共查询到19条相似文献，搜索用时 140 毫秒
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基于二维不可压缩两相流模型建立了数值风浪水槽,采用SST k-ω雷诺时均湍流模型,研究了风作用下孤立波在珊瑚礁上的传播变形规律。将计算结果与实验数据对比,证明了该两相流模型计算孤立波在珊瑚礁上传播的准确性,并进一步分析了不同风速对珊瑚礁上孤立波传播变形的影响。结果表明：风的作用会使波面发生随机脉动特征。当地波高随风速的增大而增大;当地波高关于风速的变化梯度随入射波高的增大而增大。风的作用会加快孤立波的传播并且使孤立波提前发生破碎;孤立波开始破碎的位置随风速的增大向远离礁坪的方向移动。反射系数随风速的增大而增大;反射系数关于风速的变化梯度随入射波高的增大而减小;透射系数随风速的增大呈增大趋势。平底区波峰剖面同一水深处的水平流速随风速的增大而增大;且一定的风速不改变水平流速沿水深的变化梯度。有风时波面上方的矢量密度和大小均明显高于无风时且与风速呈正相关,并且波峰上方气流不再循环。随着风速的增大,水气交界面附近的正涡量和负湍流剪应力减小,负涡量和正湍流剪应力增大。水体动能、势能和总能达到高值的时间随风速的增大而减少;水体动能、势能和总能随风速的增大而增大,并且风速对水体动能的相对影响大于势能。 相似文献
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全球海岸生态系统正遭受气候变化及人类活动带来的威胁, 本文基于沙坝-潟湖系统海岸典型剖面形态, 通过设计实施动床波浪水槽试验, 定量研究了侵蚀浪条件下沉水植被对该系统海岸冲淤的影响。结果表明: 沉水植被明显削弱了沙坝前坡波浪破碎区前缘的波高增大幅度, 并使坝后波高衰减; 植被作用使波浪反射和透射系数减小、耗散系数增大; 侵蚀浪作用下, 沙坝坝顶冲刷较明显, 潟湖内呈淤积趋势, 海岸前丘受波浪冲刷呈陡坎形态。植被影响下沙坝和前丘区域最大侵蚀厚度均减小; 植被可减少沙坝净侵蚀量、潟湖内淤积量及离岸输沙量, 对海岸前丘有较好的保护作用。 相似文献
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通过测试一系列不规则波工况研究了防浪建筑物存在下珊瑚礁海岸附近短波、低频长波和增水的变化规律,并对比了防浪建筑物的不同位置情况。分析结果表明：波浪在沿礁传播过程中,短波波高沿礁坪持续衰减,低频长波波高沿礁坪逐渐增大,波浪增水则沿礁坪基本保持不变;海岸附近短波随着防浪建筑物与礁缘距离的变大而减小,低频长波则在防浪建筑物处于礁坪后部时达到最大,防浪建筑物位置的变化对于礁坪波浪增水的影响可以忽略。通过理论分析证明了珊瑚礁地形上低频长波是由于群波破碎造成的破碎点移动而产生的;当特定波况作用于特定位置的防浪建筑物时,低频长波在礁坪上会发生一阶共振效应导致其能量在海岸附近达到最大值。 相似文献
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通过在波浪水槽中采用概化的珊瑚岸礁物理模型来研究珊瑚礁海岸附近波浪增水的变化规律,包括平均自由表面的沿礁变化以及礁坪上的最大增水值。物理模型实验分别测试了不同礁面糙率密度影响下的一系列不规则波工况。结果分析表明:礁面粗糙时礁坪上的透射波高和最大增水值均相对于礁面光滑时减小;通过两个无量纲参数分析表明光滑礁面时,礁坪上最大增水随波要素的变化规律与此前研究数据基本吻合,前人研究推荐的无量纲数■和■需考虑礁面粗糙度的影响;礁面粗糙程度不同时,礁坪上的透射波高随礁面糙率密度的增大而减小,礁坪上的最大波浪增水则随之增大;最后通过沿水深积分对波浪求平均的水平一维动量方程解释了本实验的观测现象。 相似文献
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通过在波浪水槽中进行一系列物理模型实验, 研究珊瑚礁礁坪宽度变化对珊瑚礁海岸附近波浪传播变形及礁坪上波浪增水的影响。物理实验采用理想化的珊瑚礁模型, 测试了3种礁坪宽度下的一系列不规则波工况。实验结果分析表明: 波浪沿礁传播过程中, 短波持续衰减; 低频长波波高沿礁逐渐增大, 直到海岸线附近达到最大; 随着礁坪宽度的增加, 海岸线附近的短波波高呈下降趋势, 低频长波波高的变化规律不显著; 礁坪上的波浪增水受礁坪宽度变化的影响不明显; 通过对海岸线附近的波浪进行频谱分析发现, 礁坪上低频长波的运动存在着一阶共振模式, 且共振放大效应强度受礁坪水深、入射波峰周期和礁坪宽度共同影响。 相似文献
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为研究波浪聚焦特性,分析极端波浪的产生机理,采用非静压模型通过数值模拟的方法对波浪聚焦的影响因素进行了详细研究。本文采用SWASH非静压波浪模型,模型垂向均匀分三层以保证足够的色散精度以及非线性精度来高效准确的模拟波浪在变化地形上的传播。研究发现在最大波浪未发生破碎时,波浪在半圆形凸起斜坡浅滩上传播,波浪聚焦是波高增大的最主要原因。初始kR(波数与浅滩半径乘积)值对波浪在该地形上的聚焦特性有着重要影响。初始kR越大,最大波高位置距聚焦地形坡脚的距离越远。当kR在1.4π~4.05π之间时,随着kR的减小,最大相对波高先增大后减小,当kR=2.45π时,最大相对波高达到极大值,可达2.48倍初始波高。 相似文献
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本文通过波浪水槽试验研究了大糙率礁面影响下波浪沿礁的演化和爬高规律,测试了一系列规则波工况并对比了光滑礁面和粗糙礁面的情况。结果分析表明：二次谐波是礁坪上透射波的重要组成成分,粗糙礁面使主频波和二次谐波减小,对更高阶波的影响不显著;相对礁坪水深是描述礁坪上波浪透射的关键参数,礁面从光滑变为粗糙时海岸附近透射系数显著减小,能量衰减系数平均增大了8%,但礁前反射系数与礁面糙率之间无明显关系;礁后岸滩爬高随着透射波高的增大而增长,最后拟合了本文试验条件下珊瑚礁大糙率礁面预测规则波爬高的关系式。 相似文献
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The wave-induced setup and circulation in a two dimensional horizontal (2DH) reef-lagoon-channel system is investigated by a non-hydrostatic model. The simulated results agree well with observations from the laboratory experiments, revealing that the model is valid in simulating wave transformation and currents over reefs. The effects of incident wave height, period, and reef flat water depth on the mean sea level and wave-driven currents are examined. Results show that the distributions of mean sea level and current velocities on the reef flat adjacent to the channel vary significantly from those in the area close to the side walls. From the wave averaged current field, an obvious alongshore flux flowing from the reef flat to the channel is captured. The flux from the reef flat composes the second source of the offshore rip current, while the first source is from the lagoon. A detailed momentum balance analysis shows that the alongshore current is mainly induced by the pressure gradient between the reef flat and the channel. In the lagoon, the momentum balances are between the pressure and radiation stress gradient, which drives flow towards the channel. Along the channel, the offshore current is mainly driven by the pressure gradient. 相似文献
