共查询到20条相似文献，搜索用时 878 毫秒
1.
Data from a spatial array of wave gauges is analysed using the Wavelet Directional Method (WDM) to directly determine the wavenumber spectrum. The data shows that the asymptotic depth-limited wavenumber spectrum can be represented as a two-parameter form, which is far simpler than the corresponding frequency spectrum. The WDM analysis shows that there are significant nonlinear processes active in the finite depth water, which results in energy being “smeared” across a range of wavenumbers and frequencies around the standard dispersion shell. As a result, the wavenumber spectrum has much less peak enhancement than seen in the frequency spectrum obtained with standard Fourier analysis. In addition, the wavenumber spectrum does not have the clear harmonic previously observed in the finite depth frequency spectrum. This result demonstrates that the harmonic is nonlinearly phase-locked to the spectral peak. 相似文献
2.
海浪双峰方向分布的一种物理解释 总被引：3，自引：0，他引：3
用 １８个波高计组成的直径为 ４０ｃｍ的圆形阵列在大型风浪槽内系统地测量了风浪和涌浪方向谱。用两种分辨力较高的方向谱估计方法最大似然法（ＭＬＭ）和贝叶斯方法（ＢＤＭ）分析的结果表明：风浪高频域出现的依赖于估计方法的双峰方向分布是一种物理假象;在较成长的涌浪低频域,得到跟传播方向对称、两峰间隔大约６０°－９０°非常规则的双峰方向分布,它跟频率和涌浪的成长状态有关,而跟估计方法无关,这种现象可以用非线性波－波相互作用过弱,在不同方向之间不能有效传递能量来解释。 相似文献
3.
This paper describes wave directional spreading in shallow water. Waves were measured for a period of 2 months using the Datawell directional waverider buoy at 15 m water depth on the east coast of India in the Bay of Bengal. The study also showed that in shallow water wave directional spreading was narrowest at peak frequency and widened towards lower and higher frequencies. The wind direction was found to deviate from the wave direction during most of the time. The unidirectional spectrum was found to be satisfactorily represented by Scott spectra. 相似文献
4.
利用风浪实验资料,系统地研究了列率谱随风速,风区的演变规律。与频率谱的计算结果比较表明：在主含能频段,特别在峰频附近,两种谱估计方法所得结果基本吻合。但在高频段,特别在二倍峰频附近,两种谱估计方法所得结果存在明显差异。文中就其存在的差异给出了可能的物理解释。 相似文献
5.
The characteristics of directional spread parameters at intermediate water depth are investigated based on a cosine power ‘2s' directional spreading model. This is based on wave measurements carried out using a Datawell directional waverider buoy in 23 m water depth. An empirical equation for the frequency dependent directional spreading parameter is presented. Directional spreading function estimated based on the Maximum Entropy Method is compared with those obtained using a cosine power ‘2s' parameter model. A set of empirical equations relating the directional spreading parameter corresponding to the peak of wave spectrum to other wave parameters like significant wave height and period are obtained. It shows that the wave directional spreading at peak wave frequency can be related to the non-linearity parameter, which allows estimation of directional spreading without reference to wind information. 相似文献
6.
Ａｐｒｏｐｏｓｅｄｄｉｒｅｃｔｉｏｎａｌｆｕｎｃｔｉｏｎａｎｄｗｉｎｄ－ｗａｖｅｄｉｒｅｃｔｉｏｎａｌｓｐｅｃｔｒｕｍ￥ＷｅｎＳｈｅｎｇｃｈａｎｇ；ＷｕＫｅｊｉａｎ；ＧｕａｎＣｈａｎｇｌｏｎｇ；ＳｕｎＳｈｉｃａｉａｎｄＺｈａｎｇＤａｃｕｏ（Ｒｅｃｅｉ... 相似文献
7.
INTRODUCTIONForavarietyofapplications,includingcoastalandoceanengineering,shiproutingandtheinterpretationofremotelysensedata,informationonthedirectionalwavespectrumisdesirable.Knowledegeoftheintegratedorone-dimensionalspectrumisconsiderable,duelargelytofieldmeasurementssuchasJONSWAP.Asimilarsituation,however,doesnotexistinthecaseofdirectionalsprectra.Thisislargelyduetotheaddedcomplexityandthecostofdirectionalmeasure1.InstituteofPhysicalOceanography,OceanUniversityofQingdao,Qingdao266… 相似文献
8.
