data and the reason for this difference is discussed. Modelled flow velocities are input to simple sediment transport formulae appropriate to the swash zone in order to predict the overwash sediment transport rates. Calculations performed with traditional expressions for the wave friction factor tend to underestimate the measured transport. Additional sediment transport calculations using standard total load equations are used to derive an optimum constant wave friction factor of fw = 0.024. This is in good agreement with a broad range of published field and laboratory data. However, the influence of long waves and irregular wave run-up on the overtopping and overwash remains to be assessed. The good agreement between modelled and measured sediment transport rates suggests that the model provides accurate predictions of the uprush sediment transport rates in the swash zone, which has application in predicting the growth and height of beach berms. 相似文献
7.
《Marine Geology》2004,203(1-2):109-118
Spatial variations in sediment load in the swash uprush and textural properties of sediment in transport were evaluated to investigate the mechanisms responsible for sediment transport during wave uprush. Four streamer traps were deployed at 2.0-m intervals across the swash zone of a sheltered, microtidal sandy beach at Port Beach, Western Australia, over a 4-day period. During these trapping experiments, offshore significant wave heights were 0.3–0.5 m and wave periods were about 10 s. The average width of the uprush zone was 6.9 m and the average uprush duration was 5.9 s. Cross-shore distributions of sediment load for 70 uprush events reveal a maximum in sediment load landward of the base of the swash (at about 20% of swash width) during single events and a maximum closer to mid-swash (at about 40% of swash width) during multiple events characterized by swash interactions. Settling velocity distributions of trap samples during individual uprush events are similar to distributions found on the beach surface, with the lowest settling velocities (finest sediments) near the base of the swash zone and maximum settling velocities (coarsest sediments) around the mid-swash position. It was found that sediment transport during wave uprush occurs through two distinct mechanisms: (1) sediment entrainment during bore collapse seaward of the base of the swash zone and subsequent advection of this bore-entrained sediment up the beach by wave uprush; and (2) in situ sediment entrainment and transport induced by local shear stresses during wave uprush. Both mechanisms are considered important, but the first mechanism is considered most significant during the early stages of wave uprush when sediment is transported mainly in suspension, while the second mechanism is likely to dominate the mid- to later stages of wave uprush when sediment is transported mainly by sheet flow. The relative importance of the two mechanisms will vary between different beaches with the morphodynamic state of the beach (reflective versus dissipative) expected to play a major role. 相似文献
8.
《Coastal Engineering》2006,53(11):897-913
For the general purposes of morphodynamic computations in coastal zones, simple formula-based models are usually employed to evaluate sediment transport. Sediment transport rates are computed as a function of the bottom shear stress or the near bed flow velocity and it is generally assumed that the sediment particles react immediately to changes in flow conditions. It has been recognized, through recent laboratory experiments in both rippled and plane bed sheet flow conditions that sediment reacts to the flow in a complex manner, involving non-steady processes resulting from memory and settling/entrainment delay effects. These processes may be important in the cross-shore direction, where sediment transport is mainly caused by the oscillatory motions induced by surface short gravity waves.The aim of the present work is to develop a semi-unsteady, practical model, to predict the total (bed load and suspended load) sediment transport rates in wave or combined wave-current flow conditions that are characteristic of the coastal zone. The unsteady effects are reproduced indirectly by taking into account the delayed settling of sediment particles. The net sediment transport rates are computed from the total bottom shear stress and the model takes into account the velocity and acceleration asymmetries of the waves as they propagate towards the shore.A comparison has been carried out between the computed net sediment transport rates with a large data set of experimental results for different flow conditions (wave-current flows, purely oscillatory flow, skewed waves and steady currents) in different regimes (plane bed and rippled bed) with fine, medium and coarse uniform sand. The numerical results obtained are reasonably accurate within a factor of 2. Based on this analysis, the limits and validity of the present formulation are discussed. 相似文献
9.