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《Ocean Modelling》2011,39(3-4):230-243
A three-dimensional numerical model was established to simulate the wave-induced currents. The depth-varying residual momentum, surface roller, wave horizontal and vertical turbulent mixing effects were incorporated as major driving forces. A surface roller evolution model considering the energy transfer, roller density and bottom slope dissipation was developed. The expression of the wave-induced horizontal turbulent mixing coefficient proposed by Larson and Kraus (1991) was extended to three-dimensional form. Plenty of experimental cases were used to validate the established model covering the wave setup, undertow, longshore currents and rip currents. Validation results showed the model could reasonably describe the main characteristics of different wave-induced current phenomena. The incorporation of surface roller for breaking waves should not be neglected in the modeling of surfzone hydrodynamics. The wave-induced turbulent mixing affects the structures of wave-induced current either in horizontal or in vertical directions. Sensitivity analysis of the major calibration parameters in the established model was made and their ranges were evaluated. 相似文献
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It has been well observed that a reef crest (ridge) may be present at the reef edge, but so far very few published studies focusing on the effects of such reef-crest on the wave dynamics over fringing reefs. To understand the role of a reef-crest configuration in determining breaking-wave induced setup over the reef flat, a series of experiments were carried out in a wave flume using an idealized fringing reef model with a reef crest. Experimental results were reported for a trapezoidal reef crest with five reef-crest widths under a series of monochromatic waves. Also examined was the reef without a reef crest. Data analysis shows that larger energy dissipation associated with smaller surfzone width around the reef edge occurred with a wider reef crest. The maximum wave-induced setup on the reef flat in the presence of the reef crest was significantly larger than that without, and it also increased with increasing reef-crest width. The reef-crest submergence was found to be a primary parameter controlling the magnitude of wave setup on the reef flat provided that the reef crest was sufficient wide. An alternative semi-analytical 1DH model based on the balance of cross-shore momentum was proposed. The model was validated by present laboratory data as well as three existing 1DH laboratory studies. Comparing with other two representative semi-analytical models in the literature showed that the proposed model was capable of better reproducing the maximum wave-induced setup on the reef flat for a variety of reef profiles with/without a reef crest, different reef-crest water levels, as well as both monochromatic and spectral waves. The model parameter was physically related to the two characteristic lengths in the surf zone and its value was dependent on the fore-reef slope as well as the presence of a reef crest. The 1DH model was also satisfactorily applied to a fringing reef in field conditions where the effects of fore-reef friction and back-reef lagoon were not important. 相似文献
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A probabilistic model (
