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1.
《Coastal Engineering》2005,52(4):353-387
Waves breaking on the seaward rim of a coral reef generate a flow of water from the exposed side of the reef to the sheltered side and/or to either channels through the reef-rim or lower sections of the latter. This wave-generated flow is driven by the water surface gradient resulting from the wave set-up created by the breaking waves.This paper reviews previous approaches to modelling wave-generated flows across coral reefs and discusses the influence of reef morphology and roughness upon these flows. Laboratory measurements upon a two-dimensional horizontal reef platform with a steep reef face provide the basis for extending a previous theoretical analysis for wave set-up on a reef in the absence of a flow [Gourlay, M.R., 1996b. Wave set-up on coral reefs. 2. Set-up on reefs with various profiles. Coastal Engineering 28, 17–55] to include the interaction between a unidirectional flow and the wave set-up. The laboratory model results are then used to demonstrate that there are two basic reef-top flow regimes—reef-top control and reef-rim control. Using open channel flow theory, analytical relationships are derived for the reef-top current velocity in terms of the offreef wave conditions, the reef-top water depth and the physical characteristics of the reef-top topography. The wave set-up and wave-generated flow relationships are found to predict experimental values with reasonable accuracy in most cases. The analytical relationships are used to investigate wave-generated flows into a boat harbour channel on Heron Reef in the southern Great Barrier Reef.  相似文献   

2.
Experiments were performed in a wave flume to measure the intensity, transmission and reflection of waves breaking over a submerged reef with an offshore gradient of 1:10. The results demonstrate that the relative water depth over the reef crest (hc/Ho) is a dominant factor affecting the breaking characteristics. In particular it is found that as the relative crest submergence is reduced, there is a considerable increase in the intensity of wave breaking over the reef that can be quantified through measurements of the air cavity enclosed beneath the plunging jet. It is also shown that there is a corresponding decrease in wave transmission and reflection as the submergence is reduced.  相似文献   

3.
Many low-lying tropical and sub-tropical atolls fringed by coral reefs are susceptible to coastal inundation during extreme wave events. Previous studies have shown that the infragravity (IG) wave is the dominant component of shoreline run-up compared to the sea and swell (SS) wave and the wave-induced setup. To better understand both the SS and IG wave dynamics over a fringing reef with various morphologies, a series of laboratory experiments were conducted in a wave flume based on an idealized fringing reef profile. The shoreline responses of waves to different reef morphologies with/without the reef crest, the lagoon and the reef surface roughness were examined. IG wave resonance on the reef flat was identified by a spectral analysis of the shoreline wave records. Subsequently, a numerical model based on the Boussinesq equations was validated by the experimental data. The model was then applied to investigate the impacts of varying reef morphologic features (fore-reef slope, reef-crest width, lagoon width, and reef roughness coefficient) on the shoreline wave motions.  相似文献   

4.
《Coastal Engineering》1998,35(3):185-209
Two depth inversion algorithms (DIA) applicable to coastal waters are developed, calibrated, and validated based on results of computations of periodic waves shoaling over mild slopes, in a two-dimensional numerical wave tank based on fully nonlinear potential flow (FNPF) theory. In actual field situations, these algorithms would be used to predict the cross-shore depth variation h based on sets of values of wave celerity c and length L, and either wave height H or left–right asymmetry s2/s1, simultaneously measured at a number of locations in the direction of wave propagation, e.g., using video or radar remote sensing techniques. In these DIAs, an empirical relationship, calibrated for a series of computations in the numerical wave tank, is used to express c as a function of relative depth koh and deep water steepness koHo. To carry out depth inversion, wave period is first predicted as the mean of observed L/c values, and Ho is then predicted, either based on observed H or s2/s1 values. The celerity relationship is finally inverted to predict depth h. The algorithms are validated by applying them to results of computations for cases with more complex bottom topography and different incident waves than in the original calibration computations. In all cases, root-mean-square (rms)-errors for the depth predictions are found to be less than a few percent, whereas depth predictions based on the linear dispersion relationship—which is still the basis for many state-of-the-art DIAs—have rms-errors 5 to 10 times larger.  相似文献   