Ｆｌｕｃｔｕａｔｉｏｎｓ ｏｆ ｐｅａｋ ｅｎｅｒｇｙ ａｎｄ ｐｅａｋ ｆｒｅｑｕｅｎｃｙ ｏ ｌｏｃａｌ ｗａｖｅｌｅｔ ｅｎｅｒｇｙ ｓｐｅｃｔｒｕｍ ｆｏｒ ｗｉｎｄ ｗａｖｅｓTXＦｌｕｃｔｕａｔｉｏｎｓｏｆｐｅａｋｅｎｅｒｇｙａｎｄｐｅａｋ... 相似文献
9.
Wave dissipation characteristics in SWAN (Simulating Waves Nearshore) model are investigated through numerical experiments. It is found that neither the fully developed integral parameters of wind waves (significant wave height and peak frequency) nor the high frequency spectral tail can be well reproduced by the default wave dissipation source terms. A new spectral dissipation source term is proposed, which comprises saturation based dissipation above two times of peak frequency and improved whitecapping dissipation at lower frequency spectrum. The reciprocal wave age (u /c p ) is involved into the whitecapping model to adjust dissipation rate at different wind speed. The Phillips higher frequency saturation parameter in the saturation-based dissipation is no longer taken as a constant, but varies with wave age. Numerical validations demonstrate that both the wind wave generation process and higher frequency spectrum of wind waves can be well simulated by the new wave dissipation term. 相似文献
10.
针对不规则波浪作用下Wigley型船的运动响应问题进行了系统的研究,采用统计学方法深入探讨了船舶不规则运动幅值和响应周期的分布规律,并通过傅里叶变换对船舶运动响应进行了频谱特征分析。结果表明,船舶横摇方向与升沉和纵摇方向随机运动的响应特征有显著差异。在升沉与纵摇方向,波浪谱峰频率远离自振频率,前十分之一大振幅运动对应周期离散性较小,基本稳定在波浪谱峰周期附近,但小振幅运动周期分布离散性较大,频谱分析指出船舶升沉与纵摇运动响应频谱在波浪谱峰频率附近出现明显峰值。而在横摇方向,波浪谱峰频率与自振频率相耦合,不同振幅的横摇运动响应周期均稳定在自振周期附近,且周期离散性较小,频谱分析也表明横摇运动响应频谱主要集中于船舶运动自振频率附近。 相似文献
11.
12.
13.
Fu Yuhua Senior Engineer Structural Engineering Department China Offshore Oil Development & Engineering Corporation Beijing 《中国海洋工程》1992,(4)
Based on the P-M spectrum and improved theoretical wind wave frequency spectrum, this paper presents the composite type wind wave frequency spectrum, which is given by 2 pieces and satisfies 4 conditions: the spectrum peak passes through a given point; spectral area m0 and significant wave height H have the relationship H = 4.0 ; at the piecewise point, the values of spectrum and slope are contin- 相似文献
14.
Recent extensive and important studies have provided detailed information and compelling evidence on how the presence of waves influences the vertical diffusivity/dispersivity in the coastal environment, which can affect various water quality considerations such as the distribution of suspended sediments in the water column as well as the potential of eutrophication. Comparatively, how the presence of waves influences the horizontal diffusivity/dispersivity has received only scant attention in the literature. Our previous works investigated the role played by the Taylor mechanism due to the wave-induced drift profile which leads to the longitudinal dispersion of contaminants in the horizontal direction, under regular sinusoidal waves and random waves with single-peak spectra.Natural waves in the coastal environment, however, often possess dual-peak spectra, comprising both higher frequency wind waves and lower frequency swells. In this study, the Taylor dispersion of contaminants under random waves with dual-peak spectra is examined through analytical derivation and numerical calculations. The effects of various dual-peak spectral parameters on the horizontal dispersion, including the proportion of lower frequency energy, peak frequency ratio and spectral shape parameter, are investigated. The results show that the relative energy distribution between the dual peaks has the most significant effect. Compared with single-peak spectra with equivalent energy, the Taylor dispersion with dual-peak spectra is stronger when the lower frequency is close to the peak frequency of the single-peak spectrum, and weaker with the higher frequency instead. Thus, it can be concluded that with a dual-peak wave spectrum, wind-dominated seas with higher frequency lead to stronger dispersion in the horizontal direction than swell-dominated seas with lower frequency. 相似文献
15.
