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1.
《Coastal Engineering》1999,36(1):17-36
A time domain method is presented for analyzing simultaneous measurements of pressure and the horizontal components of velocity obtained beneath irregular multidirectional wave fields. This new method differs from the usual linear directional analyses applied to PUV data in two important aspects. First, the essential nonlinearity of the measured waves is not sacrificed to achieve a solution. Therefore, predictions of sea surface elevation and directional kinematics throughout the water column accurately portray the actual nonlinear character of the waves. Second, the analysis method is `local' in that it can be applied to segments of PUV time series much shorter than an individual wave. The viability of the locally nonlinear methodology developed in this paper is proven by demonstrating agreement with higher-order theoretical steady waves. Predictions of sea surface elevation and wave kinematics are also made using actual measurements from PUV instruments at two ocean sites off the west coast of the United States. 相似文献
2.
The substructures of offshore wind turbines are subjected to extreme breaking irregular wave forces. The present study is focused on investigating breaking irregular wave forces on a monopile using a computational fluid dynamics (CFD) based numerical model. The breaking irregular wave forces on a monopile mounted on a slope are investigated with a numerical wave tank. The experimental and numerical irregular free surface elevations are compared in the frequency-domain for the different locations in the vicinity of the cylinder. A numerical analysis is performed for different wave steepness cases to understand the influence of wave steepness on the breaking irregular wave loads. The wave height transformation and energy level evolution during the wave shoaling and wave breaking processes is investigated. The higher-frequency components generated during the wave breaking process are observed to play a significant role in initiating the secondary force peaks. The free surface elevation skewness and spectral bandwidth during the wave transformation process are analysed and an investigation is performed to establish a correlation of these parameters with the breaking irregular wave forces. The role of the horizontal wave-induced water particle velocity at the free surface and free surface pressure in determining the breaking wave loads is highlighted. The higher-frequency components in the velocity and pressure spectrum are observed to be significant in influencing the secondary peaks in the breaking wave force spectrum. 相似文献
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4.
The paper describes measurements of water particle velocities in laboratory-scale irregular, non-periodic surface waves. The measurements were taken over a range of elevations using Laser Doppler anemometry and included observations of particle kinematics at two points separated in plan. The observed statistical and spectral properties were compared with those predicted by both traditional and intermittent linear random wave theory. For elevations which are always submerged, the measured properties were in good agreement with both theoretical approaches. This was not the case for points near mean water level, where the observed properties were approximated more closely by the intermittent approach. However, some departure between observations and the intermittent approach was evident for elevations above mean water level. 相似文献
5.
George Z. Forristall 《Applied Ocean Research》1985,7(4):202-212
Calculation of the kinematics of random waves above the mean water line presents great difficulties. The kinematic boundary condition fit (KBCF) method approximates the solution through the numerical calculation of a potential function which fits the kinematic boundary condition on a specified surface. Comparisons with a high order regular wave show that the method converges to the true solution when the surface is accurately specified. Tests of the method for irregular waves were made with measurements from a laser-Doppler current meter in the Delft wave tank. These tests showed good agreement between theory and measurement when the surface evolution was calculated correct to second order. Stretched linear theory was also compared to the measurements. The stretched velocities were reasonably good when the phases of the component wavelets were measured but somewhat low when the phases were selected from a uniform distribution. 相似文献
6.
《Coastal Engineering》1999,38(2):91-113
The present study aims at investigating the non-linear triad interaction process affecting shoaling surface gravity wave fields. The triad interaction phenomenon being enhanced towards the shore, the domain of study is extended up to the surf zone. Three 1D non-linear wave models (one phase-resolving and two phase-averaged spectral models) have been implemented and compared to laboratory experiments performed in a wave flume. This set of models includes two existing models and a new one which has been developed in the frame of this work. The models include a breaking dissipation term based on the parametrical model of Battjes and Janssen [Battjes, J.A., Janssen, P.A.E.M., 1978. Energy loss and set-up due to breaking of random waves. Proc. 16th Int. Conf. Coastal Eng. (ASCE), Vol. 1, pp. 569–587.]. The investigations concern the evolution of variance spectra, spectral significant wave height and mean period over a barred bathymetric profile. In addition, the performances of the different models are analysed by computing the spectral source term for triad interactions. We found that all models are able to reproduce the main features of non-linear mechanisms affecting a wave field in the near-shore zone. The phase-resolving model gives the most accurate results for non-breaking situations. It correctly reproduces the non-linear coupling effect in decreasing water depths due to wave–wave interactions, as well as the harmonic release after a bar. However, the model is computationally time-consuming. The CPU time is considerably reduced using phase-averaged models. They give satisfactorily results on harmonic generation. However, they do not reproduce the release of harmonics as water depth increases. In breaking conditions, the variance spectra undergo significant changes under the combined effects of non-linear energy transfers and dissipation. The depth-induced wave breaking model included in the equations provides a good estimate of the energy decay in the surf zone. 相似文献
7.