5.
Influences of topographic variations of the offshore fringing reef on the harbor oscillations excited by incident Nwaves with different amplitudes and waveform types are studied for the first time. Both the propagation of the Nwaves over the reef and the subsequently-induced harbor oscillations are simulated by a Boussinesq-type numerical model, FUNWAVE-TVD. The present study concentrates on revealing the influences of the plane reef-face slope,the reef-face profile shape and the lagoon width on the maximum runup, the wave energy distribution and the total wave energy within the harbor. It shows that both the wave energy distribution uniformity and the total wave energy gradually increase with decreasing reef-face slope. The profile shape of the reef face suffering leading-elevation Nwaves(LEN waves) has a negligible impact on the wave energy distribution uniformity, while for leading-depression N-waves(LDN waves), the latter gradually decreases with the mean water depth over the reef face. The total wave energy always first increases and then decreases with the mean water depth over the reef face. In general, the total wave energy first sharply decreases and then slightly increases with the lagoon width, regardless of the reef-face width and the incident waveform type. The maximum runup subjected to the LEN waves decreases monotonously with the lagoon width. However, for the LDN waves, its changing trend with the lagoon width relies on the incident wave amplitude.  相似文献   

6.
在试验水池中,开展了波浪在岛礁地形上演化问题的研究。首先在实验水池中建立了西太平洋某岛礁地形的模型,然后采用改进的JONSWAP谱,由造波机产生不同周期、波高的随机波浪。试验中观察到了不同类型畸形波生成的过程及不同波面形态的畸形波。对偏度、峰度及水深与畸形波要素Hm/Hs（Hm表示波列中的最大波高, Hs为有效波高）的关系进行了详细的分析,同时,对畸形波波高Hfr与偏度的关也进行了分析。通过对试验结果分析,发现峰度与畸形波要素i>Hm/Hs呈正相关, Hfr增大时相应的偏度也会呈现增大的趋势。此外,水深的变化剧烈时（如斜坡、海山位置）有助于畸形波的发生。  相似文献   

7.
《Coastal Engineering》1999,37(1):1-36
Seasonally open tidal inlets usually occur in microtidal, wave-dominated coastal environments where strong seasonal variations of streamflow and wave climate are experienced. These inlets are closed to the ocean for a number of months every year due to the formation of sand bars across their entrances. The annual closure of these inlets inhibits ocean access for boats and could also cause deterioration of water quality in the estuary/lagoon connected to the inlet. As these estuaries/lagoons are commonly used as harbours or recreational facilities there is increased interest in keeping the inlets permanently open. A process-based numerical model capable of simulating inlet closure is invaluable in terms of identifying the natural processes governing inlet closure. As a further step, this type of model could also be used to determine the effect of any proposed engineering solutions to keep the inlet open on the adjacent beaches. A morphodynamic model capable of simulating the seasonal closure of inlets, which includes both longshore (LST) and cross-shore transport (CST) processes, was developed in this study. Application of the model to two idealised scenarios indicated that cross-shore processes govern inlet behaviour when LST rates were low. The Dean's criterion [Dean, R.G., 1973. Heuristic models of sand transport in the surf zone. Proc. Conf. on Eng. Dynamics in the Surf Zone, Sydney, pp. 208–214.] for on–offshore transport was employed to show that, for small offshore wave incidence angles, onshore transport aided inlet closure when the offshore wave steepness (Ho/Lo) was less than the critical wave steepness (Ho/Lo)crit, while offshore transport helped to keep the inlet open when (Ho/Lo) was greater than (Ho/Lo)crit. LST was found to be the dominant process leading to inlet closure when (Ho/Lo) was much larger than (Ho/Lo)crit or when the offshore wave incidence angle was large.  相似文献   

8.
Effective conservation requires knowledge of the effects of habitat on distribution and abundance of organisms. Although the structure of coral reef fish assemblages is strongly correlated with attributes of reef structure, data relating reef types to fish assemblages are scarce. In this study we describe the influence of gross habitat characteristics and seasonality on coral reef fish assemblages of fringing and patch reefs in Kenya. Results showed that total fish abundance was not significantly different between the reefs; however, the fringing reef had higher species diversity during both the northeast (42 spp.) and southeast (36 spp.) monsoon seasons when compared to the patch reef. The more fished species (e.g. Siganus sutor and Lethrinus mahsena) were more abundant on the patch reef in both seasons. Statistical analysis indicated common species between the reefs were more abundant on the fringing reef. Seasons affected abundance of the more vagile species (S. sutor), whereas the reef‐attached sky emperor, L. mahsena was affected more by reef type than by seasons. No significant interaction effects of habitat and seasons were found, indicating independence of habitat and environmental variability in affecting fish assemblages on the reefs. Smaller sized fish dominated the fringing reef more than the patch reef, whereas the skewness index (Sk) indicated a normal‐sized frequency distribution on the patch reef. Trophic structure of the fishes varied more within than between reefs, whereas fish assemblage structure was affected more by seasons on the fringing reef. These results suggest that conservation measures such as marine protected area (MPA) design and setting should consider effects of reef morphology and environmental variability on coral‐reef fish assemblage structure.  相似文献   