-model) was developed to describe the propagation and transformation of individual waves (wave by wave approach). The individual waves shoal until an empirical criterion for breaking is satisfied. Wave height decay after breaking is modelled by using an energy dissipation method. Wave-induced set-up and set-down and breaking-associated longshore currents are also modelled. Laboratory and field data were used to calibrate and verify the model. The model was calibrated by adjusting the wave breaking coefficient (as a function of local wave steepness and bottom slope) to obtain optimum agreement between measured and computed wave height. Four tests carried out in the large Delta flume of Delft Hydraulics were considered. Generally, the measured H1/3-wave heights are reasonably well represented by the model in all zones from deep water to the shallow surf zone. The fraction of breaking waves was reasonably well represented by the model in the upsloping zones of the bottom profile. Verification of the model results with respect to wave-induced longshore current velocities was not extensive, because of a lack of data. In case of a barred profile the measured longshore velocities showed a relatively uniform distribution in the (trough) zone between the bar crest and the shoreline, which could to some extent be modelled by including space-averaging of the radiation force gradient, horizontal mixing and longshore water surface gradients related to variations in set-up. In case of a monotonically upsloping profile the cross-shore distribution of the longshore current velocities is reasonably well represented. 相似文献
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By coupling the three-dimensional hydrodynamic model with the wave model, numerical simulations of the three-dimensional wave-induced current are carried out in this study. The wave model is based on the numerical solution of the modified wave action equation and eikonal equation, which can describe the wave refraction and diffraction. The hydrodynamic model is driven by the wave-induced radiation stresses and affected by the wave turbulence. The numerical implementation of the module has used the finite-volume schemes on unstructured grid, which provides great flexibility for modeling the waves and currents in the complex actual nearshore, and ensures the conservation of energy propagation. The applicability of the proposed model is evaluated in calculating the cases of wave set-up, longshore currents, undertow on a sloping beach, rip currents and meandering longshore currents on a tri-cuspate beach. The results indicate that it is necessary to introduce the depth-dependent radiation stresses into the numerical simulation of wave-induced currents, and comparisons show that the present model makes better prediction on the wave procedure as well as both horizontal and vertical structures in the wave-induced current field. 相似文献
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Many low-lying tropical and sub-tropical atolls fringed by coral reefs are susceptible to coastal inundation during extreme wave events. Previous studies have shown that the infragravity (IG) wave is the dominant component of shoreline run-up compared to the sea and swell (SS) wave and the wave-induced setup. To better understand both the SS and IG wave dynamics over a fringing reef with various morphologies, a series of laboratory experiments were conducted in a wave flume based on an idealized fringing reef profile. The shoreline responses of waves to different reef morphologies with/without the reef crest, the lagoon and the reef surface roughness were examined. IG wave resonance on the reef flat was identified by a spectral analysis of the shoreline wave records. Subsequently, a numerical model based on the Boussinesq equations was validated by the experimental data. The model was then applied to investigate the impacts of varying reef morphologic features (fore-reef slope, reef-crest width, lagoon width, and reef roughness coefficient) on the shoreline wave motions. 相似文献
