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1.
The present study investigates the drift of two-dimensional floating surface films by both deep and shallow water waves in the laboratory. The focus is on the observations and measurements on the drift behavior and to clarify some outstanding issues. Thin polyethylene sheets with reflective markers were attached to simulate the inextensible surface films. Upon the initiation of a wave train, two infrared cameras recorded continuously the instantaneous position of the markers at 50 Hz. The temporal variation of the drift velocity was then determined by processing the recorded data. In all experiments, the drift velocity increased quickly in the beginning and reached a quasi-steady mean value. The magnitude of the surface drift typically increased with the longitudinal length of the polyethylene sheet until the sheet length was approximately the same as the wavelength. Lengthening the sheet length further did not lead to significant changes in the drift velocity. Under the shallow water condition, the wave-induced drift velocity increased linearly with the Ursell number and with a lower water depth.  相似文献   

2.
The results of field investigations of the drift of surface films are presented. The experiments were performed at the southern coast of the Crimea in the area of an oceanographic platform. It is shown that the drift of a thin film is described well by a linear combination of the vectors of the coastal current and wind, and the coefficient of the current velocity is close to unity. The total velocity of wind and wave drifts is 0.013 of the wind velocity magnitude or 0.38 of the air friction velocity. Analysis of experimental data demonstrates an increase in the film spreading rate with increasing wind velocity.  相似文献   

3.
In this study, the surface drift of an inextensible film due to a series of progressive gravity waves is investigated both analytically and experimentally. A second approximation of the conformal mapping that transforms the progressive sinusoidal surface to the horizontal axis is applied, thus allowing the analysis to formally accommodate a boundary layer thickness that is much less than the wave height. By computing the stream function to the third order that is an order higher than the past analysis, a pressure component in phase with the wave slope is revealed. The pressure force generated is comparable to the bottom shear on the thin film induced by the moving fluid and thus cannot be ignored. Based on the combined forces on the surface firm, a mean drift is estimated by assuming that the opposing force is due to the viscous drag induced by the drift motion. The experimental results show that the computed drift velocity based on the present study mostly underestimates the experimental observations, but it is in closer agreement than the classical Phillips' 7/4 estimate.  相似文献   

4.
Spilled oil floats and travels across the water’s surface under the influence of wind, currents, and wave action. Wave-induced Stokes drift is an important physical process that can affect surface water particles but that is currently absent from oil spill analyses. In this study, two methods are applied to determine the velocity of Stokes drift, the first calculates velocity from the wind-related formula based upon a one-dimensional frequency spectrum, while the second determines velocity directly from the wave model that was based on a two-dimensional spectrum. The experimental results of numerous models indicated that: (1) oil simulations that include the influence of Stokes drift are more accurate than that those do not; (2) for medium and long-term simulations longer than two days or more, Stokes drift is a significant factor that should not be ignored, and its magnitude can reach about 2% of the wind speed; (3) the velocity of Stokes drift is related to the wind but is not linear. Therefore, Stokes drift cannot simply be replaced or substituted by simply increasing the wind drift factor, which can cause errors in oil spill projections; (4) the Stokes drift velocity obtained from the two-dimensional wave spectrum makes the oil spill simulation more accurate.  相似文献   

5.
Wave-tank studies were conducted on the measurement of the drift velocity at the breaking point under different types of breaking waves on a rigid, plane beach. The drift velocity has onshore direction near the surface and close to the bottom; in the main flow column, the drift velocity is always offshore. The offshore drift velocity shows a more uniform vertical distribution than that in the offshore region. The experimental data are compared with theoretical values of three different second-order constant-depth wave theories. Comparisons with data from other sources are also made.  相似文献   

6.
合成孔径雷达(SAR)海面场景原始数据仿真是研究海洋动力参数(表面波浪、风矢量和洋流)的有效工具。目前海面场景原始数据仿真方法已经基于逆Omega-K算法实现了海洋运动参数的空间变化。但是目前仅仅讨论了正侧视情况下的海面场景仿真,应用范围有限,同时没有考虑Stokes漂流以及Bragg相速度的影响,而这两者都是存在于真实海面的。通常情况下为了反演得到海面流场的二维速度矢量,雷达需要从两个不同的方位方向观察海面的同一个区域,因此这就需要考虑大斜视的雷达波束,同时Stokes漂流和Bragg相速度是SAR海表面流场观测不容忽视的两种运动。本文在不改变原有正侧视逆Omega-K算法的情况下,通过增加重新计算零方位时刻的斜视波束中心位置坐标,并据此确定SAR原始数据在多普勒域的位置来将其扩展到大斜侧视逆Omega-K算法,并通过时域Stokes漂流公式到频域内离散化Stokes漂流公式的推导来加入Stokes漂流,以及根据Bragg散射机制加入了Bragg相速度。仿真结果表明,经过聚焦成像后的SAR图像很好的体现了真实海面波浪场的形状,同时能够很好地反演出设定的雷达径向流场速度,且流速精度误差控制在6%以内。最后也证明了Bragg相速度以及Stokes漂流对于海面流场的影响不可忽视。  相似文献   

