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1.
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2.
In this paper, the characteristics of the bottom boundary layer flow induced by nonlinear, asymmetric shoaling waves, propagating over a smooth bed of 1/15 uniform slope, is experimentally investigated. Flow visualization technique with thin-layered fluorescent dye was first used to observe the variation of the flow structure, and a laser Doppler velocimeter was then employed to measure the horizontal velocity, U.The bottom boundary layer flow is found to be laminar except within a small region near the breaking point. The vertical distribution of the phase-averaged velocity U at each phase is non-uniform, which is directly affected by the mean velocity, . The magnitude of increases from zero at the bottom to a local positive maximum at about z/δ2.02.5 (where z is the height above the sloping bottom and δ is the Stokes layer thickness), then decreases gradually to zero at z/δ6.07.0 approximately, and finally becomes negative as z/δ increases further. Moreover, as waves propagate towards shallower water, the rate of increase in the maximum onshore oscillating velocity component is greater than that of the offshore counterpart except near the breaking point. The free stream velocities in the profiles of the maximum onshore and offshore oscillating velocity components, and are found to appear at z/δ≥6.0. This implies that, if the Stokes layer thickness is used as a length scale, the non-dimensionalized boundary layer thickness remains constant in the pre-breaking zone. Although is greater than and the asymmetry of the maximum free stream velocities (i.e. ) increases with decrease of water depth, a universal similar profile can be established by plotting z/δ versus ( ) or ( ). The final non-dimensional profile is symmetric and unique for the distributions of the maximum onshore and offshore oscillating velocity components within the bottom boundary layer, which are induced by nonlinear, asymmetric shoaling waves crossing the pre-breaking zone.  相似文献   

3.
The boundary layer characteristics beneath waves transforming on a natural beach are affected by both waves and wave-induced currents, and their predictability is more difficult and challenging than for those observed over a seabed of uniform depth. In this research, a first-order boundary layer model is developed to investigate the characteristics of bottom boundary layers in a wave–current coexisting environment beneath shoaling and breaking waves. The main difference between the present modeling approach and previous methods is in the mathematical formulation for the mean horizontal pressure gradient term in the governing equations for the cross-shore wave-induced currents. This term is obtained from the wave-averaged momentum equation, and its magnitude depends on the balance between the wave excess momentum flux gradient and the hydrostatic pressure gradient due to spatial variations in the wave field of propagating waves and mean water level fluctuations. A turbulence closure scheme is used with a modified low Reynolds number k-ε model. The model was validated with two published experimental datasets for normally incident shoaling and breaking waves over a sloping seabed. For shoaling waves, model results agree well with data for the instantaneous velocity profiles, oscillatory wave amplitudes, and mean velocity profiles. For breaking waves, a good agreement is obtained between model and data for the vertical distribution of mean shear stress. In particular, the model reproduced the local onshore mean flow near the bottom beneath shoaling waves, and the vertically decreasing pattern of mean shear stress beneath breaking waves. These successful demonstrations for wave–current bottom boundary layers are attributed to a novel formulation of the mean pressure gradient incorporated in the present model. The proposed new formulation plays an important role in modeling the boundary layer characteristics beneath shoaling and breaking waves, and ensuring that the present model is applicable to nearshore sediment transport and morphology evolution.  相似文献   

4.
A high-quality experimental study including a large number of tests which correspond to full-scale coastal boundary layer flows is conducted using an oscillating water tunnel for flow generations and a Particle Image Velocimetry system for velocity measurements. Tests are performed for sinusoidal, Stokes and forward-leaning waves over three fixed bottom roughness configurations, i.e. smooth, “sandpaper” and ceramic-marble bottoms. The experimental results suggest that the logarithmic profile can accurately represent the boundary layer flows in the very near-bottom region, so the log-profile fitting analysis can give highly accurate determinations of the theoretical bottom location and the bottom roughness. The first-harmonic velocities of both sinusoidal and nonlinear waves, as well as the second-harmonic velocities of nonlinear waves, exhibit similar patterns of vertical variation. Two dimensionless characteristic boundary layer thicknesses, the elevation of 1% velocity deficit and the elevation of maximum amplitude, are found to have power-law dependencies on the relative roughness for rough bottom tests. A weak boundary layer streaming embedded in nonlinear waves and a small but meaningful third-harmonic velocity embedded in sinusoidal waves are observed. They can be only explained by the effect of a time-varying turbulent eddy viscosity. The measured period-averaged vertical velocities suggest the presence of Prandtl's secondary flows of the second kind in the test channel. Among the three methods to infer bottom shear stress from velocity measurements, the Reynolds stress method underestimates shear stress due to missed turbulent eddies, and the momentum integral method also significantly underestimates bottom shear stress for rough bottom tests due to secondary flows, so only the log-profile fitting method is considered to yield the correct estimate. The obtained bottom shear stresses are analyzed to give the maximum and the first three harmonics, and the results are used to validate some existing theoretical models.  相似文献   