The influence of the seaward boundary condition on the internal swash hydrodynamics is investigated. New numerical solutions of the characteristics form of the nonlinear shallow-water equations are presented and applied to describe the swash hydrodynamics forced by breaking wave run-up on a plane beach. The solutions depend on the specification of characteristic variables on the seaward boundary of the swash zone, equivalent to prescribing the flow depth or the flow velocity. It is shown that the analytical solution of Shen and Meyer [Shen, M.C., Meyer, R.E., 1963. Climb of a bore on a beach. Part 3. Runup. J. Fluid Mech. 16, 113–125] is a special case of the many possible solutions that can describe the swash flow, but one that does not appear appropriate for practical application for real waves. The physical significance of the boundary conditions is shown by writing the volume and momentum fluxes in terms of the characteristic variables. Results are presented that illustrate the dependence of internal flow depth and velocity on the boundary condition. This implies that the internal swash hydrodynamics depend on the shape and wavelength of the incident bore, which differs from the hydrodynamic similarity inherent in the analytical solution. A solution appropriate for long bores is compared to laboratory data to illustrate the difference from the analytical solution. The results are important in terms of determining overwash flows, flow forces and sediment dynamics in the run-up zone. 相似文献
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A validation concept for cohesive sediment transport model and application on Lianyungang Harbor,China 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
Morphology evolution and hydro-sedimentological interactions in muddy coastal environments are long term processes. These processes are closely related to suspended sediment transport driven by waves and tidal currents. In the traditional calibration/verification methodology for cohesive sediment transport models, time-series data of suspended sediment concentration (SSC) measured during one or several tidal periods are commonly used as major validation references. But the disadvantage of this approach includes that it cannot filter the noises caused by the stochastic nature of short term hydrodynamics induced by waves and the varying properties of bottom sediments; besides a phase-lag phenomenon is often observed between sediment transport and hydrodynamics in the short term. On the contrary, a stable relationship between sedimentation and hydrodynamics is usually found in the long term. For a specific weather, the SSC values often agree well with local wave heights for muddy coasts. Therefore, in this paper a conceptual quantity defined as “representative SSC” was brought forward, and a model validation concept, including calibration and verification approaches, was proposed, in which calibration is performed against yearly-representative SSC values and the long term transport trend, and verification by using representative SSC values corresponding to different wave conditions. A numerical simulation was set up, and a real-life engineering application, Lianyungang Harbor, China, was executed to elaborate the proposed validation concept. Finally, the characteristics of SSC distribution around Lianyungang Harbor were discussed. 相似文献
12.
For the study of the cross-shore wave-induced hydrodynamics in the swash zone, a numerical model is developed based on the one-dimensional non-linear shallow water (NSW) equations for prediction of hydrodynamic parameters in the swash zone. In order to evaluate the accuracy of the outputs of the numerical model, the model's predictions in terms of water surface elevations and cross-shore velocities, are compared to field data from full-scale experiments conducted on three sites with different beach slope; mild and steep, several bed particle sizes and under various incident wave conditions. The quantitative and qualitative comparison of the results of the numerical model and the full-scale data reveals that the model can generally predict many aspects of the flow in the surf and swash zone on both types of beach. The accuracy is adequate for application in a sediment transport study. Considering the time-history and probability distribution of water surface elevation, the model is generally more accurate on steep beaches than on the mild beach. The model can adequately simulate the dominant frequency across the beach and saturation of higher frequencies on both mild and steep beaches for various incident wave energy characteristics. With regard to the horizontal (cross-shore) velocity, the sawtooth shape of time-history and negative acceleration of water are well predicted by the model for both mild and steep beaches. Due to the uncertainties in maximum and minimum values of velocity data, clear judgement about the accuracy of the numerical model in this matter was not possible. However, the comparison of the minimum velocities (offshore direction) revealed that the application of friction factors below the range which is suggested by literature best match the data. 相似文献
13.
Novel laboratory experiments and numerical modelling have been performed to study the advection scales of suspended sediment in the swash zone. An experiment was designed specifically to measure only the sediment picked up seaward of the swash zone and during bore collapse. The advection scales and settling of this sediment were measured during the uprush along a rigid sediment-free beach face by a sediment trap located at varying cross-shore positions. Measurements were made using a number of repeated solitary broken waves or bores. Approximately 25% of the pre-suspended sediment picked up by the bores reaches the mid-swash zone (50% of the horizontal run-up distance), indicating the importance of the sediment advection in the lower swash zone. The pre-suspended sediment is sourced from a region seaward of the shoreline (still water line) which has a width of about 20% of the run-up distance. An Eulerian–Lagrangian numerical model is used to model the advection scales of the suspended sediment. The model resolves the hydrodynamics by solving the non-linear shallow water equations in an Eulerian framework and then solves the advection–diffusion equation for turbulence and suspended sediment in a Lagrangian framework. The model provides good estimates of the measured mass and distribution of sediment advected up the beach face. The results suggest that the correct modelling of turbulence generation prior to and during bore collapse and the advection of the turbulent kinetic energy into the lower swash is important in resolving the contribution of pre-suspended sediment to the net sediment transport in the swash zone. 相似文献
14.