7.
漂浮于自由水面的污染物的的迁移、扩散会受到天然随机海浪的影响。之前的研究(以Herterich和Hasselmann(1982)为代表)普遍认为,随机波浪作用下的斯托克司漂移速度会引起水面污染物的离散,这个离散甚至有可能跟风和海流引起的离散同一量级。本研究就随机波浪作用下的斯托克司漂移速度是否会引起水面漂移物的离散进行理论和试验探讨。从理论推导可知,随机波浪下的质量输移速度是个定常分量,因此它不会随时间变化而引起水面漂移物的离散。随后我们在实验室水槽中进行了漂移物在随机波浪(P-M谱)作用下的漂移过程的测量。试验结果也印证了随机波浪作用下的斯托克司漂移速度不会引起水面漂移物离散的结论。  相似文献   

8.
一个新的破碎波统计模式   总被引:6,自引:1,他引:6       下载免费PDF全文
由运动方程和涡度方程所导得的两个首次积分估计给出了海波破碎的发生条件和破碎波的波面限制。由这两个条件所构造的新的破碎波统计模式,可导出海波的破碎面积率、破碎体积率和破碎能量损耗率的解析表达式,加之一个简单的白冠物理模型又导出了一个新的白冠覆盖率的解析表达式。  相似文献   

9.
A solution is presented for the wave induced drift forces acting on a submerged sphere in a finite water depth based on linearised velocity potential theory. In order to obtain the velocity potential, use has been made of multipole expansions in terms of an infinite series of Legendre functions with unknown coefficients. The series expression for the second order mean forces (drift forces) is provided by integrating the fluid pressure over the body surface. The horizontal drift force is also expressed by a series solution obtained using the far-field method.  相似文献   

10.
The ocean drift current consists of a (local) pure drift current generated by the interaction of wind and waves at the sea surface, to which the surface geostrophic current is added vectorially. We present (a) a similarity solution for the wave boundary layer (which has been validated through the prediction of the 10-m drag law), from which the component of pure drift current along the direction of the wind (and hence the speed factor) can be evaluated from the 10-m wind speed and the peak wave period, and (b) a similarity solution for the Ekman layers of the two fluids, which shows that under steady-state neutral conditions the pure drift current lies along the direction of the geostrophic wind, and has a magnitude 0.034 that of the geostrophic wind speed. The co-existence of these two similarity solutions indicates that the frictional properties of the coupled air-sea system are easily evaluated functions of the 10-m wind speed and the peak wave period, and also leads to a simple expression for the angle of deflection of the pure drift current to the 10 m wind. The analysis provides a dynamical model for global ocean drift on monthly and annual time scales for which the steady-state neutral model is a good approximation. In particular, the theoretical results appear to be able to successfully predict the mean surface drift measured by HF Radar, which at present is the best technique for studying the near surface velocity profile.  相似文献   

11.
The tidal ice drift is treated as an element of the three-dimensional tidal dynamics in a sea covered by ice. This dynamics is described by the QUODDY-4 finite-element model, and the tidal ice drift is described by a continuous viscous-elastic approximation. We present the results of modeling not only the tidal ice drift (M 2 wave) (its velocity, direction, and tidal variations in the concentration and pressure of ice compression) but also ice-induced changes in tidal dynamics and the residual tidal ice drift. The modeling results indicate that the maximum velocity of tidal ice drift, which is determined by a combination of various factors responsible for ice evolution and primarily by the horizontal gradient of the level and local tidal velocity, can be higher or lower than the velocity of the surface tidal current in the ice-free sea. This depends on the sign of deviations of tidal sea level elevations in the sea covered by ice from their values in the ice-free sea. In addition, it has been found that ice cover has a stronger effect on the energetics of tides than on their dynamics: the area-mean relative deviations constitute 1.5% for the density of the total tidal energy, 61.5% for the dissipation, 0.1% for the amplitudes of tidal sea level elevations, and 0.9% for the amplitudes of maximum barotropic tidal velocity. In this sense, the conclusion that the role of sea ice is insignificant in the formation of tides can be justified only partially. The main results of this paper are as follows: (1) the development of a module for tidal ice drift, (2) the inclusion of this module into the three-dimensional finite-element hydrothermodynamic model QUODDY-4 to extend its capabilities, and (3) the reproduction (on the basis of the modified model) of qualitative features of the practically important tidal ice drift and ice-induced changes in the tidal dynamics of marginal seas on the Siberian continental shelf.  相似文献   

12.
On the effects of wave drift on the dispersion of floating pollutants   总被引:1,自引:0,他引:1  
The movement of floating pollutants such as oil slicks on the surface of the sea is due to a number different factors, among which wave drift is certainly significant.In principle, it has been known since Stokes' time that a floating particle is subject to the movement caused by the orbital motion of water particles and that an average drift velocity results because the trajectories are not closed. In the past, however, this effect was often either disregarded or simply included with the surface wind induced current. In recent times the difference between the two effects has been conceptually clarified, so that the average wave drift in random one-dimensional seas has been the object of research and the results are now included in most handbooks and models for oil slick forecasting.Due to the chaotic nature of the wave field, however, the drift also causes floating substances to disperse, and this phenomenon is a much more neglected area of research. Recent work by Bovolin et al. [IAHR Congress, 1997] and Sobey and Barker [J. Coast. Res. 13 (1997)] has brought the subject to attention, and computational tools can now be made to quantify the effect and to verify when and how it should be taken into consideration in oil slick accident practise.The work presented in this paper is based on random simulation of the wave induced Eulerian velocity field in a directional sea, by making use of standard offshore wave directional models and on the ensemble averaging of floating particles trajectories in order to compute the spatial dispersion.  相似文献   