《Coastal Engineering》1999,36(1):1-16
A weakly-nonlinear and dispersive wave equation recently developed by the authors is used for formulating a spectral-type unidirectional wave propagation model describing spectral transformations of narrow-band waves travelling over arbitrary depths. The essential characteristics of the model equation are recapitulated first and then the spectral domain representation in terms of spatially varying harmonic amplitudes is presented. The resulting evolution equations are used to simulate the experiments concerning harmonic generation in shallow water and nonlinear random wave transformations over a submerged bar. Furthermore, the spectral model predictions are compared with the field measurements in nearshore with satisfactory results. 相似文献
8.
In actual sea states, damage to offshore floating structures is usually caused by a few extreme waves or wave groups in an irregular wave train. Accurate simulation of the irregular wave trains can lay a solid foundation for understanding the local flow field and impact loads that would potentially cause such damage. This paper describes how the generation of a single extreme wave was investigated. Determination of the wave-maker motion for generating specified irregular wave trains is the key to this work. First, an experimental irregular wave train was decomposed into a certain number of small-amplitude waves. Fourier series expansion was performed to determine the amplitude and the initial phase angle of each wave component. Then a hydrodynamic transfer function was used to calculate the amplitude of the wave-maker motion associated with each wave component. Superposition was made on all the wave components to get the final wave-maker motion. During the numerical simulation, calculated horizontal velocity profiles of the extreme wave at different moments were analyzed and compared with experimental results, and a satisfactory agreement was obtained. In the simulation, VOF method was employed to capture the free surface, and a dissipation zone was used to deal with wave reflection. 相似文献
9.
Wave elevations and water particle velocities were measured in a laboratory surf zone created by the breaking of a narrow-band irregular wave train on a 1/35 plane slope. The incident waves form wave groups that are strongly modulated. It is found that the waves that break close to the shoreline generally have larger wave-height-to-water-depth ratios before breaking than the waves that break farther offshore. After breaking, the wave-height-to-water-depth ratio for the individual waves approaches a constant value in the inner surf zone, while the standard deviation of the wave period increases as the still water depth decreases. In the outer surf zone, the distribution of the period-averaged turbulent kinetic energy is closely correlated to the initial wave heights, and has a wider variation for narrow-band waves than for broad-band waves. In the inner surf zone, the distribution of the period-averaged turbulent kinetic energy is similar for narrow-band waves and broad-band waves. It is found that the wave elevation and turbulent kinetic energy time histories for the individual waves in a wave group are qualitatively similar to those found in a spilling regular wave. The time-averaged transport of turbulent kinetic energy by the ensemble-averaged velocity and turbulence velocity under the irregular breaking waves are also consistent with the measurements obtained in regular breaking waves. The experimental results indicate that the shape of the incident wave spectrum has a significant effect on the temporal and spatial variability of wave breaking and the distribution of turbulent kinetic energy in the outer surf zone. In the inner surf zone, however, the distribution of turbulent kinetic energy is relatively insensitive to the shape of the incident wave spectrum, and the important parameters are the significant wave height and period of the incident waves, and the beach slope. 相似文献
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11.