5.
The bed roughness ks and current velocity profiles in the presence of waves with an arbitrary angle θ to currents are studied. It is found that the movable bed roughness is affected by both the wave and the current and only slightly by the angle θ between the wave propagation and the current, and that existing formulae derived in purely oscillatory flows generally fail to predict ks. In the present study, a new formula which takes account the effect of the wave and the current on the bed roughness is suggested to calculate ks in combined wave-current flows. With the present formula, the current profiles calculated by the model of You agree satisfactorily with the laboratory data of van Kampen and Nap and Havinga, and the field measurements of Grant and Williams and Drake et al.  相似文献   

6.
High spatial resolution measurements of current velocity performed by the shipboard mounted Acoustic Doppler Current Profiler (ADCP) in the lateral boundary layer of the southern Gulf of Finland during two 5-day periods are described and analysed with a focus on the dominant dynamics. The measurement site represents a small (15×20 km), relatively deep (up to 100 m) bay opened to large-scale estuarine circulation. The measurement period was characterized by calm winds and a strong seasonal pycnocline (Brunt-Väisälä frequencyN=6–9*10−2 s−1). The quasi-steady velocity field revealed polarization of currents along the shore whereas an intensive baroclinic coastal jet was observed over a cross-shore scale of 1–2 km. The level of vertical separation of the alongshore flow coincided with the pycnocline at the coast, but was shifted below it in the offshore region. The cross-shore flow was considerably weaker and showed a three-layer structure with an opposite phase between the first and second surveys. It is suggested that the observed jet resembles a non-locally forced eastward propagating coastally trapped wave. In the offshore area the alongshore flow field satisfies local geostrophic balance quite well, except in the pycnocline where strong vertical stratification exerts considerable vertical stress. As vertical velocity shear is well correlated with vertical stratification, the horizontal advection prevails over vertical mixing. Horizontal inhomogeneities of density distribution are partly explained by vertical velocities with an estimated magnitude of less than 0·6 mm/s and the spatial pattern following bottom topography.  相似文献   

7.
The eddy viscosities for the steady and the periodic components of combined wave-current flows have been studied quantitatively from the presently available experimental data. It has been found that inside the boundary interaction layer [z < δ] the eddy viscosity εc for the steady flow is increased in the presence of waves while outside the boundary interaction layer [z >δ] it is affected little by the wave motion, and that the eddy viscosity εw for the wave motion in the boundary layer is independent of the current strength U*. On the other hand, a new eddy viscosity model is presented to give a good prediction of the velocity distributions of the waves and currents in comparison with experimental data.  相似文献   

8.
本文利用高频地波雷达获得的江苏如东海域大范围长期海流观测资料对苏北辐射沙洲南部烂沙洋海域夏季表层海流特征进行了分析。分析结果表明:研究海域表层海流靠近近岸一侧为往复流，流向总体上呈西北-东南向，靠近外海一侧为旋转流；海域潮流动力较为强劲，夏季表层海流实测最大流速达1.47 m/s，涨潮平均流速介于0.44~0.55 m/s，落潮平均流速介于0.38~0.52 m/s，海域西北部区域涨落潮平均流速明显大于其他区域；表层潮流为正规半日潮流，M2分潮为最主要分潮，其潮流椭圆长轴范围为0.57~0.71 m/s，远大于其他分潮，其次为S2分潮；该海域夏季表层余流呈现近岸大离岸小的分布趋势，余流流向基本指向近岸方向，从离岸到近岸余流流向呈现逆时针偏转。  相似文献   