13.
A fourth-order solution is derived for the mean drift induced by a steady train of waves in water of constant depth. New measurements are carried out of the drift in the body of the fluid and the drift velocity gradient at the free surface. Comparison of theory and experiment shows significantly better agreement with the present fourth-order solution than with the previous second-order solution of Longuet-Higgins, M.S., 1953 [Phil. Trans. R. Soc.245, 535–581]. In particular, the present solution reproduces the observed tendency of the surface drift velocity to rise in shallow water and to level-off in very deep water.  相似文献   

14.
Sea ice drift is mainly controlled by ocean currents, local wind, and internal ice stress. Information on sea ice motion, especially in situ synchronous observation of an ice velocity, a current velocity, and a wind speed, is of great significance to identify ice drift characteristics. A sea ice substitute, the so-called "modelled ice", which is made by polypropylene material with a density similar to Bohai Sea ice, is used to complete a free drift experiment in the open sea. The trajectories of isolated modelled ice, currents and wind in the Bohai Sea during non-frozen and frozen periods are obtained. The results show that the currents play a major role while the wind plays a minor role in the free drift of isolated modelled ice when the wind is mild in the Bohai Sea. The modelled ice drift is significantly affected by the ocean current and wind based on the ice–current–wind relationship established by a multiple linear regression. The modelled ice velocity calculated by the multiple linear regression is close to that of the in situ observation, the magnitude of the error between the calculated and observed ice velocities is less than12.05%, and the velocity direction error is less than 6.21°. Thus, the ice velocity can be estimated based on the observed current velocity and wind speed when the in situ observed ice velocity is missing. And the modelled ice of same thickness with a smaller density is more sensitive to the current velocity and the wind speed changes. In addition, the modelled ice drift characteristics are shown to be close to those of the real sea ice, which indicates that the modelled ice can be used as a good substitute of real ice for in situ observation of the free ice drift in the open sea, which helps solve time availability, safety and logistics problems related to in situ observation on real ice.  相似文献   

15.
A continuous observation system of ship drift of ferry boats was developed using Loran C, ship direction, ship speed and wind velocity measurement. A formula to estimate the wind-driven lateral drift of the boat is proposed, and a measuring system of the surface current is described, including a discussions on its usefullness to monitor day-to-day variations of the circulation patterns in the coastal boundary regions of the Kuroshio.This system was applied to observe variations of the circulation in the Kumano-nada, and Enshu-nada Seas south of Japan. Some preliminary results were obtained by using this system as well as other methods. This work focuses on the behavior of warm eddies in the Kumano-nada Sea. The surface current patterns that include these phenomena obtained by the use of the ship drift show good correspondence with currents and thermal structures observed with GEK, CTD, moored current meters and satellite thermal images.  相似文献   

16.
An analytical model including the boundary-layer effect is developed to find the steady drift induced by the non-linear effect of the surface-wave motion. The analytical result is compared with the experimental results obtained from a wave tank. Results show a qualitative agreement. A semi-empirical formula which predicts drift velocity of a contaminant layer on the free surface is introduced and its validity is investigated.  相似文献   

17.
18.
Wind-wave tunnel experiments reveal, by use of techniques of the flow visualization, that wind waves are accompanied by the wind drift surface current with large velocity shear and with horizontal variation of velocity relative to the wave profile. The surface current converges from the crest to a little leeward face of the crest, making a downward flow there, even though the wave is not breaking. Namely, wind waves are accompanied by forced convections relative to the crests of the waves. Since the location of the convergence and the downward flow travels on the water surface as the crest of the wave propagates, the motion as a whole is characterized by turbulent structure as well as by the nature of water-surface waves. In this meaning, the term of real wind waves is proposed in contrast with ordinary water waves. The study of real wind waves will be essential in future development of the study of wind waves.  相似文献   

19.
雷达测冰实验初报   总被引:2,自引:0,他引:2  
为监测辽东湾东北部海面和营口新港近岸的流冰,我们于1981年12月至1982年3月初在鲅鱼圈进行了岸边雷达测冰工作。  相似文献   

20.
In the Boussinesq approximation, we study the nonlinear effects observed in the process of propagation of internal waves in the presence of turbulence. The space damping factor of the waves is evaluated. The Stokes drift velocity and the Euler velocity of the mean current induced by waves due to the presence of nonlinearity are determined. It is shown that the principal contribution to the wave transfer is made by the horizontal velocity of the induced current. The Stokes drift is significant only near the bottom. The vertical component of the Stokes drift velocity obtained with regard for the turbulent viscosity is nonzero.  相似文献   

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