The performance of the new wave diffraction feature of the shallow-water spectral model SWAN, particularly its ability to predict the multidirectional wave transformation around shore-parallel emerged breakwaters is examined using laboratory and field data. Comparison between model predictions and field measurements of directional spectra was used to identify the importance of various wave transformation processes in the evolution of the directional wave field. First, the model was evaluated against laboratory measurements of diffracted multidirectional waves around a breakwater shoulder. Excellent agreement between the model predictions and measurements was found for broad frequency and directional spectra. The performance of the model worsened with decreasing frequency and directional spread. Next, the performance of the model with regard to diffraction–refraction was assessed for directional wave spectra around detached breakwaters. Seven different field cases were considered: three wind–sea spectra with broad frequency and directional distributions, each coming from a different direction; two swell–sea bimodal spectra; and two swell spectra with narrow frequency and directional distributions. The new diffraction functionality in SWAN improved the prediction of wave heights around shore-parallel breakwaters. Processes such as beach reflection and wave transmission through breakwaters seem to have a significant role on transformation of swell waves behind the breakwaters. Bottom friction and wave–current interactions were less important, while the difference in frequency and directional distribution might be associated with seiching. 相似文献
12.
The characteristics of wave and turbulence velocities created by a broad-banded irregular wave train breaking on a 1:35 slope were studied in a laboratory wave flume. Water particle velocities were measured simultaneously with wave elevations at three cross-shore locations inside the surf zone. The measured data were separated into low-frequency and high-frequency time series using a Fourier filter. The measured velocities were further separated into organized wave-induced velocities and turbulent velocity fluctuations by ensemble averaging. The broad-banded irregular waves created a wide surf zone that was dominated by spilling type breakers. A wave-by-wave analysis was carried out to obtain the probability distributions of individual wave heights, wave periods, peak wave velocities, and wave-averaged turbulent kinetic energies and Reynolds stresses. The results showed that there was a consistent increase in the kurtosis of the vertical velocity distribution from the surface to the bottom. The abnormally large downward velocities were produced by plunging breakers that occurred from time to time. It was found that the mean of the highest one-third wave-averaged turbulent kinetic energy values in the irregular waves was about the same as the time-averaged turbulent kinetic energy in a regular wave with similar deep-water wave height to wavelength ratio. It was also found that the correlation coefficient of the Reynolds stress varied strongly with turbulence intensity. Good correlation between u′ and w′ was obtained when the turbulence intensity was high; the correlation coefficient was about 0.3–0.5. The Reynolds stress correlation coefficient decreased over a wave cycle, and with distance from the water surface. Under the irregular breaking waves, turbulent kinetic energy was transported downward and landward by turbulent velocity fluctuations and wave velocities, and upward and seaward by the undertow. The undertow in the irregular waves was similar in vertical structure but lower in magnitude than in regular waves, and the horizontal velocity profiles under the low-frequency waves were approximately uniform. 相似文献
13.
Existing models of the wave bottom boundary layer have focused on the vertical and temporal dynamics associated with monochromatic forcing. While these models have made significant advances, they do not address the more complicated dynamics of random wave forcing, commonly found in natural environments such as the surf zone. In the closed form solution presented here, the eddy viscosity is assumed to vary temporally with the bed shear velocity and linearly with depth, however, the solution technique is valid for any eddy viscosity which is separable in time and space. A transformation of the cross-shore velocity to a distorted spatial domain leads to time-independent boundary conditions, allowing for the derivation of an analytic expression for the temporal and vertical structure of the cross-shore velocity under an arbitrary wave field. The model is compared with two independent laboratory observations. Model calculations of the bed shear velocity are in good agreement with laboratory measurements made by Jonsson and Carlsen (1976, J. Hydraul. Res., 14, 45–60). A variety of monochromatic, skewed, and asymmetric wave forcing conditions, characteristic of those found in the surf zone, are used to evaluate the relative effects on the bed shear. Because the temporal variation of the eddy viscosity is assumed proportional to the bottom shear, a weakly nonlinear interaction is created, and a fraction of the input monochromatic wave energy is transferred to the odd harmonics. For a monochromatic input wave, the ratio of the third harmonic of velocity at the bed to the first is <10%. However, for a skewed and asymmetric input wave, this ratio can be as large as 30% and is shown to increase with increasing root-mean-square input wave acceleration. The work done by the fluid on the bed is shown to be a maximum under purely skewed waves and is directed onshore. Under purely asymmetric waves, the work done is significantly smaller and directed offshore. 相似文献
14.