9.
This paper presents an investigation of the roughness effects in the turbulent boundary layer for asymmetric waves by using the baseline (BSL) k–ω model. This model is validated by a set of the experimental data with different wave non-linearity index, Ni (namely, Ni = 0.67, Ni = 0.60 and Ni = 0.58). It is further used to simulate asymmetric wave velocity flows with several values of the roughness parameter (am/ks) which increase gradually, namely from am/ks = 35 to am/ks = 963. The effect of the roughness tends to increase the turbulent kinetic energy and to decrease the mean velocity distribution in the inner boundary layer, whereas in the outer boundary layer, the roughness alters the turbulent kinetic energy and the mean velocity distribution is relatively unaffected. A new simple calculation method of bottom shear stress based on incorporating velocity and acceleration terms is proposed and applied into the calculation of the rate of bed-load transport induced by asymmetric waves. And further, the effect of bed roughness on the bottom shear stress and bed-load sediment transport under asymmetric waves is examined with the turbulent model, the newly proposed method, and the existing calculation method. It is found that the higher roughness elements increase the magnitude of bottom shear stress along a wave cycle and consequently, the potential net sediment transport rate. Moreover, the wave non-linearity also shows a big impact on the bottom shear stress and the net sediment transport.  相似文献   

10.
Western boundary currents flow poleward from low latitudes until they ultimately separate from the coast and turn eastward into the ocean interior. The separation is mainly due to either: (i) the variation of the Coriolis parameter with latitude (β) which causes vanishing of the near-wall depth; (ii) vanishing wind stress curl over the ocean interior which forces zero meridional transport; or (iii) opposing currents that flow toward the equator and force the northward flowing currents to turn offshore (Agra and Nof, Deep Sea Research I, 40, 2259–2282). Here, we focus on the third kind of separated currents and show that, due to β, such separated currents migrate along the wall. A nonlinear “reduced gravity” one-and-a-half layer model is used to compute the desired migration speed. Solutions of the primitive equations are constructed analytically assuming that the translation rate is steady. It is found that the migration rate along the wall is given by βRd2 cosα/2 sinγ, where Rd is the Rossby radius, α an angle that measures the inclination of the joint offshore currents relative to the north, and γ is the angle between the axis of the joint offshore currents and the wall. The migration meridional component can be either northward or southward (depending on the inclination of the wall) but the zonal component is always westward. When the separated joint offshore flow is in the east-west direction (i.e. α = π/2 or 3π/2 so that the separated flow is zonal) no migration is taking place. It turns out that the above migration formula is so robust that it is also describes the migration rate in a two-and-a-half layer model where one current is allowed to, at least partially, dive under the other. For most separated currents the computed migration rate is a few centimeters per second.Possible application of this theory to the Confluence zone in the South Atlantic (where significant seasonal movement of the separation latitude has been observed) is discussed.  相似文献   

11.
The minimum value of wind stress under which the flow velocity in short wind waves exceeds the phase speed is estimated by calculating the laminar boundary layer flow induced by the surface tangential stress with a dominant peak at the wave crest as observed in previous experiments. The minimum value of the wind stress is found to depend strongly on, the ratio of the flow velocity just below the boundary layer and the phase speed, but weakly onL, the wavelength. For wind waves previously studied (=0.5,L=10 cm), the excess flow appears when the air friction velocityu * is larger than about 30 cm sec–1. The present results confirm that the excess flow found in my previous experiments is associated with the local growth of a laminar boundary layer flow near the wave crest.  相似文献   

12.
Field measurements of cross-shore currents 0.25 m from the bed were made on two natural beaches under a range of incident wave conditions. The results indicated the presence of a relatively strong, offshore-directed mean current, both within and seaward of the surf zone. Typical velocities within the surf zone were of the order of 0.2–0.3 m/s. This bed return flow, or “undertow”, represents a mass conservation response, returning water seaward that was initially transported onshore in the upper water column, primarily above the trough of the incident waves. The measurements demonstrated that the bed return flow velocity increases with the incident wave height. In addition, the crossshore distribution of the bed return flow is characterised by a mid-surf zone maximum, which exhibits a strong decrease in velocity towards the shoreline and a more gradual decay in the offshore direction. Several bed return flow models based on mass continuity were formulated to predict the cross-shore distribution of the bed return flow under an irregular wave field and were compared with the field data. Best agreement was obtained using shallow water linear wave theory, after including the mass transport associated with unbroken waves. The contribution of the unbroken waves enables net offshore-directed bottom currents to persist outside the region of breaking waves, providing a mechanism, other than rip currents, to transport sediment offshore beyond the surf zone.  相似文献   