The performance of various directional instruments for practical oceanographic and coastal engineering applications is examined. The emphasis is put on the application of conventional current meters equipped with high resolution pressure sensors and three element arrays. Two simulation techniques have been used to produce input data with known frequency spectrum and known directional spreading. The directional spreading is determined by the maximum likelihood method and the resulting spreading is compared with the input spreading. The performance of a conventional current meter equipped with a high resolution pressure sensor depends on the width of the directional spreading of surface waves and on the frequencies under consideration. Even for very narrow directional spreading, the current meter response is acceptable for practical applications and for shallow water deployment. In general, the current meter directional response does not depend on the direction of the incident waves. The spatial array of three wave staffs deployed in shallow water shows a similar performance to that of the current meters when the dimension of the spatial array is of the order of 1 m. This performance also does not depend on the direction of the incident waves. 相似文献
16.
In the present study,the surface elevation of wind waves oberved in laboratory and in the Bohai Sea are adopted for the estimation of the wind wave frequency spectrum by use of the method of the arcsine law(MAL).The traditional method uses the surface elevation to calculate the correlation and then estimate the frequency spectrum while the MAL,presented by Yu and Lan(1979),uses the time sequence of zero-crossing points of surface elevation rather than directly the surface elevation to calculate the correlation.66 sets of wind wave data obtained in laboratory and 420 sets of data observed in the Bohai Sea are adopted for the examination of the method introduced by Yu and Lan.Results show that the MAL can give reliable estimation of wind wave spectra.Correlation and form of spectra estimated by the MAL are similar to those estimated by the traditional method.The peak frequency and the spectral density in peak frequency by the MAL are close to those obtained by the traditional method. 相似文献
17.
风和气压的变化是引起海洋非周期性水位(实测潮位值减去预报潮位值的差值,以下简称水位)变化的主要原因。尽管人们对这种过程之间的关系进行了大量研究,但对这一自然现象的研究至今不衰;这是因为水位变化在渤海这种浅水海区达到很大的值,若恰遇高潮阶段,则往往会使所影响的海域水位暴涨,以至海水内陆溢浸造成灾害。所以人们用各种途径去探讨水位变化与强迫力之间的关系。 引起和影响水位变化的原因中,风应力是 相似文献
18.
The relationship between significant wave height and period, the variability of significant wave period, the spectral peak enhancement factor, and the directional spreading parameter of large deepwater waves around the Korean Peninsula have been investigated using various sources of wave measurement and hindcasting data. For very large waves comparable to design waves, it is recommended to use the average value of the empirical formulas proposed by Shore Protection Manual in 1977 and by Goda in 2003 for the relationship between significant wave height and period. The standard deviation of significant wave periods non-dimensionalized with respect to the mean value for a certain significant wave height varies between 0.04 and 0.21 with a typical value of 0.1 depending upon different regions and different ranges of significant wave heights. The probability density function of the peak enhancement factor is expressed as a lognormal distribution, with its mean value of 2.14, which is somewhat smaller than the value in the North Sea. For relatively large waves, the probability density function of the directional spreading parameter at peak frequency is also expressed as a lognormal distribution. 相似文献
19.
This work examines ERS-1 (the first European Remote Sensing Satellite) SAR (Synthetic Aperture Radar) water surface wave images over Hualien of Taiwan, indicating that the variation of SAR signals in space domain is similar to in situ wave data's in time domain. Some statistical properties of SAR data are investigated. The Rayleigh distribution function closely corresponds with the histogram of wave heights, but the Gaussian one cannot for water surface displacements. Evidence reveals that SAR wave signals do not respond well to actual ocean waves effectively. As wave spectral analysis of available SAR data reveals, the appropriate sample size of SAR wave image, sampling average, and moving average should be taken carefully to accurately confirm directional power spectra. Moreover, SAR spectra are compared with in situ ones, confirming that peak frequencies correlate well and wave directions approximately agree with each other. Some differences between both spectral shapes remain somewhat unclear and require further study. Nevertheless, in this study, ERS-1 SAR power spectra verified the feasibility of deriving an appropriate dominant wave direction and peak frequency. 相似文献
20.
C.Z. Wang 《Ocean Engineering》2005,32(2):107-133
A two-dimensional nonlinear random sloshing problem is analyzed by the fully nonlinear wave velocity potential theory based on the finite element method. A rectangular container filled with liquid subjected to specified horizontal random oscillations is studied. Both wave elevation and hydrodynamic force are obtained. The spectra of random waves and forces have also been investigated, and the effects of the peak frequencies and spectral width of the specified spectrum used for the generation of the random oscillations are discussed. It is found that the energy mainly concentrates at the natural frequencies of the container and is dominant at the ith order natural frequency when the peak frequency is close to the ith order natural frequency. Some results are compared between the fully nonlinear solutions, the linear solutions and the linear plus second-order solutions. 相似文献