《Coastal Engineering》1999,38(3):143-166
Two different concepts are applicable to model the nearshore morphodynamics. The first one takes into account only final consequences of acting mechanisms and is aimed at the prediction of long-term trends in beach development. Another approach implies the modelling of the whole suite of elementary processes responsible for changes in nearshore bottom topography during a given storm, and it is the approach used in the present work. A coastal area model complex is proposed that allows to reproduce the local morphological changes due to both the natural processes and the influence of coastal structures, such as a groin, a detached breakwater and a navigable channel (underwater trough). Consisting of a traditional series of basic components, the model differs from other ones in essential aspects concerning the treatment of transport mechanisms. In particular, the determination of wave-induced near-bed mean flow is based on the hypothesis that the direction and magnitude of bottom drift depend on difference between the actual rate of energy dissipation and its threshold value marking the flow reversal point. This hypothesis is shown to explain a general trend of cross-shore mean flow distributions observed in the nearshore region. Besides, the influence of the wave breaking process on sediment suspension is taken into account and the contribution of the swash zone to total sediment transport is included. Examples of computed morphological response are represented to demonstrate the model capability. A satisfactory agreement of computations with available data is pointed out. 相似文献
15.
At high bed shear stress sheet flows often occur in coastal waters in which high-concentration bedload sediments are transported in a thin layer near the bed. This paper firstly constructs a theoretical model (partial differential equations, PDEs) for the intense transport of non-cohesive bedload sediments by unidirectional currents and then seeks a special solution to the PDEs to determine the thickness of the bedload particle–water mixture, which could serve as the “reference height” that is often invoked in numerical computation and simulation of suspended sediment transport in turbulent flows. Moreover, a modified formula is presented to determine the “reference concentration”. Using a “uch” approach the present study derives a 1D formula for predicting bedload transport rate in sheet flows driven by asymmetric waves, with the help of a novel formula for evaluating wave friction factor. The new bedload formula can generically take into account slope angle (positive and negative), wash load concentration in the driving water flow and other factors that affect bedload transport rate. It compares well with measured data in a large-scale wave flume [Dohmen-Janssen, C.M., Hanes, D.M., 2002. Sheet flow dynamics under monochromatic non-breaking waves. Journal of Geophysical Research, 107(C10), 1301–1321], a large-scale oscillatory water tunnel [ Hassan, W.N., Ribberink, J.S., 2005. Transport processes of uniform and mixed sands in oscillatory sheet flow. Coastal Engineering, 52, 745–770] and in a swash zone of natural beach [Masselink, G., Hughes, M.G., 1998. Field investigation of sediment transport in the swash zone. Continental Shelf Research, 18, 1179–1199]. 相似文献
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The present work analyzes the hydro-morphodynamics characterizing the swash region during the uprush stage. A comparison is illustrated between the sediment transport measured in a series of dam-break experiments and that predicted by the numerical hydro-morphodynamic model of Postacchini et al. (2012). The primary aim is to investigate the differences arising between the weakly coupled or uncoupled model and the measurements, in terms of hydrodynamics, tip celerity and sediment transport. The hydrodynamics are well described by the model and results have been used to calibrate both friction factor and subgrid turbulent viscosity. Comparison of numerically-computed tip celerity with experimental data reveals a fairly good agreement, i.e. a mean error of about 10%, while modeled sediment transport differs by about 40% from the available data. No evident differences are found between results obtained from the coupled and uncoupled model runs (2% for the celerity and 11% for the sediment transport rate at the tip), suggesting that for the specific flow under investigation, at the leading edge of the swash front, hydro-morphological coupling is not an issue of fundamental importance. However, for the special case here of a swash forced by a dam-break, scour occurs at the dam location, and in this case the erosion of the bed is significantly larger in the uncoupled model. 相似文献
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响应季节性波候作用的泥沙输运特征是研究弧形海滩地貌变化及港工建筑的重要内容。基于南湾弧形海滩实际测量的冬、夏各11条剖面高程变化资料,将其划分为低潮间带、低中潮带、中潮带、高潮间带、低冲流带、中冲流带及其海滩后滨等7带,在此基础上利用经验正交函数(EOF)方法对各个带的体积变化进行分析,结果表明:1)南湾弧形海滩的泥沙以单向输运为主,并具有季节性变化特征,其中冬季泥沙在东南浪作用下,自陆向海输运,夏季泥沙在西南浪作用下自海向陆输运;2)南湾弧形海滩的泥沙分别在高潮带与中潮带、低冲流带与中冲流带之间存在频繁的双向输运;3)南湾弧形海滩不同岸段泥沙的横向输运因岬角的遮蔽能力、地形以及波浪作用的方向而有所差异。 相似文献