9.
Factors controlling the CO2 system parameters, including the partial pressure of CO2 (PCO2) in coral reef waters, were investigated in three mid-oceanic reefs of the Indo-Pacific region. Surface water PCO2 in the lagoons of Majuro Atoll and Palau barrier reef in the Pacific were 25 µatm and 48 µatm higher than those of the offshore waters, respectively, while South Male Atoll lagoon of the Maldives in the Indian Ocean exhibited relatively small difference in PCO2 compared to the offshore water. Observations from Majuro Atoll and Palau barrier reef are consistent with the view that calcium carbonate production predominates in coral reefs. On the other hand, results from South Male Atoll can be attributed to the thorough flushing of the lagoon, which is connected to the open ocean by numerous deep channels. The offshore-lagoon PCO2 difference depends on system-level net organic-to-inorganic carbon production ratio while reef topography, especially residence time of the lagoon, has a secondary effect on the magnitude of the offshore-lagoon difference. A potential for releasing CO2 might be more evident in an enclosed atoll where the reef water has a longer residence time. Oceanic atoll and barrier reef lagoons, which are in the terminal stage of evolutionary history of oceanic volcanic islands, have the potential to release CO2 to the atmosphere.  相似文献   

10.
It has been well observed that a reef crest (ridge) may be present at the reef edge, but so far very few published studies focusing on the effects of such reef-crest on the wave dynamics over fringing reefs. To understand the role of a reef-crest configuration in determining breaking-wave induced setup over the reef flat, a series of experiments were carried out in a wave flume using an idealized fringing reef model with a reef crest. Experimental results were reported for a trapezoidal reef crest with five reef-crest widths under a series of monochromatic waves. Also examined was the reef without a reef crest. Data analysis shows that larger energy dissipation associated with smaller surfzone width around the reef edge occurred with a wider reef crest. The maximum wave-induced setup on the reef flat in the presence of the reef crest was significantly larger than that without, and it also increased with increasing reef-crest width. The reef-crest submergence was found to be a primary parameter controlling the magnitude of wave setup on the reef flat provided that the reef crest was sufficient wide. An alternative semi-analytical 1DH model based on the balance of cross-shore momentum was proposed. The model was validated by present laboratory data as well as three existing 1DH laboratory studies. Comparing with other two representative semi-analytical models in the literature showed that the proposed model was capable of better reproducing the maximum wave-induced setup on the reef flat for a variety of reef profiles with/without a reef crest, different reef-crest water levels, as well as both monochromatic and spectral waves. The model parameter was physically related to the two characteristic lengths in the surf zone and its value was dependent on the fore-reef slope as well as the presence of a reef crest. The 1DH model was also satisfactorily applied to a fringing reef in field conditions where the effects of fore-reef friction and back-reef lagoon were not important.  相似文献   

11.
Boundary element method (BEM) is used to study wave pressure acting on a vertical quay, as well as the uplift forces on a submerged plate. The plate, placed in front of the quay, is bored with holes. The results are then compared with the case of a plate without any perforation.The results showed that: for q/h = 0.45, where q is the depth of submergence of the plate and h is water depth, wave pressure acting on the vertical quay is very similar for plates with or without borings. However, with q/h = 0.20, wave pressure on the quay is changed according to wave periods, widths of the plate, the distance of the plate away from the quay, as well as the ratio of the holes to the plates. Uplift forces exerted on the plate are indeed smaller for plates with borings than without, and decrease with increasing porous ratio. Furthermore, the uplift forces will be the same for the same porous ratios, regardless of these ratios being caused by a single or a double perforation.  相似文献   