D.Z. Ning J. Zang S.X. Liu R. Eatock Taylor B. Teng P.H. Taylor 《Ocean Engineering》2009,36(15-16):1226-1243
This paper concerns the propagation of transient wave groups, focused at a point in time and space to produce locally large waves having a range of steepness. The experimental study was carried out in a wave flume at Dalian University of Technology. The numerical simulations were based on a nonlinear boundary integral equation solved by a higher-order boundary element method (HOBEM). Rather than simulate the whole experimental tank, local surface elevation measurements were used to drive the numerical solution from a point less than two wavelengths upstream of the focus position, leading to significant savings in computational time. Excellent agreement is achieved between the water surface elevations and the water particle kinematics measured in the experiments and those predicted numerically at wave group focus, even for near-breaking waves up to a steepness of kA=0.405 for which even locally matched 2nd-order theory is inadequate. Results based on the linear and 2nd-order theory are also presented in the comparisons. When compared with the first- and 2nd-order solutions, the fully nonlinear wave–wave interactions produce a steeper wave envelope in which the central wave crest is higher and narrower, while the adjacent wave troughs are broader and less deep. 相似文献
15.
基于Boussinesq水波模型的聚焦波模拟 总被引：1，自引：1，他引：0
基于最高导数为3阶的单层Boussinesq方程,建立了聚焦波的时域波浪计算模型。数值模型求解采用了预报?校正的有限差分法。对于时间差分格式,预报和校正分别采用3阶Adams-Bashforth格式和4阶Adams-Moulton格式。首先,针对不同水深条件下水槽中传播的强非线性波进行模拟,并将数值结果与流函数的数值解析解进行了比较,结果表明无论是波面位移、波面处的水平速度和垂向速度均与解析解符合较好,最大波峰面的速度分布伴随水深的增加与解析解吻合程度变差,非线性速度分布的适用范围与线性解析解适应范围kh<3.5基本一致。其次,对深水聚焦波演化进行了模拟研究,研究中聚焦波的生成采用在边界点累加不同频率线性规则波的方法。应用聚焦波物理模型实验结果验证模型,计算聚焦位置处的波面位移和沿水深的速度分布与实验结果的对比表明,波面位移吻合程度较好,垂向的水平速度分布基本吻合。最后,保持中心频率(周期)不变,数值模拟了周期范围变化下最大聚焦波峰面以及波峰面水平速度的变化趋势,结果表明波峰面值和波峰面水平速度随着周期范围缩小而增大。 相似文献
16.
Numerical simulations using a full-nonlinear BIM (Boundary Integral Method) potential-theory wave model are carried out to study the internal velocity and acceleration fields of an solitary wave overturning on a reef with vertical face (submerged breakwater) and their relation to breaker type. The simulations make it clear that the jet size normalized by the incident wave height is uniquely governed by the crown height of the reef, while the jet shape is similar and independent of the size. Further, they reveal that the overall internal kinematics of overturning waves is clearly related to the jet size. As the jet size increases and the breaker type changes from spilling to plunging, the kinematics thus become increasingly different from those of steady waves. Water particles with the greatest velocities or accelerations within the wave converge towards the jet. After the breaking, both of the velocities and accelerations almost simultaneously reach extreme values near locations beneath the jet. Some of the extreme values are closely related to the breaker type and can be uniquely determined by substituting the breaker type index into the regression equations suggested here. 相似文献
17.
J.A. Pinkster 《Ocean Engineering》1979,6(6):593-615
A recently developed method, based on three-dimensional potential theory, to compute the mean wave drifting forces on a free floating structure in regular waves, is extended to include low frequency oscillatory components which arise when the structure is floating in regular wave groups consisting of two regular waves with small difference frequency. This completes the information necessary for the determination of the wave drifting forces under arbitrary irregular wave conditions.In regular wave groups the drifting forces not only depend on the first order velocity potential and the first body motions, but also on the wave exciting forces due to the low frequency part of the second order potential. For the general three-dimensional case the latter contribution can only be determined numerically and at the expense of long computation times. Since this contribution is generally not large compared to components which may be determined using linear potential theory it is included using a simple approximation. Results of the method of approximation are compared with some two-dimensional cases for which exact solutions are known.Results of computations of the total mean and low frequency surge forces on a rectangular barge and a column stabilized semi-submersible platform are presented. For both structures, the computed mean surge drifting forces in regular head waves are compared with results of model tests.The computed components of the total mean drifting forces are presented. It appears that for both the barge and the semi-submersible the same components are of importance.For the semi-submersible, the computed low frequency second order surge forces in head waves are compared with results obtained from a test in irregular head waves using cross-bispectral analysis methods. 相似文献
18.