13.
A simple numerical model, based on the Reynolds stress equations and k–ε turbulence closure scheme, is developed for the coastal wave and current bottom boundary layer. The current friction velocity is introduced to account for the effect of currents on waves. The implicit Crank–Nicolson finite difference method discretizes the governing equations. Vertical changing step grids with the constant ratio for two adjacent spatial steps are used together with the equal time steps in the modeling. Vertical profiles of mean current velocity and wave velocity amplitude are obtained. These modeled results are compared with the laboratory experimental data of Van Doorn [1981. Experimental investigation of near bottom velocities in water waves with and without a current. Report M1423, Delft Hydraulics Laboratory, Delft, The Netherlands; 1982. Experimenteel onderzoek naar het snelheidsveld in de turbulente bodemgrenslaag in een oscillerende stroming in een golftunnel. Report M1562, Delft Hydraulics Laboratory, Delft, The Netherlands]. It has been shown that modeled and observed (Van Doorn, T., 1981. Experimental investigation of near bottom velocities in water waves with and without a current. Report M1423, Delft Hydraulics Laboratory, Delft, The Netherlands; 1982. Experimenteel onderzoek naar het snelheidsveld in de turbulente bodemgrenslaag in een oscillerende stroming in een golftunnel. Report M1562, Delft Hydraulics Laboratory, Delft, The Netherlands) mean velocity profiles within the wave and current bottom boundary layer are in better agreement than outside. Modeled and observed (Van Doorn, T., 1981. Experimental investigation of near bottom velocities in water waves with and without a current. Report M1423, Delft Hydraulics Laboratory, Delft, The Netherlands) wave velocity amplitude profiles within the wave and current bottom boundary layer are in better agreement than outside. Modeled wave velocity amplitudes are in good agreement with the laboratory experimental data of Van Doorn [1982. Experimenteel onderzoek naar het snelheidsveld in de turbulente bodemgrenslaag in een oscillerende stroming in een golftunnel. Report M1562, Delft Hydraulics Laboratory, Delft, The Netherlands].  相似文献   

14.
Relation between internal waves with short time scale and density distribution near the shelf break in the East China Sea is studied utilizing moored current meters, thermometers and conductivity-temperature-depth (CTD) casts. A well developed pycnocline was frequently observed around 150–200 m depth near the shelf break accompanied with the development of internal waves with short time scale. During the cruise in May 1998, the intensified internal wave motion with short time scale and the distinct offshore flow were observed just below the lower pycnocline, which shoaled and extended above the shelf area. It is suggested that vertical mixing generated by amplified internal waves would produce cross-shelf ageostophic density current around the pycnocline. During the cruise in May 1999, on the other hand, the lower pycnocline was located offshore below the shelf break, and the internal wave motion was amplified just above the lower pycnocline. In this case, the offshore flow should be generated above the lower pycnocline, but vertical profiles of current velocity were not obtained because acoustic Doppler current profiler (ADCP) data were not available around the lower pycnocline.  相似文献   

15.
Velocity measurements have been performed in an oscillatory turbulent boundary layer over a rough wall, using a large oscillating water tunnel. These together with measurements by Kalkanis (1964) over an oscillating wall indicate the existence of universal wall and defect laws for velocity. A logarithmic overlap layer is predicted and observed as in a steady turbulent boundary layer, and this results in a new relationship between friction factor and relative boundary layer thickness. The phase lead of the defect velocity relative to the wall ditto seems to follow a universal law over the whole defect layer. A method is suggested for the calculation of the phase lead of wall shear stress over velocity in the free stream for large amplitude to roughness ratios. Apart from the inner layer, it is in principle possible to construct the velocity profiles in a turbulent oscillatory boundary layer at a rough wall, using the findings of this report. A review of experimental and theoretical investigations of the stability of the oscillatory boundary layer is also given.  相似文献   

16.
A numerical experiment is made using a barotropic model for the western boundary currents. The time-dependent, non-linear vorticity equation is integrated with and without the variable of bottom topography. The inertial and frictional boundary flow is resolved with a fine grid size of 10 km. Connection of the western boundary currents with the general circulation is facilitated by giving the fixed Sverdrup transport at the eastern boundary of the model (400 km offshore).For the flat bottom topography, steady flow forRe=35 shows dynamical balance essentially of a frictional model. The transient response leading to the formation of the western boundary currents in the model seems to support theLighthill's theory (1969). ForRe=350, unsteady features revealed byBryan (1963) is re-established. A phenomenon of barotropic instability is also observed with sufficient resolution. For the model with a continental slope the steady flow is also obtained forRe=35. The boundary currents flow over the continental slope, deviating offshore as they flow northward.  相似文献   