12.
This study investigates the applicability of neural networks to predict whether impact wave force will act on the upright section of a composite breakwater. We employ a three-layered neural network whose units of input layer are h/L, H/h, d/h and BM/h (h: the total water depth; L: the wavelength; H: the wave height; d: the water depth above the mound; BM: the horizontal distance from the shoulder of mound to the caisson). Teach signals are 0.99 and 0.01 according to the cases of occurrence and absence of impact wave force, respectively. The neural network whose parameters are determined through self-learning can accurately predict whether impact wave force occurs.  相似文献   

13.
The concentrations of dissolved organic carbon and nitrogen (DOC and DON, respectively) were measured in Shiraho fringing reef (Japan), using a high-temperature catalytic-oxidation method. When the seawater on the reef flat (shallow lagoon) was isolated from the surrounding ocean due to the low tide, the concentrations of DOC and DON on the reef flat were 66–75 and 4.8–5.7 μmol l−1, respectively. The DOC and DON concentrations were higher than those of the adjacent outer ocean (57–58 and 3.8 μmol l−1, respectively), suggesting that the coral reef functioned as a net source of dissolved organic matter for the surrounding ocean. In order to investigate long-term bacterial decomposition of the reef-derived DOC (RF-DOC), the seawater samples collected on the reef flat and at the adjacent ocean were incubated in the dark for 1 year. Regression analysis using an exponential curve that considered two degradability pools (labile and refractory) fitted the mineralization of the RF-DOC very well (r 2 > 0.89). According to the regression analysis, the DOC produced on the reef flat was composed of the labile fraction of 63–94% (average 77%) and the refractory fraction of 6–37% (average 23%). It was concluded that some of the DOC that was produced in the coral reef ecosystem was exported to the surrounding ocean if the reef flat had a water residence time less than several months. The exported organic matter may support microbial communities in the ocean as an energy source.  相似文献   

14.
珊瑚礁破碎带附近波浪演化和波生流实验研究   总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2  
为了研究珊瑚岸礁破碎带附近波浪演化和波生流特性,通过水槽实验对规则波浪作用下珊瑚岸礁上沿礁分布的水位和流速进行了详细的测量。在典型卷破波条件下,测试了礁冠存在与不存在的两种情况。实验结果表明,多重波浪反射作用引起岸礁上形成不完全驻波,而破碎带附近的浅化作用则产生高次谐波,波浪破碎所耗散的波能主要来源于主频波,礁坪上透射波成分中二次谐波与主频波的能量相当;礁冠的存在引起破碎带宽度减小、礁坪上增水变大以及礁坪上各次谐波变小;礁冠不存在时,岸礁上波生流的沿礁分布与平直海岸相似,而礁冠的存在一定程度上阻碍了礁坪上水体向外海的回流。研究成果将丰富和发展珊瑚礁水动力学理论,并为岛礁工程的建设和维护提供一定的理论参考。  相似文献   

15.
An analytical solution is proposed to predict the wave set-up over permeable reef flat based on porous flow model and momentum conservation. A laboratory experiment is carried out to verify the analytical solution. Good agreement is obtained by comparing the analytical results and the experimental data. Both the analytical results and the experimental data show the wave setup increases with the increase of the incident wave height and the decrease of the submergence water depth. The influences of the porous properties of the coral reef on wave set-up are discussed based on the analytical solution and experiment results. The wave set-up on the reef flat is found to decrease with the increasing particle size of porous media layer. The increase of the porosity and the height of porous media layer can lead to significant reduction in the wave set-up on the reef flat.  相似文献   

16.
The south-west reef lagoon of New Caledonia is a semi-enclosed basin where, on first approximation, dominating sea state component corresponds to locally generated wind waves. This study aims to evaluate the ability of the wave model WAVEWATCH III to simulate wind wave distribution in this particular fetch-limited context, with a given parameterisation. In order to evaluate the consistency of the simulation results, wave parameters were measured in situ by a wave and tide recorder (WTR9 Aanderaa) and by an acoustic Doppler velocimeter (ADV Sontek). This study underlines specific constrains for the deployment of instruments to assess the characteristic parameters of low amplitude and high frequency wind-waves. Special care was taken in the comparison step as, on one hand the wave model did not simulate the propagation of low-frequency oceanic waves inside the lagoon, and on the other hand the measured spectra bear an intrinsic limitation for high frequencies. The approximation of a sea state dominated by wind waves is verified on the study site. The accuracy of the simulation results is discussed with regards to the wind forcing applied to the model.  相似文献   