A one-dimensional high-resolution finite volume model capable of simulating storm waves propagating in the coastal surf zone and overtopping a sea wall is presented. The model (AMAZON) is based on solving the non-linear shallow water (NLSW) equations. A modern upwind scheme of the Godunov-type using an HLL approximate Riemann solver is described which captures bore waves in both transcritical and supercritical flows. By employing a finite volume formulation, the method can be implemented on an irregular, structured, boundary-fitted computational mesh. The use of the NLSW equations to model wave overtopping is computationally efficient and practically flexible, though the detailed structure of wave breaking is of course ignored. It is shown that wave overtopping at a vertical wall may also be approximately modelled by representing the wall as a steep bed slope. The AMAZON model solutions have been compared with analytical solutions and laboratory data for wave overtopping at sloping and vertical seawalls and good agreement has been found. The model requires more verification tests for irregular waves before its application as a generic design tool. 相似文献
19.
This paper investigates wave-by-wave control of a wave energy converter using incident wave prediction based on up-wave surface elevation measurement. The goal of control is to approach the hydrodynamically optimum velocity leading to optimum power absorption. This work aims to study the gains in energy conversion from a deterministic wave propagation model that accounts for a range of group velocities in deriving the prediction. The up-wave measurement distance is assumed to be small enough to allow a deterministic propagation model, and further, both wave propagation and device response are assumed to be linear. For deep water conditions and long-crested waves, the propagation process is also described using an impulse response function (e.g. [1]). Approximate low and high frequency limits for realistic band-limited spectra are used to compute the corresponding group velocity limits. The prediction time into the future is based on the device impulse response function needed for the evaluation of the control force. The up-wave distance and the duration of measurement are then determined using the group velocity limits above.A 2-body axisymmetric heaving device is considered, for which power capture is through the relative heave oscillation between the two co-axial bodies. The power take-off is assumed to be linear and ideal as well as capable of applying the necessary resistive and reactive load components on the relative heave oscillation. The predicted wave profile is used along with device impulse response functions to compute the actuator force components at each instant. Calculations are carried out in irregular waves generated using a number of uni-modal wave spectra over a range of energy periods and significant wave heights. Results are compared with previous studies based on the use of instantaneous up-wave wave-profile measurements, both without and with oscillation constraints imposed. Considerable improvements in power capture are observed with the present approach over the range of wave conditions studied. 相似文献
20.
Franoise Ozanne Andrew J. Chadwick David A. Huntley David J. Simmonds John Lawrence 《Coastal Engineering》2000,41(4)
In this paper, the performance of a 1-D Boussinesq model is evaluated against laboratory data for its ability to predict surf zone velocity moments. Wave evolution over a plane beach and a complex bathymetry both extending into the surf-zone is examined for six cases. For the plane beach, these comprise two cases, a spilling and a plunging cnoidal wave. For the complex bathymetry, these comprise four cases of longer and short wavelengths (spilling and plunging breakers), with regular and irregular periodicity. The model evaluation places emphasis on parameters of the wave field that could be used for the prediction of sediment transport; orbital velocity, undertow, velocity skewness, kurtosis and asymmetry. It is found that, despite an overestimation of the depth-averaged horizontal velocity in the regular waves cases, the predicted higher order velocity moments and undertow are in good agreement with the laboratory data. A bispectral analysis demonstrates that the nonlinear transfers of energy amongst the low order harmonics are well reproduced, but energy exchanges with the higher harmonics are less well predicted. As a result, the model handles velocity moments better in the shorter wave tests than in the long wave cases where triad interactions are stronger. Of the four parameters describing wave breaking, the model behaviour is most sensitive to the critical wave front slope φB, especially with regard to velocity skewness and kurtosis predictions. It is also found that increasing the thickness of the surface roller for the case of plunging breakers improves the model's performance. 相似文献