17.
This paper presents a wave-resolving sediment transport model, which is capable of simulating sediment suspension in the field-scale surf zone. The surf zone hydrodynamics is modeled by the non-hydrostatic model NHWAVE (Ma et al., 2012). The turbulent flow and suspended sediment are simulated in a coupled manner. Three effects of suspended sediment on turbulent flow field are considered: (1) baroclinic forcing effect; (2) turbulence damping effect and (3) bottom boundary layer effect. Through the validation with the laboratory measurements of suspended sediment under nonbreaking skewed waves and surfzone breaking waves, we demonstrate that the model can reasonably predict wave-averaged sediment profiles. The model is then utilized to simulate a rip current field experiment (RCEX) and nearshore suspended sediment transport. The offshore sediment transport by rip currents is captured by the model. The effects of suspended sediment on self-suspension are also investigated. The turbulence damping and bottom boundary layer effects are significant on sediment suspension. The suspended sediment creates a stably stratified water column, damping fluid turbulence and reducing turbulent diffusivity. The suspension of sediment also produces a stably stratified bottom boundary layer. Thus, the drag coefficient and bottom shear stress are reduced, causing less sediment pickup from the bottom. The cross-shore suspended sediment flux is analyzed as well. The mean Eulerian suspended sediment flux is shoreward outside the surf zone, while it is seaward in the surf zone.  相似文献   

18.
A “slip law” connects the excess velocity or “slip” of a wind-blown water surface, relative to the motion in the middle of the mixed layer, to the wind stress, the wind-wave field, and buoyancy flux. An inner layer-outer layer model of the turbulent shear flow in the mixed layer is appropriate, as for a turbulent boundary layer or Ekman layer over a solid surface, allowing, however, for turbulent kinetic energy transfer from the air-side via breaking waves, and for Stokes drift. Asymptotic matching of the velocity distributions in inner and outer portions of the mixed layer yields a slip law of logarithmic form, akin to the drag law of a turbulent boundary layer. The dominant independent variable is the ratio of water-side roughness length to mixed layer depth or turbulent Ekman depth. Convection due to surface cooling is also an important influence, reducing surface slip. Water-side roughness length is a wind-wave property, varying with wind speed similarly to air-side roughness. Slip velocity is typically 20 times water-side friction velocity or 3% of wind speed, varying within a range of about 2 to 4.5%. A linearized model of turbulent kinetic energy distribution shows much higher values near the surface than in a wall layer. Nondimensional dissipation peaks at a value of about eight, a short distance below the surface.  相似文献   

19.
The paper analyzes the effect which prescribed errors in the cross-shore boundary conditions for a computational domain along a beach have on the flow field predicted inside the domain. This problem is relevant because errors in boundary conditions are unavoidable when modeling limited domains of a nearshore region. For simplicity, we consider a longshore uniform plane beach with monochromatic, obliquely incident waves, and assume depth uniform currents. It is then studied analytically and numerically how small perturbations of the boundary conditions along both upstream and downstream cross-shore boundaries spread inside the computational domain. It is found that the errors at the upstream cross-shore boundary tend to spread over a long distance downstream of the boundary, while the influence of the errors in the downstream boundary condition is limited to the adjacent upstream area of the computational domain. Both the numerical and analytical solutions show that the errors introduced at the upstream boundary decay exponentially in the surf zone at a rate proportional to the bottom friction. A simple formula is developed to estimate the influence distance of the upstream errors. If we consider the mismatch in the volume flux at the upstream boundary, the error merely redistributes in the cross-shore direction to conserve volume. In the case of excessive flux or velocity specified at the cross-shore boundaries, a circulation cell tends to appear in the offshore region where the errors caused by the boundary mismatch increase with the cross-shore width of the model domain.  相似文献   

20.
李诚  张弛  隋倜倜 《海洋学报》2016,38(5):141-149
建立了同时考虑波致雷诺应力和时均水平压强梯度影响的二阶波浪边界层数学模型,模型计算得到的浅化波浪层流边界层内瞬时流速剖面、振荡速度幅值和时均流速剖面均与水槽实验数据吻合较好,在此基础上探讨了浅化波浪边界层流速分布特性及其影响机制。随着波浪的浅化变形,边界层内时均流速剖面"底部向岸、上部离岸"的变化特征越来越明显。这是二阶对流项引起的波致雷诺应力和离岸回流引起的时均水平压强梯度共同作用的结果,在床面附近由波致雷诺应力占主导作用并趋于引起向岸流动,在上部区域由时均水平压强梯度占主导作用并趋于引起离岸流动。  相似文献   

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