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A field experiment on the nature of rip currents was conducted on the Dutch coast, which differs from previous rip current study sites because it is a wind-sea dominated environment with mostly obliquely incident waves and tidally-driven longshore currents. During the experiment three distinct flow patterns, obtained with GPS tracked drifter instruments, were observed: (1) a locally governed circulation cell, (2) an offshore current that is deflected shore parallel outside the surf zone and (3) a meandering longshore current. The transition from rip currents (flow patterns 1 and 2) to meandering longshore currents (flow pattern 3) occurred gradually within the tidal cycle with longshore currents prevalent at mid to high tide. Rip currents at this site appeared at depressions in the surf zone bar and typically occurred when the water level fell below NAP (equivalent to MSL), even in the presence of obliquely incident waves and tidally driven longshore currents. Hindcast simulations of the drifter experiments were performed with the numerical model XBeach and showed good agreement with field observations. The model was subsequently used to investigate the influence of tidal water level fluctuations, longshore currents and obliquely incident waves on rip currents.Rip currents were initiated when the water level dropped below a specific threshold with the magnitude of the rip current associated with the water level. The strength of the tidal current and its orientation with respect to the incident waves governed the offshore extent and orientation of the rip current. In contrast to other studies that suggest that rip currents solely occur under shore normal (or slightly oblique waves), in this study both observations and numerical model simulations indicate that rip currents can exist under large angles of wave incidence, when the rip channel is sufficiently wide and the wave height is small. 相似文献
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Wave-induced setup/setdown and longshore currents are examined theoretically for non-planar, concave-up beaches. A beach profile in which the still-water-depth is proportional to the horizontal distance offshore raised to the power is examined in detail. The total mean-water-depth, which includes the sum of the still-water-depth for this power beach profile plus the wave-induced setup/setdown, may be approximated shoreward of the breaker line in a best least-squares sense by a profile that is proportional to the horizontal distance offshore raised to the power. The longshore current profile for this non-planar beach is found to differ significantly from that predicted analytically for a planar beach. The longshore current velocity does not vanish at the shoreline as in the planar beach case. In addition, the peak velocities and the total longshore transport of water are found to be less than for the corresponding planar beach cases. For a given concave-up beach profile, the influence of the lateral mixing increases as the wave height decreases. 相似文献
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沙坝海岸沿岸流速度剖面特征研究 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
通过对两个坡度沙坝地形沿岸流实验测量和基于能量方程的沿岸流数值模拟,研究了沙坝海岸平均沿岸流速度剖面的双峰剖面特征,重点分析了第二个峰值的特征和两峰值的比值。综合考虑入射波高、入射波类型和坡度对波生沿岸流垂直岸线速度剖面的影响。结果表明,平均沿岸流速度剖面出现双峰剖面特征:第一峰值发生在沙坝向岸侧面的中部,第二个峰值发生在靠近岸线处;同一坡度情况两个峰值的位置和比值,不受入射波类型、入射波高的影响。数值模型中包括了侧混、底摩擦和水滚等因素,其数值模拟结果和实验值拟合较好,并讨论了有无侧混和水滚对速度剖面的影响。 相似文献