17.
The effects of the reed,Phragmites australis (Trin.), growing in a brackish water lagoon, were studied in relation to the grain-size distribution of the substratum. At the salt marshes near the lagoon, the upper soils from the surface to a depth of 20 cm contained much silt-clay. These fine particles were found to be transferred from the river and fish ponds near the lagoon, and to be deposited when the tidal rhythm changed, that is, when the water current stopped. In addition, the fine particles, which were deposited on the bottom of the lagoon adjacent to the marshes, became resuspended as a result of wind-caused wave action, and then were transported and redeposited in the salt marshes at the flood tide. Since the reeds further reduced the water current caused by the waves and tide, the reeds were thought to promote redeposition of the resuspended matter. In other words, the reeds were considered to protect deposited and redeposited particles such as silt and clay from resuspension as a result of wave action by reducing the effects of waves and wind. These processes suggested that silt-clay will become abundant in the substratum of the salt marsh adjacent to the lagoon.  相似文献   

18.
Long ocean waves with periods of several minutes (surf-beats) were observed at a marine observation tower. We have analysed time series data of an envelope of incident swell, long period current velocity and surface elevation fluctuations. Current velocity was measued by an electromagnetic flow meter. Surf-beats amplitudeH (l) is shown to be proportional to 3/2 power of incident swell amplitudeH (s), and decreases with increase of depthh in proportional toh –1/2 such thatH (l) H (s) (H (s)/h)1/2. Frequency energy density functionP LL (f) of surface elevation had two dominant peaks whose frequencies were highly stable through the entire observational period. Cross-spectral analysis suggested that those peaks correspond to traveling edge waves caused by the excess momentum and mass flux in the surf zone. The forced long ocean waves predicted byLonguet-Higgins andStewart (1964) was ditected. Phase-shift and wave height of the wave with respect to those of incident swell envelope are shown to be in remarkable agreement with the predictions. However the forced long wave is only a minor component in the total energy of surf-beats. Current fields are shown to be largely composed of non-surface modes.  相似文献   

19.
This paper presents the results of a parametric study of irregular wave run-up over fringing reefs using the shock-capturing Boussinesq wave model Funwave-TVD to better understand the role of fringing reefs in the mitigation of wave-driven flooding. Laboratory experiments were newly performed with a typical fringing reef profile and typical hydrodynamic conditions to validate the model. Experimental data shows irregular wave run-ups are dominated by the low-frequency motions and confirms the run-up resonant phenomenon over the back-reef slope, which has been revealed in previous numerical studies. It is demonstrated that irregular wave evolution and run-up over fringing reefs are reasonably reproduced by the present model with a proper grid size. However, the infragravity run-up height and highest 2% run-up height over the back-reef slope are under-predicted due to the underestimation of the infragravity wave height over the reef flat. The validated model was then utilized to model irregular wave transformations and run-ups under different conditions. Through a series of numerical experiments, the effects of key hydrodynamic and reef geometry parameters, including the reef flat width, water depth over the reef flat, fore-reef slope angle and back-reef slope angle, on the irregular wave run-up were investigated. Variations of spectral components of irregular wave run-ups were examined to better understand the physical process underlying the effect of each parameter.  相似文献   

20.
《Coastal Engineering》2006,53(8):691-704
Water level and current measurements from two virtually enclosed South Pacific atolls, Manihiki and Rakahanga, support a new lagoon flushing mechanism which is driven by waves and modulated by the ocean tide for virtually enclosed atolls. This is evident because the lagoon water level remains above the ocean at all tidal phases (i.e., ruling out tidal flushing) and because the average lagoon water level rises significantly during periods with large waves. Hence, we develop a model by which the lagoons are flushed by waves pumping of ocean water into the lagoon and gravity draining water from the lagoon over the reef rim. That is, the waves on the exposed side push water into the lagoon during most of the tidal cycle while water leaves the lagoon on the protected side for most of the tidal cycle. This wave-driven through flow flushing is shown to be more efficient than alternating tidal flushing with respect to water renewal. Improved water quality should therefore be sought through enhancement of the natural wave pumping rather than by blasting deep channels which would change the system to an alternating tide-driven one.  相似文献   

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